Here is a list of all the postings andrew lyner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Breaking drive belts on super mini|
@Neil "Don't move the blade sideways while cutting, that's a real recipe for a dig-in. If you want to do this retract the tool before moving it sideways."
I only move it to stop it from drifting to the side of the cut. But where is the drift coming from if the carriage is locked and the blade is square on? (I ask myself. - there's a lot to learn here, I think.)
Luckily, the sprockets are steel.
I know there's no shame in using a hacksaw but parting off is something I'd like to be capable of but not at £20 per failure.
The belt was tight enough to need to remove the top sprocket to fit it. But I will still address the tension problem.
I was searching for info on rear tool posts and came across this link. There are some valid sounding arguments against mounting tools in a way that lifts the cross slide off the bed. I shall investigate height and angle of the cutting face
Thanks for all the responses. Of the possible causes, I don't think it's my being heavy handed as I am on the timid side. I get the blade well lined up at right angles and re-adjust the compound on the go, to stop the blade touching the sides. It's a narrow blade, of course and it cuts very convincingly when it does cut. It really could just be failure to clear the swarf. This last time, there was a really solid ball, jammed / welded in the slot which I had difficulty clearing manually - going in alternate directions until it loosened. The speed was only about 350rpm. An upside down blade may help me out and I can easily try that at no extra cost(!).
I must update my profile (I live in West Essex aamof) but I haven't found anywhere local for these things. I mostly use eBay for bits and bobs but I don't know how to specify a belt and the ones I have seen seem to be only 8mm wide for mini lathes. Mine is 10mm wide.
I did try on e enquiry but he said he couldn't help me.
The idea of an electrical cut-out is attractive. I was wondering how to detect a speed drop that would operate faster than the simple rev counter that's on the machine already. There is probably a good mod that can be done on the brushless motor control directly.
I would like to know how to avoid jams better in the first place, though. I am, much better at parting off these days. I make sure the carriage is locked down, the gibbs strips are not sloppy and I regularly sharpen the blade. It may be I am too chicken to run at a fast enough speed, perhaps.
I have a Warco Super Mini lathe and I have just bust my second drive belt. The first one lasted longer than the recent one. I though I had learned how to treat it right but obviously not! It os starting to get expensive.
When I replaced the belt I looked for a motor adjustment for belt tension but couldn't find anyone the vicinity of the motor. Has anyone had this problem and is there anything I can do about it? Could it be too slack?
The belt is actually quite flimsy and replacing it takes an annoying length of time. Buying one from Warco is expensive and a cheaper source would also be handy to know about. But basically I'd appreciate tips for ways of avoiding having to put in a replacement.
|Thread: Mini lathe speed and tailstock question|
I think that's very credible. There aren't many 'substances' I can think of that will act as a screen to a magnetic field when applied as just a small piece at the front. If you wanted to screen the sensor coil from a passing magnet you would need a big clunky piece of mu metal.
|Thread: More collet and milling tools confusion.|
Just to give closure on my situation, I got an ER 25 collet chuck on a 100mm flange which fits right on the lathe flange. It was only £40 and I now have just one 6mm collet and 6mm end mill. I shall buy things as and when I 'need' them. One day I may even put work in a collet and there is a useful range on each collet.
PS those ER style collets are pretty damn clever with the interleaved cuts. They give you even pressure all along the contact with the tool. Worth buying even if just to sit and watch the way it works!!!
|Thread: Sourcing materials|
Good idea, thanks. Anything is worth a try and I'll make a few visits once I have a shopping list.
Thanks for yet another useful set of advice and opinions.
i really would like to use a 'local machine shop' or small manufacturer as a source of offcuts. However, I have not been able to find anything of the sort in my area, which is West Essex. All the hots I get from a search seem to take me to 'fabricators', who make things with sheet metal or steel fences and gates (wrought iron work). I am amazed that East London isn't littered with the sort of places described in the above posts.
Scrap dealers just don't want to know. I have visited or rung all the ones advertising locally on the internet. The big ones quote Health and Safety as a reason for not dealing with the public and the small ones seem to have discarded versions of the sheet metal work that the local shops produce. I must be pressing the wrong buttons somewhere. I would have thought that the East end of London and beyond should provide rich pickings.
I'll have a look at LINK and Tracy have a site which is hard for me to use because the pages seem to be messed up with the non-printing images.
People will probably say that I have not gone about this in the right way but I have been buying my bits of aluminium and steel from eBay sources.
Some of the steel I have used leaves a very 'gritty' finish and doesn't seem to produce nice spiral swarf whatever I do about grinding tools or the angles I use.
The way they behave seems to be pretty varied. I realise that there are other factors due to my inexperience but is it safe just to order 'steel' rod or profile from eBay. If not, what would be a good source? How should I specify what I want?
. . . . and I realise this is a 'how long is a piece of string? question,
|Thread: More collet and milling tools confusion.|
Thanks for yet another useful list of comments. The lack of reach for a basic 3MT collet is something I hadn't considered (well you don't do you?) so something a but longer would be good.
A flange fitting system could also give me problems, I think because I would also need a backing plate
I have already found my new four jaw chuck very good. Getting it well centred is not quick but has given me an encouragingly small runout and, with a bit of ingenuity with the four jaws in odd positions, I managed to put a dovetail (male) on a 10mm, 30mm square piece of aluminium with it. The carriage lock I made, plus other measures that you guys suggested seem to have stopped the chattering and singing on that exercise. My point here is that it could be worth trying to use a cutter in that chuck, at least to try things out. I am waiting for one of the milling slides that Warco have on back order. The spec of that seems better than others that are available and it looks the same basically as one that's on offer from India.
Some great pictures above - I'm a great believer in 'unofficial techniques' and I certainly need some more odd studding and bolts for me to get inventive with. I basically got into all this in the hopes of producing some affordable hardware for my Astronomy / Astrophotography. The simplest stuff is not cheap and I have not been over impressed with the basic Engineering of many parts. It seems to be way behind the optics, which can be stunning.
I need to be able to mill the occasional slot and rebate in (as far as I can predict) aluminium. The sort of jobs will be appropriate for a Super Mini Lathe.
I am looking all over - including my Metal Workes's Data Book and this Forum and the longer I look, the more information I am getting - on a divergent path at the moment. I can't decide which way to go.
If I only need a small range of end mills then is there any reason not to buy an MT3 direct collet of a particular size and then use only end mills that will fit in that? Is the advantage of an ER system just that it is easy to swap tools? eBay and other places are just bombarding me with options.
|Thread: Chuck compatibility with mini lathe|
Just to let you guys know that the four jaw chuck I bought fits fine (tightly) onto the flange of the lathe. Looks like I didn;t need to worry after all.
|Thread: Hello from a newbie - and questions about a vertical milling slide|
I did a forum search and came upon this thread. Very useful for me as my needs and resources are along the lines of the OP. Some useful tips there.
I have a couple of questions that I'm sure people could clear up for me. Firstly, compatibility. It looks as though the slide in the pictures uses the same circular plate mounting as the compound. (Warco super mini lathe) would I be right that any vertical slide would do, as long as it tells me it's for mini lathe? Also should it rotate? There seems to be a strange lack of dimension drawings in the advert I read. Even a photo if the underside of a slide would give me a clue about how it's fixed to the cross slide.
PS "Why don't you buy a proper mill?" is a likely response. If I find that I cannot get by without one then the finances and space may appear for it and I can always sell any slide that I buy initially.
Edited By andrew lyner on 01/10/2018 10:16:09
|Thread: Chuck compatibility with mini lathe|
The Webmaster could sort it, I"m sure.
Also the 'like' facility is good. You don't have to write a whole post in order to agree with someone. Go on - tell me there's a button somewhere.
Let's just hope. I won't believe it until it's actually bolted in place. Despite a lifetime of Engineering and Physics, there's still something in me that only accepts that measurements are actually right when the part fits or the light actually comes on when the switch is pressed.
I appreciate the sympathy that I have detected in all these posts and I realise this sort of thing must happen for most of us in one form or another.
PS Does anyone else have the problem that I do with the return key on my keyboard? Return takes me to the top of the page. I need to do Cntr Return to move down a line. I have not come across this problem before. Is it some Apple / Windows thing?
There is that information about the three jaw chuck on the Warco site and they say / imply that the 4 jaw is the same (the seven holes on my flange lie on the same circle) so I think I am OK. If the one I end up ordering is no good, I shall just have to return it, I guess.
The 70 / 72 mm thing sounds daft. I guess it could be to do with the Imperial influence on the design of some lathes / chucks.
Edited By andrew lyner on 27/09/2018 09:48:39
I pulled off the three jaw chuck and found that there is no back plate. The flange on the spindle is 100mm and the recess is 72mm which is the same as for a number of 100mm chucks and there are four holes on the flange to fit the studding holes on those chucks. (Cooh - you can spend a lot of money an a good chuck, can't you!)
I don't know why I didn't have a proper look at the start. It's not always a bad thing to be timid about some things though.
I need a four jaw chuck for my Warco Supermini Lathe. Warco’s (plug and play) chucks are on back order and I would like not to wait. Chronos tell me that I need the right back plate for theirs and this seems to be a general prob. I would prefer not to rely on my present skills to produce a back plate myself.
Is there a source of plates that would know what I need?
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.