Here is a list of all the postings andrew lyner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mini Lathe footprint dimensions and will it slide|
If you are building yourself a workshop on a boat then you are sure to need a solid point where you can give things a 'good bashing' without compromising the boat structure. A moveable shelf could need to have a lot of load capacity in hand, over just the weight of the lathe.
I read somewhere that mounting a mini lathe on a good thick steel plate is good for stability and suppressing vibration. It worked for me - but that is all on a regular timber work bench.
|Thread: Super Mini Lathe belt problem|
Interesting that the replacement motor has an altogether better finish with smaller countersunk heads - showing that the holes were drilled in the right places.
Can't fault Warco on response time. The new motor was delivered just over 24hours after my email to them.
I think your term "peddling" is a bit loaded. If we pay peanuts then there will be the occasional monkey situation. These Chinese machines are very cheap and that always carries a risk. Caveat emptor always applies.
My super mini lathe belt kept slipping under load (that grating / squealing noise). Adjusting the two mounting bolts would tighten the belt but it would just go slack again after any load was applied. It even made the noise on start-up. I was cross enough to take off the motor and spotted the problem. Two of the mounting screws for the adaptor / base plate were missing (holes would not allow fitting).
The plate was swinging out enough to strip the threads on the mounting bolts in the threaded holes in the (inadequately thin) plate - so that's useless too, now. It looks as though the motor holes were drilled wrongly in the first place; all a bit of a dog's dinner, really.
Warco have been very helpful and will send me a replacement motor (I can't wait) but it shows the effect of poor quality control. But we shouldn't grumble because, without those compromises, many of us would not own a lathe at all.
Fault finding can be enjoyable too!
|Thread: The shape of cutting tools.|
I bumped into this and I think it's worth sharing here. It's a pretty ancient monochrome film but the commentary is good (and there's no silly background music there!!)
Despite the glubby quality, you can see all the relevant features of the tools and the workpieces.
It's a good bit of 'revision for the student' (for me, certainly).
|Thread: Cutting steel to size|
My bandsaw seems to be a mixture of good and bad quality construction and design. Where it really counts - the nice chunky frame and pulleys are reassuring and also the general 'band control' features seem fairly substantial. The electrics are a bit screwed-on as an afterthought and I will look into the grounding - thanks. The stand, the vertical cutting elevation control is a bodge and the bent tin legs and table are a joke. When I took the unit off the back of my truck, at home, half the screws had come out and everything was bending alarmingly in my arms as it neared the ground. A few extra spars and even a bit of tack welding might improve it all.
A lot quieter to use and more predictable than the old angle grinder.
Edited By andrew lyner on 24/05/2019 23:03:00
I located (locally) and bought a Clarke 4 1/2 inch bandsaw on eBay and, once I sorted out some lunatic mistakes the seller had made in originally assembling it out of the box, I am really impressed with what it does. It chews slowly but surely through all sorts of materials and leaves a terrific finish. As people have mentioned in other posts, you just leave it to get on with the job and it turns itself off when finished. Brilliant and only £127 !! (including a new spare blade)
A band saw. Yes, I was looking on eBay the other day and I'm waiting for one to turn up, locally. There will be the pr
m of where to put it in my tiny shed but a few things could go to the tip and we wouldn't miss them.
Most of the saws that are on sale are for wood, though. Grrr,
I love that magnetic clamp!!
An angle grinder could work for large radii and many / most discs would need a central hole. However, if I rough cut a circle - either by stitching or with many straight cuts, I still would need to clean up the edge which could tax the poor little mini. This is why I wanted to do it on the (replaceable and cheap) pillar drill.
I was even considering an auxiliary / temporary replacement drive to power the lathe at lower speeds (an extra motor to fit the spindle - extended) but that sort of approach can easily be open ended and demand more and more complication.
I haven't read any serious comment about the cheap and cheerful flying cutter idea. I don't want to chuck away my money, even if it's less than $10 so I though someone here would have tried it once and either rejected the idea or thought it worth while. The advantage would be that the resulting circumference would be pretty clean.
But I now have the disc I needed for this particular job so I will worry again next time round.
Thanks for the comments guys.
Since watching many YouTube videos, I have come to terms with the angle grinder as a potentially useful tool. I always cut outside on my work mate and the disc gives good straight cuts - better than my jigsaw. The shower of sparks go out onto the back lane and a file (or my small vertical mill table can give a good edge and square corners. No room for any more big tools.
but a grinder won’t do circles. The stitch drilling would do any size disc but cleaning up would be beyond my mini lathe lathe. The pillar drill is better for low speed torque - hence my quest for a cutter that will fit the drill. Is there a good ‘ring saw’ make?
I keep finding the need to cut discs out of 5mm steel (I bought a lot of 100mm square offcuts for pence and I am using them where I can).
I tried the circular cutters that come in a set. One was fine and I managed a 65mm diameter hole in some 6mm sheet (also from the offcuts place). I used plenty of cutting fluid and put my toy pillar drill on the minimum speed. It worked fine because I took ages and ages over the job. The 85mm version just wouldn't touch the steel, despite the oil and slow speed; annoying.
So I tried a 2mm HSS parting tool and it actually worked but it was at the limit of the mini lathe capabilities. The belt kept slipping and graunching and I imagine the spare will soon be needed. Not the best technique although it gave a result eventually.
I was wondering about trying one of those Adjustable Circle Cutters. Some have on blade and some seem to have two blades. But they are sooo cheap that I cannot believe they would do anything substantial.
Apart from the "I wouldn't;t start from here" answer, is there a way forward?
|Thread: The cheapest DRO ever?|
Edited By andrew lyner on 26/04/2019 18:03:15
Edited By andrew lyner on 26/04/2019 18:05:57
I found this video which, for me, is an almost free toe in the water for DRO on my mini lathe.
The overall accuracy is not that vital as I would always work to the vernier calliper in the end but this unit will save the 'counting' which I find to be a bind.
I have seen other videos from this guy and he is hardly a Cowboy - a fair amount of experience. I have done the suggested mod on the gauge itself and I'm waiting for a small cylinder magnet to arrive before actually fitting it.
I have read all the comments on the video and there are no surprises.
Just thought I'd pass it on for the benefit of the non wealthy new members of MEW. It may well be a repeat of information that already exists here but it could help someone.
|Thread: Thread locking|
I still have a large supply of lubricants but I have moved up in optical quality.
|Thread: Knurling Tool for Mini Lathe|
I ordered the eBay tool (scissor type) and it is quite heavy duty. It seems to have some lateral movement but, once the wheels have started to bite, it works fine (so far).
I still don't understand how the system works actually. The feed speed, the diameter of the piece and the pitch of the wheel lines all seem to 'cooperate' to give good diamonds. Is it to do with the lateral movement that the tool seems to allow?
I read one post on this forum that claimed the ratios had to be calculated first etc. etc. but others just pooh poohed the idea.
|Thread: Thread locking|
I decided to use simple locknuts and it seems they only need be done up finger tight to keep the bronze domes in contact. The clamp works a treat; very firm and stops the pieces from wobbling even under a heavy cutting load. Once I get the three screws set right, there is no serious movement but the pads just wear a shallow groove - no problem.
PS I really could have done with some of your gunk a few years ago when I had a zoom lens that would move itself whenever it was on a slope. My heaviest grease was no use at all!.
It was cheap and I threw it out, iirc.
|Thread: Quick Change tool post advice|
This is a bit of a necropost but it's still relevant and the problem of tools dipping down when they catch is always with me. It tends to go away when I nip up the Gibb strip but that's fiddly, too. Life improved a lot for general stability and chatter when I made up a Saddle Clamp and a similar screw-down of the compound to the cross slide could also help. I'd bet that others must have done something like that too. (There's not a lot of meat in that area though and I wouldn't want to affect the strength.
|Thread: Knurling Tool for Mini Lathe|
I decided to go for the eBay one. I'm sure it will be up to anything I want it to do. My Warco Lathe is doing very well but I still have trouble with getting a good finish. Still learning about sharpening tools correctly, though, so I put it all down to that. The quality of my knurling will probably be at least as good as the rest of my work.
Thanks for the views, chaps.
I just got back indoors from feeding the kangaroos and read this. Usual sloppy thing about filling in my profile but I do worry about the dangers of this new fangled internet. Risks and benefits, you know. Essex is where I live, since moving back from Wogga Wogga - I really miss those dingos.
That RGD tool in the link does look a bit flimsy and the ones on eBay here, look more substantial and a bit bigger. Has anyone tried one of those? The useful gap seems to be a bit under 40mm, which would be good if it's not too wobbly. It has the right size shank for me and there are extra wheels. The 50mm Warco one looks less substantial from the picture but someone mentioned the problem with relying on pictures.
Doncaster's a long way to go, I'm afraid. I may be demonstrating my dilettante attitude to the business but I was hoping to get the benefit of the experience of others from this very useful forum from the comfort of my office chair. I would travel a fair distance to spend a few hundred quid, though.
If only there were those shops around. It would take a day trip to visit any supplier that I know of. Cheaper just to buy blind.
I have made a few bits and bobs for my lathe but there are things I actually want to make with it and I can't be sure enough of my skills to be confident that what I made would be good enough. I could, of course, make it like a tank - as I do with most of my home made tools. No beauty pageant!!! And the materials would cost loadsamoney.
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