Here is a list of all the postings Lainchy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: WM180/DB7 mini lathe to cut 32TPI|
It would be way quicker to use a die, yep, BUT, this is for gland nuts. I want it to be a really good fit in the steam chest, otherwise, it'll undo itself over time.... according to the articles.
Fixed gear on headstock Spindle is 40
Selection of available.... 20,30,33,35,40,42,50,52,60,75 and 2x 80
I did some calcs... but I was down to manually doing each one, and I did get to one combination, but there's no way I could have got the gears to mesh, being too far out.
I have a Chester DB7 and mid Juliet II build. I'm looking at single point cutting the gland nuts... 32tpi. Only issue is, the lathe doesn't list it!
I'm looking for a final ratio of 0.375 on the 12tpi leadscrew, but looking at the online threading calculators... they seem to be for different change gear setups.
I got some details on this forum of a 26tpi thread setup, but my head hurts now.
Has anyone set up 32 TPI on one of these mini lathes?
|Thread: Juliet no 2|
Looks superb Tony! Just building one of these too... but all work has stopped currently... while waiting to bore the cylinders. Great to see something that I'm working on in it's finished state.
|Thread: Why is this guys mini lathe parting off so well?|
I personally use an arc 3/32 parting blade and it's fine on my Chester DB7....as long as it's sharp, and set at the correct height. I tried with 1/16, and it was too flexible - it wondered off easily, even on brass.
|Thread: Steel stock for newbie ???|
I'm a relative neewbie Ian, but have made a start on Juliet II.
I bought my small lathe last year, about this time and I made a big mistake buying from a local steel stockholder.
What I tend to do now, is buy from Kennions... usually in 1ft sections. I would suggest, as many others will follow no doubt, but I would suggest some EN1 leaded, in 1", 1/2" and 1/4", and some flat bar, maybe 3/32, 1/8, 1/4 etc. Try a piece of EN8 too (about £1.60 per foot? maybe), which is of course harder than the leaded en1. The flat bar will likely be EN3.
£20 will buy you a nice selection. Their prices are very reasonable. I found that buying off eBay was a bit of a mine field too, and everything was plus postage. Kennions prices are very reasonable, and P&P can be done in one go.
Edited By Lainchy on 10/09/2020 20:53:05
|Thread: Opions sought on using the USB Photo Stick for photo storage|
Definitely a RAID task that... and ideally for that, you need a RAID card or support.
Also, yes, it will get your system back up quick, but really you're replicating all the OS too, and it's faults, if any should exist.
I always recommend backing up your data only, possibly with Microsoft Sync toy if on windows, and restoring the OS via fresh install. Keep copies of your software though!
|Thread: Silly issue with HBM parting blade|
I'd say try it with the blade the other way for sure. I have another type of parting blade holder though, and both 1/16th and 3/32nd blades. The 1/16th blade always leaves a convex end to the chucked stock. The 3/32nd is much better.
|Thread: What filament material do you use on your 3D printer?|
+1 for the Sunlu PLA+
I print at 215 deg, and 55 deg bed. Great stuff it really is.
|Thread: Useful Tapping Drill feature|
Just checked mine and it's a metric edition... copyright 2027??? eh? No ME sizes though.
|Thread: Homemade cutting fluid|
...noooo, that's Angel's "share" Personally, I won't share mine though
|Thread: Off cuts ?|
Just spotted this on Kennions site...
Looks very reasonable
|Thread: Assembling laser cut cabs|
Thanks Phil. Sounds like fun ! I believe the sheets will be 0.9mm half hard cz108. Juliet calls for 16 or 20g sheet, I think the 0.9 is 20G. Hmmmmm. I beginning to think hearth and some weight... and letting it warm gently. AND, plenty of test pieces
Cheers Brian. I doubt I'll be doing any welding on the cabs of my little 3.5 Juliet
So, the suggestion of brass angle? and soft solder? I will need the rivets of course as Neil has stated above. Heating with a torch? Will electrical solder do the job or am I using plumbers type and a separate flux... bearing in mind that this is a small cab.
So, You riveted the panels together, then did you soft solder?
Apparently, the Model Engineers Laser panels have tabs to aid the assembly. Not got mine yet, but does this mean that they should be soldered while being butted together? This is a whole new world to me as a beginner, but I'm trying to do as much research as I can.
I'm looking for info regarding the assembly of laser cut cabs and tanks... rivetting, soft soldering etc. Any hints? Any youtube clips etc?
I 'm looking for the best way of doing it as we have a RobRoy that will need doing soon, and indeed... eventually, my Juliet build.
I've had a look with a search, but can't find the right search string!
|Thread: Are there any published Torque settings for BA|
I just nipped them up with a small spanner Mike, don't go barmy though.
|Thread: A polite question - from a beginner :) Drilling a NONE wandering hole|
NDIY, Yep, seen it this morning, and very impressive! He did start it with a centre drill (but lets not go there)
Using centre drill, reamer, boring bar, and of course the drill. Very very accurate.
|Thread: Convex buffer face|
I love this forum for tips! Found this under a search. I have to do the same on my Juliet, albeit that it doesn't quote a radius. Looking forward to having a go though now
|Thread: Stuart S50 (Want to cry)|
That's good to hear Michael. I too had issues with the cylinder, but as you say.. Stuarts are pretty good. I wasn't happy with my machining on the 2nd, so ordered a third. All finished now and it looks great.
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