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Member postings for DC31k

Here is a list of all the postings DC31k has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Removing drill head assembly from column
09/04/2020 18:11:27
Posted by Swarf, Mostly! on 09/04/2020 15:42:07:

When I got my Tauco drill I anticipated that weight of the head and of the table might give handling problems. (The table on the Tauco doesn't have a lifting rack. )

Could you not use the quill of the machine itself to control the movement? Extend the quill until it touches the table or block placed thereon. Hold quill lever with hand. Release head pinch bolt. Lower head using quill lever. Same principle for table movement but you would have to (temporarily) fix the quill to the table (a bar with a hole in it and a pin through the Morse taper drift slot at the top).

This is how you take the top off a Bridgeport, using its own knee as the jacking device.

Thread: Eclipse 180 instrument vice
09/04/2020 18:04:28

There are some good pictures of an assembled one here:

https://pennyfarthingtools.co.uk/eclipse-180-instrument-vice/2018/12/04/

Does the clamp screw screw in and out reasonably freely? Can it be removed (with or without the pad)?

Can you put a socket over the end of the boss that holds the tail so it rests on both parts of the tail and gently hammer it to send the pad back enough to release the tail?

Thread: Removing drill head assembly from column
09/04/2020 10:28:40

As Nick says, you should just have to slacken the bolts and it will slide off.

Pictures at http://www.lathes.co.uk/boxford-drills/ if anyone else wants to see one. Looks like the lever on the right side is for the tray under the head and the bolt on the left side may be for the column clamp.

Have a look at the general condition of the column first. Take a green scouring pad and some WD40 and clean the column below the head until it looks good. Then drop the head down the column until all the part of the column that is obscured by the belt guard is visible. Clean that part. This should make it slide off easier. They are a tight fit and accumulation of dirt over the years will hamper the removal process. It may be held with a split cotter or the casting may have a slit in it. You can drive a wedge into the slit if it is difficult to move but be very gentle. You are not trying to prise it apart but just resisting any tendency of the casting to spring together.

You have to assess how you will reassemble it before you disassemble it. You need sufficient headroom above the top of the column when it is sat on the bench for the body of the drill and your lifting apparatus. If you do attempt it this way, screw the base to the bench before you install the head. It is one less thing to be moving about on you.

I would be tempted to drop the table and head as low as they will go on the column, sit (screw) it on a sheet of plywood and crib up each side a little at a time until it is level with the bench and then slide it over. A bigger sheet of plywood means there is less tilt of the drill for a given increment in height.

Edited By DC31k on 09/04/2020 10:30:54

Thread: Percival Marshall gramophone message?
08/04/2020 18:14:34

Well done TomK.

Now wouldn't it be good if we had a search that actually worked on this forum?

Perhaps Neil could record that message and play it a few times to his bosses. It would be well worth the 2/6.

07/04/2020 15:49:32

https://www.gracesguide.co.uk/images/8/81/Im19351114MEE-PercivalM1.jpg

Send your two shillings and sixpence and you will receive your 10 inch record by return.

Thread: Boxford drill parts
06/04/2020 10:32:02

I think if you put 'boxford PD8' into Google, you might receive some enlightenment.

Alternatively, start here:

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=70616

Thread: Small skeletonised drill Press
06/04/2020 07:17:05

Possibly 'high speed' drill might help. The 'press' in your search term may be hindering you. Could you post a link to a picture of a typical one as that may help us to suggest more. When you say 'skeletonised', it makes me think of Bradson-style drills which may not be what you want.

Thread: All things Beaver Mill
05/04/2020 20:01:30
Posted by Mark Rand

Out of curiosity, where does the swivel pin live?

Bottom left side of head.

If you look at page 12 at:

https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=547FE296ECFD561F&id=547FE296ECFD561F%213842&parId=547FE296ECFD561F%21189&o=OneUp

the black dot just below the end of the spanner is the pin hole.

It is difficult to find Beaver pictures taken from this side of the machine.

(if link does not work, go to usinages forum, find the manuals section, download the Beaver brochure)

Edited By DC31k on 05/04/2020 20:01:49

Thread: clarkson autolock 3mt
05/04/2020 19:52:05

OK, found the literature.

See:

http://www.denfordata.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1057

Both documents well worth downloading.

Maximum size of cutter for large chuck depends on gauge line of taper - too small and you only get 1" or 25mm.

05/04/2020 17:26:36

I have always been under the impression that Clarkson made Autolock chucks in three sizes, small, medium and large.

I cannot remember the size range but someone might have a Clarkson brochure somewhere.

You should be able to find a medium in 3MT, but are unlikely to find a large. The medium ones are quite rare.

If you do find one, check it for runout as the medium ones can be too much cutter for the size of the shank. I had an R8 medium one that had suffered this. I gave it someone and he did manage to straighten it.

Thread: Gear Cutting - Pressure angle.
05/04/2020 13:07:34
Posted by Bazyle on 05/04/2020 11:20:55:

If one can make a gear with this method, however many facets it end up with, one must be able to make the 'inverse' an involute cutter by the same principle. But how?

There is some difficulty in your request. The method shown cuts the gaps between the teeth. The cutter you want is the shape of the gaps between the teeth. The bit you want to save is the bit that is ending up as swarf.

If you have a look at Fellows gear shapers, the cutters resemble a spur gear, so you might be able to make something like one of those, but the machine to drive that style of cutter is somewhat specialised.

Thread: Another mystery no. 100
05/04/2020 12:58:46
Posted by Ian Reid on 05/04/2020 12:14:04:

If anyone has the Instruction sheet Adrian mentions I would like a copy if it could be loaded onto this site.

Post number 7 here:

https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/gear-cutter.152949/

Thread: All things Beaver Mill
05/04/2020 09:50:48

Mike,

I have sent you a private message.

Alf,

There are two pins, one for 'swivel' and one for 'nod'.

They are both standard imperial taper pin specification of 1:48 on diameter.

Threads are unlikely to be Whitworth form given that the nut that fits on the pin is 9/16" A/F and the rest of the machine uses UNC/UNF fasteners.

Thread: Gear Cutting - Pressure angle.
04/04/2020 21:19:30
Posted by Steve Crow on 03/04/2020 17:32:51:

Making single point cutters of that size sounds tricky and I don't have access to a grinder. This seems a relatively simple way to make a cutter.

The other good thing about a generating method as opposed to a form cutting method is that you can profile shift the gears if necessary. Again, lots of info. at a digestible level on khkgears' site.

I do not know if you have or want CNC facilities, but if you do, a look at Gearotic might give you some options.

Thread: How can I use this motor economically?
04/04/2020 21:05:19

Deep inside the SIM card in my head, there is something that says the LinuxCNC people, before the days it was called LinuxCNC, were developing an open source servo motor driver.

Unfortunately, that is all I know.

Thread: Small drill bit in large drill press?
03/04/2020 08:07:12
Posted by Martin Kyte on 02/04/2020 22:30:41:

Easy enough to make in the lathe short stub of steel, carefully drill a suitable sized hole down the middle ensuring the drill is started exactly central. turn the out side at the same setting. Hold the 2mm drill in the tailstock to ensure alignment and loctite the two together.

But this assumes that he has not only a lathe but a means to hold the 2mm drill to make the hole in the sleeve.

And the problem we are trying to solve is how to hold a 2mm drill in the first place...

ArcEuroTrade are currently shut so suggestions to buy from there are rather pointless.

Drill chucks with straight shanks are surprisingly difficult to find, and even more so in small sizes. Many chucks, many straight shank arbors but the two together are thin on the ground.

The pin chuck is a good idea, the most important part of which is that it has a straight, short shank. There are many things (wrongly) described both as pin chucks or pin vices, a lot of which have long, knurled shanks.

Given the OP says he is new to the game, a little appreciation of his situation and links saying 'buy this, it will solve your problem' would be more helpful.

Thread: Cutting long tapers using homemade top/compound slide
02/04/2020 20:45:17

Sorry to follow up so soon, but it might be worth perusing this thread:

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=110851

Our very own Jason makes some very relevant points that will greatly assist your situation.

02/04/2020 20:35:04

How accurate does the taper need to be? A great deal of the complexity of a full-blown taper attachment is in the adjustment mechanism. If you do not need such fine control of the angle, a much simplified version is reasonably easy to make. It would be more like a copy turning attachment where the pattern is straight-edged.

I would use some of the cheap round rail and bearing/slider that you see on low end CNC machines. Glue it to the back of the bed, set the angle good enough, disconnect the cross-slide feedscrew and have at it. Put on the cut with the compound slide.

Even simpler is just to spring load the cross slide against a straight piece of flat bar set at the correct angle. You might be able to set up the straight bar such that it is clamped to the bed just above the cross slide and let the non-moving part of the compound ride along it.

Thread: Alexander/Deckel Mill
02/04/2020 20:20:37

Is this like an FP1?

http://modelengineeringnorge.weebly.com/deckel-fp1-riser.html

Thread: Gear Cutting - Pressure angle.
01/04/2020 19:58:27
Posted by AdrianR on 01/04/2020 18:00:03:

From what I can see on helicron this method creates an approximation to the involute curve by cutting a number of facets on each tooth.

The method is one well-recognised in industry and is by no means an approximation. It is a method of _generating_ gear teeth, the same as hobbing or gear shaping. Have a look for Sunderland gear planer. There are a few posts on this forum by John Stevenson that have discussed the method. There are numerous books available on the internet archive that discuss generation methods.

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