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Member postings for old mart

Here is a list of all the postings old mart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Pendulum enquiry
23/07/2019 19:45:01

Electromagnets switched by some sort of proximity indicator all set near to the pivot point.

Thread: Gear spec for threading dial
23/07/2019 19:40:29

I would try to get a plastic gear and thin it down to about 4mm, so the helix angle of the leadscrew which is acting as a worm gear has little affect.

Thread: How to cut metric threads on an imperial lathe and vice versa.
23/07/2019 19:33:46

I don't stop or reverse the lathe, I disengage the leadscrew nut at the end of the cut.

I forgot to mention that it is a good idea to make sure the thread dial marks line up with the datum line when the nut is engaged before doing any threading.

Thread: Face mill size
23/07/2019 15:10:05

With one of those 50mm shell mills, you can get away with removing 2 or even 3 of the tips and still use it. A 1kw motor is nearly 1 1/2 hp, which will cope with 80mm shell mills, you don't have to take huge cuts every time.

Edited By old mart on 23/07/2019 15:11:38

Thread: How to cut metric threads on an imperial lathe and vice versa.
23/07/2019 14:54:06

The Smart & Brown model A that I use is imperial, with a 6tpi leadscrew. Since getting a 125/127 mod1 gear on ebay and buying a number of mod1 gears to modify to fit the lathe, it can now produce metric threads from 0.75 to 3 pitch, which covers everything I would want to do at present.

Having made a new leadscrew nut, the lathe now has close to zero backlash between the leadscrew and saddle. That is fine, but there is still some lost motion between the spindle and the leadscrew. This means that I would not dare to keep the nut engaged and simply reverse the motor at the end of every cut.

I disengage the nut every time, the same as with imperial threads.

Impossible, it cannot be done, I hear you scream, hogwash, I say in reply.

A stop for the right hand side of the saddle is required if threading towards the chuck, or the left end if threading away. Set the stop a few thread pitches away from the start of the thread and back the saddle up to it at each pass. Choose a number on the threading dial and use it each time. The spindle and tool tip will synchronise every time.

I recommend using the same number on the threading dial every time as different makes of lathe have different numbers on their dials. The S & B that I use has 24 numbers, and I have a choice which other people would not have.

Thread: Gear spec for threading dial
23/07/2019 14:17:41

Acme thread angle is 29 degrees and trapezoidal is 30 degrees., I doubt if a threading dial gear would notice the difference.

Thread: Another "what is it lathe"
23/07/2019 14:14:02

It looks like a great demonstration model for teaching restoration to the younger club members.

Otherwise it could be a useful boat anchor.

Thread: ARC NCIH Part Off Blade
23/07/2019 13:59:11

I have parting blades in 26mm and 32mm size, from 1.6 to 5mm wide. I wouldn't use the wide ones for parting, only grooving as the lathe isn't really stiff enough for parting, especially with steel.

I ruined one end of my Kennametal 26mm by 1.6mm blade when the work moved in a three jaw chuck. A four jaw independent chuck is much more secure.

Remember to check your jibs for tightness, and always lock the saddle when parting.

I made a dedicated rear cut off block to hold 26 and 32 blades which bolts directly to the cross slide, with the blades inverted. I also added a rear saddle lock as the cutting forces are upwards. This is much stiffer than using a normal toolpost. 

I would never part off dry, soluble oil from a squirty bottle for steel, and WD40 or similar for aluminium. 

A great advantage of using the GTN inserts is that they are available from several sources, the best I know of is Korloy. I have some in 1.5, 2 and 3mm wide. 

Edited By old mart on 23/07/2019 14:01:45

Edited By old mart on 23/07/2019 14:09:56

Thread: How badly do I need a surface plate?
22/07/2019 14:32:18

In our fitting shop at work, we had a 2 foot square black granite 4" thick just sitting on a sheet of rubber directly on the bench. It was tested every year and given a grade A every time.

Thread: Dangerous 2" Scale BB1 Boiler
22/07/2019 14:24:50

The work hardening aspect is interesting. Copper work hardens by stretching, so how much smaller do you have to make the boiler for it to be the correct size after testing?

Thread: Buying a Lathe, as always the age old questions...
22/07/2019 14:06:13

The main thing wrong with Myfords are their mystical properties which lead to inflated prices.

Edited By old mart on 22/07/2019 14:06:39

Thread: How badly do I need a surface plate?
22/07/2019 14:03:02

You don't need anything too special for home workshop use, the 2 foot square cast iron table I bought has a brass label on it "not for inspection use", but the 0.0005" error it has is more than good enough for hobby use.

Thread: Face mill size
22/07/2019 13:52:41

TPAN is very old technology, the numerous adverts for 50mm shell mills using four APKT16 are a better bet. Inserts for steel and aluminium are available from the cheapest Chinese, to premium makes. The Chinese inserts are pretty good these days.

Here is one of many on ebay UK. 1630941344584

Thread: Lathe tooling
22/07/2019 13:41:20

Glanze indexable lathe tools are in the higher quality sector, I can recommend them.

Thread: Buying a Lathe, as always the age old questions...
22/07/2019 13:37:32

What do you think of the Warco at the centre? They do a range of smaller models, although I do not know if they ship to Ireland.

Thread: Dangerous 2" Scale BB1 Boiler
21/07/2019 18:57:44

My only experience of live steam, was as a teenager, getting hold of a Mamod oscillating, very basic, stationary engine. The first thing I had to do was replace the rubber seal in the filler/safety valve, the blow off seal, that is. There was no way of checking the actual pressure the valve would work at with my carefully cut 1/8" long section of bicycle tyre inflator hose. I bent up a length of copper tube and soldered it to the exhaust port and through a hole drilled in the dummy chimney.

I'm pretty sure the boiler was made of brass, I thought that de-zincification only occurred in a salt water environment, which is why bronze is used.

Thread: How badly do I need a surface plate?
21/07/2019 13:49:32

At the museum we now have two plates, the first one is a 12" square of float glass stuck onto a 14" square piece of chipboard with some 1/4 round beading glued round the edge. It does the job admirably , especially for small jobs.

The second is a 2 foot square surface table which I bought on ebay for £50, which I collected from about 30 miles away, it just fitted in the back of my Corsa. It is heavy, my left arm is still bad after four months.

I have no plans to retire the glass plate because it is still very useful. If anyone gets a glass plate then I recommend not sticking it down too permanently, as it can then be turned over when the first side gets scratched. I had the cross slide of the lathe on the glass sitting on two 123 blocks. When I lifted the slide off, one of the blocks stuck to it and then fell 6" onto the glass without breaking it. It took a chip out of the glass surface, the plus side of this is there can be no burrs unlike a cast iron surface would have.

Thread: Large 12" chuck - can anyone identify brand insignia TLS?
20/07/2019 20:54:50

Have you tried out the chuck on a lathe? Do the jaws fit well in the slots? I find it very difficult to believe that someone managed to assemble different manufacturers parts, especially as they don't seem to be in a worn condition.

Thread: Wiggler or edge finder?
20/07/2019 20:43:58

I bought a Vertex electronic edge finder years ago, it has a 20mm shank, and a 10mm spring loaded ball. The shank size will be too big for smaller machines, but if you can manage that size, it is recommended. They are not intended to be used with the machine running. Identical versions are available cheaply on ebay, see listing 263808616504.

Thread: Finally sort of know which lathe to buy, but?
19/07/2019 19:59:44

Myfords are ok if you don't mind paying extra for the name. Boxfords are a less expensive, heavier duty lathe.

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