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Member postings for old mart

Here is a list of all the postings old mart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Drain cleaning brushes
30/05/2022 13:53:29

Seeing that photo of the chimney being swept reminded me of my father sweeping the chimney where we lived and he kept adding canes. The brush managed to bend down level with the gutter. He was very lucky to get the lot back down the flue without breaking the chimney pot.

I have a set of the small mixed sizes from ebay, the smallest is about 1/16" and the biggest is 1".

 The Smart & Brown model A has a 63/64", 25mm spindle bore. A brush would work best if it could be pulled right through from the right hand end and then cleaned before repeating.

Edited By old mart on 30/05/2022 13:55:23

Edited By old mart on 30/05/2022 13:57:57

Thread: Scaping bearings
30/05/2022 13:42:49

I would steer clear of white metal and use bronze if I was making bearings for a lathe. They would need provision for lubrication and if the top half has a hole for oil, then an oil groove in the bore would be easy to produce. You can produce a helical groove in the bores of both bearing shells with a ball end cutter in a Dremel or similar. Not a stone for fear of leaving abrasive particals. A groove about 1/16" wide and 1/32" deep would be more than adequate starting at the oil hole and stopping just before the outside edge. Some split bearing shells have the grooves in an "X" running from the oil hole and continuing at the split line to the other shell half. My choice would be leaded gunmetal, it makes nice nuts and probably good bearings as well. Perhaps somebody could have a better bronze alloy to recommend for bearing material.

Thread: chips from cast iron abrasive ?
29/05/2022 17:42:28

The swarf from ductile (SG) iron is not horrible black powder like ordinary cast iron, but shiny like steel chips. The other advantage of ductile is that it isn't brittle like ordinary stuff. You are lucky to have the choice.

Thread: Scaping bearings
28/05/2022 18:41:49

Ivy was right about starting an argument, wasn't he.

Thread: chips from cast iron abrasive ?
27/05/2022 21:22:54

If you can catch the dust with a vacuum cleaner or magnets while machining and cover up the parts if possible where the dust drops all the better. I hate cast iron, but SG or ductile cast iron is lovely stuff to machine if you can get any and the swarf is much like steel.

Edited By old mart on 27/05/2022 21:23:19

Thread: Scaping bearings
27/05/2022 21:18:16

You might be able to make shims out of feeler gauge blades, if you can find big enough sets to cut up. It used to be common for the thinnest blade to be 0.0015" thick, which means with some juggling, you could change thicknesses by 0.0005". The thinner ones would be best used sandwiched between thicker ones. Also the shim thickness each side of the cap could vary by up to 0.002" without harming anything.

Thread: What are the best quality needle files?
27/05/2022 21:05:26

My best ones are Vallorbe Swiss, and also I was able to get hold of a quantity of NOS Stubbs from a firm which had bought out the remaining stocks when Stubbs ceased manufacturing.

Thread: Scaping bearings
27/05/2022 21:00:23

Ivy, if your spindle is getting reground, the bearings could be produced at the same time with bores between 0.0005" and 0.001" bigger and then cut in half afterwards. They would have to be made with the same outside dimensions as the old ones. The better the finish in the bores the less running in they would need. Because the S & B model A bearings are adjustable, (the third type in my earlier post) they can be run until the headstock only gets warm after 20 minutes running at top speed. With shims you could gradually tighten the caps until the bearings got above warm and then go back to the earlier shim thickness. The proceedure will take a lot of time and patience but your lathe will be as new in the spindle department. I would recommend one of the bronze types for the bearings. If there is provision for oil grooves the bearings will last longer. Also there will need to be provision for the thrust taken if using a centre in the tailstock or drilling.

27/05/2022 18:47:05

I would fit the bearings and after making sure they were not tight, just run them for a short while with plenty of lubrication. Then dismantle and look for tight areas and scrape then lightly and repeat. The design varies a great deal, from clamped and shimmed bearing halves, tapered designs which can be adjusted by axial means and also parallel surfaces which have bushes made like er collets which can be closed down by axial adjustment. Each style needs slightly different approaches. There are certainly no traces of scraping in the spindle and bushes of the Smart & Brown model A lathe. Any scraping like bedways get would be detrimental to a rotating bearing, only the rings of tighter contact require attention.

Thread: Milk container top colours
26/05/2022 19:07:52

As for capacity, some shops sell the plastic milk containers in multiples of pints and some in litres. The imperial ones are bigger.

Thread: My mobile has "gained" an extra synbol
25/05/2022 18:47:54

I still use my Nokia 1100, at least until 3G gets shut down next year, the phone is pre colour screens and if you look at the 1 key, there is the tape recorder symbol. The 2330 is likely to have the same keyboard layout. I currently have the symbol on my screen, and it will remain there until I press the 1 key and dial. Then the message will repeat and afterwards the options come up. Option 3 is to delete, the only way to get rid of it. I know exactly what the message is and still have to go through the proceedure to clear the screen.

Thread: Strange Miniature Bearing
24/05/2022 14:44:42

I recon that when you replace the shaft with one that has hardened ends everything will be hunky dory. The balls and outer race are hard already and just need washing and relubricating. I have seen lots of this type of bearing in aircraft instruments, they are very low friction.

Thread: Grease in oil lines
20/05/2022 21:17:06

We had that with the museum's lathe, some parts were dismantled and washed, but others were simply force lubricated with oil. Mike modified all of the common nipples by removing the springs and balls and produced a 90 degree internal chamfer so that an ordinary oil gun tip can fit well enough to not leak much when the oil is pumped in. There are about 7 nipples around the headstock and they now have plastic caps to keep them clean. The trouble is that the nipples are the same as grease ones and can fool some people.

Edited By old mart on 20/05/2022 21:18:33

Thread: Thermal condution paste - none adhesive
20/05/2022 21:06:09

I have used Arctic silver 5 for years, but there is some stiction when removing the heatsink, which is unavoidable.

Thread: Fix my (new) Lathe
20/05/2022 20:57:31

Depending on the wear, you might get down to 0.05" at the left end and still not be too tight at the far end. That is nothing to worry too much about. The Smart & Brown model A that I use at the museum has to have at least 0.6mm at the left end to have any chance of reaching the right end without jamming.

Thread: Self extracting drawbar for mill
15/05/2022 14:49:26

It would be helpful if you could tell us whick mill you have.

Another option which would require very careful measuring would be to put the drawbar in position and then screw the nut on and loctite it into position. You would have to clean the bore of the spindle first, degrease the drawbar and nut when ready to screw them together and put loctite on the male threads when the nut has about 25mm left to screw on. Then leave the drawbar resting on the bed for 24 hours before throughly cleaning the surplace loctite off. Then put moly grease on the top part of the nut and lower drawbar threads, push it up and install the upper nuts. If this did not work, a hacksaw would be needed and you would have to resort to using the original drawbar.

Many mill owners have modified the top end of the spindle to provide captive drawbars. If you started a new thread entitled " types of captive mill drawbars" there might be some very good suggestions.

Thread: Looking for a Sharpening Service for End Mills & Slot Drills please
14/05/2022 18:25:14

It would be worth contacting Drill Service (Horley), they have a website:


Thread: Self extracting drawbar for mill
14/05/2022 18:20:45

The nut is made from bronze, and the lower end of the drawbar has whatever threads are appropriate for the tooling. These threads extend as far as the nut needs to be screwed onto the drawbar. After degreasing the threads on both parts, I used Loctite 620 as a thread locker, even though it is intended as a sleeve and bearing fit. This is because it is very slow curing and the length of the nut can cause slight friction which makes most other grades such as 270 threadlocker harden before the nut is in its final position.

If there was enough size of cavity to fit a long nut with sufficient wall thickness, then top and bottom parts of the drawbar could be loctited into the nut. You mentioned boring the spindle, but that would involve much more dismantling than just making room for inserting the drawbar from the bottom.

The nut has to rotate with the drawbar, it is not glued into the spindle.

13/05/2022 22:32:27

With the Tom Senior light vertical it is just possible to lower the knee far enough to fit the drawbar from the bottom without swinging the head. It would be a problem if the drawbar couldn't be fitted that end of the spindle as that nut inside has to be loctited so it cannot slip when it is used for breaking the taper. Removing the bed might give enough clearance, or even the Y axis part. Otherwise the head would have to come off. It can be done if you are determined enough and sure that the mill can be reassembled ok. Another way would be to remove the quill if there is one.

Thread: Looking for a Sharpening Service for End Mills & Slot Drills please
13/05/2022 17:12:44

Drill Services of Horley in Surrey, near Gatwick may sharpen small batches.

Edited By old mart on 13/05/2022 17:13:09

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