Here is a list of all the postings Tim Hammond has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: You think you have trouble starting your car on a cold morning?|
We never liked using EasyStart on reluctant engines, because once you did, they became 'addicted' to it and wouldn't ever start without it. If I could gain access to the air intake fairly easily, my weapon of choice was a small blowtorch to start a sulky engine.
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
On the topic of very steep hills, does anyone remember the cartoonist in "The Motor Cycle", Bill Thacker, I think his name was? Anyway, one of his cartoons, which I still remember after over 50 years with a chuckle, depicts a motorcyclist with his bike parked beside a roadsign saying "Steep Hill, 1 in x", and the man himself on his hands and knees peering over the edge of what appears to be a precipice. A fine cartoonist.
|Thread: Drilling crankshaft hole|
+1 for Joe Pie. videos on YouTube. Every one very high quality and always well worth watching.
|Thread: Files - what do I need to know|
+1 for files from Arc Eurotrade. Regarding filing itself, I'm always mightily impressed by that shown on the Clickspring videos on YouTube.
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
My first bike, bought in 1961 when I was 16 years old, was a 1952 BSA C11 for which I paid £2. It had lain in someone's backyard for some time, I bought a new battery for 27/6d from the local shop, fitted it and the machine started up with no real bother. The start of 56 years of happy motorcycling until illness forced a stop.
|Thread: Electric vehicles|
NDIY - I apologise unreservedly to you, I misread the post, the quote came from ChrisH on the 22nd at 1953 hrs. I really am very sorry.
|Thread: The correct bolt for the job|
Excellent! Love it!
|Thread: Electric vehicles|
"seriously, why would you buy a car with a range of just 70 miles? Beyond me" asks ChrisH.
Well, I did, because it suits my purposes. I and my wife are retired and so do not have to travel to a place of work each day and return, and so our journeys are mostly within the boundaries of the borough in which we live. Most of our friends live about two miles from us, and the local supermarket is just five miles away, so our average weekly mileage rarely exceed 30. This would crucify the engine in a petrol/diesel car, and here I speak from experience - I worked with fire engines for 20 years, where the norm is demanding maximum performance from a cold engine when responding to emergency calls, hours spent idling in the drill yard, and pootling around locally on "risk visits". I've seen steps in the cylinder bores of Bedford engines that you'd need a step-ladder to get across and this at 20,000 miles. With my Leaf I don't have to buy hydrocarbon fuel with its exorbitant tax burden, just plug it into a 13A socket outlet every so often, the vehicle attracts 0% vehicle excise duty, a 3kW heater beneath the bonnet is available instantly without waiting for an engine to warm up, the lack of noise when travelling along is wonderful and the vehicle as a car is roomy, comfortable and well-built to Japanese standards. What's not to like?
Edited By Neil Wyatt on 23/11/2020 16:57:33
I have owned a Nissan LEAF for just over 12 months now, so I think I'm qualified to add my two pennorth to the discussion. The car was first registered in June 2014 and to date has covered 21 000 miles. The traction battery is down to 85% state of health due to normal degradation and charged to 100% will give a range of about 80 miles on a balmy summer's day, just pootling along A-roads. However, if it's winter and it's cold and sheeting rain, then in those circumstances I'd be lucky to get just 50 miles or so. For a start, no battery is as efficient at low temperatures as it is in summer temperatures, then I need headlights, screenwipers, heater/demister to see where I'm going and to stay comfortably warm. Also more energy is required to drive the tyres through water on the road than on a dry road. If I venture onto a motorway and cruise at 70 mile/hr or so, then the level of charge will drop like a stone. This is the experience of most EV drivers, so range IS an issue. OK, my battery only holds 24kWh, and more modern vehicles have much bigger batteries but the same rules apply. Offhand I can't think of any internal combustion engine vehicle where the range is almost halved in inclement weather. And speak not of charging away from home - it's a lottery. Some chargers are broken and haven't been repaired, and if you do find one it's usually tucked behind the back of a service station. Will the plug fit the car? CCS or ChaDeMo? Will the charger accept a contactless card for payment, or does it need a downloaded app? Will the app. respond in an area where the mobile signal is poor? and so on and so on. We still have some way to go yet.
Edited By Tim Hammond on 18/11/2020 19:42:09
|Thread: Whitworth v UNC|
Prior to the Fire & Rescue service I worked for a time for Hants & Dorset buses, they had a large fleet of Bristol buses, including RE single deckers. Lovely buses, especially the Gardner engine at the rear. I'm very fond of Gardners with all their idiosyncrasies. They also had a sprinkling of Leyland National buses, not our favourite vehicles, but at least they were toasty warm inside for the passengers.
"Hi ,What new vehicles were still using Whitworth in 1980 ?" asks Maurice Taylor.
I was employed by Hampshire Fire & Rescue as a vehicle fitter in the 1990's and one of the vehicles in the fleet was a new Water Carrier mounted on a Leyland 2-axle chassis. Can't remember the model type or its registration mark after all these years, but I distinctly remember that many of the threaded fasteners on the engine were Whitworth thread form. Not a problem really, as we had several Series III Land Rovers in the fleet and they were Whit. also. Trouble only came along when we had a new stores manager, and he in a fit of enthusiasm decided to tidy up the stores and despatched all the Whit/BSF fasteners to the skip.Replacements were very difficult to source.
|Thread: Calliper - Dial reading|
"Dial callipers don't have a battery to go flat on you when needed."
Absolutely! And will the electronics still be in good working order a score or more years down the line?
Stick with your original plan to purchase a dial caliper, SpeedyBuilder5! I bought a digital caliper 18 months or so ago and it's just so flimsy compared with an imperial digital caliper purchased 40+ years ago, which is still in v.g.c. A few weeks after purchase I had to return the instrument to the manufacturer for a warranty claim, as the plastic body developed a split, and I don't consider myself particularly heavy-handed with instruments. The replacement's held up OK to date, but overall the instrument just doesn't feel as substantial or as nice to use as its imperial predecessor.
Edited By Tim Hammond on 02/11/2020 20:31:48
|Thread: Broken Drive Belt|
I suspect strongly that this is a characteristic of cogged belts. The reason I say this is experience with Harley-Davidson motorcycles, which for some time have used this system to transmit power to the rear wheel. There are many reports among owners of belts failing for no apparent reason, usually under light-or no load conditions. It happened to me one afternoon some years ago, at the time I owned an H-D Sportster model, it had just 30,000 miles on the clock, I started it up after visiting a friend, selected first gear, let the clutch out to move off and found I had a motorbike with a gearbox full of neutrals. It had to return home on the back of a lorry. On examination the belt looked exactly like the one in the photograph. Prior to this I'd inspected the belt as per the instructions in the handbook and it appeared absolutely fine. There was considerable discussion on the various owners' fora that belts tightened to the manufacturer's recommended figure would fail prematurely, and to run them a lot slacker - mine was tensioned to the correct figure using the tool sold by H-D for this. Some owners racked up impressive mileages (100,000 miles+) before changing a still-intact belt, other belts failed almost after leaving the dealer's showroom. And who remembers the death rattle of a Ford Cortina engine (?Pinto ) when the camshaft drive belt failed?
|Thread: Digital readings|
One of the nicer jobs I had in a varied career was driving an articulated lorry, and I well remember a French driver measuring a load to go on the back of his wagon. How did he do it? By pacing out the length and width with one foot in front of the other - in other words in French feet...
Having watched many, many engineering videos on YouTube uploaded by American machinists like, for example, Joe Pie, Adam Booth or Keith Fenner, I've noticed that they almost always quote dimensions in thousandths of an inch, so 5/8" = 0.625 or 625 thousandths, so if they want to reduce something to, say, 1/2", they know they have to remove 125 thousandths. The clever bit is converting fractions to decimals; I have to consult a Zeus book to know that 29/64 is 0.453" whereas they just know it. I suppose working with these numbers all day every day they just commit them to memory. However I use the technique for Metric - !mm = 1,000 microns, so for example, if I need to reduce a diameter of 22mm to 21,3 mm, 700 microns needs to come off, 350 microns of radius which is equal to 14 graduations on the cross-slide dial. (one graduation = 0,025 mm, 25 microns). Works for me.
|Thread: Dressing a diamond wheel|
Sigh...I omitted the bearing on my dial gauge when I set up my diamond wheel and now have a ball end on the gauge with a perfectly machined polished flat.
|Thread: Temperature control when grinding HSS tool-blanks?|
I have always known type "A" as Huntingdon dressers and have used them several times on off-hand grinders at my place of work. As you would expect, quite vicious, quite scary and VERY messy, but they do work well. Nowadays at home I use a diamond dresser bought from Machine Mart mounted in a home-made jig to ensure a uniform surface on the wheel.
|Thread: Sieg sc3|
I've been following this thread with interest, and I'd like to take this opportunity to extend a great big "Thank You!" to Ketan Swali. His contributions have been comprehensive, knowledgeable and extremely helpful, and remember that this is a man who is running a successful business, and yet can find time out of a no doubt busy day to write his great pieces. Thank you, sir - I salute you!
|Thread: Cleaning metal for painting|
I endorse Fowlers Fury's remarks about using very hot or boiling water to remove oily dirt. It's why we used hot water pressure washers (so-called steam cleaners) to prepare commercial vehicles for annual test. The way the hot water shifted the accumulated oily grime was remarkable, especially when used with a detergent. Another example - when I worked for the MoD as a vehicle fitter, many parts from the stores were heavily protected with a thick, waxy goo (probably Cosmoline) which was very tenacious and took ages to remove in the parts washer using paraffin. Far easier to lob the smaller parts into a pan of boiling water on the stove in the messroom and boil until all the goo was removed. It rose to the surface of the water and could be skimmed off. The parts when removed from the water were still very hot, of course, and dried off almost at once.
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