Here is a list of all the postings bill ellis has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Spindle Lock|
As Sandgrouder says, there is a spindle lock to the left of the top cover (look just to the left of the handle for raising the cover and to the right of the primary belt housing (motor to layshaft)). Once the spindle is locked a strap wrench (oil filter remover) works well to loosen the chuck without damage.
|Thread: What do you use your lathe for?|
Usually repairing things that were originally plastic and are now metal (or sometimes a machinable plastic). I prefer repairing things to building stuff from scratch but that is about to change as I have decided to build a stationary engine from castings (not decided on specific model yet). Over the years I recon my lathe & mill will have saved thousands in fixing things rather than buying new ones (even the things that are allegedly non fixable).
I think the main thing a lathe does is give you a sense of satisfaction and that of being capable to not rely on availability of bits for repair.
|Thread: Snail Problems|
"Rehome them", is there an equivalent to Battersea Dogs Home for snails? Or does rehoming involve a tennis implement and a flick of the wrist to propel them to their new home? Not sure any of my close neighbours would be too willing to take in a bucket full of the things.
I go out after a rain shower with a salt shaker and give them slugs a sprinkling, makes a mess but is very satisfying, the birds then flock down and gobble them up, maybe the birds like seasoned food.
When I lived in surrey we had huge great orange/brown slugs, we also had a greyhound who was partial to them, not sure if they are good for dogs but he loved them.
I see nobody has suggested using a slug gun
|Thread: Milling machine belts|
Can't help with exact measurements as I don't have a VM-E, but I've always just measured the length of old belts and bought accordingly (use a bit of string and then measure the string rather than the belt directly). I had a mill drill that came with no belts at all, just used string round the appropriate pulleys to get lengths then wandered down to the local auto factors and bought a couple of their fan belts in the correct lengths. They were still going strong when I sold it a few years later.
|Thread: How to price up and sell a super 7 lathe|
I moved almost exactly the same kit with just an ordinary hatchback and roof bars. The cabinet went on the roof bars (not that heavy once separated from the lathe. ). I borrowed a small engine crane (500kg) to lift the lathe into the car, this then folded up and slid in alongside so I could unload once home. I recon 2 strong people could lift the lathe if you take off the tailstock & motor, I'd leave the saddle on but removal is an option to lighten further. Personally I'd let the buyer have the hassle and sell as pick up only.
Hi all, Many thanks for the nice comments.
The way cover is made from a sheet of rubber tread material (off cut from the well deck on my boat) and is fixed at the top by a T shaped bracket made from 3mm alloy plate. This plate is fixed using the existing bolt which acts as a stop for the Z axis upward travel. The bottom end is fixed using the existing rear saddle wiper cover. So no new drillings required to fit and it allows the Y axis to travel back as far as the vice allows. I'm happy with the amount of travel as I'm just in the process of fitting a 3 axis DRO and would have needed to limit rearward travel to stop the scale on the back of the table getting squashed.
I will use a wider piece of material to shield the Z axis scale allowing the reader head to mount on the knee and thus leaving clearance for the oil port. Most people seem to turn the scale with the head to the rear and use convoluted bracketry to move the head, or mount the scale on the knee, all to ensure that swarf does not enter the scale (i.e. have the gap facing to the rear). I think preventing swarf getting anywhere near the scale is a better option. I've experimented with fly cutters, face mills, drills and mills on steel, alloy, brass and cast and I'm certain I can stop unwanted bits getting where they are not wanted.
Clive, If you meant the table cover (which I'm sure you did ) I too have found that limitation. My plan is to build two piece covers which slide into each other a bit like the original covers between the saddle and the knee.Then I can shift the vice around a bit and keep the table T slots free from too much gunk. Probably over engineered but I'm still like a kid with a new toy at the moment.
|Thread: Ever have one of those days..?|
Working on the boat last week (woodwork) I could not find my pencil which I had just used. So I dug another out and continued. Driving home looked in the rear view mirror and noticed a pencil behind each ear. Not the first time I've done it either. Gets embarrassing when you walk into a restaurant for a meal sporting dual pencils.
|Thread: Parkson M1250 Beast|
Must be an optical illusion but the base looks like a banana.
The Bridgeport is now ready for work. Over the last month it has been stripped, painted and rebuilt. Just trammed the head and made table covers as most of my workholding is done in the vice. Must get hold of the missing label that goes on the front of the belt housing.
|Thread: Sump Plug|
I managed to get a very stuck square sump plug out with a large Stillson pipe wrench (about 30" long). On the big ones they have quite deep teeth to grip a pipe, set it across the diagonal (not on the flats) so that the corners of the plug fall between the teeth of the jaws. As you apply pressure they grip even tighter and the length gives loads of leverage. As others have said, apply some heat first to help break the accumulated crud.
|Thread: Removing a grub screw|
I've had luck in the past using a sliver of very thin feeler gauge down the side of the allen key. Put the sliver in first against one of the flats (or nearly flat if it is really rounded out) then tap the key in along side. It takes up enough room to allow the key some purchase. Good luck.
|Thread: Bridgeport vibes|
Many thanks both,
Just tried it with power downfeed and it is exactly the same so I don't think it is anything much worth worrying about, not making any noises just a very small vibration through the handle. I think the dog clutch may be a little worn as that is the only other part in the chain which could possibly contribute. Not a biggie but I may change them out at a later date. Looking at the prices I may give making them a go, I may put a bit of grease rather than oil on them and see if that changes anything.
It still uses the same drive belt when in back gear (when it is smooth) so I have ruled out belt issues. I will replace the belts as a precaution once I've used it a bit as I don't know the history of the ones on there.
Getting near completion on the step head Bridgeport but I have an interesting symptom and I wondered if anyone has any ideas.
Everything on the head works as it should, except when I use the quill feed lever to manually lower the quill. If the head is set in low range (back gear) and I manually move the quill down everything is silky smooth. If however I'm in high (straight drive via dog clutch) I get a slight vibration through the quill lever, is that normal? No obvious wear in the teeth on the bottom of the splined pulley hub or the bit it engages with. Obviously only when the motor is running, If I stop the motor it is smooth in Low & High.
|Thread: Using a propane cylinder for partable compressed air.|
If anyone is interested and is in the East Anglia region I have a BA (breathing app) cylinder which I used as an auxiliary storage device before I got a larger compressor, free to a good home. Good for 3000 psi but obviously out of certification. Fair bit heavier than an empty propane bottle.
|Thread: Bridgeport part size.|
All sorted, found an old bicycle pedal in my box of bits, just happened to have 3/16 ball bearings in it. I now have a lifetime supply
Thanks David, I thought it would either be 3/16 or 5/32. Off to the bike shop I go.
Hi all, a little help required, I'm in the process of rebuilding a Bridgeport and I need to find the size of a part.
In the handwheel clutch on the quill housing assembly is a screw with a spring under it which bears on a ball bearing which acts as a detent for the up/down quill feed direction. Someone had fitted a ball bearing which is too large to go fully in the recess and thus was not doing its detent job. The ball bearing is part no ST132 (1402) and I wondered if anyone knows off hand what is the correct size of ball so I may get one from a ball bearing supplier. I may resort to measuring the recess but if anyone knows I would be greatful for the info.
In case you wondered why I do not just order one from a bridgeport spares stockist this is the reason.
Part ST132 steel ball, cost 37p, delivery £7.95 (yes I could not believe it so I rang them up and queried it), VAT £1.67, grand total £9.99 for a single ball bearing, I don't think so.
|Thread: Hello all from sunny Suffolk|
Hi Paul, thanks for the offer, would have to be a Thursday or a Sunday where the weather looks like it will be awful. Sunday I'm usually out on my bike or doing grandfather duties.
|Thread: Bridgeport power feed|
Thanks all for your input, but I think I may have found a way to determine the correct rotation without knackering any internals (and I can't see any rotation markings on the box or motor anywhere). My idea is to put it all back together once its cleaned and oiled and set it back on the end of the table, but leave the motor off the gearbox. Then engage the traverse lever, I should be able to reach the pinion in the box with my finger and move it a little to see which way the table moves, if it moves in the correct direction I will know which way the worm on the end of the motor must turn. To be fair as I've got the box apart I can probably trace the gear motions to work it out that way but I fear that will make my head sting. Looking inside I'm not convinced that running the motor the wrong way would do anything other than make the table go in the wrong direction but I'd rather err on the side of caution as I doubt spares are obtainable if I did faff it up.
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