Here is a list of all the postings William Chitham has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Science Museum needs help identifying mystery objects|
The brass mallet like thing reminds me of the tools I have seen used for tamping sand into moulds for sand casting.
|Thread: Boxford aud|
Mine is pretty noisy too with the feed engaged, I reckon lot of it comes from the idler gear. The bearing is quite worn and it rattles and clanks when engaged. I'm considering how to fix the wear, maybe a bush (oilite?) or even ball or roller bearings. I have made a couple of new gears out of Delrin and it definitely runs quieter with those fitted. Thick grease can help, eg chain oil.
|Thread: Boxford model A gears|
There was a thread on this topic recently: **LINK**
|Thread: Is Iron / Steel endlessly recyclable ?|
Does it matter if you mix up ferrous and aluminium?
|Thread: Making a 25 Hole Plate For a Spin Indexer.|
I expect this is old hat but thought it might be of interest to some. I have a spin indexer capable of 1 degree increments but needed to cut a 50 tooth gear ie 7.2 degree increments. With a DRO newly installed on the mini mill I set out to make a new plate to enable 50 divisions. Rather than drill all 50 holes I decided to drill 25 in the plate and a separate set of index holes in the indexer body and whilst I was about it i thought I might as well make it good for 100 divisions as well. the hardest part was actually drilling the holes accurately, took three goes to get it right. The holes in the body came out a bit over sized as well, hence the new pin so a set of reamers are on the wish list. More photos in an album.
Edited By William Chitham on 15/07/2020 15:20:42
|Thread: Tufnol Tumbler Gear|
Of course you did the right thing. Making gears is fun.
|Thread: Leadscrew suppliers|
For some reason 2.5mm pitch screws are vanishingly rare which is a shame since that is what I need for a Boxford crosslide.
|Thread: Mill unexpectedly cutting crooked|
I'm an absolute beginner but it occurs to me that if the cutter isn't perfectly aligned with the spindle it would describe a cone which would create an undercut, for example if the cutter was bent. If it happens with different cutters then maybe there is some crud in the spindle nose that prevents the collet from seating properly or maybe even the spindle is bent?
|Thread: Pulley Sizes For An X2 Clone Conversion|
Thanks Neil, is your conversion single speed? Looks like a 4:1 reduction which equates to the low range on the standard machine as far as I can judge.
Edited By William Chitham on 25/06/2020 12:42:56
Ok, I'm convinced, poly v it is. Some further questions occur to me:
How many ribs? 4 seems common, but I have seen suggestions that 3 or even 2 would be adequate. Less ribs means less "stack" height which might be a good thing but more important seems to be the built in torque limiting safety factor - fewer ribs presumably slip sooner. The weak intermediate gear that we want rid of seems designed as a sacrificial component, primarily protecting the back gears buried behind the spindle which will be redundant anyway but is it realistic to hope that belt slip might reduce damage to cutters or workpiece perhaps in a misread decimal point sort of scenario? It might be interesting to make 4 rib pulleys and try running 4,3 & 2 rib belts to see whether slip could be provoked.
How necessary is the flange? Seems to me that it is only going to make speed change more awkward. If it is keeping the belt on when running then something must be seriously wrong with alignment.
Is there any reason to try to extend the speed range beyond the standard?
Thanks Clive, that all makes sense to me, I absolutely take the point about the small form tool. I'm actually in the process of making a bed clamp for a dial gauge which would serve the purpose for spacing.
Crikey, there should be a separate thread for most radical X2. Looks as if you've addressed the terrible fine feed as well, does the spur on top of the spindle pulley drive a powered feed?
Thanks, is that on a similar machine? Do you use the low speeds much?
Thanks Keith, staring me in the face of course. Spec looks fine, 20mm on the motor and 80 on the spindle gives me the 4:1 and the 2:1 for the high speed should be easy.
I am keen to make this myself because I'd rather invest time than money and I might learn something along the way.
Clive, I can see that a poly belt might be superior but all the conversions I've seen so far use a basic V. Not sure how machining 5 precisely spaced grooves is easier than one big one, could you expand on that?
Having broken my second intermediate gear I'm contemplating a belt drive conversion for my X2 clone. This looks to be a suitable belt: belt but I can't find any specs for pulleys, specifically I want to know the smallest practical. If I drive the spindle direct I reckon I need a reduction ratio of roughly 4:1 to match the existing low gear setting. The spindle pulley is limited to around 80mm pcd so the motor pulley would need to be 20mm pcd to achieve that - seems a bit tight but it is a small cogged belt. Any thoughts?
|Thread: Single point threading|
Three suggestions from a beginner:
Grind an HSS tool with a narrow nose that you can use in with the centre.
Turn the blank long enough to get the centre in to support it then cut to length after threading.
Also maybe skip the gutter or cut it with a radiussed tool to reduce the stress riser.
|Thread: Telescopic bore gauges.|
This Old Tony recently posted a video showing how he dismantled and fine tuned bore gauges to make them work smoothly: **LINK** . I suppose he is shortcutting the natural "break in " process that makes old tools feel nicer.
|Thread: Boxford change gears for screwcutting.|
Hi Terry, as a fellow metric Boxford user I absolutely agree with you, it is an excellent little program. I do have a copy, I have sent you a message with a link, contact me if it doesn't work
|Thread: New DTI "Glass"|
If anyone is interested I put some photos of the process in an album. In brief I turned a wooden male form; balanced a 1mm acrylic blank on top; heated with a hot air gun till floppy; pressed down over the form with a plywood "washer"; put the acrylic wrapped form back in the lathe and "parted off". It took a few attempts to learn to read the state of the hot acrylic and it was tricky to cut accurately to a diameter but I managed to get a good snug fit in the bezel eventually and only used one A4 sized piece of material.
I picked up this DTI at a jumble back in February. It was a bit sticky and the pointers were out of phase so I didn't pay much for it. I dismantled and reassembled it and works fine now but the plastic "glass" is yellowed and loose enough to pop out without much encouragement. Any thoughts about replacing the glass? I'm thinking maybe 1mm acrylic which seems readily available but I don't know if that is oil resistant.
|Thread: What is This?|
I think it is for getting Boy Scouts out of horses' hooves.
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