Here is a list of all the postings Graham Meek has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Digital Height Gauge Recommendations?|
I used to have a digital Height gauge, but going into the workshop at this time of the year the numerals were as difficult to see as the lines on my old Vernier version.
I decided to make my own, and in a size which better suits my needs. This is easily as accurate as my other two units and much easier to read.
The cost was one needle roller race and a scale from a cheap depth gauge. The rest came for the scrap box or from materials in-stock.
Edited By Graham Meek on 16/01/2021 11:43:11
|Thread: MEW 300 IS HERE !|
I expect my media delivery service will drop one through my mail box on Saturday, but hey I am not that bothered if I have to wait until next week, or next month. I think given the circumstances, we are lucky to have the prospect of a delivery at all.
|Thread: Emco FB2 Quirks and Additions|
Something I have not mentioned so far is the FB2 Slotting attachment. Originally designed to ease the slotting operation on the Rack location in my Centring Attachment.
This was sold via Neil Hemingway and while the first batch of 10 was easy enough to do on the lathe. The subsequent larger batches required something to ease the stress on my right arm.
Of course the attachment had other uses than for what is was intended, and once set up it could be used for other things.
These included the internal keyway for the Myford Handwheel dial, (shown in the opening photograph), which Neil was selling quicker than I could make them, (no far Eastern DRO's back then). Then when the supply of Racks for the Centring attachment dried up these too could be made on the FB2.
The adjustment teeth in the Push-Pull Scraper posted just before Christmas were also cut using the Slotting head while it was still set on the Rotary Table. This was done after profiling the Head of the scraper with and endmill.
Here are the component parts, the unit has one stroke, making this adjustable would have made the unit protrude further from the face of the Milling head which would have put more strain on the Quill housing. More than I was prepared to accept, for what was considered a luxury.
Edited By Graham Meek on 06/01/2021 11:43:19
Edited By Graham Meek on 06/01/2021 11:44:11
|Thread: Mery Christmas Everybody|
To Friends Old and New, a sincere hope that you all have a Happy Christmas and that the New Year sees us all here again next year.
Take care and stay safe,
|Thread: Pull-Push Scraper|
I only managed to get some photo's of the tool fully assembled on the one bright day we have had recently. I like to use natural light when ever I can and the current weather is abysmal for photo-shoots. Plus I have not considered writing this up as yet, other projects need sorting first, so the need for photos of the parts was no a priority.
If you do a Google for pull-scrapers, on the Forums in the USA there are some interesting videos of using the Pull scraper. Also the Swiss have a different way of going about scraping. They go in 4 different directions. Using this technique I have found it quicker to bring a surface to flatness.
One video on hand finishing precision squares I found interesting. Perhaps one of the Moderators can paste the links here?
Thanks for your kind comments,
The blade is 10 x 2 mm section and protrudes from the head about 15 mm. In use the pressure required to remove material is not that great, despite the cutting edge being a square corner. I hold the lower handle in my Rt Hand, similar to how I would hold a pen when writing. The upper handle rests on my Rt collar bone area.
Using the index finger of my Lt hand to align the blade on the work before pulling with my Rt hand. I have not noticed any spring in the blade in use.
Thanks for the kind words Steve,
The following 3D view courtesy of John Slater, will probably shed more light on the workings. The Brass locking pad is not shown, as at the time John received my drawings I had not drawn this detail up.
Hope this answers any construction queries,
If you left click on the last image you will just make out the M6 Grub screw which presses on an inclined Brass pad. This gives a wedging action to clamp the blades and any pressure along the blades from the cutting action adds to the gripping action.
The Carbide blades are ex-industrial wood planer. I use these mainly to rough out, as the edge last for some time between sharpening. The finish left by the Carbide is not so good as the HSS. Due mainly to better honing facilities for HSS.
The HSS does however last for a very long time. I would have to hone my Carbon steel Eclipse tools almost constantly to get similar results. For my part I consider the HSS to be the best all round material.
Some while back a post was made on the Forum concerning the use of scrapers. Posing the question as to whether they should be pushed or pulled. While I had seen references to pull scraping for recessed surfaces, it was not something I had given much thought too.
The Forum post did however start me thinking and a Google search brought up some very good information and several posts over the years on Forums in the USA. I tried the pull scraping technique by modifying a small Eclipse flat scraper that I had. Although I have done a great deal of conventional scraping in the past, I did find the pull scraper easier to use and more controllable. Also with my muscle problems this method did not give me so much grief.
During my searches one design in particular by "Agathon" took my interest and started me off on a design for myself. The above scraper has interchangeable blades of HSS or Carbide. The end faces of which are ground and honed dead square. The resultant face can be at 90 degrees to the blade or at an oblique angle. This allows the blade to access the corners when doing dovetail slideways.
The head that carries the blade can pivot to 5 different positions and in the in-line position the scraper can be used as per a conventional push scraper, with the appropriate blade.
The position of the handles are adjustable to suit each individual user. They are made from one Woodturning Chisel handle. An M5 Wood Screwcert allows an M5 grub screw to lock the handles in the desired position.
Some results from this type of scraping can be seen on the work tables in my post, HSS/TUNGSTEN TOOL HONING MACHINE.
|Thread: HSS/Tungsten Tool Honing Machine|
It has been a while since my last post on this topic. The reason being I needed to make another tool to make things easier for me to complete this tool.
Above is the set up for setting a specific radius. The feeler blade in this instance being 0.05 mm.
This gives a better view of what is happening. The dowel pins are aligning the tool centrally on the fixture centre-line. The springs on the tool clamp hold the tool temporarily during the setting process. When the tool is being urged towards the fixed stop. Final tightening being done with the extended M4 capscrew.
The tool holder and segment are then transferred to the radius table on the honing machine.
I have found it an advantage with small radii to initially stroke the tool across a stationary stone. This takes away any tendency for the sharp point of the tool to dig into the stone.
This gives a better view of what is going on,
The spare segment shown on the right is held in position by some small magnets inserted into the tooling holes used to manufacture the segment. These also help draw the segment into the semi-circular recess.
I needed to make a Pull scraper in order to finish the table, with my muscle problems I find this easier to use, more details on this in another Post.
Edited By Graham Meek on 14/12/2020 16:10:07
|Thread: Unimat boring head|
His article on this particular boring head may well have appeared in "Model Mechanics". I know his "Gear Cutting" articles are in these magazines somewhere.
I distinctly remember the single circular cutter he made to cut the internal gear, but that is as far as my memory goes. He did encourage the Emco user to experiment with the capacity of their machines. I learnt a lot from him in the early days with my Emco Unimat SL and 3.
Model Mechanics used to be available on this site, I don't know if they still are, as I have not looked for them lately.
|Thread: Evolution of a Boring and Facing Head|
Thanks Raymond for the kind words, it has been a while since we last exchanged emails, I hope all is good with you.
My best regards
|Thread: Unimat boring head|
I am not sure, I think Rex Tingey did something similar, but I may be wrong. I do not have his Unimat book any longer so I am unable to check.
Someone also modified a Unimat 3/4 topslide to make a boring head.
|Thread: Evolution of a Boring and Facing Head|
Thanks for the kind words,
The 50 mm design has just been published in the Home Shop Machinist. Part 1 was in the Sept/Oct issue and part 2 has just been published in the Nov/Dec issue.
The smaller 36 mm size was sent to Neil for publication a while back. I suspect current Covid problems have delayed the publication of this article.
The article for the 66 mm version is nearing completion.
Hope these notes help,
Thanks for your kind comments concerning my work and the drawings. I never offer anything for publication that I have not made myself. The original drawings which go into the workshop usually come back before the computer with red marker pen signifying a modification, or omission. As the years go by these drawings seem to be getting more red on them.
Edited By Graham Meek on 16/11/2020 16:43:29
|Thread: Emco FB2 Quirks and Additions|
Glad to see you have the FB2 sorted.
I have just read your post concerning the out of vertical on the column.
I would be inclined to take the head off the column. Then present the cylinder square to the exposed mounting face on the Column Slider casting. I would try with the Lock/Clamp On and Off.
If there is no error, move the Slider out of the way and offer the Cylinder square to the Column. You will need to raise the Cylinder square for this test on some known good parallels. As the Column casting spigot is above table height.
If you have parallels long enough these could be extended such that the Cylinder square can be presented to the side of the Column at the same setting. The parallels would need to be lightly clamped to the table to counteract the weight of the Cylinder square.
Provided no adjustment is needed, I would then mount the milling head on the milling machine table. Again you will need some parallels to miss the spigot on the rear mounting face. With a DTI mounted in the spindle swing over the Cylinder square. This test will prove the squareness of the mounting face. Remove the Cylinder square and insert a No 2 Morse test Mandrel in the spindle. Run a clock over the exposed plain portion. This will check the parallelism of the Quill/Spindle to the mounting face and verify the above squareness check.
Some Silver Steel held in a collet and set such the any run-out is at 90 degrees to the reference test will suffice for the above test.
My machine spindle dips 0.02 mm when the Column lock is released, given the overhang I can accept this. My Column adjustment is done off the machine and in use it needs to fall under it's own weight, ie, with milling head attached. Having it too tight means you get stick/slip and sudden un-explained amounts taken off.
With the Column lock on the Tram North-South is -0.01 N to +0.01 S, this is over 200 mm. East-West is Zero-Zero.
Hope these notes help.
Edited By Graham Meek on 04/11/2020 16:52:21
|Thread: Graham Meek’s Super 7 Tailstock Dial|
I have just rechecked my drawings and the dimension is 0.55 mm. You say the gears are close, but not right. In what way? Are they too loose, or do they bind? Will one gear run smoother if it is turned over, (symptom of an offset cutter)?
As regards what appears in the Magazine, my copies were loaned to a friend pre-Covid outbreak, so I cannot currently access them. If you can scan your copy and jog my mind I would be grateful. I have checked all the photographs submitted but cannot see any reference to 0,62 mm.
You are welcome, if I can help you further in the future just ask.
From memory the machining sequence went something like this.
The Face and Outside diameter where the dial goes were turned. The main bore was drilled, bored and reamed to take the Oilite bush. Then the counterbore to clear the input gear was also machined at this point.
The part was then reversed in the chuck, (I used soft jaws for this operation), the part is then brought to length. The boss diameter was then machined, along with the blend radius and chamfer. The thread diameter is then roughed out and the undercut for the thread machined to size.
Griping on the roughed out thread diameter in a chuck on the milling table the Idler gear pocket was machined using coordinates. The part was then mounted on a spigot mandrel by the main bore, (dial end nearest chuck). The thread diameter is finished machined and the thread screwcut to the 3 wire dimension in the text.
Hope these notes help?
|Thread: Broken Verdict DTI|
Having recently totally rebuilt a Metric Verdict DTI that came to me by way of a gift, although broken.
All the parts required to repair the DTI came from Verdict. Kevin in the sales department was very knowledgeable, he suggested I might need some extra parts. One part was even included free of charge, as he thought of it after our telephone conversation. The parts were paid for over the telephone and arrived the next working day.
From memory the thread is 10 BA, which I think was used by several manufacturers.
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