Here is a list of all the postings andrew lyner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Editing posts and other ideas.|
I use an iMac with the Apple bluetooth keyboard. It talks correctly to all my other software and on all websites that I use. This is the only site where Return gives you a return and then Home. It can't be hard to fix and just has to be an anomaly of the site. I am surprised that no one else has found the problem with an Apple / Unix Desktop machine. There must be some US members with Apple, even if the UK members all use PCs.
On quotes: if you quote a post, it seems to put a copy of the post in a new edit window. Going to another post and pressing 'quote' starts a new edit window (losing your original text) and puts that quoted post in it. On other forums I use, you can highlight a passage and 'quote' it - then another and another. The quotes are stored and you can insert them, putting comments between each quote. Alternatively you can pick and insert quotes one at a time into existing text. It's really very useful on some threads where a number of different people are presenting arguments.
I don't know how long ago the forum software was installed but it could definitely benefit from a bit of an upgrade.
The site is a real gem and I have found it very helpful and useful. Nice members all over the place.
There are a number of ways in which actually using the Forum could be improved and which would bring it up to the level of the other,' better' forums I use. (The ergonomics not the people and the info)
One really confusing thing is how the Return key takes you back to the top of the page. I don't know where that feature came from but I haven't come across it before in my twenty years of Internet use. Could that be changed, without costing an arm and a leg?
Andrew (and I just did it again!!!!)
|Thread: Milling without a milling machine|
Things will have to get worse and I will need some more money before I actually commit to any expense in this direction. But the thread has been useful (as ever on this site). Thanks for all the opinions chaps.
@Ady1: Attempt 1 is really impressive. As a total rookie welder, I can appreciate the welding in your list of pictures of the project. Your final solution looks like a good one. I can see several tables at around the £200 mark. Problem with using the lathe for turning plus milling is that it takes an age to swap over.
I shall just have to keep an eye on Gumtree. Shame about local paper classifieds and Friday Ad, eBay is fine but there are so few real bargains these days.
Having said that, I got a good deal on a Sealey Wig welder a few weeks ago. "Attempt 1", here I come!!!
I bought a vertical milling slide for my super mini lathe and it has turned out to be much better than I feared. That is a long as I am prepared to take the smallest nibbles and the gentlest feed rates. No real problem as I am not earning money with it. Size of workpiece is a serious limitation, however.
I'm sure that a proper milling machine would be great but the only available used ones are really old and too massive and a new mini milling machine will cost as much as my new lathe setup did. (£600 plus)
Now, bench press drills are cheap as chips on the second hand market and you need drive only a few miles to pick one up, apparently, at the drop of a hat. If I were to buy a reasonable milling table, what would be wrong with bolting it to the base of my drill and just buying a new drill when the bearings start to go wobbly?
Is that a totally daft idea as a way of getting long dovetails and slots in aluminium?
|Thread: Min lathe steady rest for up to 65mm diameter|
Very nice Mike.
That's a good point but i need the practice and the steady wouldn't;t be 'on show' if it ends up a bit scrappy.
Edited By andrew lyner on 27/12/2018 14:42:58
The lathe comes without one. But I have only a small milling slide and no circle facility either.
One of the 'excuses' I used for buying my Mini lathe was to allow me to make up 2" extension tubes and adaptors for my astro telescopes. Ideally, they have internal threads to suppress reflections from the sides of the tube (shallow and no particular pitch required). The lengths of tube involved would be up to say 150mm, which is a lot of overhang so I wanted to make a steady rest so I can work inside the tube safely.
There are dozens of designs on Google Images to give me a clue as to a design for a steady that I would have a chance of making but my main question is just how chunky it needs to be. It would be easier if I could make it mostly out of aluminium, and to use some tough 40mm steel angle to sit on the bed. There would be a good area of contact so the off-plane clamping arrangement would not be a problem I think.
I do have some 6mm steel plate of the right size but I hesitate to try to mill it on my mini lathe vertical mill slide. I could go easy, I suppose and I could weld it to be steel angle base. Mig welding is another thing I am getting into so it would be a suitable learning project for that skill. Unfortunately it could end up looking like a dog's dinner right next to the nice new painted lathe.
|Thread: Breaking drive belts on super mini|
@Ron. I found the belt you refer to in the" timing belts" but I only got there by a circuitous root. Knowing one's way around can be a big help. Those belts are more like mine. Not chunky like on the other pages.
Actually the Warco belt has 70 teeth and is 9.5 mm wide so they could be compatible.
But I couldn't find a direct equivalent on Bearing boys site; their stuff all seems to be more chunky. (Don't go making me feel bad about my running costs. I have enough trouble with my own conscience as it is. )
On the subject of dropping and finding things. The magnetic base of my dial gauge is fantastic. You can 'turn it off' and drop all the steel things right in their box. Because of that, it's better than my super magnet that I bought for the purpose.
I managed to order their last two belts from Warco. (It hurt a bit). The belt is more flimsy than any I can find elsewhere. My sprockets are steel but I wonder if that belt size was chosen to protect nylon sprockets on earlier models (to be the weak link, perhaps). Anyway, I should be in business by tomorrow and I will adjust the tension. It will be interesting to find if the earlier catastrophe had managed to jerk the motor mounting enough to slacken it further - to account for the much earlier failure of the second belt. I will go into the shed and find that out soon.
On the topic of cutting rates, I only recently found that there is a speed and depth when turning a diameter that seems to settle down very convincingly - and it's deeper and faster than I would ever have dreamed of (having heard but not properly listened to the comments on YouTube) . The swarf seems to lift off very nicely into coils and the whole thing gets noticeably warm. The motor power is definitely doing its job. It's only when I disengage the power feed that the 'chattery noises' start and I have to pull the cross slide quickly. I guess I can translate that experience (with a cut depth of say 0.5mm) to a suitable speed for parting off with a 2mm cutting tool width. Plus the fact that, when parting, the speed across the surface will always be less as the piece gets thinner.
So many questions and so many points. Where to start?
The tool post is fixed at one point on the cross slide - no T slots so no adjustment of position is possible.
I keep the tool sharp with some relief on the top. I try to have the edge square on and noticed that an angle can pull it to one side.
I didn't understand the calculations about feed rate and cutting speed in the context of parting off. 300rpm is too fast? It took me a while to understand that there is an optimum speed and that I had been going too slowly and I also only recently found that I can quite happily cut at least 0.5mm along an Aluminium rod.This has allowed me to speed up work a lot. But parting off seems to require less depth and speed.
This is all very frustrating because I haven't even had a chance to order a new belt yet. It's still only Sunday night.
@Neil "Don't move the blade sideways while cutting, that's a real recipe for a dig-in. If you want to do this retract the tool before moving it sideways."
I only move it to stop it from drifting to the side of the cut. But where is the drift coming from if the carriage is locked and the blade is square on? (I ask myself. - there's a lot to learn here, I think.)
Luckily, the sprockets are steel.
I know there's no shame in using a hacksaw but parting off is something I'd like to be capable of but not at £20 per failure.
The belt was tight enough to need to remove the top sprocket to fit it. But I will still address the tension problem.
I was searching for info on rear tool posts and came across this link. There are some valid sounding arguments against mounting tools in a way that lifts the cross slide off the bed. I shall investigate height and angle of the cutting face
Thanks for all the responses. Of the possible causes, I don't think it's my being heavy handed as I am on the timid side. I get the blade well lined up at right angles and re-adjust the compound on the go, to stop the blade touching the sides. It's a narrow blade, of course and it cuts very convincingly when it does cut. It really could just be failure to clear the swarf. This last time, there was a really solid ball, jammed / welded in the slot which I had difficulty clearing manually - going in alternate directions until it loosened. The speed was only about 350rpm. An upside down blade may help me out and I can easily try that at no extra cost(!).
I must update my profile (I live in West Essex aamof) but I haven't found anywhere local for these things. I mostly use eBay for bits and bobs but I don't know how to specify a belt and the ones I have seen seem to be only 8mm wide for mini lathes. Mine is 10mm wide.
I did try on e enquiry but he said he couldn't help me.
The idea of an electrical cut-out is attractive. I was wondering how to detect a speed drop that would operate faster than the simple rev counter that's on the machine already. There is probably a good mod that can be done on the brushless motor control directly.
I would like to know how to avoid jams better in the first place, though. I am, much better at parting off these days. I make sure the carriage is locked down, the gibbs strips are not sloppy and I regularly sharpen the blade. It may be I am too chicken to run at a fast enough speed, perhaps.
I have a Warco Super Mini lathe and I have just bust my second drive belt. The first one lasted longer than the recent one. I though I had learned how to treat it right but obviously not! It os starting to get expensive.
When I replaced the belt I looked for a motor adjustment for belt tension but couldn't find anyone the vicinity of the motor. Has anyone had this problem and is there anything I can do about it? Could it be too slack?
The belt is actually quite flimsy and replacing it takes an annoying length of time. Buying one from Warco is expensive and a cheaper source would also be handy to know about. But basically I'd appreciate tips for ways of avoiding having to put in a replacement.
|Thread: Mini lathe speed and tailstock question|
I think that's very credible. There aren't many 'substances' I can think of that will act as a screen to a magnetic field when applied as just a small piece at the front. If you wanted to screen the sensor coil from a passing magnet you would need a big clunky piece of mu metal.
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