Here is a list of all the postings Lainchy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chester DB7 speed control board? NVR switch doesn't lock|
Just in case anyone needs this... I've uploaded to the album. new switch on the way Martin
Martin, bang on! Somewhere along the line, I've got mixed up... what's thrown me off trail totally is the new switch is DUFF!
Wired a plug up, and a table lamp to the old switch.... it was occasionally latching as before, put the new one on... not even the slightest hint of a latch. Nothing. Metered the lathe out to make sure nothing was adrift, old switch back in, lathe turns on by holding the on side.
So, I'll get back in touch with whee I bought the switch from and get a replacement.
Blown fuse.... no idea. I've spent a couple of hours faffing in there tonight.. came to turn the fire on first thing, no fire, so not only had the fuse gone in the rear of the lathe, but the shed ring main MCB had tripped :D I just hadn't noticed in my disappointment.
Another day, a fresh pair of eyes.
Thanks SO much for the help.
duplicate post deleted
Edited By Lainchy on 21/01/2020 16:09:08
Always worth a double check, so thank you. I did just re-check the diagram on the side of the switch... It's a KJD 17B
The diagram on the side of the switch does show a connection between 14, and A1. If you do a quick google image search for the switch, you can see the diagram. (Although there are a few) I'm sure that 24 to A1 you give exactly as you say. Bear in mind also, that this did work and has gotten worse. My Live comes in on 23, and out on 24, N in on 13 and out on 14.
I have spoken to Chester also, and Mark over there sent me a diagram, but unfortunately, it's nothing like what I have and shows a 400v brushless motor (I think - 4 cores), BUT, he did say I could send it up... they'll collect for £35.
I'm absolutely convinced the interlocks are OK, but this evening I'm going to wire a light bulb up to the switch, and have a dabble. It's a shame I have nothing on it now though. Has the main board failed? I have no idea now. I'd like to see the chuck and gear case interlock on the A1 link, and the emergency stop switch on the Live feed. I'll see what I can find out tonight though. Annoyed, but I've made my beginner mistakes on this lathe, taking far deeper cuts than I should have, with chatter, and stalls.... so my thoughts are check all I can, then let Chester replace what they find. Take the hit on the cost. It's a great little lathe that owes me nothing
Hi Martin, this is definitely the way mine is wired... Live feed via all 3 interlocks, then to the switch. with any of the interlocks open, there is absolutely no power available, held or otherwise.Interesting then, because it sounds like they are wired differently, and if so... why? I know someone has been in the NVR before, as it's been fudged, so I wonder if they've done something else with the wiring. (it is all brown coloured though and heat shrunk, so maybe not) For some reason, the main quick blow fuse has gone...probably having all the wires out while testing, so that's the first bit now. I wonder if It's worth re-wiring while it's all out? I might drop Chester a mail to see if they have the wiring diagram.
Cheers for now
Many thanks chaps. I've just metered the Live line from the plug, to 23 on the NVR (via all the interlocks) and that gives me a good reading of 00.2 ohm. Operating each switch returns to the same value. Interesting that the NVR doesnt care whats passed it, so that rules out the board and filter. It's got to be either a dodgy NVR (and replacement) or iffy supply then.
Reverse switch shows 9 and 10 together as in, unswitched
...after the lathe has warmed up...by holding down the start. Picture below. Although the link to A1 on the switch meters ok... I'm going to remake those connections first I think.
Strange issue with my Chester DB7, in that the NVR switch wont lock down, but if held, the lathe runs perfectly. after it's warmed up a bit, the switch stays locked.
I thought originally that this'll be the NVR switch, so sourced another, yet the fault still exists. Coming from the NVR on the Chester, is a mains filer unit, then the control board - which is a BC2000-TB
Has anyone experienced this fault? Has anyone replaced the BC2000TB control board with a KBIC240? It's a little different but the same spec.
I'm going to try and ring Chester tomorrow, see what they say, but it's weird for sure.
|Thread: Last Night's Astro Image|
|Thread: What toolpost for Chester DB7|
Great stuff It's a cracking toolpost. Really pleased with mine also.
Yep, with the plate, everything is standard. The original tool post bolt goes into the box of bits for the lathe, and you use the one supplied with the new toolpost. The only thing I'd say, is that the flat holder for the parting blade, has the height adjuster right down, as in, the blade is almost as high as it will go, but so far, its been perfect. You need this blade holder...** Link ** if you're going that way. ARC's pricing on the holders is pretty good.
Sorry (Edit) Standard tool holders are fine. 250-001 - just the 007T and a 3/32nd blade if you go for the HSS blades. 1/16th is too thin I find.
Edited By Lainchy on 13/01/2020 16:01:13
Edited By Lainchy on 13/01/2020 16:02:58
Edited By Lainchy on 13/01/2020 13:39:35
That's exactly what I did with mine.... Square plate, 1/4 thick as I recall, 18mm hole in the centre. I want to screw it down to the compound, but not done that yet. It works well. Do avoid the slanted parting tool holder though unless you're prepared to mill off some of the bottom. The ordinary flat parting tool holder works well with a 3/32nd HSS blade.
|Thread: Small Enamel paints?|
Has anyone used HowesModels 15ml enamel paints?
I'm just collecting some paints to try, Phoenix only sell the colours that "may" be what I want, for £10 a tin (50ml) , But I can buy 3 tins from Howes... doesn't say if they're matt, or gloss etc.
Has anyone used them?
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
I had a play with some Beta 1 case hardening compound. Has anyone used it? I have a small crank pin to case harden, and the S50 Eccentric Sheave.
The crank pin I gave two blasts with MAPP gas, and shook the part in a metal tin of it. It definitely left a tough skin, but being a small part it cooled rapidly. I heated it again and quenched it in water.
It's the sheave that I want the case hardening on really, and I guess its not critical anyway, but nice to have a play.
|Thread: A question of colour...|
Many thanks for all the info chaps. I have learnt that the colour at Claymills is based upon an old Burton Corporation Maroon. I'm in no rush though... just initial digging currently.
Great info and thanks for the link Jason RE the Hit and Miss engine. I'll do some diggin with that also, see if I can find the info on the plan and build. (I'm still on my first engine, but getting to grips with both the lathe and the mill quickly)
Regards and happy new year all!
Looks great Jason! And your hit and miss engines, which I am tempted with. Is the zero hit and miss a kit?
|Thread: The Engineers Emporium - Red Wing hit and miss engine|
Do I feel a new build diary coming Andrew! I'll be watching another for sure, and strangely enough, I've been googling a nice hit and miss engine today, including the RedWing!
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