Here is a list of all the postings Diogenes has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Any geologists out there?|
|Thread: Lathe improvements?|
..that is cheap, BUT..
..yours is built with personally-selected components that have been hand-fitted to meet your own specifications for performance, durability, and accuracy that you know to be absolutely true, because you made it yourself.. ..you can't buy that for $700..
|Thread: Perfecto 3-1/2" x 16" lathe half nut lever operation|
Hi Charles, looking good.
Whilst it is apart, it might be worth checking for burrs along the edges of the pin slots, particularly the curved ones in the disc. As well as any obvious ones caused by damage, also check with a finger for any feeling of sharpness inside the track edges (overtightening of the disc in the past can sometimes cause burrs here).
In the ML (albeit the tracks are a slightly different shape), burrs along the lip of the track can give a rough action or even cause sticking, and it could be this which has caused someone to be rather rough with yours.
If any are present, lightly dressing them back with a small file gives a noticeably smoother action.
Happy to see it progressing,
pgk - seriously, for hedgerow nutting, I have great success with a middle-sized (9"-10" pair of water-pump pliers - whilst slightly too big for the back pocket, they do fit comfortably in a waxed cotton jacket, have a cut-out in the jaws, and the long handles give such control that the shell can be cracked without crushing the kernel, particularly once one gets a feel for the adjustment. I've never looked back!
|Thread: Perfecto 3-1/2" x 16" lathe half nut lever operation|
Just to reassure; because the half-nuts are balanced, i.e. the upper one is held up by the lower, if you will, the only out of balance part that gravity would have to overcome would be the weight of the small operating handle - friction in the gib alone is sufficient to overcome this, whilst still providing light operation..
I have just been out to check my memory of the ML4 apron in my slippers, and the omens are all good; the action is virtually identical - the handle is held in the up (disengaged) position by friction alone, derived from judicious adjustment of the gib.
Whilst I can't guarantee that mine hasn't been mutilated in some subtle way over the years, there are no detents of any kind, or evidence of there ever having been so, and it used to operate quite satisfactorily. The gibs are not over tight - the operation is light, but there is enough friction to hold the lever in the "up" position - perhaps because the dovetail contact area is quite generously proportioned, as I see is yours.
I'd use grease (rather than oil) as a lubricant during re-assembly, and carry out a final adjustment once it's all back together and hanging in it's proper place on the saddle.
If you'll pardon the question, what are your half-nuts made of? ..perhaps it's a trick of the light, but I'd hope it was some kind of bronze..
Good luck with the restoration.
|Thread: Unusual GPO hammer?|
The "curved pointy bit" looks very like the shape a tinsmith would use to persuade sheet-metal over a wire in order to create a rolled edge..
|Thread: Electronic water gauge|
..looks like there's a schematic on page 2 of that thread..
There's a thread on the "Paddleducks" forum, titled "Water level sensor", in which reference is made to Stan Bray's book "Model Marine Steam".. it's here.. ..some way down..
I searched "electronic water level sender model steam", so something along these lines might throw up more results..
|Thread: Manual for a Meddings M10 High Speed Drill|
Have you tried Meddings themselves?
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
Search "Oil Filter Cup Wrench" - which is just a large "proper" socket, designed to fit over the Hex that is on the end of the filter. Saves a ton of messing around, especially in a restricted space..
|Thread: Miitutoyo caliper error|
I have paper instructions here.. .."E" does indeed mean the scale needs cleaning - the instruction say to clean the scale, and if the "E" error message still remains, it is necessary to then remove and re-install the battery.
If still no go, I would try disassembly and cleaning the inside "track reading" area of the head unit before I consigned it to the scrap bin..
Hope this helps
|Thread: Fiducial lines on a Zeiss Microscope Eyepiece|
..but of course you wouldn't see it through an eyepiece.
Apologies if this turns out to be a stupid comment, I know very little about microscopy - but don't camera lenses employ an alternative fiducial line for focussing in the infra-red part of the spectrum?..
|Thread: Any interesting lathe projects for beginners?|
File - I agree entirely with Nick W. ..it's worth the investment of learning for at least two reasons I can think of (before 8:00 in the morning), although I do stand to be corrected, of course
1. Filing small and/or awkward components can often be completed in the time it takes to set up a milling operation - finishing curves, for example..
2. It doesn't take very much practise, and only a (relatively) small investment in the correct tools, to be capable of producing a very high standard of finish.
It does take a little patience!
Do you have other machinery?
A very common source of small workshop projects - for example, any covers, controls, or adjustments that require a spanner or key to operate might benefit from a dedicated, well thought-out handle, perhaps to make speed changes less of a chore.. Do all parts (depth stops, table- and mitre-clamps operate accurately, smoothly, and as you would wish them to?
Fixes can be as simple as say, making a thicker chamfered washer to move the stop position of a clamp handle to prevent it fouling other parts, to as complex as one might ever wish.
With regard to your comments about steam engines, try a Stirling - if you pick the right "wrong" design the resulting expenditure of time and effort for so little gain might well cure you of latent-but-unwanted engine-building desires for ever
|Thread: C.A.V Dynamo Question?|
Hi Rik, welcome to the forum. I'm surprised no-one else seems to have got here first, maybe they're not home from work yet..
It's a CAV alternator, I imagine supplying 24v and judging from the connector on the back using a screened cable so probably of military origin - perhaps for fitment to a communications vehicle, but I wouldn't rule out an aircraft.
I've no real idea of the age - CAV were part of Lucas for decades, and I think are now part of Prestolite, an American auto-electrical concern.
I wouldn't be surprised to find that someone here knows exactly what it is from.
The Part No. CAV AC5B246M doesn't yield much from Bing except for some bearings in Gdansk, but did throw up a company in Preston called DFJ Auto who handle replacements for CAV alternators - they may be able to help you with further information regarding the intended fitment.
I imagine in terms of value, it's really more of a curiosity/item of historical interest than anything, although the sectioning has been carried out very nicely - a military vehicle auction might be a good bet to find the right kind of customer, or simply go the online route and see what it makes..
Wait and see whether anyone else responds with better information - good luck with the sale
|Thread: Seeking advice on suitable lathe|
..Having just seen your second post, if you are only planning to bore and finish the rings on the Hobbymat, you could certainly do it, but only if you enjoy the time you spend at the machine and are confident of recovering the costs of the processing involved.
You'd need to step up drill sizes from, say, 6mm to 10 (possibly visiting 8 in between), and then use a boring bar to finish to size. If you can find one cheap, it'd get you started, but I certainly wouldn't spend too much money on one if I could buy a larger machine with a warranty and spares support for very little more..
Have you rejected the idea of a new Far-eastern machine? ..the 180mm-sized machines have a 20mm spindle bore, weigh about 40kg (as a short-bed), and have about 500w, depending on the supplier..
I think Andrew raises valid points. I can tell you that as far as the Hobbymat goes, I don't think it'll fit the bill - others may disagree, but to my mind it wasn't really designed for repetition drilling of 20mm holes into stainless steel. The standard 3-jaw chuck will only accept material up to 16mm into it's internal bore, and the tailstock only has a 1MT taper to hold tool shanks, which tells one really what the designer and manufacturer envisaged for it.
Parting off tough material will unnecessarily hard work for this small, flexible machine - the "bed" is not much larger in section than the work you are proposing to turn.
Unless someone knows otherwise, the machines haven't been made for (?)some years, and there is no realistic spares back-up other than for the most generic items such as drive belts.
Considering the nature of the work you are proposing, I would make my economies in the bed-length, and be looking for the largest swing/spindle bore capacity coupled with the shortest bed - I too am inclined to think 50kg is likely to be to small to successfully achieve the kind of machining you are considering with much ease.
Could you bore them on your mill?
|Thread: Just bought an ML7, what should i do first?|
Hi Shaun. If you do decide to lift the bearing caps, it is essential that any shims beneath them are re-fitted in exactly the same positions as they were originally found - they occasionally stick to the bottom of the cap as it is lifted, so it's worth a quick check here to make sure that you have them all.
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