Here is a list of all the postings Bear G 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Should I have 3 phase supplied to my house?|
100% get 3 phase at home. Walk outside and see if there is a transformer on a pole (assuming the cable is above ground that is). The closer this is the better it is for you.
Having 3 phase opens up a world of cheap machines because people fear them. No, I'm not joking. I have seen people look at pillar drills, etc and reject them because they're 3 phase!
Some cautionary notes on static converters; they can kill motors very quickly if the settings are wrong and also cause the motor to run hotter. I was with a mate who was running his lathe off one of these; when he shut off the main motor the pitch of the suds motor changed because the entire current was now going straight into this. It would've destroyed it if he hadn't switched it off a bit quick.
Rotary converters are the best all round solution and the closest to a pure 3 phase output but unlike a static they out send out the demanded power output thus not causing any damage to secondary motors like suds pumps. You can also run your entire workshop off just one.
Inverters...having variable speed is great as long as you remember that the motor was designed to run at the rated speed with the fan providing the cooling. Run it slower and you lose some of this along with some of the torque. Run it too slow for a long time and you'll cook the motor.
|Thread: Cardibe inserts|
Are you absolutely sure they haven't sent you VNMG tips by mistake? They're the same shape but are designed to clamp with a pin on a cam operated by a grub screw; the hole is smaller on this tip type. The normal ones I use are VBMT which are often used for fine finishing.
|Thread: Warco GH600|
Reading your intentions you may be doing repitition work. I'd advise that you contact Warco and see if they do bed stops and multi position feed stops including for the cross slide. While not essential these make life far easier once you have them set up.
The other thing about the GH600 is that it appears to lack an emergency brake; if you are new to this it is very easy to make a mistake. Many topslides and toolposts have had arguments with the spinning chuck sometimes doing fatal damage to the machine varying from bending the headstock shafts, smashing feed gearboxes and topslides.
Strongly advise having an emergency brake!
|Thread: Rage Evolution sliding saws|
For metal cutting you want slow with coolant along with lots of teeth. Because this is intended for woodwork it runs far too fast.
My choice would be a horizontal bandsaw, have a look through the ad's in the magazine or click on some of their adverts on this forum.
P.S. A general note; be careful buying some of these mitre saws, some have non-standard blades which are not available as spares.
I respond in the way I've been conditioned to respond. So far in this thread one person has lodged a mild personal attack so was told how I felt. Two others have decided that it is perfectly OK to launch full on personal attacks something I have not done to them which I consider the definition of cyber bullying. I remember laying on the floor surrounded by a group of bullies using me as a football and what those on this thread did felt exactly like that to me.
I've been impolite to people who were the same to me.
I've investigated ALL ways this could be done and chosen the ONLY possible solution. This is NOT blinkered at all! I've spent an awful lot of hours looking at different ideas nearly all of which have been presented to me in this thread.
I've NOT ignored advice. I'm looking at ballscrews because of the far lower torque needed to start compared to other systems. I fully understand that when they get badly worn they can fail but the operating words there are badly worn.
Your frankly bonkers assumption that I would sue for getting bad advice and having an accident...WHERE DID THAT COME FROM???? You know NOTHING about me so who exactly are you to judge how I would respond or react???? If there is one thing that really angers me it's judgemental people.
I've spent my entire life being judged as stupid, retarded, a freak and a both physical and verbal punching bag. So the best advice is DON'T POST something that I might react badly to; I no longer bite my tongue and stay quiet and I am not afraid to say how I feel about something or someone. Yes, I would say it to your face.
And to Baz; I went to college and got an engineering qualification. My comment about toolmakers was something THEY SAID TO ME. I know an awful lot more about engineering than you think, been around machines since I was a child.
To others who are trying to help; 300kg is theoretical but I am not one to make something that breaks/fails. The traverser part is complete on a wooden frame the tiered section also wooden. I cannot weld but I can make lots of sawdust! Made an awful lot of swarf on this project too...
Hopper, That is interesting, thanks for the link. It is similar but mine has rise and fall and zero electronics. I have looked at inclines but there just is not the space there. I have previously built helix's but they have the disadvantage of huge drag limiting the length of train you can run (I'm aiming for scale length).
There is a product called a Nelevator but I'm trying to avoid electronics in what I'm building.
Edited By Bear G 1 on 30/05/2019 11:04:40
This is why there are to be forty eight supporting feet. This should distribute the weight safely especially when I get rid of old kitchen cupboards full of crap that havent been touched for twenty years.
Andrew, this is the solution to the problem! I've got a skylight cutting right through where I want to run point "fans". I tried building it like this but it was doomed to fail because the other end is a toilet/shower cramping what space there is meaning some roads were too short and some of the junctions were impracticable but worst there weren't enough roads.
What I'm building has a forty eight road capacity in far less space than anything traditional.
Please don't post in my threads again, your opinion is utterly worthless to me.
Jeff, the floor has sagged due to the weight of crap stacked on it for the last thirty years. The "eviction" will begin soon but what goes there instead must be lighter.
Edited By Bear G 1 on 29/05/2019 22:33:09
Unfortunately fixing the floor isn't an option.
To those presenting me with ideas; I'm afraid ALL these ideas have already been looked at and dismissed the four post lift idea was my first and failed on how the hell drive could get to them and having an unsupported ten foot span would be a huge problem. A scissor lift is the ONLY possible way of doing this.
Using two ballscrews to spread the load is doable.
Hi Paul & Mike,
It's a tiered model railway fiddle yard with traverser. I simply cannot fit the traditional fan of sidings in the space I have and get enough length/capacity and a traverser on its own would be even less.
The traverser is built with four levels two feet by ten sat on a frame 1200mm wide by ten feet. This will sit on the top frame of the scissor lift (920mm by 2500mm) the scissor itself will be made from 2M lengths of ally and the bottom frame is 12ft by 920mm in two halves.
Yes, I have worked out how to automate the switching and I have a mate to weld the scissor assembly when I get to that stage.
I know people will call me utterly mad for coming up with this concept and despite it's physical size it is a space saver; it holds over twice it's width and if the slope of the ceiling doesn't cause an issue more tiers might get added if the floor can take it hence the number of feet to spread the weight.
You are intentionally misunderstanding what I have written. THE FLOOR CANNOT TAKE THE WEIGHT.
I have to build this then ensure the beams don't deflect more than they are already. If then do I have to reduce the weight further. I have already started making the mounts for the forty eight m8 feet to spread the load out as much as possible.
Thanks to Stuart Smith for the link, ouch those are expensive!
Others have mentioned load calculations something I haven't got a clue how to do. My normal way is to over-engineer.
I know quite a few toolmakers and have learnt from them how to make the easy difficult!
Thanks to others who have brought up motorcycle lifts, way, way, too heavy! Hydraulic platforms are just too small. I've been researching for months and what I'm trying to build is the only way it can be done.
I have, weight. All other options for driving it are too heavy or ridiculously overpriced.
Thanks for the replies.
I've looked and looked and I cannot find any information on either load ratings or detailed specs. I've asked the only company with prices nearly on this planet and they never responded.
The Chinese sellers with just tell you anything to get the sale.
I'm hoping someone on here can tell me how to recognise a good one from a bad.
I was look at those listed as "SFU2005" on ebay but there seem to be so many variations and I need the strong one. I can't use hydraulics nor linear actuators for this project due to weight (circa 300kg capacity with a severe weight restriction). I did try looking around for a ready made lift but they were all either too small or too heavy.
C7 grade seem to be better?
Hi, looking for advice on ballscrews. I have to make a scissor lift but it has to be screw driven. Can anyone advise me what I should look for/at when buying one? I knopw there are two different types of nut but there seems to be no obvious way of telling which is the stronger?
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.