Here is a list of all the postings Jouke van der Veen has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Emco Compact 5 Modifications|
Do you need additional gib screws for the longer cross-slide travel?
It could be that you do not need to driill the feedscrew hole completely through but only deeper (the original casted carriage has an extra “dead” space between feedscrew hole/space and backwall).
Thank you for your complete explication of the tailstock modification.
It looks so simple on the picture on top of this topic but it is not!
When you rectify the old tailstock body it would be nice, as Kiwi said, to follow all your progress, at least in this topic.
Kiwi, the thread you see in the carriage is for the hollow “top nut” to compress the adjustable anti-backlash nut behind it. The anti-backlash nut is locked against rotation by an “excentric” hollow pin in the small hole through the carriage. I think you can find this in the Emco C5 manual.
Edited By Jouke van der Veen on 28/07/2022 13:01:54
Good morning Gray,
Just another question.
What did you do with the base of the tail stock. Did you make it adjustable or is it a fixed correction of alignment with the head spindle?
There was already some doubt about what you would mean with width of the carriage.
I keep following you with all your nice improvements on the Emco C5. Most of them, however, are “out of my range” to introduce on my own C5.
I know somebody here in The Netherlands who bought the new carriage as well. I am not sure if he fitted it already to his C5. I will send him a link to this topic.
I know this solution for the thread wear-out in the original carriage without adjustable feedscrew nut.
Emco introduced a cast solution for it in 1985. For that solution you needed also a longer cross-slide and a longer spindle compared with the originals from before 1985. See the Emco Compact 5 manual.
My question is now: can you use the original shorter cross-slide and spindle for this solid carriage (because width is reduced by 15mm)?
|Thread: Feed screw lube|
I would like to ask attention for the influence of PTFE on the environment.
We know that micro plastic particles from many human processes are spread around in the environment and are finally taken up in animal and human bodies. It is a hot issue. So, should we still use PTFE as a lubricant?
I must admit: I also (still) use sometimes PTFE based lubricants, but feel concerned.
Are there lubricants free from micro plastics?
I think there are no simple solutions, perhaps bio degradable oils?
|Thread: Burnerd ec collets...dismantling|
Would it be possible to place some kind of hose clamp around the front diameter of the collet?
It should (just) not touch the spring ring so that the latter can be moved out of the groove all around.
Then remove the hose clamp and push ring further off.
But perhaps the clamping height is to short for this.
|Thread: A TOPICAL point, FANS.|
It is a well known issue to bring a (old) fan up to speed after a long winterstop.
I normally use a pencil for that, not a finger.
When it did not speed up after several trials, then it had to be dismantled and lubricated.
At the end it was so noisy that SWHTBO bought a new one. The old was is still standby for “emergency”.
Edited By Jouke van der Veen on 17/06/2022 16:49:06
|Thread: Emco Compact 5 - complete newbie|
Separate from the manual the Emco Compact Spare Parts List, including exploded views, is a very useful document.
You can find all the parts with their part numbers in it and dimensions of screws and bolts as well.
You will find it on the Internet.
There is a radial hole in the mill spindle, above the chuck. You place a long (dovel) pin in that hole and a second pin in one of the key holes in the chuck. By squeezing by hand the two pins together the chuck will come loose. The chuck has M14x1 RH thread. A manual for Emco Compact 5 will help you a lot. Mine is in German.
|Thread: Emco Compact 5 Modifications|
Thank you for your extensive information. I have to study this.
Concerning the engagement/dis-engagement mechanism there could be some misunderstanding.
I meant the design of the engagement of the saddle to the leadscrew in combination with the handwheel (not for the screwcutting at the left end of the leadscrew, which I have to study).
I have now a complete Emco C5 with an adjustsble cross feed nut and an extra bed with saddle + crossslide without adjustment. The latter is used as cross table for the Emco C5 milling column. I had some ideas to replace the non-adjustable nut but I am also (slowly) working on a motor driven cross slide. In this case a cross feed screw is fixated in the saddle and a stepper motor with a hollow shaft attached to the front of the cross slide is running on the screw. The hollow motor shaft should then contain an adjustable nut rotating on the steady cross feed screw. Alignment of the steady screw and cross slide/motor movement is a major issue. I hope this description is clear.
I am interested in improvement of my Emco C5 but I hesitate to make irreversible changes (in other words: damage) to original Emco parts.
Your design of the Emco C5 looks for me an interesting extension for the lathe.
What I not yet fully understand is the working of the engagement/dis-engagement mechanism.
Another (remaining) question is if the handwheel could be placed to the right hand side of the saddle so that the latter can move closer to the headstock.
|Thread: Ball bearing cups for bicycle hubs ?|
To be honest.
I could decide to replace the hubs by myself. But they should fit a bit to the Shimano Ultegra Group appearance. First option is to stay with the existing hubs. But at the end it may be necessary to replace them.
I cycle a racing bicycle fitted with Shimano Ultegra hubs, I think generation 6600 or 6700.
Now I am riding on my last set of front wheel bearing cones. Shimano does not sypply them anymore.
Wheelsmanufacturing used to supply replacement cones (CN-093?) but it looks like they stopped as well.
I am considering to regrind and polish worn cones. Possibly you have to be careful with going through the hardened surface, if they are not hardened completely through.
You can find people on the internet who do this kind of cone repair.
Another option would be to machine completely new cones from silversteel and harden them.
I would think radii of cone and cup are both significantly larger (factor 2?) than that of the balls in between.
What do you think?
Gallium has very interesting properties, so to read.
At Delft Technical University I had a colleague who studied the interesting ternary phase diagram of the alloy Gallium-Indium-Mercury. He wrote a PhD-thesis about it with a lot of thermodynamical calculations supported by experiments. More than 40 years ago.
I think gallium must be rather poisonous.
|Thread: Electric bike fault|
Above it was said that the bike ran only 600 miles and battery was replaced a few months ago.
So, battery should be ok and there is not much mechanical wear I expect.
Battery fully charged, computer and electrical contacts ok?
|Thread: Looking for a non-magnetic, strong, easily glued material|
Andrew, thank you. I am aware of that.
But I am fairly sure that such anisotropy (e.g. introduced by rolling) was not taken into account in the FEM calculations performed by topic starter.
But TS is wright: we have to much time available (for this subject).
Therefore we should follow Danny M2Z.
Edited By Jouke van der Veen on 30/04/2022 13:16:40
Why a FEM calculation?
I think magnetic permeability is an isotropic property. But I may be wrong, for “anisotropic” materials.
I think You made a FEM calculation to model your application but you used an isotropic value for magnetic permeability, just from literature. Perhaps we are chimpanzees, but not stupid. 😉
I would like to see a reference to software used to compare relative permeabilities of the different materials and as a result a list of these values. I assume it must have been rather a search on the Internet than a theoretical calculation.
Nice to read about a book of Frans de Waal about chimpanzee politics in this topic. Remember he is a Dutchman from origin! 😉
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