Here is a list of all the postings Vidar has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lathe and big machines | help needed in finding them a new home|
The Schaublin lathes are certainly popular and valuable. How valuable depends on condition and included accessories. You might want to take some more pictures of those. (The Schaublin 70 might have an audience among watchmakers too).
The Denford seems to be computer controlled. I've seen pricing for that all over the place. Pictures of accessories would again be helpful - sometimes they cost more than the actual machine.
|Thread: Best Milling Machine Ever????|
For me the one I got is a lot better than all the ones I don't have.
That aside, a nice little Deckel would be a welcome supplement to the shop.
|Thread: TE winter storage|
I've had to keep some large shiny cast iron items outside for years where they were exposed to all the climate has to offer - rain, snow, ice. Oil and various protective spraybox covers failed - they tend to get washed off leaving unprotected spots or areas. After spending lots of time and money on applying such products I gave up on that. I then raided the foodstore and bought plenty of what google translate claims is "lard" in English. Basically acid-free fat.
I melted it and brushed it on in several thick layers (it hardens as you brush it on cold metal so very easy to apply). That basically made an all covering acid free water and oxygen proof cover that was very effective at keeping rust away. It worked for years outside - when removed the cast iron was still shiny.
I figured a general tarp would help preserve the fat layer so I had that on too. That strategy had to be improved to a new tarp with some centimeters distance off the surfaces: The first tarp, fat layer and cast iron setup were all viciously attacked by large flocks of tiny birds with increasingly flat beakers. (I admit that was a surprise I didn't see coming!).
Edited By Vidar on 26/01/2020 17:07:26
|Thread: vice thread efficiency|
If it is a vice screw it can't be very efficient as that would not work for a vice. If it was more than about 50% efficient it would just backdrive instead of keeping something clamped.
So less than 50%, and probably not even close to that as vice manufactureres likely wanted to be able to work up pressure and keep things stuck.
|Thread: Shaper in action|
He might be taking it one step further? Making scale models with scale tools...
|Thread: Any real risks corrosion etc combining aluminium and steel|
Even moisture and salt is fine if there is lot of surface of the anode (aluminium) and little surface of the cathode (stainless). Some tiny damage distributed over a large surface has no practical impact.
Relative surface areas are important: A little bit of stainless steel (fasteners etc) in larger parts of aluminium is usually fine and quite common in marine settings. The other way around though, a little aluminium in large stainless parts, would not work.
Edited By Vidar on 28/12/2019 14:42:02
I got a work computer running Windows 7 but with a twist as it boots from a virtual hard drive. In practice the OS boots from a single big file that presents itself as the C drive to the OS. Thus the entire setup with OS and installed programs can be backed up (and restored) just by copying or replacing said big file.
It was done that way as a way to secure quick restore in case of virus, breaking updates or later installs gone sideways. That is some years ago now, and it is still very stable.
Over time though new programs, drivers and updates might not work with such an old OS, but the machine should work for the current tasks and setup until some physical part fails.
Edited By Vidar on 22/12/2019 19:19:34
|Thread: Run outs|
It is kind of hard to say if it is good enough as that varies with the application and tool.
Try doing some of planned the work operations with the setup? If the results you get are at the precision and quality levels you need, and tool life is acceptable, then no problem?
If you just want a number I believe the industrial milling ER holders I got are rated at around half or one-third of that. Then again I also use Weldon tool holders and Jacob chucks which are likely worse - they still work fine for their respective use .
|Thread: Tool steel - Beginners guide ?|
(Stainless steel are generally tougher than carbon steels. That is not the same property as them being stronger though. As for strong there is a wide range of stainless with typical A2 and A4 is on the weaker end of the scale. The opposite end of the scale has stainless which is stronger than 12.9 with around 1500Mpa stainless vs about 1100Mpa for 12.9).
Practically speaking here though A2 or A4 stainless are generally weaker than hardened steels.
Tool steels are made with a wide range of properties catering to specific purposes in machining or manufacturing - ie steels for the tools that are used to make other stuff. (Including making hand tools). Some might be great for your purpose, others might have optimized properties for say high temperature, toughness or long term abrasion instead).
I think a 12.9 bolt or a hex key made into the required square shape will be more than up to the task.
(As a sidenote 17-4PH stainless steel is very friendly to harden, and would be up there with 12.9 in strength. It can be hard to find though).
Edited By Vidar on 09/12/2019 12:38:59
Not sure if you want a project or an actual lathe key chuck, but searching "Lathe Chuck Key 7mm" found quite a few suppliers online. Here is one in the UK. **LINK**
|Thread: Parallel Pliers|
The jaws on that one doesn't seem to have parallel action though? It can be adjusted to parallel, but the jaws aren't moving in parallel.
Fun piece though! There are some modern equivalents which are combinations of an adjustable spanner and a plier.
|Thread: which lathe?|
Now I feel this really weird urge to try and make oil filled bearings. Or maybe sliding surfaces. I feel another totally counterproductive project coming on. Better call the wife asap so she can tell me No! with conviction and force. (She is good at that! )
|Thread: M503 comand query|
Yes, that's the one. It does work on my printer, so I guess our milages vary. The check for under extrusion remains the same either way.
I can't really remember having to go into G-code at all. I leave it to Simplify and Cura to translate whatever settings I got to suitable G-code. (That said one time Simplify did an upgrade the upgrade made a mess of it - it worked fine before).
|Thread: which lathe?|
That one seems quite special Jamie. I can see why you're willing to spend time and money on it.
|Thread: Parallel Pliers|
Somehow I find that weirdly comforting.
Would you by any chance also refer to your pet excavator as a she?
Have you tried them?
Spanners are stronger, fair enough, but the point is that with 10:1 compound action the Knipex pliers are strong enough so it isn't an issue. Further they are self-locking on a nut in one direction, so one can actually discuss if your grip strength is really used much at all. I have most of their sizes, and I have used them for everything from tiny electronics nuts to big nuts on a 13 ton excavator. I can't remember a single gripping issue, nor do I have to grip very hard.
If there is space enough I much prefer them over spanners: They grip perfectly, each cover a wide range of size so less to carry around, and for most of their grip range they will do a ratcheting action to speed things up. For nuts and surfaces that should stay prestine the grip also gives less chance of maiming compared to a spanner.
Edited By Vidar on 28/11/2019 21:45:12
|Thread: M503 comand query|
It has been sometime since I used Simplify3D, but if I remember correctly there is an easy access setting to adjust or increase the percentage amount of extruded material. (Something along normal being 100 and adjust from there).
If you print a single flat layer will it end up as a plate with good adhesion? If so the extrusion is probably about right, and the issue might be too big steps between layers and too little overlap towards the perimeter. If a single flat layer does not turn out ok and you get gaps and stringiness then under extrusion seems likely. Other sources of bad adhesion might wrong temperature, wrong 0 height or levelling, bad filament..
|Thread: Recommend a Small Parts Lathe for £2k.|
Is that budget including the various other accessories and tooling you will typically need?
One of the main benefits of getting something used is that there is often lots of accessories and tooling coming along with it. The value of that can be similar to or exceed the value of the machine.
It is also a question about how much time you got. Waiting for the right good condition old machine can take time.
Edit: Ah, you posted the tooling as you as I was typing this
Edited By Vidar on 28/11/2019 14:03:37
|Thread: which lathe?|
So what are the measurements of these things? (And how precise can you measure? It is hard to make thing more precise than you can measure, so a possible bottle neck there too).
Is the shaft worn too, or is that still a standard size? Maybe just exchange the entire thing with a modern off the shelf housing and bolt onto a custom plate made to fit?
Precision is a very deep rabbit hole indeed. What level of precision does this application actually need/ benefit from?
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