Here is a list of all the postings Henry Brown has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Metal former?|
Yep, that's about it Steve. I think it's coming my way as I've shown interest as it was going in the skip...
|Thread: Machine Accessories|
Probably the most useful and cost effective tools for the mill is one of these Roger!
|Thread: Metal former?|
I have been shown this metal former by a friend who is clearing out a garage of a late car enthusiast. Any ideas what it is and what it is worth please?
|Thread: Bending 1/8" Steel Plate|
Thanks for that Duncan, I've just got to the stage of bending a piece of 2mm plate into a W shape and was wondering how I was going to do it, sounds perfect.
|Thread: M-DRO Magnetic Tape / Linear Encoder|
LOL, I think its the M-DRO pricing Ian, I just checked and the mill order was placed in October not April. In fact I asked them at the Warwick show what their best price was which was £30 more than the quote they had given me!
I was very disappointed with a recent quote from M-DRO for my lathe after they supplied a 2-axis set for my mill. A staggering increase from £353 this time last year to £418 for the same thing with shorter magnetic scales.
|Thread: New storage space|
Good job done Plasma, filling up nicely...
|Thread: Using a cats cradle corectly|
Glad it wasn't only me that was wondering David! Used them years ago but I can't think what they were called. There was a recent thread on here about something similar...
|Thread: Fixing a ball to a govenor arm|
Thanks chaps! Jason has hit the nail on the head, because the ball sits in a cradle in the arm drilling/pinning/Loctite is pretty much out.
Jason, they were from an ebay seller - Hardened stainless steel grade AISI 420, hardened to Rockwell HrC52-55. I'm thinking it will cost more to get the suitable "solder" than its worth so may well go for the brass balls.
Andrew, it had crossed my mind to remake the arms and incorporate the weights in them or just make a steel rod and solder that on maybe. No rush, I'll ponder on it while I make some of the other parts.
I'm in the process of making an Economy hit and miss engine and have almost made the govenor assy, I now need to attach a 3/8" ball to an arm, there are two to do, they are the weights that centrifugially spin out.
I have ball bearings and tried to solder one to the arm but the solder won't take to the bearing even after I roughed the surface with a diamond burr so I'm wondering how others have done it. I have checked the other Economy engine builds that I know of and there is no mentioned there and I can't find a method by searching here or the web. As a last resort I see brass balls bearings are available but quite expensive, hence asking here first!
Thanks in anticipation, Henry.
|Thread: Die grinder or dremel - relieving cast iron|
Have a look at the Chinese Foredom flexible shaft grinders on ebay. I bought one to do some cylinder head work some time back and I've used it for all sorts of things since. Get one which will take a 6mm shank burr. Garyson burrs are very good but you may need a diamond burr to get through the skin.
|Thread: Should have stayed on the sofa today|
Ian, if I put my SX4 into tapping mode I can run the spindle backwards, just a thought as I only realised this after having the machine for nearly twelve months...
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
Knocked this grinder stand up from a bit of scrap 80 x 80 box, a couple of 150mm square end plates and some odds out of the scrap bin. Couple of coats of paint Monday and yesterday, bolted it down today and part filled the upright with dry sand, a trick I learnt from making some high end speakers, to stabalise everything.
The arm sticking out to the right is to support a Picador drill grinder, there is a tray for water just under the grinder.
|Thread: New hobby lathe for retired engineer?|
Fred, as another retired engineer I'd respectfully suggest that the 98% ok, will drive you nuts! I bought a Myford S7 and thought it would be great for what I wanted but soon found it was too small, especially the swing and spindle bore, so had to upgrade. I like playing about with car and very occasionally bike stuff so have a good idea where you are coming from, save a few quid extra and go for what you want plus another 2%!
|Thread: A Big Thank You to all Forum Members|
A big thank you from a relative newbie to the forum to both you and Jason. My hands on experience is rather out of date, the search function usually comes up with an answer but if not I've had some great advise from the forum members. Well done all!
|Thread: M-DRO 2-axis mill console functions|
Thanks Chris, printed off and now in the folder with the manual for future reference...
|Thread: VFD Motor combo for lathe|
I would suggest you speak to Peter at Inverter Drive Supermarket. I have no connection with the company, just a very satisfied customer.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
I have one of those vises Ian, after skimming the base to get it parallel with the faces the jaw moves on I'm well pleased with it.. The keys have to be all things to all mills, I was going to remake the keys to fit the slots on my SX4 but they discovered that they aren't all the same width so I haven't bothered. They give a good started for ten though, a parallel in the vise soon has it set up...
|Thread: Economy Engine from Engineers Emporium|
Time flies by! I've spent some part of most days since my last post making the smaller parts for my engine so I won't include the photos for these although I did take lots! More recently I've been having a go at the larger stuff...
I've used Loctite 638 to hold the four pieces of the crank together, I've also left the length of the ends longer because I would like to add a pulley on one side or the other to perhaps drive a water pump or something suitable. Just the part between the webs to cut out now.
I had to buy a larger angle plate to hold the base for the machining of the two main bearing supports and also had to make a bar to fit in my boring head to fly cut both inner faces of the supports so this took a little longer. This was due to the casting not being quite right here. Nick_G had to do the same, he built the outer faces up with JB Weld, however I spotfaced the outer faces and will make the outer flange of the main bearings wider to maintain the bearing width.
This was the start of some things coming together!
I fancied making the conrod next. The design is shown as steel but I thought I'd make mine from 6082 aluminium for two reasons, firstly it will be a somewhat lighter mass reciprocating if the thing ever runs and I quite like machining ali! In addition to the material change I also made the two studs fitted, I made the stud from silver steel and threaded each end M6, the holes in the conrod were drilled and tapped and reamed out to 7mm so the end cap is securely located. All the machining went well, I made a close fitting peg to fit in the little end to rotate around when machining its outer. Following help from JasonB I bit the bullet and angled the con rod by about 1 degree and both recesses worked out quite nicely. My next job will probably be the split big end bearing, a job I'm not really looking forward to!
|Thread: Telescopic bore gauges.|
It was me that raised this question in a thread a while ago, following an advert on here I was lucky enough to pick up a set of M&W telescopic bore gauges which have proved invaluable for doing the various holes that need an accurate sizing.
I asked about the Dashqua gauges at the time as they would have been an affordable way forward so it is good to see Barrie used a set and found them to be acceptable.
Edited to add that I thought it was my thread but looking back I think not! It was this one Ron: https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=141899.
Edited By Henry Brown on 30/04/2020 20:35:48
Edited By Henry Brown on 30/04/2020 20:37:23
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