Here is a list of all the postings Mike Donnerstag has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Yet another 'which mill shall I buy'|
I've been considering the Sieg SX3 too. I understand that Machine DRO can supply the parts for the DRO, though as the mill is relatively easy to fit scales to (it has a square rather than angled base casting), they sell a 'universal kit' rather than one that is a custom fit. They recommended these to me: https://www.machine-dro.co.uk/dro-packages/universal-dro-packages/with-magnetic-encoders.html.
One advantage with the Sieg is the Z-axis handwheel being at a low level, rather than at the top of the column.
I'd much prefer a second-hand European-made machine, though I haven't found one that compares well to the Sieg, at least so far, as I'm looking for a milling machine with a quill head for drilling. For me, a Bridgeport or clone is far too bulky.
|Thread: Milling Machines - Myford vs Sieg|
I think I should have headed this post 'Which Mill/Drill for Under £2000?'.
I can see the benefit of having a variable speed control, as on the Sieg, though its reliability worries me. Has anyone else had problems with the motor control boards?
|Thread: Polishing Acetal/Delrin and other plastics|
Many thanks to everyone for all your help and advice.
Just for interest, I ended up putting a bar of 3/8" mild steel in the toolpost to use as a tool rest and hand turning the acetal with a 1/4" woodturning spindle gouge, with the bevel rubbing. The surface ended up polished, albeit very slightly ridged. I was happy with this - far better than the bare bolts I used to open the two side covers on the Myford lathe previously!
I will try the 'flame polishing' technique though, next time I turn acetal.
Once again, many thanks,
Many thanks Ian. Just the advice I needed. I’ll give it a try.
Can anyone tell me the best way to polish plastics such as acetal once hand-turned in the lathe? I'm just turning some knobs for the Myford lathe.
|Thread: Milling Machines - Myford vs Sieg|
Thanks for your replies.
Paul: Did you find out why the speed controller failed? I understand it can fail if the emergency stop switch is always used to stop the motor instead of the normal stop.
Alan: I understand the VMB came with a 370W (1/2HP) motor. Do you know the power of the three phase motor installed on your machine? I'm wondering whether this is a hindrance compared to a machine like the Sieg, and whether it could or should be upgraded considering the rest of the machine.
I am looking into purchasing a milling machine and noticed a Myford VMB machine for sale. However, other than the information given on lathes.co.uk I can't find much information on the machine. Does anyone have a manual for the Myford VMB in a form that could be emailed? Alternatively, does anyone know the capabilities in terms of maximum drill size, etc., for the VMB?
Also, I would be very interested to hear any views on how it might compare to a new Sieg SX3 as they are similarly priced. Obviously the variable speed on the Sieg is an advantage in terms of convenience, but does it have the low-end torque of a belt-drive speed-change machine such as the Myford VMB? Is the electronic speed control of the Sieg something that may be a weak point in the future?
Many thanks in advance,
|Thread: Any other bowmakers on here?|
I wondered whether anyone in the Lincoln area might be going to Midlands Model Engineering Exhibition at the Warwickshire Event centres this weekend and perhaps fancied doing a car share?
|Thread: Myford Vice for Vertical Slide|
If any of you were to buy a machine vice for the Myford milling slide from ArcEuro (I have a 10% discount code), which one and what size would you buy?
|Thread: Knurling wheels (for the Hemingway Sensitive Knurling Tool)|
It’s a good idea, but a 45deg diagonal rotated 180deg is still (the equivalent of) a 45deg diagonal.
It’s like looking at the following upside down:
I recently made the Hemingway Sensitive Knurling Tool, which is designed around knurling wheels that are 5/8" diameter and 3/16" thick with a 1/4" bore.
I picked up a pair of Jones & Shipman diagonal-knurl wheels from eBay recently, which I had assumed would give me a diamond pattern knurl. Unfortunately it was only after receiving them that I realised that both of the wheels were diagonal in the same direction, resulting in a knurl that simply looks like a multi-start thread!
My question are as follows:
Q: Would anyone need or want a knurl like this on a part?
Q: Can I obtain a single Jones & Shipman knurl of the opposite direction? If so, can anyone suggest a supplier?
|Thread: Myford ML7 tailstock bore, and threading the barrel to fit a chuck|
Bill: That's a good idea, though most woodturning chucks don't tend to come with jaws that are able to grip an octagon (bow sticks are octagonal - another problem to overcome!). I've actually been woodturning for many years and have a similar chuck (the old Multistar Titan), but the accuracy is questionable. They also tend to be large (mine is smaller than most, at 3".
Many thanks for your message Cornish Jack, but yes I'm afraid you missed something, or more likely I didn't explain very well. I'm using an ML7 tailstock as I need to pass the bow stick all the way through. Using a morse taper chuck carrier as you suggested means that the benefit of the hollow tailstock is lost. It's not an easy problem to solve but I think I'm slowly getting somewhere...
I've purchased an ML7 tailstock (£74 for a Mk2 from eBay) and a tailstock lever (cheapest was £92 from eBay) that will be needed instead of the normal rotating handle. I've worked out, based on the worst case, a cello bow, that the maximum length of the fixture from chuck jaw to the end of the barrel is 250mm. To make this work I think I'll need to do the following:
The objective is to result in a fixture that I can easily and accurately remove and reattach to the bed whenever necessary, without any wasted settting-up time. I will need a minimum of 20mm of travel on the barrel, which is significantly less than the original (approx.) 80mm.
Edited By Mike Donnerstag on 23/08/2019 18:46:23
What do people think about boring the back of a small four-jaw chuck to fit onto the tailstock barrel, and fitting grub screws to lock it, and possibly adjust the concentricity? That would save some length otherwise taken by a backplate. Keeping the assembly as short as possible reduces the amount of bend in the violin bow that the barrel would need to accommodate.
To this end, would it be possible to machine the jaws of a chuck to reduce the protrusion? How hard are chuck jaws? The chuck I was thinking about is the 60mm Indian chuck supplied by Arc Euro:
Does anyone know of an alternative, ideally shorter, self-centring 4-jaw chuck?
Once again, any help gratefully received!
|Thread: Meddings Driltru Handwheel (Star Wheel) Stiff|
Just for interest, I reamed the bush very lightly from both sides, polished the spindle (it was lightly scored) and reassembled. This improved the problem. Once the weather had cooled down, the problem went away altogether, which definitely points to the fact that the nylon bush is tightening onto the spindle when the weather is hot.
I hope that helps anyone with a similar problem.
Bikepete: Did this work without creating too much play?
|Thread: Meddings pillar drill problem|
I have the same problem with my Meddings Driltru. Having dismantled the quill, etc., the tightness is definitely due to friction from the plastic bush on the activating gear shaft.
Roger: Did you find a solution to this?
Edited By Mike Donnerstag on 25/07/2019 17:53:43
|Thread: Meddings Driltru Handwheel (Star Wheel) Stiff|
I have a Meddings Driltru floor-standing pillar drill. I've noticed that the quill becomes more difficult to move when the weather is hot (such as today!). As I do a lot of work with small drills, this is causing a problem!
Having removed the handwheel, spring and shaft, as well as the quill assembly, I found that the problem is the plastic (nylon?) bush that the handwheel shaft runs through. I have removed the 2BA grub screw under the bush that, I assume, sets the tightness of the bush on the shaft.
In the parts diagram, the plastic bush is labelled 15 - Activating Gear Bush, and the shaft is labelled 13 - Activating Gear and Shaft Sub-Assembly.
My question is, what can I do to make the shaft run smoothly? The shaft is 5/8" in diameter. Should I run a 5/8" reamer down the bush?
|Thread: Solving Engineering Mistakes|
I knew you fellas wouldn't let me down!
AdrianR: Why didn't I think about reducing the overall thickness of the side piece, and thereby reducing the over-milled step? That's exactly what I'm going to do, so many thanks! That way I'm not affecting any of the other (correctly sized) components. If anything goes wrong, I'll just re-make that side piece. (Did I say 'just'??)
The side piece that is a close fit supports the knurling tool when it traverses towards the headstock, it's only when it traverses towards the tailstock that it is not so well supported, due to the over-milled side piece.
Anyway, there are some great tips here. All the books explain how things 'should be done', but the real skill seems to be in solving or at least working around these mistakes. It reminds me of articles I've read in Fine Woodworking in the past on how to solve common woodworking mistakes. (Neil: I have the PDF articles if you're interested, though I realise of course that metal is a very different material to wood. It helps that a glued wood joint, if done well, is as strong, if not stronger, than the wood itself.)
Once again, many thanks!
One idea was to sweat a thin piece of mild steel onto the piece using silver solder, or perhaps even 'glue' a piece on using loctite? I assume that 20thou isn't a thick enough piece to hold in place using any kind of countersunk screw. Ideally, the solution would not show on the outside of the tool.
John: The knurling tool seems to work okay, traversing in both directions without excessive play in the arms, so you may well be right that I can leave it 'as is'. As the tool is near to being finished, it's too late to change the dimensions of any other pieces. If I were to use a brass washer or thin sheet, how should I fix it to the component?
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