Here is a list of all the postings DC31k has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chuck fitting|
Another couple of options:
Machine the tops off the cap heads a little. The hex recess will be shallower, but you are not tightening them to three grunts.
Investigate low head cap screws. They are a legitimate product, but more costly than standard capscrews.
If you look at YouTube videos of Cutting Edge Engineering Australia, he has a line boring machine. The heads of the cap heads holding it together face the thing being bored. They are in through holes, so he has made a screwdriver slot at the 'tail' end so the hex key is only needed for the last 1/4 turn, a (potentially power) screwdriver being used for the rest of the movement. It would mean converting the female threaded holes in the chuck to through holes, but they could be of a small diameter to suit the screwdriver.
Gluing the spacers in the counterbores means you need one spacer per counterbore per chuck. Gluing the spacer onto the securing nut means you need only one per fastener. If used on a nut and stud, it has the same benefit as the unthreaded section of stud suggested above.
|Thread: Harrison M300 siting|
In case you need it for dimensions, there is an M300 manual here:
With regard to removing the tailstock, a simple modification to the eccentric locking lever, so that it is retained by some other means than the grubscrew-in-a-groove (maybe drill and tap it on the side facing the user and use a countersunk bolt and washer) would allow vertical removal of the tailstock, removing the necessity to slide it off the end of the bed.
Just as food for thought, and especially as access will be needed infrequently, perhaps have a good look at the machine and see if the 'operating mode' of the door and/or cover can be changed to suit the location.
I can only speak for a Chipmaster, but making the door hinge pins removable on that, so that it does not need to swing open 90 degrees for access has freed up a lot of space.
|Thread: Universal thread cutting|
I am not convinced of your reasoning.
Five inches is exactly 127mm. There is no need for factors there. The definition is what it is and just happens to land on a number which is prime.
In an alternative universe, we might have a definition of the inch where 5 inches equals 126mm. There, 126t change gears might be rather more common. There, the definition just happens to land on a number which is even, and thus not prime.
Could you kindly expand a little on how prime-numbered gears (63t not being one of them) might be of any use to someone?
If we start at 20t and stop at 127t, the primes are:
23, 29, 31, 37, 41, 43, 47, 53, 59, 61, 67, 71, 73, 79, 83, 89, 97, 101, 103, 107, 109, 113, 127
127t is used not because it is prime, but because it is fundamental to the definition of the inch as 25.4mm.
Of all the others in the list above, which might one even consider searchng for?
I can think of only two, 23t, for NPT threads and 113t which might be useful for the 355/113 approximation of pi.
Yes. It has been done many times in the past.
John Stevenson and Brian Thompson's gear hobber was an early demonstration of the principle.
Look up 'electronic lead screw (ELS)'. This is an open source project.
On YouTube, the latest incarnation is by Clough42 (which has also been discussed on here in the past).
A VFD is not a servo.
For any indexing on a servo-driven (i.e. position-controlled) spindle, an integral brake is somewhat crucial.
|Thread: Hofmann universal dividing head|
If you do a site-specific search of this site on Google, there are a number of threads that pop up. Perhaps a personal message to a fellow owner would get you the measurement you require.
The magic Google text (without the quote marks) is:
|Thread: SIP 14" Professional Bandsaw|
In case it helps anyone to help him, it appears that the 14" SIP bandsaw with the above number is a WOOD cutting bandsaw.
For reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFjKMiu1P6c
Edit: it looks to be the same as the JET 14SFX model, for which there is a manual with wiring diagram here:
Reference pictures for comparison:
Edited By DC31k on 01/07/2021 19:24:16
|Thread: Is buying a custom ground tool my only option??|
SInce you mention 6mm dia. balls as a possibility, a standard RCMT06 insert would be a very cheap way to proceed.
|Thread: Organising M.E. index spreadsheet|
Your question starts at sub-section number 3.
|Thread: Lead Screw cover/infringements Chinese Lathe|
It would be wise, before you skim the faceplate, just to confirm that the spindle nose itself is OK.
Take the faceplate off and run your indicator over the camlock spindle (face, external and internal tapers).
Once you are sure that is correct, then move on. Are you aware that with a camlock spindle, it is important to poke the same pin into the same hole every time for every item you attach to that spindle? If there is not a line scribed on the spindle for this purpose, it is good to add one.
|Thread: Your assistance requested|
It is not unheard of for manufacturers to use the same diameter leadscrew on both their metric and imperial machines.
It makes manufacturing and stock-keeping a lot easier.
So it is possible to have 7/8" diameter with a 3mm pitch. Similarly, it is conceivable to have 22mm diameter with 8tpi cut on it.
The translation gear refers to the special gear or pair of gears that allow imperial threads to be cut on a metric machine or metric threads on an imperial machine.
Whichever are the native units of the machine, the geartrains for threads in those units will be simple (e.g. 20tpi on an 8tpi leadscrew needs something that simplifies to 5/2). For threads in the non-native units, the geartrains are more complicated and the numbers do not reduce to simple fractions.
Once you reassemble it, you can confirm the pitch of the leadscrew by measuring how much the carriage moves for say 16 revolutions of the leadscrew. It does not need sophisticated measuring equipment for this: a steel rule will distinguish between 48mm and 50.8mm and a chalk mark will index the rotation angle.
In case you did not find it, the actual manual for the machine is here:
It worries me a little that you say the dials are in both units. If the exploded diagram in the manual is correct, then one set of dial graduations will, at best, be very difficult to use.
Dual reading dials that are easily-usable in both sets of units are available (best known is Gamet dials on Colchesters) but require a few more parts than are shown in the manual.
Other aspects of the machine will provide strong clues as to whether it is native imperial or metric.
For instance, in what units are the dials (cross, top and tail) graduated?
What are the default thread pitches shown on the screwcutting chart?
Which language requires the translation gear to be used?
What does the leadscrew indicator look like?
Not directly an answer to your question, but please have a look at this thread:
It provides downloads to a manual and also some equivalent models sold with a different paint job.
|Thread: Split cotters|
A very appropriate phrase.
There is an article by Duplex in ME on these devices 29 December 1955 if anyone wishes to look further.
A different offset will produce a different angle on the cotter.
Consider the two extremes, where there is virtually no overlap between cotter and shaft and where the shaft and cotter overlap by nearly 50% of the cotter diameter (ignore, for the moment the clamping bolt).
In the first, the slope of the wedged sides will be very shallow. In the other, the slope of the wedged sides will be very steep.
With all tapers, there is a degree of slope below which they are self-holding and above which they are considered self-releasing.
So, I suspect that with a cotter, if there is too little overlap, it may not release when the clamping bolt is slackened.
|Thread: calling 254 Myford owners|
See this recent thread:
How cheap is cheap? 4MT to 2MT bush is £10.96; Myford spindle nose on 2MT is £16.50, both from RDG.
|Thread: Locking Bearing preload nut|
Jam nuts are difficult to use when setting preload. You always end up slightly rotating the one providing the preload, even though you are trying your hardest only to rotate the one doing the jamming.
A good engineering solution will separate providing the preload from providing the locking action.
The screw thread in question is a LH trapezoidal one, so the jam nut is unlikely to be found in the odds and ends bucket.
|Thread: calling 254 Myford owners|
Myford spindle nose adaptors with 2MT are available.
Open-ended 4MT to 2MT reducers are available. In a different context, they might be known as a spindle nose bush.
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