Here is a list of all the postings Terry Kirkup has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Carbide Tipped Tooling explained.|
Hi old mart, good to hear your views. For what it's worth with my very limited experience, the Chinese stuff is doing everything I need it to do and the Banggood drills I got are superb, every bit as good as the Milwaukee and DeWalt stuff I've used for years, even on stainless. I'm also more than happy with the Warco 290 lathe I bought, absolutely no complaints. The only regret I have is that I don't have the time to start making models, especially after visiting the wallet-sucking Doncaster show!
haha, cheers Mark
Hi Gents/Ladies. You folk will know all of this but I'm just a few months in as a lathe owner. I've been tooling up since Christmas and can now do simple lathe work. I dived straight in with a Chinese QRTP and indexable tools and it's been like a drug. I just thought I'd share this in case it hasn't been let out on here. Although I have very limited understanding of most of it, it still has me completely mesmerized!
|Thread: DIY Bed Gap|
Thanks for that thought Rob but the weight of opinion on here is massively in favour of me not touching the thing so I'm running scared now. I'm bowing to all this collective experience. And yes, I think your idea would be difficult for me as a newbie, I think I'm a bit of a "twister" rather than "turner" At least the kids pay for their own discs (usually, eventually!).
I'll watch for that, but I've just renewed the wishbones, track rod ends and anti-roll bar bushes on the van so it's as good as it can be for the time being, cheers Hopper.
Very good Richard, but that picture is actually me
Nigel, I love that!
And Hopper, I don't think that quite explains how brand new discs cure the problem as other issues would surely prevent such an instant fix. I did have a duff wheel bearing once on the van but it manifested itself in other ways too, not just steering wobble. Thank you for the input.
This morning I will speak to the lathe and tell it to relax, it won't be going under the knife after all.
Cheers Dave, appreciate the advice. I will certainly give this a go, shouldn't be too long
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 25/04/2019 15:36:53
Here's the price of discs for my van, just for info. If I bought the best that would be £216 for the front only. Not as cheap as claimed elsewhere! But I don't buy the "best" and wait for cheap deals coming up. My offspring and their hubbies are all heavy-footed so-and-sos just like me, the wife's car is driven least and suffers most. There probably is something valid about the lack of asbestos in pads now but I think the steel is much inferior too. Most of the changes I am forced to make are due to steering wobble setting in, immediately cured with new discs, not heavy grooving or scoring.
I'm sorry to have dragged model engineering into a driving instructor's course! No further advice (on lathe butchery) required
It wasn't a wind-up Stewart
Disc skimming was always an emminently do-able job as many have done in years gone by (nice one Clive, nice one ega), and indeed many garage services provided but I agree that current steel discs ain't what they used to be quality wise. I've lost count of the ones I've changed just over the last five or more years, mainly on French motors but also Ford and Fiat. And I wait for Eurocarparts sales before buying new discs, they know my face well in the local branch now.
If Simon is right (above) about torque production on my lathe, or lack of, then I can't really see how the bed could twist with 50mm of the vee removed 20mm deep and only on the back way. I manage to stall it now and again trying to part off or take too big a bite, unless the belt's too slack which is quite possible as there wasn't much guidance in the handbook. It's bolted very securely to the stand and the stand to the concrete floor pads and absolutely square in both planes.
However, I bow to all of this opinion and absolutely do not mind being the butt of a (tasteful) joke!
Thanks again folks, you have definitely put me off the idea!
Hi Brian, can you explain a little more please?
Wow! Thank you all Gentlemen, I think we have a winner. I half expected a negative reaction and I'll forget all about the idea now under such a deluge
The disc thing is of course incidental, not the main reason for buying the lathe but just an add-on idea, and Simon, I did get a four jaw chuck with the machine so would have been using that if you'd all said "yes". I will now dispose of (or cut up and utilise) the old discs I have laying around, some vented, others solid.
Thanks again All.
I'm just about getting used to my Warco WM290V lathe after buying into the game in November, very late in life. One of the things I had in mind was re-facing the discs from the family's cars and my van which only seem to last a year these days. However the biggest of these discs is up to 10mm bigger in diameter than the lathe swing will accept.
Therefore, my question is, can I cut the bed to give me the room I need or not? The red outlines on the photos show the only chunk I'd need to remove, a few inches of the inverted V section. The green lines on the ways show the limit of apron travel.
I'm also curious as to why the chuck/spindle is centred the way it is, neither over the flat ways or the inverted vees?
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 24/04/2019 13:12:26
|Thread: Mill Query, help needed|
Hi Bazyle, thanks for the input. My kit is for personal satisfaction only, no intention to make money from it, I'd worry about my workmanship too much! I take your point about the extra size. Another midnight Googling session approaches, I fear.
I bought a Warco WM290V in December and although it hasn't many miles on the clock yet I think it's a fabulous piece of kit. Because I've been trying to equip a workshop for when I can't ride bicycles any more I think it need a mill for the sake of completion.
I looked at the 2901 milling head attachment for the lathe but it only has an R8 spindle thingy while the lathe is 3MT, which I found a bit weird, but because I've invested some pennies in 3MT bits I'd like to keep the mill compatible. Because of that it looks like I am slightly restricted on choice. I've looked at the Warco WM16B which apparently does have an MT3 spindle and also the Amadeal AMAT30LV ditto. I then came across Frank Hoose's 2015 review of the Sieg SX2.7 on YouTube and was quite taken by that as it goes down to 40rpm for tapping as against 100 I think for the other two here and I like some of its other functions although it seems it is only R8 equipped, although Ketan at ARC did mention an MT3 version of the similar SX30 on here somewhere.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Clive India I was hoping to find an old 1950s Raleigh type pedal with a loose central spindle, removing the rubbers and the end shells would have left me with a lovely chrome plated handle!
I've just finished this for my lathe. laugh if you like, once a biker always...
(I'm a better biker than machinist).
|Thread: Parting off tool - straight or angled.|
Don't buy one of these! Got it off eBay from a Herefordshire tool seller. Used it an hour ago for the first time. There is simply too little metal beneath the blade, hence the result in my photo.
|Thread: New Lathe Tooling|
Well after a miserable 5 or 6 weeks housebound with some awful ailment the shed was the last place I fancied but I took ther plunge today whan another little parcel popped through the letterbox.
You'd be forgiven for thinking "it's a nut". What it is, is my proposed solution to the Aloris-type Qucik Change Toolpost mounting issue. Now you must realise I'm a poor welder but a better welder than a turner so I percieved a much easier solution than any I've seen on Googaloo. So I bought a couple (just in case!) of 5/8" UNF nuts after carefully checking the central BXA toolpost thread and squiggled a quick drawing.
This from measuring the cross-slide after removal advice from JasonB, although on my 290V the bolt plus the lower boss popped out as one after a few hammer taps. So, to my first turning job:
I left the nut tightly screwed onto the BXA bolt for easier holding, scared silly!
I think this is as close as I ever want to be to the chuck!
The almost finished article:
Looks like success first time.
Not quite! I hadn't accounted for the nut which the top slide leadsrew runs in, it projects into the cavity below, so I had to reduce the lower hex section of the adaptor to about 4mm thick:
Here it is tapped snugly home:
And this is the 12 or 13mm gap I have from the underside of the toolholders to centre, well pleased with that and may be able to use 16mm tools although I'll settle for 12.
As you see a bit of sideways thinking here but some of the more regular solutions offered scared me rigid as a total newbie. Now I can maybe turn something!
Thanks to everyone on here for the help and advice and may I wish you all a very happy New Year.
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 04/01/2019 20:18:32
Okydoke, I think I can maybe offer what will probably be my single ever useful contribution to this Forum. I have just stood the BXA/250-222 QCTP on the top slide of my Warco WM290V lathe and can confirm without a shadow of a doubt that it DOES indeed fit this machine. The only tool I have is the one in the photo below, a 10mm square indexable type given by a friend to get me started. With the toolholder set to its lowest position on the post there is still a 3 to 4mm gap between the tip of the carbide bit and the tip of the tailstock centre. I call this a win and I still haven't seen it stated as a definitive Yeah or Nay for this lathe and others like it so I'd like to make it so now. (with the usual disclaimers!!!). But pictures don't lie and this has NOT been Photoshopped!
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