Here is a list of all the postings andrew lyner has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Cutting steel to size|
I located (locally) and bought a Clarke 4 1/2 inch bandsaw on eBay and, once I sorted out some lunatic mistakes the seller had made in originally assembling it out of the box, I am really impressed with what it does. It chews slowly but surely through all sorts of materials and leaves a terrific finish. As people have mentioned in other posts, you just leave it to get on with the job and it turns itself off when finished. Brilliant and only £127 !! (including a new spare blade)
A band saw. Yes, I was looking on eBay the other day and I'm waiting for one to turn up, locally. There will be the pr
m of where to put it in my tiny shed but a few things could go to the tip and we wouldn't miss them.
Most of the saws that are on sale are for wood, though. Grrr,
I love that magnetic clamp!!
An angle grinder could work for large radii and many / most discs would need a central hole. However, if I rough cut a circle - either by stitching or with many straight cuts, I still would need to clean up the edge which could tax the poor little mini. This is why I wanted to do it on the (replaceable and cheap) pillar drill.
I was even considering an auxiliary / temporary replacement drive to power the lathe at lower speeds (an extra motor to fit the spindle - extended) but that sort of approach can easily be open ended and demand more and more complication.
I haven't read any serious comment about the cheap and cheerful flying cutter idea. I don't want to chuck away my money, even if it's less than $10 so I though someone here would have tried it once and either rejected the idea or thought it worth while. The advantage would be that the resulting circumference would be pretty clean.
But I now have the disc I needed for this particular job so I will worry again next time round.
Thanks for the comments guys.
Since watching many YouTube videos, I have come to terms with the angle grinder as a potentially useful tool. I always cut outside on my work mate and the disc gives good straight cuts - better than my jigsaw. The shower of sparks go out onto the back lane and a file (or my small vertical mill table can give a good edge and square corners. No room for any more big tools.
but a grinder won’t do circles. The stitch drilling would do any size disc but cleaning up would be beyond my mini lathe lathe. The pillar drill is better for low speed torque - hence my quest for a cutter that will fit the drill. Is there a good ‘ring saw’ make?
I keep finding the need to cut discs out of 5mm steel (I bought a lot of 100mm square offcuts for pence and I am using them where I can).
I tried the circular cutters that come in a set. One was fine and I managed a 65mm diameter hole in some 6mm sheet (also from the offcuts place). I used plenty of cutting fluid and put my toy pillar drill on the minimum speed. It worked fine because I took ages and ages over the job. The 85mm version just wouldn't touch the steel, despite the oil and slow speed; annoying.
So I tried a 2mm HSS parting tool and it actually worked but it was at the limit of the mini lathe capabilities. The belt kept slipping and graunching and I imagine the spare will soon be needed. Not the best technique although it gave a result eventually.
I was wondering about trying one of those Adjustable Circle Cutters. Some have on blade and some seem to have two blades. But they are sooo cheap that I cannot believe they would do anything substantial.
Apart from the "I wouldn't;t start from here" answer, is there a way forward?
|Thread: The cheapest DRO ever?|
Edited By andrew lyner on 26/04/2019 18:03:15
Edited By andrew lyner on 26/04/2019 18:05:57
I found this video which, for me, is an almost free toe in the water for DRO on my mini lathe.
The overall accuracy is not that vital as I would always work to the vernier calliper in the end but this unit will save the 'counting' which I find to be a bind.
I have seen other videos from this guy and he is hardly a Cowboy - a fair amount of experience. I have done the suggested mod on the gauge itself and I'm waiting for a small cylinder magnet to arrive before actually fitting it.
I have read all the comments on the video and there are no surprises.
Just thought I'd pass it on for the benefit of the non wealthy new members of MEW. It may well be a repeat of information that already exists here but it could help someone.
|Thread: Thread locking|
I still have a large supply of lubricants but I have moved up in optical quality.
|Thread: Knurling Tool for Mini Lathe|
I ordered the eBay tool (scissor type) and it is quite heavy duty. It seems to have some lateral movement but, once the wheels have started to bite, it works fine (so far).
I still don't understand how the system works actually. The feed speed, the diameter of the piece and the pitch of the wheel lines all seem to 'cooperate' to give good diamonds. Is it to do with the lateral movement that the tool seems to allow?
I read one post on this forum that claimed the ratios had to be calculated first etc. etc. but others just pooh poohed the idea.
|Thread: Thread locking|
I decided to use simple locknuts and it seems they only need be done up finger tight to keep the bronze domes in contact. The clamp works a treat; very firm and stops the pieces from wobbling even under a heavy cutting load. Once I get the three screws set right, there is no serious movement but the pads just wear a shallow groove - no problem.
PS I really could have done with some of your gunk a few years ago when I had a zoom lens that would move itself whenever it was on a slope. My heaviest grease was no use at all!.
It was cheap and I threw it out, iirc.
|Thread: Quick Change tool post advice|
This is a bit of a necropost but it's still relevant and the problem of tools dipping down when they catch is always with me. It tends to go away when I nip up the Gibb strip but that's fiddly, too. Life improved a lot for general stability and chatter when I made up a Saddle Clamp and a similar screw-down of the compound to the cross slide could also help. I'd bet that others must have done something like that too. (There's not a lot of meat in that area though and I wouldn't want to affect the strength.
|Thread: Knurling Tool for Mini Lathe|
I decided to go for the eBay one. I'm sure it will be up to anything I want it to do. My Warco Lathe is doing very well but I still have trouble with getting a good finish. Still learning about sharpening tools correctly, though, so I put it all down to that. The quality of my knurling will probably be at least as good as the rest of my work.
Thanks for the views, chaps.
I just got back indoors from feeding the kangaroos and read this. Usual sloppy thing about filling in my profile but I do worry about the dangers of this new fangled internet. Risks and benefits, you know. Essex is where I live, since moving back from Wogga Wogga - I really miss those dingos.
That RGD tool in the link does look a bit flimsy and the ones on eBay here, look more substantial and a bit bigger. Has anyone tried one of those? The useful gap seems to be a bit under 40mm, which would be good if it's not too wobbly. It has the right size shank for me and there are extra wheels. The 50mm Warco one looks less substantial from the picture but someone mentioned the problem with relying on pictures.
Doncaster's a long way to go, I'm afraid. I may be demonstrating my dilettante attitude to the business but I was hoping to get the benefit of the experience of others from this very useful forum from the comfort of my office chair. I would travel a fair distance to spend a few hundred quid, though.
If only there were those shops around. It would take a day trip to visit any supplier that I know of. Cheaper just to buy blind.
I have made a few bits and bobs for my lathe but there are things I actually want to make with it and I can't be sure enough of my skills to be confident that what I made would be good enough. I could, of course, make it like a tank - as I do with most of my home made tools. No beauty pageant!!! And the materials would cost loadsamoney.
I realise that I need a clamp type knurling tool for a light weight Mini Lathe and I was wondering what people's experience has been of what's available. You can spend as little as £16ish from Axminster and over twice that from other sources.
I don't do 'heavy work' (well, you wouldn't, would you?) and would be unlikely to be knurling steel. Some names would be a great help. The Indian-made stuff I have bought really looks and feels pretty fair, in general and it would be good to have a UK distributor.
Edited By andrew lyner on 12/04/2019 23:01:47
|Thread: Old screwdrivers - any use as a materials source?|
That was a fun list of possibilities.
I had, of course, failed to spot how useful the plastic handle could be.
I realise this a 'how long is a piece of spring' question but I have a number of elderly screwdrivers and reviving pozidrive drivers is not easy (I expect).
So should I consider cracking off the handles and make them into punches and other tools? I guess they would need to be hardened and tempered when I have finished messing with them.
|Thread: Thread locking|
@Hopper That looks a nice and meaty piece of kit. I notice it seems to be split in two halves - i guess experience told you that flexibility of use would justify any compromise on strength. My version is much the same shape but uses 8mm plate and M8 nuts. I was thinking that just making the screws 'tighter' would be more convenient than actually locking them but comments from you and other members have convicted me otherwise. I haven't room to put locking nuts 'inside' the circle so I will just use longer screws and lock nuts.
Cheers for the ideas.
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