Here is a list of all the postings Robert Atkinson 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Unusual GPO hammer?|
I inherited a small hammer from my father in law (an American) that looked similar but the back end was straight with a narrow slit in it. It looked like a claw but almot closed. I discovered that it is intended for holding pnel pins or tacks for the first blow. It's magnetised with one side North pole and the othet South so the pin is helad firmly and centered between the two halves. Similar to this
|Thread: Aero Fuel|
Biggest problem with Methanol is the energy content. Methanol has around half the energy content of petrol so you would have to carry much more than twice the weight for the same range.
|Thread: Water in fuel|
The samples should be put in a waste container and disposed of properly. Eye witness evidence, stains on the ramp and dead grass on parking areas indicate it is often just dumped.
Avgas is leaded and will kill your catalyst / O2 sensors and is illegal for road use as the corret tax has not been paid. Jet A is not good for modern diret injection diesels du to poor lubricity and i likewise illegal for road use.
Edited By Robert Atkinson 2 on 27/09/2019 20:18:14
Washing the ethanol out with water is pointless in this context because the washing will leave MORE water in the petrol than before. It seems pointless to me anyway.
Just looked at the ethanil kit £50 for a clear fuel can with a drain tap! And how do you dispose of the petrol contaminated water ethanol mix?
Not all old cars have the issue with modern fuels. When unleaded was starting to be introduced in the mid to late 80's it was a lot cheaper than regular leaded (usual tax incentive to lull us into a false sense of security) I had a 1975 Jensen Healey and used to use unleaded, if the cashier would let me! They could not believe that a 10 year old car was OK on unleaded and often took some persuasion to turn on the pump. The JH had a Lotus 907 2l, a modern design and the one I had was a LHD Californian spec example that was specifically meant to run on unleaded.
Edited By Robert Atkinson 2 on 26/09/2019 12:46:41
Dave W beat me to it on ethanol affecting tank coatings. As I mentioned earlier it badly affects some light aircraft tanks. It has some odd effects. Materials that are fine with just petrol or just ethanol can be softened by a mixture of the two.
|Thread: Silent compressor problem|
A company I worked for used lots of these and they should not run too hot to hold your hand on. Have you checked the oil level?
|Thread: Water in fuel|
Sorry not a chemist but do know something about alcohol in aircraft fuels.
To get water out of your fuel, add isopropyl alcohol (IPA) This should ideally be 99% pure but 70% or higher is OK. It absorbs water and is miscible with petrol so keeps the water in suspension and allows it to be carried into the engine and discharged through the exhaust at a constant rate that does not affect combustion. Most commercial fuel "dryers" are just IPA.
|Thread: Petrol Gen for 7 1/4 locomotive|
Where are you located Andy?
What voltage is the Loco motor? If it's 12 or 24V an engine driving a car / lorry alternator would be a better idea than a mains generator and transformer arrangment. A major limitation with mains generators is the need to keep the engine revs constant tto keep the correct frequency, this is not efficent. If using a vehicle alternator the engine can run at it's optimum revs as he AC frequence does not matter as it's turned to DC. This i what the modern "inverter" generators do, they generate "frequency wild" AC, convert to DC and then chop it up into AC at 50 (60) Hz.
If you use a vehicle alternator you could remove the regulator, connect the motor to the alternator output and control power and speed by varying the field of the alternator. Depending on the motor and if it has a governor you might have to provide some throttle control to that too.
Separate enge and alternator gives layout flexibility too.
|Thread: Bench block for small parts - ice hockey puck|
Plenty heavy enough to support a phone.
I do understand the urge to hit a "smart" phone with hammer but don't see why you need a holder to do it
I thought this was well known, but have found no reference on here so I'll give this tip. Ice hockey pucks are cheap, a handy size and made from hard rubber. They make great bench blocks when hand filing or fitting small parts. Enough friction to stop the work piece moving, but won't damage surfaces (or tools if ou do slip. can be easily drilled, V slot cut or similar to locate parts. Also firm enough for backing up when driving small pins or collars etc. The rubber has filler and is quite "dead" so no bounce.
|Thread: PayPal Warning|
Don't know how to turn it off, my account just gives option to turn it on. If all else fails ask them.
|Thread: Are there any left?|
Close Mick, I'm pretty sure it was Moto Sails not sales.
My wife want's to know what is going to happen to all my junk when I die.......
|Thread: PayPal Warning|
Of a similar nature I had a very realistic Smishing attempt yesterday (Smishing is phishing by phone SMS).
The giveaways were the .co.uk and .com in the link and the fact that the origin was a full mobile telephone number. A genuine provider SMS would normally be rom a 4 digit number. And of course the common on that it did not have my name in it.
Reported it to EE and they confirmed it was fraud and that anumber of people had fallen for it.
I don't authorise PayPal to automatically debit my bank account. You have to let them to open a paypal account these days, but can, and I suggest you should, cancel this once the account is set up. You have to transfer funds manually but at least you have control. It's not just fraud, I know someone who sold a vluable item and took the paypal payment out and a couple of weeks later the buyer made a complaint, paypal then took the same amount out of his current accout to put "on hold" while they sorted it out. No warning whatsoever.
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
A particular issue with modern filters is that the can is very thin (presumably to save cost and weight) so will not withstand removal forces. If you can get access, try applying impact force in the unscrewing direction to the rolled bead at the base of the filter. use a punch or blunt cold chisel. It's the strongest part of the filter I've had success with this when all else failed. If going for the punch-through method an old wood chisel is the best tool the flat side distributes the load over a bigger area than a screw driver.
|Thread: How to upset the neighbours!|
Nah, this is how to annoy the neighbours
Not a model engine. I know the offenders.
|Thread: To Pin or Not To Pin|
I would dry assemble. drill for a small (1/8" / 3mm) pin and then clean and assemble with loctite retainer (correct fits etc). The pin is only an assembly aid to make sure everything is aligned properly. If you do use a large pin and loctite there will be some load sharing between the two as nothing is completely rigid.
|Thread: Are there any left?|
That brings back memories. When I was at college in Bristol in early 80's I had a part time job repairing gaming machines and the Listers Dursley social club was one the sites Always a priority call, they had a habit of smashing the machine to get their payout if we didn't turn up quickly enough.
|Thread: Repair required for Milling Knee|
+1 for epoxy and threaded fastteners. Ideal would be low head shoulder type like this
with the shoulder crossing the break.
I'd sort out clamping, and possiblr drilling jig, throughly clean mating surface, uses quality slow cure epoxy and about 40 deg C heat. Leave for a couple of days then dirill threading holes an clearance in small part for standard screw. thread and bolt with standard screws statting ain to places and screwing up before drillin next. On last hole after tapping drill, ideally ream, and counterbore the hole for the shoulder bolt. Clean hole and assemble bolt with permanent anerobicthreadlock / bearing retainer (loctite). The move to the most distant hole, remove screw and drill /ream/counterbore for bolt. untill all done. If the counter bore / head is wider then the dovetail just machin back after allowing 24 hours for loctite to set.
|Thread: Anyone know where I can get hold of 'Gauge Rods'|
For this sort of work a loupe magnifier with scale is a good option. Peak make nice ones and can often be picked up used quite cheaply. Only problen I could see is if you can't get your head close enough with the workpiece in the lathe. A little jig to keep it squae to the work and at the same distance might be useful.
Another option woud be a USB "microscope" camera in a fixed position connected to a cheap laptop or tablet with a scale stuck on the screen calibrated against a couple of slip gauges. There is also measuring oftware available see https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=144331 for a similar application.
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