Member postings for David K

Cup Alloys , sorry to butt in on this thread but when I click the link for your

HT5 Kit all I get is a Internal Server Error.

Thanks Jason .

Cup Alloys , had an interesting read on your site and could do with some silver solder.

Would the low temp 455 be ok for this job , thanks

Correction fluid Tippex ? do you use this to stop the flux spreading around the joint.

I need to make some unions like the ones pictured below.

They are for 1/8 copper pipe and I would like a neat join with

minimal solder showing.

I was thinking whether to use solder paste in a syringe rather than the

rod which I am used too .

Thanks for the replies ,

I need to make a thrust bearing for my model engine.

The plans state using mild steel for the races and case hardening after machining.

My question is , can a use silver steel and then heat treat it afterwards.

Reason I ask is that I have some silver steel in stock.

Made a jig to hold the stubs ready for Silver solder

Then soldered in the bottom plate ,

I soak in citric acid and then polish

Inlet manifold , started with a piece of solid stainless

Machined the shape out on the mill

Turned the inlet stubs

Then finished them on the mill

Turned some valve guides

I turned the valves a section at a time to help minimise flex in the material

Once complete a fine skim and polish before parting off

Valves complete with collets and caps , springs were bought items.

That's ace Jason, always someone who goes one better.

Hi Clive ,, yes your correct , I have just checked my oil pump and they are 9T Gears.

Bought my gears from HPC Gears 

Edited By David K on 08/03/2020 19:45:24

Hi Clive, I have not got the advantage of using CAD, I will learn one day , so I just tend to trust the drawing and get on with it. The length of the valves gave me a problem , I had to make some more about 2 tenths longer.

Already bought the oil pump gears and fitted them , seemed ok and camshaft is made and fitted.

I have not written down any errors , nothing major just a couple of figures written down with the decimal point in the wrong place ie. 0.12 instead of 0.012 .

Removing more material to form the top shape

Tapping the plug holes, the digital gauge has proved very useful since I purchased it.

Finished Cyl head , I made five so one spare.

Cut some alloy blanks for the Cyl heads

Turned the combustion chambers on the lathe then moved to the mill to drill and cut the valve seats.

Cutting the fins was more problematic than the barrels, I found it better to use no fluid and to cut in the same direction as the saw , 'climb cutting'

Hi JA, Just looked at the date on my first pictures and it seems I have been working on this for just over a year.

Must admit I did not think it was this long but I do tend to make one part or so then take a break.

I believe the castings were made by a ' Les Chenery' , I know there are a few around but rarely come up for sale.

The castings are good , a few small 'blow holes' have appeared but nothing to cause problems. I have tapped a lot of small threads into the casting and they seem to be holding up so they must be pretty good..

Drawings are very good , a few decimal points on the dimensions have been in the wrong place and there are a couple of mistakes but so far the build is going well.

The castings were quite solid and I have removed a lot of material from them , the only place were the material has got a bit thin is the side wall next to the camshaft bearings and cam followers. If I could start again I would move the crankshaft a few thou over to one side which intern would give a bit more camshaft clearance.

Hi , that piece of Alloy I used was in fact an older jig I had lying around from a previous build.

I had cut the four slots so it compressed slightly on my four jaw chuck in my lathe.

As for the gear , all you need to do is turn a recess slightly smaller diameter than the gear and then tap the gear in with a soft mallet. The steel gear will slightly cut into the alloy as its tapped in and this is enough to hold it tight.

Remember to bore a hole through the centre of the jig so you can drift the gear out when finished.

Parting off some piston rings from cast iron

Made a small oven to set the ring gap

Heat to cherry red

rings before fitting into cylinders and adjusting ring gap

Turning the pistons

Milling the cut outs and reaming the gudgeon pin hole

Conrods basic shape

forming the rods on rotary table

Finished rods

Boring the cylinders

Finished cylinders