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Member postings for old mart

Here is a list of all the postings old mart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Self extracting drawbar for mill
13/05/2022 17:10:12

Having the Tom Senior R8 without the pins has had certain benifits, one is that you can clean the internal tapered portion with one of the BT30 taper cleaning wipers. The only disadvantage is if using an R8 collet, it can sometimes turn and there is nothing to hold onto. I make sure if using one, that the 7/16" thread is clean and lubricated with moly grease. The head end of the collets could be drilled with a small solid carbide drill axially in 3 places to use a ring tool with pins to stop the collet from turning while being tightened or loosened.

Thread: Researching Godalming's Old (Goods) Railway Station
13/05/2022 15:56:07

I may be imagining it, but I seem to remember seeing sets of buffers visible from the bus in the early 60's.

Thread: Barograph 'stiction'
13/05/2022 15:52:54

Little vibrators were clamped on some aircraft instruments such as ASI's and alitmeters if the instrument panels did not have enough engine produced vibrations. With a slow moving instrument like a barograph, something timed to give a little tap every few minutes would be more suitable.

Thread: Self extracting drawbar for mill
13/05/2022 15:44:36

If there is a shortage of space for an extraction nut, it might be possible to shorten the ends or the MT3 tooling, provided there is at least 2 diameters of internal thread left afterwards. This could be done by hand on a bench grinder. Depending on how hard the spindle is, a little bit of boring could well also work. If the pressure face is rough, a cone shaped thick washer to give a flat thrust face might work.

Thread: Minimum depth of cut possible with carbide tooling on S7
13/05/2022 15:31:28

We find that the aluminium grade polished sharp inserts are very good for finishing cuts on steel. You can get away with spring cuts where a common blunt edged insert would just rub and leave a poor finish. The only way to be sure of a good finish with the harder material grades is to make your last cut deep enough to work properly. Most people would not want to chance a final deep cut and would be happier creeping up on the size, this is where the polished "GT" types come into their own. Try a box of the Chinese ones, their quality has improved greatly in recent years. The aluminium grades will put up with some interrupted cutting, I often bore soft jaws with them. WNGT06 is a trigonic insert with 6 cutting edges and may be small enough to use in Myford size lathes in 12mm holders.

Thread: Researching Godalming's Old (Goods) Railway Station
12/05/2022 19:50:50

_igp2948.jpg_igp2947.jpgI have found evidence on Ordnance Survey maps. The modern Explorer 145 shows two roughly parallel unclassified roads running approximately N-S ending at a school near the roundabout on the A3100. The much older 1" to the mile OS 124 printed in 1920 actually shows a section of track in the same position.

_igp2945.jpg

12/05/2022 18:20:55

It was just north of the river Wey, about 1/3 mile from the present Farncombe station, a housing estate now.

Thread: Milling Table Flatness - What is acceptable
12/05/2022 18:17:30

Since the measurement with the DTI agrees with the bed being thicker at one end, you can be fairly certain that having a machine shop skim the minimum to clean up will solve that problem. It would be worth doing simply for peace of mind, and a milled surface is fine for a hobby mill bed.

Thread: Self extracting drawbar for mill
12/05/2022 18:05:07

I did this with the R8 conversion of the Tom Senior light vertical. R8 tapers were designed for mills with drawbars and it is easy to break the taper. The MT3 taper requires more force and I wonder if a bronze taper breaking nut would be the answer, assuming yours is steel. The one I made (shown in black in the drawing) is bronze. Also I used some moly grease when fitting the spindle.

I am thinking of doing away with the R8 location pin in the drill mill, and making that a captive drawbar also, an excuse to fit some SKF taper roller bearings and mill some spanner flats near the bottom end of the spindle.

Thread: Milling Table Flatness - What is acceptable
11/05/2022 19:59:27

As already mentioned, you need to measure the thickness of the bed at both ends to see if the error is there. If the thickness is the cause of the problem it would be worth visiting some small local machine shops and seeing whether they could put it right and how much it would cost. Make a drawing to show them. I would be happy with a milled surface, we had to hand rub our bed because I had no choice but to mill in 4 stages because of the size relative between the two mills.

11/05/2022 17:23:11

Hi Peter, as long as you know the limitations of your machinery, and the errors, you will be able to produce very good results. Most work is a lot smaller than the bed, so knowing the sweet spot is the best war to proceed. The drill mill at the museum had an error in the bed slots, so using a pair of keyed vises would have had a Y axis error of 0.007" , 0.18mm over the length of the slot. I milled the entire length of the rear face of that slot in three stages, swinging the round column to the left and right taking zero off one end and the 0.007" off the other, and now the vises can be spaced anywhere as a pair with less than 0.001" error. I only checked the particular slot which suited the 100mm Bison vises best.

When the museum was left the Tom Senior light vertical mill in a legacy, it was not in working order and the top of the bed was not a pretty sight. I sat the bed on four 1-2-4 blocks on the drill mill and and milled off 1.5mm,  0.059", then we spent months rubbing it by hand upside down on the surface table. The surface table had sheets of wet and dry paper stuck on with double sided tape, we ended up using 120 grit paper. Over 90% of the damage has been removed and the table is flat within 0.001" 0.025mm. This could be done with your bed, but is a real challenge to do.

Knowing the error, you could simply shim up one end of a long workpiece if needed.

 

Edited By old mart on 11/05/2022 17:35:06

Edited By old mart on 11/05/2022 17:37:25

Thread: Easy power tailstock feed for your lathe
10/05/2022 15:18:42

When we were working on the museum's Smart & Brown model A apron there was no way to use the lathe to produce the bushes and spindles needed. I did the exact opposite, using the tailstock to push the saddle using an extra piece of metal bar in the four way toolpost. I backed off the tool and manually returned the saddle to the start position after each cut.

Thread: Colchester Triumph 2000 - Topslide Leadscrew Threadform
08/05/2022 16:45:57

I have just produced 4 leadscrew nuts for the museum's drill mill in 2.5 mm pitch. The threadform is trapezoidal for most metric pitches which has a 30 degree flank angle. The er/ir16 inserts that I used would not be suitable for a 5/8" or 16mm size, the leadscrews I made them for are around 22mm diameter, and 3/4" or 20 mm leadscrew diameter would be the minimum size that they can enter.

There are ready made nuts available from an ebay advertiser, the price varies accordingly to how sophisticated the nuts are, but are worth a look.

Edited By old mart on 08/05/2022 16:50:26

Thread: SENIOR Mill for someone?
06/05/2022 17:22:16

It would be a great buy for somebody, it has the name Centec on it so probably not Senior.

Thread: Smart &Brown L.tailstock lever
06/05/2022 17:16:19

At the bottom of the model A drawing is shown the head of a SHCS which is used to adjust the point of clamping, it screws into the L4 2063. Unfortunately, I would not want to take the museum's tailstock apart to measure the mechanism as there are a number of bits of shim steel inbetween the top and bottom castings to get the tailstock aligned with the headstock because of wear and it was not a job I want to repeat. We never change its alignment, with a taper turning attachment there is no need.

06/05/2022 14:22:13

_igp2924.jpg_igp2923.jpgI have a parts drawing of the model A tailstock, no dimensions unfortunately but it probably is similar to yours.

_igp2922.jpg

Thread: Smart & Brown model M bargain
05/05/2022 17:16:25

Probably the same size as the Model A, the front one is 2" bore and 2 3/4" long and the rear is 1 9/16" bore and 2 1/4" long. The Mk 1 and 1.5 run to 1430rpm and the Mk 2 is 1800rpm. The bronze bearings are made like er collets, the bore is parallel and the od is tapered. The headstock bores are tapered to match and nuts both sides of each bearing adjust the clearance.

Thread: Lever operated tailstock for Clarke CL430/500M
04/05/2022 20:36:12

I couldn't resist a NOS tailstock on ebay some time back, it is of Chinese origin, MT2 with a 3" stroke and with a suitable base section made, could fit the Smart & Brown model A at the museum. Seeing this thread, I can imagine it modified for lever operation for those delicate small drilling jobs.

Thread: Smart & Brown model M bargain
04/05/2022 20:27:03

For anyone looking for a small lathe, but not lightweight by any means, there is a Model M on ebay with lots of tooling.

**LINK**

Thread: uk acme thread suppler
29/04/2022 19:23:40

Stueee's link to Kingston engineering shows their data sheet 3, but unfortunately their easily available ACME 10 tpi is only 1/2" not the op's 3/4". The 3/4 x 8 ACME is available in rod and nuts, a possibility if the dial graduations could be changed. There are a great many more suppliers over in the USA, but unless you know somebody living there it can be difficult and expensive to ship things to the UK.

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