Here is a list of all the postings Terry Kirkup has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Vise/Vice advise|
|Thread: Power feeds for Chinese mills|
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 22/07/2021 21:18:57
Well, I've managed to complete the X-axis drive apart from tidying the cables. It works very well, hope it still does in 10 years' time! (if I'm still around...)
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 22/07/2021 21:23:10
|Thread: X-axis power drive|
Well I've made steady progress since taking the bait. I'm pretty sure my methods are somewhat unorthodox , as are so many others on here but all with the desired result, and I enjoy looking at everyone elses' solutions, as varied as they are. I dived straight in after advice from John Haine and plenty of Googling and ended up with a Nema 34 9Nm closed loop stepper motor, PSU and controller. What didn't come with the kit, or indeed what wasn't even mentioned on Stepper-Online's web site, was the ubiquitous PWM thingy, viz:
So I located a few and bought them without a real clue as to how it would all fit together. Anyway, this puny item became something of an enemy very quickly. Which dimwit (apologies if you are seeing this, whoever you are) arranged for the controls to point in different directions? Absolutely nonsensical, surely? However, once I'd got the thing wired up and saw the motor respond correctly I sat down to ponder, and this is what I came up with:
A quick turning job, shame I only hadd 25mm diameter stock, but hey, I got there. So with a carefully chosen box having a suitable lid, they solved that little issue.
And this afternoon I got most of the gubbins mounted ready for the timing belts arriving and just hoping I haven't missed anything.
I will be covering up the slotted things to keep metal at bay and also running a nice earth lead between the mill and that ally end panel.
And incidentally, that Nema34 motor turned out to be WAY too big and heavy for the X-axis so it's movig up to the Z now, replaced by a Nema24 4Nm job.
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 18/07/2021 20:44:40
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2021|
Today I got this far with my power feed conversion:
A simple problem solved and all is good. Power hungry devices mounted on a nice square yard's worth of aluminium heat sink.
|Thread: Mill startup|
Good evening Gentlemen. I'm only just getting into this milling business properly since my WM18B arrived a few months ago, although all I've produced so far are vise clamps and currently some X and Z axis motor mounts. Now try not to laugh while I continue.
The very first time I switched the thing on there was a delay of milliseconds but it felt w-a-y longer than that before the spindle started turning. This really unsettled me as for that initial period I thought "oh,oh, it's not going to start". I switched off and tried again - same deathly hush before it began to rotate very sluggishly from rest.
So Question One is, is this normal?
Question Two should generate a bigger laugh, I feel. Because of the aforementioned breath-holding I decided that startup time was crucial to the machine, it was having a wee think and checking itself over before getting ready for swarfing. So I decided that henceforth I would let it start up on zero revs or whatever (it reaches 106 eventually) then slowly increase them to working speed. Wait, there's more... As part of this "safety first" train of thought (mechanical sympathy, if you like) I also decided that once the hole/cut/whatever had finished I would then wind the rpm right down before finally switching off. I've been doing this ever since.
So Question Two is, does it matter?
|Thread: Stepper Motor basics|
I have a question that is potentially daft but I'd still like an answer to, just in case. Does anyone know for sure whether or not the little arrow at the bottom of this label means this is its correct orientation? And as an aside, I think I bought a tractor, this thing is a MONSTER just to drive my WM18B X-axis drive, I could hardly pick it up! I reckon you are spot on Muzzer!
|Thread: Power feeds for Chinese mills|
Haha, cheers Ady1. Or at a stretch I could use someone else's arm to crank it .
As it happens I'm going to be tight on sideways movement and even though I do have an unused Makita angle drill I think I'd like the setup to look a bit more business-like for when the time comes for Wifey to flog all my kit! (RIP Me).
Thank you Gents for the responses. Speedy, I watched a couple of Tube vidz that discouraged the use of Open Loop stuff, I didn't have a clue but was happy to be guided by their opinion on the advantages of Closed Loop over t'other type. I hope to still save a lot over a ready made hunk of steel like William's photo above and electrics from the likes of Axminster and others.
Not done it yet, I did consider that simpler approach but again there are so many folk pushing steppers as the ultimate solution I decided to go that way.
Martin, wow, that's a conclusive answer I think, thank you. May come back to you if I get tied in knots when the bits arrive, if you don't mind.
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 05/07/2021 19:30:53
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 05/07/2021 19:31:48
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 05/07/2021 19:32:10
Hi All. After a great deal of hair-tearing and some great info from John Haine and others on here and the Tube I've just taken the plunge and bought these bits. I'm not clever enough to be interested in CNC stuff but just want a rapid winder for my WM18B mill's x-axis. I hope I'm on the right track with this kit but would like to know what else I need to get the motor to work, aside from the obvious drive belt and pulleys, or similar drive connection. I'm a firm believer in K.I.S.S.
|Thread: Mill and Lathe|
Warco are great. I had the same or even longer delay getting my WM18B and actually paid for it getting on for a year ago. However Warco range me up to cancel that initial payment then a few weeks later were back on the 'phone to take payment again - Suez Canal unblocked maybe, and now I actually have the beast! Besides that, however, I must have got a Friday afternoon chuck as it was useless, badly off-centre. I sent them a message via their web site and a few days later received a replacement, no problem at all, with instructions to dump the first one. Great service, as I've had from the other major suppliers mentioned on these hallowed pages. Nice machine for me, a simple soul.
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 21/06/2021 16:03:05
|Thread: Super 7 cross slide cover|
I found some semi-rigid plastic sheet, about 1mm thick which seems to do the job nicely. Now then my Learned Friends, don't be too harsh on me for using a few chopped-off bits of angle iron to hold my new vise down, I'll make some decent ones when I can get off my crutches
|Thread: Warco wm18|
Hi all. Bit of a late add-on, but I've just installed my own WM18B and if it has got a gas strut it sure doesn't do anything! Why is the handle placed at the top, seems crazy to me?
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 27/05/2021 09:49:17
|Thread: R8 Help me please!|
Thank you all again! The grub screw is easily reached through the vertical slot in the quill. I've left it in but withdrawn enough to get it out of the way.
However, at first I still couldn't get the final 12mm or so of the R8 chuck pushed up to its seat!
Douglas Johnston, spot on my friend, I had to do exactly the same, the top of it was slightly oversized!
Peter Smith 5, not really a problem, just feels a bit iffy to me. I expected it to run up immediately just as the lathe does, and not this eerie creep up to its lowest speed. On that subject, should I also be reducing the speed to minimum before switching off?
Wow, thank you All gentlemen for the very prompt responses. I didn't have a clue what was up the spout, so I'll go and see if I can unscrew it now. Once again I am deeply impressed by the help available on here.
I tried out my new Warco WM18B mill last night shaving a few chunks of mild steel angle to make hold-downs for Arc's Type 2 vise. That went fine, machine seems nice although I find it a trifle disconcerting that nothing happens for what seems an age after switching on until the spindle runs up. Scary. (why is that?).
Anyway, I've just tried to get my R8 ER32 collet chuck mounted and it won't! Pretty pleez take a look at this pic and tell me which keyway is correct, new chuck on the left or Warco supplied arbour on the right (which does go in the quill). There's a good old difference in depth there. All I can feel about 60mm up inside the quill is a single pip, not a key as such. I suppose I could get a file up there but should I?
Edited By Terry Kirkup on 26/05/2021 13:35:00
|Thread: X-axis power drive|
Haha, thank you Clive! I'm pretty much "into" the regular oil wiping now after finding one day that the chuck on the lathe had started lightly rusting overnight. Fettled when I realised I needed to keep my workshop conversion warm. My Arc type 2 vise arrives today and I'll mount that centrally. When the time comes to add the power feed I'll leave the table centred between the two while idle. Thanks again
Old Mart, thank you Sir. I had a feeling they'd be quite a bit heavier than that. As the table is only about 40-odd mm deep it looked a wee bit susceptible to me, at least at reasonable extension.
Hi all. I first became a "Beginner" in late 2018 with the arrival of my Warco WM290V lathe. On Saturday I became a beginner again when My WM18B mill arrived, (thank you Egyptian river pilot) and my hand-picked volunteers managed to carry it into my workshop.
I've seen several mentions on here of the capacity of a cast iron lathe bed to bend and/or twist. With that in mind I wonder if someone could tell me what is the risk of my much less substantial mill table doing the same with a dirty great lump of motor and gears hanging off one unsupported end?
Or do I worry too much?
|Thread: Milling attachment|
Bo'sun absolutely right, so annoying and so restrictive for normal turning/facing operations with the slide in the way and the "unexpected" need for swapping has had me cursing many a time, hence my name is now on a list for a mill!
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