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Member postings for andrew lyner

Here is a list of all the postings andrew lyner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Choice between cheap mini milling machines.
06/01/2020 13:37:14

@Phil you are a lucky chap. I have not seen a suitable one in a year's trawling. I have only seen large ones on eBay and they are not within my requirement envelope.

I suspect that, as long as I go for something new, a bit above minimum spec, then I will be more than satisfied with what I will ba able to do with it. Many of the comments in this thread have been very useful when they have dealt with my basic requirement about comparative performances of new mills.

There is no way I could hope to go for a large, possibly excellent, older machine and I did make that clear at the outset. But the thread has, yet again, been very useful for background information.

05/01/2020 11:03:44

@Ron and @derek

I take your point about additional costs and I had the ultimate experience, in that direction, of boat ownership. (The word "Marine" equals two times the cost of anything you could think of.) So I know all about justifying expenses to myself (and my wife, of course). A hobby is a very political business!

There's no limit to how much we spend in the long term. As I mentioned further up the thread, I bought a small vertical milling table for use on my mini lathe and so I already have some basic kit like a small vise and an assortment of T Nuts, bolts and home made clamps. I also have some ER25 collets and an assortment of end mills. So I already have the wherewithal for basic jobs. Posh kit can often be done without at the expense of time and ingenuity.

The message I am getting is that, in nearly every respect, big is better so something with 13mm drilling capability that weighs over 50kg should suit my present needs. A larger shed is not on the cards where we live and I will only be dragged out of our present lovely house when I am incapable of using my tools.

@Hollowpoint I will look around for a More Westbury machine but only the very smallest ones would fit in and I can only find trace of just one on any site and that was sold some time ago. Champagne appetite and beer income, I'm afraid.

04/01/2020 15:56:57

@mgnbuk I've seen that posting but that Warco is far too big for me, I'm afraid it would fall through my shed floor! The bids have started at £200 but there are six days to go. I have followed countless eBay postings and the bids for a desirable item tend to shoot up at the end.

The problem with the second hand market in these things is it's a seller's market for small milling machines.

04/01/2020 11:20:42

@Paul "I have the equivalent of the Clarke CMD10 as one of my machines. Despite the fact I have done some good work on it I wouldn't recomend you adopt one as a primary means of drilling holes!"

Now that's the sort of comment that means something to me; thanks. My existing drill is not big and I would definitely not want anything less beefy.

@not done it yet"

Seems to me that ‘buy cheap, buy twice’ holds sway.

The likely best way to buy cheap and get a good bargain is to buy a good second hand machine."

Thanks. I was expecting to get that reaction and I agree that there is always the possibility of finding it's true. I don't usually buy down-market but I will have to accept that risk because I am just not going to spend much more than a few hundred quids. I got the same advice about buying my first lathe and, if I had followed it, I am sure I would still not have a lathe. The opposite advice will often be given by tradesmen who buy cheap and often because they get upset when a pride and joy gets damaged, stolen or lost.

Buying a cheap second hand machine just doesn't seem to be on the cards unless I am prepared to do a lot of fettling (no equipment for that job) and to be prepared for significant extra expense. (I just don't see 'good' second hand machines that are my sort of price). The Chinese milling machines never seem to go very 'cheap' on the s/h market. People go wild on eBay sometimes and will bid as high as the best new prices. The large, classic machines are just too big and heavy for my situation. On that note, I am also being considerate for anyone who may need to clear my shed out. A half tonne of desirable machine tool could easily be an embarrassment for a non-enthusiast when something that would fit in a hatchback would not be.

'Good Engineering' involves appropriate choice of equipment and materials so I don't feel bad about going against the good sense of experienced machinists in this case.

@Tomfilery: "I've done loads of drilling (usually in the range 1-6mm) and quite a lot of milling and it is Ok."

Thanks. It confirms that I should go for a bigger machine.

Edited By andrew lyner on 04/01/2020 11:41:10

03/01/2020 23:53:05

I notice there is an almost parallel thread to this one which is about lathes. So perhaps my question should be more about that small and large question. I assume they all work fine as a drill press and I keep finding the 13mm chuck on my Titan is useful. Bu I guess I could always use reduced shank drills - as long as the machine is happy with that approach.

I have bought and used a small vertical milling table for the lathe and I have to be extremely gentle with that so I am used to 'limitations'. It is a real pain to change from turning to milling on the same machine!!!

03/01/2020 23:43:25

I have looked at the two Clarke models (CMD10 and CMD 300)

Seig SX1 and SX2

Axminster SX1

AMA-MI-XJ12

and a few others

There are the Warco range (I have their Super Minin lathe and that is pretty fair but some people are not so pleased with Warco, I have read.

I see other models on Bangood and Alibaba but those suppliers have awkward websites and I have shied away from them.

03/01/2020 22:37:35

I guess there is really no answer to this question but I want a milling machine in order to expand my experience further than my present mini lathe is taking me.

I'm at 'entry level' and I can see there's a limited choice available. There seems to be a relevant cost barrier around £500. Below this the machines are more lightweight, with, for instance 10mm steel drilling capability below and 13mm above. I do not have room for my drill press and a milling machine so perhaps that forces me to the larger option. Table size and movement range are probably not too relevant (although I know I'll want to do larger stuff eventually. But my requirements are more in the direction of mending and adapting things, rather than making fine models - at this stage, at least.

So the questions come down to "What will I sacrifice if I go to a smaller machine?" and then "Is there a significant and consistent difference between the available makes?"

There is no way I will be spending much more money and I have yet to see a better make on the second hand market that I could afford or fit in to my shed.

Thread: Wobbly Kitchenaid Mixer
16/12/2019 23:27:31
Posted by not done it yet on 16/12/2019 23:18:32:

An ‘O’ ring behind a washer or end cap is often sufficient to prevent movement and provide some friction. Otherwise fit shims to reduce any lateral movement?

I see where you're going but the slop is radial and I don't think shims are needed. The pin needs to be pushed radially; It's strange but any wear should be pin against the outside four holes but they are tight enough. the central hole seems to be where the slop movement is.

16/12/2019 23:06:57

This is a great little Engineering Problem and it needs experience to solve it. The right choice of materials in the first place would have avoided this being such a frequently reported fault in all the Kitchenaid models .It's not a difficult thing to get right - it's hardly like an engine camshaft, operating at 20,000 revs!. In the whole lifetime of the unit, used a few times every day, the hinge would hardly have to operate more than 20,00 times in a ten year lifetime.

"enough friction to prevent the grubscew backing out." The pin seems to be very hard and the grub screw doesn't manage to mark it al all -so there is virtually no movement and the grub screw can't (by the nature of the geometry) work up any compression or stretch, which is what most properly tightened bolts work on.

When the screw goes slack, there is some slop in the inner hole (the one on the top half of the machine) so merely replacing the pin with one with 'ends' on it, to stop it moving out. That slop means the top of the machine rattles about and I need to stop that - just for quietness.

I like the idea of grinding a small flat on the pin and then using thread lock. I was even wondering about putting a bit of a slot / hole and grinding a point on the set screw for it to bite into. Probably a slightly softer pin would do the job and allow the grub screw to hold it better. It's a very quick job to make changes so I can experiment. I may buy some silver steel and even harden it (?) or would it be too brittle in that application?

16/12/2019 16:47:41

That's an idea but I get so cross at spending loads on one squirt from a tube which is out of date by the time I need another squirt. It would certainly be a quick solution.

Thanks for the reply, btw

16/12/2019 16:41:31

I hope this is a suitable place to post this question.

I have a Kitchenaid Artisan food mixer and it is almost perfect. It does have one stupid problem and that is the hinge pin that the top pivots round when it's lifted. Anyone who has had anything to do with this mixer will know what I mean about the construction of the mixer.

The pin is about 9mm and s/s. It goes through a meaty 'foot' which is part of the top casting and a pair of holes each side in the casting of the base. It is held in place by a grub screw, half way along and the screw shakes loose after a few months' use in bread making, things start to rattle and the pin starts to come out. Breadmaking is quite a heavy duty operation compared with cakes. (I don't dare starting on a weekly cake bake - get thee behind me Satan!!!`) but the motor seems to cope well enough with a 600g (flour) mix.

The problem is all over Google and only solution I can come by is to screw the grub screw in again - as tight as you can.

If only I could find a link where someone has fixed the problem 'properly', then I would do what they've done. I can't imagine a seasoned ME member who has heard 'that' noise and not wanted to do something about it.

Do I really have to put bushes in the castings, to sort it all out? What's the general opinion / experience?

Thread: What's that thing called?
03/12/2019 17:38:59

Thanks guys. That's just what I wanted to know.

My mini lathe has a swarf tray but, as with all the chinese lathes, it's very fiddly to get at all the stuff down there and the swarf from a small job would be easier to gather and the fluid could end up right in a container.

03/12/2019 15:15:28

I just made a nifty adjustable coolant dispenser with one of those cheapo plastic delivery tubes to drip coolant on the work piece. But it produces much more fluid than I ever manage to do with a manual 'dispenser'.

I want to collect the swarf and coolant with one of those pleated plastic concertina sheets that fit under the slide and follow it. I tried loads of searches but no results.

I've seen many images of peoples' setups with one of these things fitted and I'd love to know what to call it.

Failing that, I may have to do it another way. Big machine shops recycle their coolant so I would be in good company. But I need to do it for sixpence. Any suggestions. boffins?

Andrew

My cutting is much better with the new gadget.

Thread: Tapping a nylon hole.
02/12/2019 20:20:25

In the Arctic they fish in ice holes but seals come up to breathe in air holes (same holes, sometimes) Riddle me that.

02/12/2019 09:46:18

@not done it yet "a fluid changing a volume". A fluid is fluid so the result of expansion will be in the direction that it's 'allowed to flow'- or the detailed pressure conditions around it. It's always in the details of the conditions that the substance is subjected to. Under a powerful Press, a lump of metal will flow outwards when its temperature goes up. Or, more likely, will form a waist or bulge as it cools down (depending on the temperature of the press faces and the relative temperatures through the lump. Some hard sums to do there, I think.

I have to apologise for this excess of Physics and Pedantry but I frequently read and post on Physics Forums, which is wall - to - wall in both respects. I use a pseudonym on that forum to protect the innocent.

"only a very few of us answered it as meiosis". Teenage boys' minds are mostly concentrated on sex. Surprising there were not more right answers. Or was it just down to sloppy spelling?

"‘Proficiency in the Use of English’ exam" I done that won and I weren't bad at English at the time. devil

02/12/2019 09:20:14
Posted by Hopper on 02/12/2019 00:49:19:

The hole is not made of air. If you take the air that's in the hole and place it in the middle of the room, it is no longer a hole. The hole is still back in the piece of nylon.

The air that's gone into the room is still a 'potential hole', though and the air in the hole is now a new actual hole.

But this gets a bit tenuous when you put a brass threaded rod in the hole. I don't think you could now call it a brass hole.

Collapse of argument. angry

01/12/2019 23:12:20

smileysmileysmiley

01/12/2019 22:45:36

It just struck me that the thread title must be wrong. The hole itself is, in fact, made of of AIR.

01/12/2019 22:35:33
Posted by not done it yet on 01/12/2019 00:13:25:
Posted by andrew lyner on 30/11/2019 21:19:34
...
(I didn't get the balloon bit. Sorry)

That must be the subtle bit.smiley

Let me explain a bit more for you. Blow up a long sausage balloon. Now bend it into a circle and note the hole size. Now blow it up further but keeping the centre line the same. The hole will shrink. Alternatively blow it up just more than originally and bend it into a circle. The hole will be smaller if you use the same ‘centre line’ as previously.

Now blow up the other balloon inside the circle of the first until it almost touches the outer. Now blow it up some more.

@not done it yet: I get the picture now. Balloons are definitely not isotropic solids. They are kept inflated by the tension in the envelope balancing the internal pressure and Rubber definitely doesn't follow Hooke's law; it is very non linear when near its yield point so I reckon all bets are off when trying to analyse what would happen with your two balloons.

PS you would perhaps need a tube connecting the two air masses to balance out the pressure, I think.

Andrew

30/11/2019 23:26:39
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 30/11/2019 22:33:28:

I find the greater problem with Nylon is not cutting the thread , as long as that is fairly coarse, but drilling the tapping (or any-purpose) hole in it.

The steel drill-bit become hot and expands, so binds. The only solution really, is peck-drilling with a short time for the tool and plastic to cool between pecks (I leave the lathe running).

Twist-drills can also dig into the plastic if you are not careful, adding to the risk of binding.

It's amazing that such a soft substance could be so problematical. I have found that drilling a, say, 7mm hole direct, I suddenly get resistance against the cut as if the drill is pushing against something hard. Not at high speed and no 'hot smell'. A small pilot hole seems to help avoid the problem.

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