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Member postings for old mart

Here is a list of all the postings old mart has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Smart and Brown Sabel
03/07/2020 22:00:53

I think you should ditch the milling attachment, you have a proper mill sitting next to the lathe.

Thread: Spare parts.
03/07/2020 21:28:55

I take it that you have googled Hoover washing machine spares and trawled the hits. I managed to find an old part for a TV from a firm like them.

Thread: Smart and Brown Sabel
03/07/2020 21:21:49

Nice to know that the bearings can be fine tuned. My comments on the general setting up still stand, its best to start very slightly slack, which was why I mentioned 0.001" movement, you should be able to get it a bit tighter than that before things start to heat up. The spindle should be easy to turn by hand using the chuck. I overdid the model A front bearing, it was getting hot after about 5 minutes. The bearings in that are bronze and tapered on the OD with nuts either side to adjust them. I havn't needed to touch them in the last couple of years. Now I know how, I can remove the spindle in ten minutes.

Edited By old mart on 03/07/2020 21:31:58

Thread: Downwards-Counting Cross-slide Dial?
03/07/2020 17:04:38

I'm glad I don't have a backward dial, I like to see directly the ammount of cut I'm taking. And I prefer to be reading the exact movement of the top slide.

Thread: Pulley removal help needed please!
03/07/2020 16:57:43

If it is the common type of mill drill, the top front pulley has a large nut on the top. This nut has a left hand thread and the pulley is set on a taper. I took the pulley off the museum's drill mill and it was difficult. We put a puller on it and then applied heat to the pulley, and some time later there was a bang and the taper broke. It was a waste of time removing the pulley, as the bearings it ran in were perfectly sound. Leaving the pulley in place did not prevent the quill from being removed together with the spindle.

Thread: Smart and Brown Sabel
03/07/2020 16:44:46

Sorry,I thought that the bearings were similar to the model A ones. Are yours in halves with shimmed caps holding them?

03/07/2020 14:05:13

When you fit the front and rear main bearings, there should be small pins to locate them and stop them from rotating. And to adjust them, the only way to be sure is with plenty of oil and run the machine at top speed to feel the temperature rise in the headstock casting where the bearings fit. You should start off so that there is about 0.001" movement when you lift each end in turn. Then very slowly tighten the bearings, and test the temperature. The temperature to aim for is just luke warm after 15-20 minutes running. Once the bearings have been adjusted, there should be no reason to touch them. The spindle can be removed without disturbing them. The museum's model A has been happy with semi synthetic 5W30 for years now, it gets oiled every day it is used.

03/07/2020 14:05:12

When you fit the front and rear main bearings, there should be small pins to locate them and stop them from rotating. And to adjust them, the only way to be sure is with plenty of oil and run the machine at top speed to feel the temperature rise in the headstock casting where the bearings fit. You should start off so that there is about 0.001" movement when you lift each end in turn. Then very slowly tighten the bearings, and test the temperature. The temperature to aim for is just luke warm after 15-20 minutes running. Once the bearings have been adjusted, there should be no reason to touch them. The spindle can be removed without disturbing them. The museum's model A has been happy with semi synthetic 5W30 for years now, it gets oiled every day it is used.

Thread: Inserted cross slide feed nuts
03/07/2020 13:50:08

I can't say what your howling error is, but hold fire on getting the thread in the nut any looser. The most used part of the leadscrew will be much looser on the nut, assuming that it can be screwed right on to find out.

Thread: Hello from West Sussex, looking for ID for my first lathe
02/07/2020 18:31:46

There are a couple of faceplates I just noticed on ebay, they might be the right size for your lathe. 303607680392

Thread: Stroboscopic effect
02/07/2020 14:26:09

Back on topic, my 6 foot flourescent tube in the ceiling of the garage failed the other day, most likely the starter because the ends of the tube were looking good. Nevertheless, I bought a LED replacement which also came with the proper starter (which just says fuse on it). It works ok and I thought I would see if the lathe chuck would strobe. The lathe is a little Warco 7 X 12 with two gears and variable speed to 2500rpm. I had the four jaw chuck on and despite trying all available speeds, I couldn't get it to strobe.

Thread: What to look out for on shank size when buying
02/07/2020 13:30:41

Have you measured the shanks?

Thread: Which Milling machine and what is its footprint?
02/07/2020 12:59:20

ARC provide the footprints of all their machines, try their site.

Thread: What a silly Vee block this one is!
02/07/2020 12:56:50

Now we will all be checking our vee blocks. We have at least a dozen at the museum, donated over the years, about 3 pairs and the rest singles. What matters is that a perfectly cylindrical workpiece is held parallel to the base of the vee.

The 2-4-6 blocks that I bought some time ago and assumed to be good turned out to be parallelograms and are awaiting a skim on a big surface grinder. It doesn't matter what size they are but they should match and have square sides.

Thread: 2mm endmill help
01/07/2020 15:20:12

6mm is a good size for solid carbide for a machine like that and can use the speed.

Thread: Restoration and modifications to a Tom Senior light vertical mill
01/07/2020 14:50:07

It is always better to prepare carefully than to regret what you did later. When I made the R8 conversion for the museum's light vertical, I spent ten times as much time setting everything up to be perfect and better than my normal work. There was no second chance to get things exactly right and to my great relief, the results were even better than expected.

You could move the work between cuts, if the length of cut is too long. Careful re aligning should work fine.

When we had only the drill mill at the museum, I found that the slot in the bed which was used by the vice keys was not very good when the vices were used as a pair spaced out. The X movement is 500mm, and the bed is about 120mm longer, so getting the slot running true to the ways was not easy. The head had to be swung at about 40 degrees either way to mill the entire edge of the slot. Now the slot is within 0.001" of true which is an improvement on the 0.007" before. Before any cutting, the entire length was mapped and because the worst error was positive, most of the cutting was only 0.001" deep to clean up.

30/06/2020 18:27:39

Thats a lot of overhanging weight straining the knee, is there any way you could use a weight and pulley to assist the balance?

Thread: Hello from deepest Somerset
30/06/2020 18:15:06

I went to Exeter on Friday, and returned to WSM via Barnstable, Ilfracombe and the A39, so I passed Minehead about 5pm. I have a diesel car with a dpf, so a decent drive occasionally is good for it.

Thread: Boxford bud lathe headstock lubrication
30/06/2020 14:37:36

Have you found the Lathes UK site?

**LINK**

Thread: Exploding Grinding Wheel
30/06/2020 14:34:29

I bought a bench grinder last year from Lidl, the type with one end geared down to about 120rpm with a large wet wheel for wood chisels and plane blades. That is too slow to be dangerous except for trapping fingers. The full speed wheel at the other end was removed and binned and a mandrel for a 100mm electroplated diamond wheel. This is made from aluminium and cannot shatter. The grinder has been mounted on an aluminium base with an adjustable rest for the diamond. These diamonds can be used for HSS, but as steel will cause chemical decomposition of the diamond, the life will be reduced. For limited home use, it probably wouldn't matter much.

For grinding wet, the rule always to be observed is that you must turn off the coolant before the wheel. This ensures the wheel is pretty much dry before it stops turning. If the wheel is stopped while wet, the coolant will end up at the bottom of the wheel as it slowly drains away, and the wheel will be very out of balance when starting up.

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