Here is a list of all the postings DC31k has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Deckel FP1 feed gears|
Post number 8 here:
gives the sizes for an Alexander, which is a Deckel clone and you are correct about the teeth total of 100.
Put 'fp1 feed gears site:www.practicalmachinist.com' (without the quotes) into Google and you might hit paydirt.
I have a hazy memory that there was someone on homeworkshop.org.uk this year cutting Deckel feed gear sets. The advert is gone but an 'information wanted' advert there might produce results.
If you do not have any joy here, head on over to Practical Machinist forum as they have a Deckel sub-forum with a lot of very knowledgeable people. I believe Franz Singer in Germany is a (commercial) source for these machines.
Do you have any gears at all? Anything shown in the online literature on the machine? If so, you could probably deduce the sizes of the missing ones from the relative feed ratios.
|Thread: Lead size for metric bolts.|
As our Sinopean friend says, there are really only two standard (read: easy to obtain and cheap) options if you want an integer number of millemetres per revolution. These would be M6 x 1 or M16 x 2.
If you can live with turning partial revolutions and using a graduated dial on the end of the spinny bit, M10 has a lead of 1.5mm, so you need 2/3 of a turn for 1mm and 5 2/3 turns for 8mm.
Dividing the dial into three is easy with just a pair of compasses and straight edge (a method known at the time when Mr Diogenenes was most active).
You could also use M10 and gear it down by a 2:3 ratio (look on youtube for Matthias Wandel and woodgears.ca for how to make wooden gears) so one turn of the "2" gear will give an integer millimetre revolution of the rod attached to the "3" gear.
Engineering problems are engineering problems, no matter what the material is.
|Thread: Taper Pins|
It is horses for courses. If you are doing one or two in a home workshop, the expense is not justified. If you are doing production, where speed is money and labour cost is a factor, the taper drill is useful.
|Thread: ML7 Genuine Gears vs Replacement|
What you say is 100% correct as the company under discussion is RDG not RGD.
But why is it necessary to out-petty your already petty post?
While your point is relevant in a strictly (barrack-room) lawyer sense, why should it trump the common-sense duck-rule (if it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck, let us call it a duck) that most of us apply in daily life?
Let's start with the 'lot(s) of wear/loose mesh'. A screwcutting gear train is simply a counter. As long as your gears have no teeth actually missing, the features you describe are not a problem. If you are expecting a change gear setup to mimic a Honda synchromesh gearbox, you will be disappointed.
The gear train is always loaded in the same direction when cutting and all the books tell you to go plenty past the start of the thread before engaging the halfnuts for a new cut so the backlash is taken out. You can adjust the mesh of the gears when setting up the banjo. A sheet of paper between the teeth can be used to set clearance (something a little more than standard 80gsm copier paper).
I think some of the smaller gears were steel, with the larger ones being cast iron.
RDG and Myford are in effect the same company so you will be paying for a name not getting anything of better quality.
I would make a list of the gears I need and then buy the cheapest ones you can find from whatever source. Lots of used Myford gears on eBay. Lots of other non-eBay used Myford sources. I believe Zyto ones also fit or can be made to fit. You may wish to place a wanted advert here or on homeworkshop.org.uk
|Thread: Thread cutting tools|
That may well be so, but your pedantry is not at all helpful to the originator of the question.
Can any of the gears above the one he has highlighted be changed for alternative sizes?
If not, then the term is apt as the mandrel gear is conventionally the first (variable) gear in the chain.
|Thread: Help needed in finding info and eng. drawings on this 2-2-2|
I think it might assist your search if you let us know the gauge of the chassis.
Then, for instance, pages such as or similar in intent to:
could be greatly insightful.
You could try '2-2-2 model locomotive' in Google and look at images.
Otherwise, try and find a list of model locomotive designers (LBSC, Martin Errors, etc.) and if any of them did a 2-2-2 design.
|Thread: Spot Facing With Slot Drill?|
As you mention 'drilling head', please be a little wary if carrying out this procedure in a drilling machine if the only depth control you have is your hand on the quill.
In this situation, the flat-bottomed cutting tool can chatter. Any slight flex of the drilling table also does not help. Sensible use of a rigid depth stop and a strut under the table can improve results dramatically. Experiment on a scrap piece of the same material to get a feel for the operation.
|Thread: Making a 6.0mm x 19.0mm Keyway Broach Guide?|
To slightly temper that remark, the standard tables assume a standard size of broach (body thickness, first tooth thickness, increment per tooth, number of teeth). With the multinational nature of tooling sources, this assumption may not be justified.
It is better to measure what you actually have, as the OP has done and make some common sense decisions based on that (the slot has to be deep enough to allow the broach body to pass through the uncut hole; the first cut of the first tooth should be of a similar depth to the cut between the first and second teeth; the last cut of the last tooth needs to be made with an easily-available total shim thickness). In a hobby setting, you are not seeking maximum metal removal rates and if you have to make an extra shim and push the broach through one extra time, it does not matter.
|Thread: Clarkson Autolock Mystery Tool|
It is a little difficult to answer your question as you are using terminolgy in a non-standard way.
The taper in the mill is 30 INT, also known as NMTB 30, ISO 30 and most generically as '30 taper'. It has nothing whatsoever to do with Clarkson, who were a manufacturer of tooling. Clarkson-made tooling is available in many different tapers.
Your description of using the Myford chuck sounds like you have a 30 taper (male) to 2 Morse taper (female) adaptor.
Your drill chuck itself will have a female Jacobs taper in it, known as a JT (possibly, if it is quite modern, it may have a B-series taper). So the Myford chuck you have has a 2 Morse to xx JT arbor poked in the back of it.
To mount a drill chuck into the 30 taper spindle, you need a 30 taper (male) to appropriate Jacobs taper (male) adaptor. It is not normal to swap drill chucks between arbors, so if you want to use a drill chuck in both the Myford and the mill, you need two chucks and two arbors.
As an example of the breed, have a look at:
|Thread: Quick setting nuts|
As with so many other recent questions here, Google is your friend. Put in 'quick setting nut' and see what it brings.
Start here, for example:
|Thread: Wet\dry vacuum hose|
Forgot to say that if you do buy a replacement, check the direction in which it is wound. The hose generally screws into the fittings each end and some hoses are wound left hand (thread) and some are wound right hand. Hence, for it to work with the existing connections, the hand has to be the same.
If you put the words 'smooth bore vacuum hose' into Google, you may find something that will meet your needs.
Are they swarm troopers? Today is, after all, Star Wars day.
Edited By DC31k on 04/05/2020 17:54:01
|Thread: What is this part|
|Thread: Hydraulic Copying Attachment - Micrometer Adjustment|
The attachments come in various sizes and the hydraulic requirements of each size may differ.
You may need to identify more fully what you have.
lathes.co.uk has the usual over-priced manuals available but they seem to start at the 300 series. Rondean has manuals also, and for the smaller series. Google also threw up dgrdesigns as a source, but their website appears to be unwell. There is a set of instructions for 300 series on eBay, item 352938828050.
Put 'Hepworth copier manual' into Google and look at images for more leads. It is also worth searching for 'Hepworth tracer manual' as an alternative term.
See also Andrew's thread here:
As a starter for 10, the manual for the 300-series (Chipmaster, Bantam) says the pump is 0.6 gallons per minute flow and the relief valve is factory set at 300 psi.
Edited By DC31k on 02/05/2020 08:38:46
|Thread: Clamping force calculation|
Since you show a pin joint at the base of the middle arm, there will be no clamping force as you have drawn a mechanism. The horizontal arm will try to move to the left due to the wedging action at the right of it and will result in the piston tilting in the cylinder and all pressure being lost.
To make this statically determinate, you need an encastre joint at the base of the middle leg and to specify the angle at the right hand end of the horizontal arm.
|Thread: Chuck key for Fish chuck ?|
There is a list of Jacobs keys and their dimensions at:
If the key is does not engage the teeth on the chuck sleeve, you can press the sleeve forward slightly to close up the gear mesh. Conversely, if you have a key where the mesh is too tight, you press the sleeve backwards a little.
|Thread: Tooling for a spline|
There is a British Standard for involute splines, BS3550 (pdf copy on Scribd), but it is 1963, so a bit late. However, if you can read the introduction/preamble to it, it may reference an earlier standard from which it was derived or consolidated.
|Thread: Strange WW1 Chuck - 1MT|
Have you seen the Vertex drill sharpener? It uses ER collets to hold the drills, but the sharp end pokes out of what is conventionally the back of the collet.
I think they do it this way so you can repeatably set the projection of the drill (push the point against a stop and tighten the collet nut). In conventional ER use, the tool can move backwards as the collet is tightened.
A holder copying this could be made to the same taper as the ER collet, of suitable minimum wall thickness, which has potential to give a good clearance.
Only gotcha I can see is the smaller collets in any series have a good recess in the back of them (on my ER20, 7-6 is the smallest with non-recessed bore).
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