Here is a list of all the postings andrew lyner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Sealey SM2502 table end stop?|
I was moving the table of the mill further and further to the right whilst looking at the dial gauge and it 'dropped off the end' and wouldn't screw back in again. I had to loosen the Gibb strip and then it re-engaged ok. I would have thought there would be an end stop somewhere. Perhaps a screw is missing??
I do have a screw loose but that's another issue.
|Thread: Sealey Milling machine SM2502 part|
I have just acquired a SM2502 (slightly elderly s/h and not expensive) but feels tight enough. I will only know when I start to use it, of course. There is a locking handle (three of the same and with the same number for all three axes of the machine) The one which clamps the table is loose on the screw and I need to use a screwdriver to lock or unlock.
There is a list of spare parts on the Sealey website and I have identified the part (SM2502 030) but it costs £9++ so I was hoping to mend it. However, there seems to be something complicated about the handle because it can only operate over a limited range of angles and there is some sort of 'dog'(?) arrangement so it looks like I can't just tack weld the handle to the screw.
The handle doesn't seem to want to come apart. I imagine it's a part for many different units so it shouldn/t be all that (£10's worth of) special but there's this apparent restricted movement problem.
I'd bet someone here has had and sorted this same problem.
|Thread: Blacking hot steel in oil|
I think that's a good point. The item I have made is an octagonal steel plate with a handle to let me heat up my aluminium espresso coffee maker on an induction hob. It works pretty well and the handle will allow it to be lifted off without scratching / breaking the hob.
I think the way we are told to 'season' a new steel wok is much the same thing. You get it hot and slosh cooking oil round it until it smokes. You get various colours and the wok looks 'used'. It makes a pretty good non-stick surface but you have to leave a film of oil on it ig you want to avoid a film of rust after week on the shelf. The figure of "years" , above, is encouraging tho'.
This plate will need to be heated for a while before I can avoid complaints about the hot oil smell (super sensitive noses on the distaff side). I don't want it to affect the glorious smell of the coffee either. Perhaps another cycle using rapeseed oil is called for.
Great to read all the personal input on the thread. Just what I needed. Cheers.
This crude method seems to give a convincing finish - a lot better than unfinished steel, at any rate. I was wondering if members have tried this cheap and cheerful method and how it stands up against rusting.
My results would be no good for a gun barrel but It's only for a tool, to be used indoors and mainly in the kitchen.
|Thread: Wobbly Kitchenaid Mixer|
Reading through this thread (and many others in this forum) reminds me of the inner dialogues I have in the middle of the night when I get a problem to solve. So many ways of skinning a cat.
There must be a lot of minds like mine in M.E..
I replaced the s/s pin with a grooved mild steel pin. The set screw dug in and has not moved for about ten loaves of bread. I think that's a result.
|Thread: Choice between cheap mini milling machines.|
@Phil you are a lucky chap. I have not seen a suitable one in a year's trawling. I have only seen large ones on eBay and they are not within my requirement envelope.
I suspect that, as long as I go for something new, a bit above minimum spec, then I will be more than satisfied with what I will ba able to do with it. Many of the comments in this thread have been very useful when they have dealt with my basic requirement about comparative performances of new mills.
There is no way I could hope to go for a large, possibly excellent, older machine and I did make that clear at the outset. But the thread has, yet again, been very useful for background information.
@Ron and @derek
I take your point about additional costs and I had the ultimate experience, in that direction, of boat ownership. (The word "Marine" equals two times the cost of anything you could think of.) So I know all about justifying expenses to myself (and my wife, of course). A hobby is a very political business!
There's no limit to how much we spend in the long term. As I mentioned further up the thread, I bought a small vertical milling table for use on my mini lathe and so I already have some basic kit like a small vise and an assortment of T Nuts, bolts and home made clamps. I also have some ER25 collets and an assortment of end mills. So I already have the wherewithal for basic jobs. Posh kit can often be done without at the expense of time and ingenuity.
The message I am getting is that, in nearly every respect, big is better so something with 13mm drilling capability that weighs over 50kg should suit my present needs. A larger shed is not on the cards where we live and I will only be dragged out of our present lovely house when I am incapable of using my tools.
@Hollowpoint I will look around for a More Westbury machine but only the very smallest ones would fit in and I can only find trace of just one on any site and that was sold some time ago. Champagne appetite and beer income, I'm afraid.
@mgnbuk I've seen that posting but that Warco is far too big for me, I'm afraid it would fall through my shed floor! The bids have started at £200 but there are six days to go. I have followed countless eBay postings and the bids for a desirable item tend to shoot up at the end.
The problem with the second hand market in these things is it's a seller's market for small milling machines.
@Paul "I have the equivalent of the Clarke CMD10 as one of my machines. Despite the fact I have done some good work on it I wouldn't recomend you adopt one as a primary means of drilling holes!"
Now that's the sort of comment that means something to me; thanks. My existing drill is not big and I would definitely not want anything less beefy.
@not done it yet"
Seems to me that ‘buy cheap, buy twice’ holds sway.
The likely best way to buy cheap and get a good bargain is to buy a good second hand machine."
Thanks. I was expecting to get that reaction and I agree that there is always the possibility of finding it's true. I don't usually buy down-market but I will have to accept that risk because I am just not going to spend much more than a few hundred quids. I got the same advice about buying my first lathe and, if I had followed it, I am sure I would still not have a lathe. The opposite advice will often be given by tradesmen who buy cheap and often because they get upset when a pride and joy gets damaged, stolen or lost.
Buying a cheap second hand machine just doesn't seem to be on the cards unless I am prepared to do a lot of fettling (no equipment for that job) and to be prepared for significant extra expense. (I just don't see 'good' second hand machines that are my sort of price). The Chinese milling machines never seem to go very 'cheap' on the s/h market. People go wild on eBay sometimes and will bid as high as the best new prices. The large, classic machines are just too big and heavy for my situation. On that note, I am also being considerate for anyone who may need to clear my shed out. A half tonne of desirable machine tool could easily be an embarrassment for a non-enthusiast when something that would fit in a hatchback would not be.
'Good Engineering' involves appropriate choice of equipment and materials so I don't feel bad about going against the good sense of experienced machinists in this case.
@Tomfilery: "I've done loads of drilling (usually in the range 1-6mm) and quite a lot of milling and it is Ok."
Thanks. It confirms that I should go for a bigger machine.
Edited By andrew lyner on 04/01/2020 11:41:10
I notice there is an almost parallel thread to this one which is about lathes. So perhaps my question should be more about that small and large question. I assume they all work fine as a drill press and I keep finding the 13mm chuck on my Titan is useful. Bu I guess I could always use reduced shank drills - as long as the machine is happy with that approach.
I have bought and used a small vertical milling table for the lathe and I have to be extremely gentle with that so I am used to 'limitations'. It is a real pain to change from turning to milling on the same machine!!!
I have looked at the two Clarke models (CMD10 and CMD 300)
Seig SX1 and SX2
and a few others
There are the Warco range (I have their Super Minin lathe and that is pretty fair but some people are not so pleased with Warco, I have read.
I see other models on Bangood and Alibaba but those suppliers have awkward websites and I have shied away from them.
I guess there is really no answer to this question but I want a milling machine in order to expand my experience further than my present mini lathe is taking me.
I'm at 'entry level' and I can see there's a limited choice available. There seems to be a relevant cost barrier around £500. Below this the machines are more lightweight, with, for instance 10mm steel drilling capability below and 13mm above. I do not have room for my drill press and a milling machine so perhaps that forces me to the larger option. Table size and movement range are probably not too relevant (although I know I'll want to do larger stuff eventually. But my requirements are more in the direction of mending and adapting things, rather than making fine models - at this stage, at least.
So the questions come down to "What will I sacrifice if I go to a smaller machine?" and then "Is there a significant and consistent difference between the available makes?"
There is no way I will be spending much more money and I have yet to see a better make on the second hand market that I could afford or fit in to my shed.
|Thread: Wobbly Kitchenaid Mixer|
I see where you're going but the slop is radial and I don't think shims are needed. The pin needs to be pushed radially; It's strange but any wear should be pin against the outside four holes but they are tight enough. the central hole seems to be where the slop movement is.
This is a great little Engineering Problem and it needs experience to solve it. The right choice of materials in the first place would have avoided this being such a frequently reported fault in all the Kitchenaid models .It's not a difficult thing to get right - it's hardly like an engine camshaft, operating at 20,000 revs!. In the whole lifetime of the unit, used a few times every day, the hinge would hardly have to operate more than 20,00 times in a ten year lifetime.
"enough friction to prevent the grubscew backing out." The pin seems to be very hard and the grub screw doesn't manage to mark it al all -so there is virtually no movement and the grub screw can't (by the nature of the geometry) work up any compression or stretch, which is what most properly tightened bolts work on.
When the screw goes slack, there is some slop in the inner hole (the one on the top half of the machine) so merely replacing the pin with one with 'ends' on it, to stop it moving out. That slop means the top of the machine rattles about and I need to stop that - just for quietness.
I like the idea of grinding a small flat on the pin and then using thread lock. I was even wondering about putting a bit of a slot / hole and grinding a point on the set screw for it to bite into. Probably a slightly softer pin would do the job and allow the grub screw to hold it better. It's a very quick job to make changes so I can experiment. I may buy some silver steel and even harden it (?) or would it be too brittle in that application?
That's an idea but I get so cross at spending loads on one squirt from a tube which is out of date by the time I need another squirt. It would certainly be a quick solution.
Thanks for the reply, btw
I hope this is a suitable place to post this question.
I have a Kitchenaid Artisan food mixer and it is almost perfect. It does have one stupid problem and that is the hinge pin that the top pivots round when it's lifted. Anyone who has had anything to do with this mixer will know what I mean about the construction of the mixer.
The pin is about 9mm and s/s. It goes through a meaty 'foot' which is part of the top casting and a pair of holes each side in the casting of the base. It is held in place by a grub screw, half way along and the screw shakes loose after a few months' use in bread making, things start to rattle and the pin starts to come out. Breadmaking is quite a heavy duty operation compared with cakes. (I don't dare starting on a weekly cake bake - get thee behind me Satan!!!`) but the motor seems to cope well enough with a 600g (flour) mix.
The problem is all over Google and only solution I can come by is to screw the grub screw in again - as tight as you can.
If only I could find a link where someone has fixed the problem 'properly', then I would do what they've done. I can't imagine a seasoned ME member who has heard 'that' noise and not wanted to do something about it.
Do I really have to put bushes in the castings, to sort it all out? What's the general opinion / experience?
|Thread: What's that thing called?|
Thanks guys. That's just what I wanted to know.
My mini lathe has a swarf tray but, as with all the chinese lathes, it's very fiddly to get at all the stuff down there and the swarf from a small job would be easier to gather and the fluid could end up right in a container.
I just made a nifty adjustable coolant dispenser with one of those cheapo plastic delivery tubes to drip coolant on the work piece. But it produces much more fluid than I ever manage to do with a manual 'dispenser'.
I want to collect the swarf and coolant with one of those pleated plastic concertina sheets that fit under the slide and follow it. I tried loads of searches but no results.
I've seen many images of peoples' setups with one of these things fitted and I'd love to know what to call it.
Failing that, I may have to do it another way. Big machine shops recycle their coolant so I would be in good company. But I need to do it for sixpence. Any suggestions. boffins?
My cutting is much better with the new gadget.
|Thread: Tapping a nylon hole.|
In the Arctic they fish in ice holes but seals come up to breathe in air holes (same holes, sometimes) Riddle me that.
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