Here is a list of all the postings Roger King 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: HSS tool sharpening|
As a retired dentist, for close-up work I wear the surgical loupes I used to wear all day long. They cost enough, might as well get my money's worth. At least I don't have to keep the work area sterile. So much for retirement...
The tool rests on my current grinder are pretty substantial, I think they're OK.
I have a full range of grinders to hand with various discs installed for working on the large parts - 1mm cutter, grinding wheel, flat flap wheel, plastic paint-remover etc. but for small brackets and braces etc. an angle grinder's too big.
I think I'll try a pink/white aluminium oxide for fine and see where I go from there. Must get a diamond stone, too.
I'm a bit nervous about asking this question, as every search I've done on this and other forums has so many different answers I usually give up and turn the telly on...
What should I use to sharpen HSS tools in my Myford? I have a decent Bosch bench grinder which currently has two grey wheels, a fine and a coarse. I am using the lathe for car modification and restoration, so pretty much the only material I work is either steel or (rarely) aluminium. I still need the grinder to be able to grind and rough finish parts without changing wheels.
I've seen CBN wheels, but not sure how good they are for general use, and they are very expensive. Should I just be looking for a fine grey wheel, and a pink one for sharpening? If I get white, pink, green, blue or whatever can I still trim parts on those, or would that wreck them for tool sharpening?
I need to keep it simple....
|Thread: Tools for Super 7|
OK, I've googled 'tangential tool' and discovered that it's one that basically points upwards. What's the advantage of this over a horizontal tool?
Thanks to all for all the really helpful advice. I think for now I will stick with the HSS, as that's what I am familiar with on Dad's old ML10 (although by no means an experienced machinist!). Like everything it's practice, practice - and I will search out a good guide on sharpening. I have a couple of Myford-specific books, and a list of a few more to get.
I also need to do a bit of thinking around what metal I use and the above advice will help with that too.
Sorry to make you green, Ian!
Thanks - where's the best place to buy HSS bits?
By 'mild steel', I mean the stuff outlets like Metals4U sell as 'bright mild steel'. Probably not best quality, I'm guessing.
They've not changed:
Darren Boden - email@example.com
Had a very successful weekend - Daz and Pete came down from Nott'num and spent 4 hours going right through my newly-purchased Super 7, which was an education in itself. The first thing Daz did was wind the topslide out of the way and say, 'yep, it's one of mine' - recognizing his own scraping on the slide from 1980. He pronounced it a very nice example, which has had little use and needed nothing replacing apart from the spindle wick and the bed scraper felt. Even the tailstock height was within a thou.
So - now I'm ready to start using it more. Question one: what is the best type of cutting tool to use, and where's the best place to get them? I have a few of Dad's old HSS ones, and a box of things somebody sold him with small trapezoidal screw-in tips, which he didn't like at all, and I've not had much luck with, either.
Nearly all of my work is with mild steel. All suggestions welcome!
|Thread: Setting up for lathe coolant|
Thanks all - I particularly like John's idea of a couple of spacers to lift the 'drain' end of the lathe to bring it nearer level. I understand that level is a relative term for the lathe itself, not necessarily absolute level - but I think that while I'm doing this it makes sense to get things as level as I can, if only for reference purposes.
Now, how can I get hold of a couple of simple spacers to raise one end of the lathe? Er - oh yes....
My Super 7 is sitting on the standard Myford cabinet, which I'm fixing to the concrete floor with resin anchors. I'm thinking of adding a coolant system at some stage - what's best to do about drainage? I had considered maybe giving a slight slope to the cabinet by packing one end at the floor bolts, then adjusting the lathe for level by screwing the nuts out on the raising blocks to compensate. I've tried this and it does seem to leave ¼" or so of thread showing under the lathe mounts so not sure this is a good idea. Would it be best to de everything as level as I can get it and deal with the coolant later?
I found that yesterday! It's excellent and has been printed out and stored in the lathe cabinet.
Thanks all - hope the eye is better soon, Dave!
Thanks both for the helpful advice.
Dave, do you just hold the tip of the Reilang oiler and press on the ball in the nipples? I haven't tried it, but I'd have thought the spring would just displace the oil out sideways. Do you have a different fitting on the Reilang?
As a complete beginner, I'd welcome some advice on lubrication and protection of my newly-acquired Super 7B, which has powered crossfeed and a gearbox. I've searched for various threads on this, but thought I'd start a new one to be more specific. Sorry if this is very basic, but I like to get things right!
Am I right in thinking I should be applying Nuto H32 to all the nipples and oilers with lids? And VG68 (Febis?) to the slideways on the bed only?
With regard to how to apply these, I have a small capacity Reilang oil can which has a normal pointed nozzle. I could use this for the cup oilers, but obviously it won't work the spring-loaded ball in a nipple, so it may be better filled with the VG68 to dribble oil on the slideways. I have bought a secondhand (metal) Myford Wanner oil gun to use on the nipples - do I need to do anything else? Do folk generally wipe over the shiny parts to stop corrosion when not in use - 3in1, maybe?
|Thread: Super 7B manual, book?|
Thanks Bill, yes, I hadn't spotted the flashing envelope!
Does anyone have opinions on the coolant system? Is it worth looking for the Myford one (although I have the standard stand, not the industrial cabinet so no dedicated space for a tank) - or would a generic aftermarket be a good bet? Or not bother for relatively light use?
Wow, thanks for the super-quick response! And the excellent advice. I've downloaded the manual and ordered the book. Any other suggestions gratefully received, but I suspect these will keep me going for a while.
I'm considering adding a coolant system as the stand includes a nice deep tray - for relatively occasional use, is this worthwhile, or more of a hassle than a help?
I'm not a complete beginner, having done some work over the years on my dad's ML10 - but I have just bought a very nice Super 7B on a Myford stand and need to get to know it. Judging by the serial number, it is from around 1980 (SK150***) and has a powered cross feed and a gearbox.
I'd be very grateful for advice on reading material. Is there a Myford manual for this model, covering the more recent versions? Also, can anyone recommend a good book to help get to know it?
|Thread: Myford raising blocks|
That's great, thanks - plenty of ideas to copy here. I need to sort a tray to sit under the lathe, hopefully a standard ML7 one will work OK, then I can make up the risers.
Thanks for the continued advice, much appreciated. I can find the post by Peter Shaw, but whilst a solution is mentioned I can't see a description of it.
Thanks for your description Howard - it sounds from the detail as though your lathe is actually suspended on the threaded rod resting on the nuts - is that correct? Probably need a fairly substantial thread size for the weight.
Any possibility of sending a photo of these? Do you invert the channel, then bolt it down to the table and have separate bolts to fix the lathe to the blocks? How do you adjust for level - shims?
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