Here is a list of all the postings Paul M has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hermes Parcels|
Not had any major problems with Hermes as the same lady drops off and is very reliable. Had two occasions where DPD packages had been pilfered. They were milling cutters and the packages had been torn with one of the items taken. Interestingly the photos taken by the delivery drivers showed the tear. The company I purchased from were ok about a replacement. I just wonder how much more we pay for products so companies can cover the cost of fraud in general.
|Thread: Social Distancing|
The only person I ever take note of with regard to Covid-19.
|Thread: Wheel out of true|
I appreciate your advice. I have realised too late the possible problems with drilling and reaming especially into cast iron.
I am building a 31/2" Lifford Hall loco. I fear I have somehow managed to get one of the driving wheels running out of true. I machined the axles between centres and used loctite to secure the wheel. There now appears to be about 14thou sideways (lateral) movement on wheel at the outer edge. The tread is concentric to the axle. I fear I may have not gone through square with the reamer as I did suspect a bit of lateral movement before loctiting but assumed it was the clearance between the wheel and axle prior to fixing.
What puzzles me is that I used a jig set in lathe to machine each wheel.
I really don't want to start another wheel so am looking for suggestions/advice on the way forward. My initial thought was to drill out the axle and somehow set the wheel up and bore out a few thou remake the axle and hope.
Things were going well up to this point!!
|Thread: Inlaying silver in brass.|
The technical term for what you want to do is damascening. In my days of making jewellery etc, I inlayed steel, brass and silver. The general rule of thumb was to make sure the inlay was a softer metal than the base. When you say bash I assume you will use a hammer which is probably not the best way. Make steel punches with a splayed end a rounded one, without any sharp corners. Having undercut your grooves again with a shop made tool or in your case an engraving tool you should be able to inlay the silver working around with a punch to work the metal into the groove. You need to make sure the gauge of the wire is a little over the width of the slot. If it is too large you will have issues with the metal work hardening and obviously if it is too small in diameter, it will never work into the undercut of the groove. I think the essential thing is to have punches to do the inlay as a hammer will not give you the control.
I am sure you will find a demo on youTube.
|Thread: Slip gauges - dealing with patches of rust|
I have just been given a set of imperial slip gauges that have been sitting in a garage for some years. A number of the gauges are slightly pitted with rust.
Any suggestions for getting the gauges back to a state where I can at least use them for setting and testing measurements accepting they may not be good enough to be part of a stack.
|Thread: Encryption software|
I use 1Password which generates and stores passwords. I only need to remember the master password.
It is not whether you use a password manager or use paper copies, it's how you create your password. Using words and numbers alone such as Loco265 is not very secure as computers these days can run through a dictionary of words in a fraction of a second and try billions of combinations.
If you are going to use words then a password such as nuthatch-bereave-selfsame-laos is more advisable.
This video is worth a look.
|Thread: High blood pressure !|
Was put on Ramapril some years ago as doctor was concerned about my blood pressure (stressful occupation).
After having a knee operation I had to go to the gym to exercise and strengthen my leg muscles.
In my case I am sure it was life style. Lack of exercise and a stressful job. What has changed ? I exercise at a gym and by walking my dog, not getting stressed, keeping my weight down and most importantly relaxing in my workshop building my first steam engine.
If my blood pressure starts to creep up again I will consider taking pills again.
|Thread: Moving a Sieg SX3 Mill|
I tried to transport a Warco WM16 milling machine some time ago. I have a hatchback, but found it impossible to safely move it in one piece with an engine hoist and then load it.
I stripped it down removing the head, column and table and even then had to use a few helping hands to put it into the car. It is still very heavy even stripped down.
If I were to do it again I would hire a trailer or find someone with a flatbed truck.
What makes things worse is the fact you have to get it all out when you get home.
Good luck and be careful of your back.
|Thread: Can we have a really clear distinction between Silver Soldering and Brazing|
I have never really bothered too much with the detail. As far as I'm concerned, if it's a silver alloy it's silver soldering and if a brass alloy it's brazing.
Having made many 100's of items of jewellery over the years I have used all the grades a silver solder on silver, gilding metal, Nickel silver, brass and copper etc.
For steel I have always generally brazed (a term I have used for 50 years). If I use silver silver solder on steel it's silver soldering.
Everyone at my work used a brazing torch for both brazing and silver soldering. We all knew what we were doing and never had any discussions about the correct terminology.
Works for me.
|Thread: New legislation that could affect us all.|
I am still in discussion with my employer regarding, which newspaper and the size of the squares, and whether to use string or nylon cord. No British Standards seem to have been published.
|Thread: Scam alert|
I agree that scam phone calls are a major nuisance. My latest one - "this call is about your life insurance policy sir". My standard reply is to ask for their full name, phone number and address they are calling from. They always terminate the call.
Regarding Amazon Prime, I have subscribed for a few years now. I use Prime TV a lot. It has some good programmes not available on terrestrial TV channels. Next day delivery is handy although you can get items slightly cheaper without Prime. My wife, who has her account, found herself with the 30 day trail offer recently. It is a pain sifting through he links to cancel but it can be done. My advice is to Google how to cancel amazon Prime if you get lost in the maze.
|Thread: Warco WM 250 problem?|
I have a WM250 and the Warco stand. I used a length of hefty rectangular tube at each end of the stand with adjustable feet to level the lathe. The tube is wider than the base of the stand for extra stability. I find the lathe does vibrate somewhat when turning offset work and have to run the lathe slowly or carefully counterbalance the setup.
Looking at the mounting positions for the lathe, there are three inline, two at the headstock and one at the tailstock end. I am not convinced the base of the carriage and headstock are perfectly flat as It is quite easy to wobble the lathe. This appears to be only partly due to the thickness of the top of the stand. My intension in the near future, is to look at ways in which to modify the mounts and add something more robust to the top of the stands.
|Thread: Stephensons Valve Gear|
Many thanks to all who have posted such informative and helpful responses on this topic.
It has certainly given me plenty of help and steered me in the right direction.
I am building a 3 1/2" loco to a LBSC design. As a novice I have to do a lot of research to find out appropriate materials for constructing the loco ,as the drawings supplied by Reeves, have no reference to materials.
I am about to start work on the Stevensons valve gear and would appreciate some guidance regarding materials selection or the best reference books to help.
|Thread: WM 280V lathe with inverter drive advice|
I have the WM250VF. I had an electrical issue from the start which with the help of Warco was easily fixed.
The lathe is acceptable for the price and origin! I don't tend to do heavy cuts as the machine will struggle. It's useful having auto crossfeed although I did once forget to remove an Allen key that locked the carriage and bent one of the crosslide adjusters. I have DRO fitted which does limit the tailstock travel and gets in the way of the cross slide locking bolt. Well worth the limitations though.
I purchased the stands which I regret. The lathe never feels rigid and the slightest offset will result in vibration. This may be as a result of fitting feet rather than bolting the stand to the floor. One day I may try to change to bolting it down.
If you do a lot of screw cutting, I would consider a model with a gear head.
|Thread: At last - no more chattering when parting off!|
Should have a health warning prior to the clip.
I find it amusing when buying goods with cash when the sales assistant cannot work out change without the use of the electronic til or calculator. It would seem that mental arithmetic is beyond them. Is this a sign of being lazy or poor basic education? How would they have got on with pounds, shillings and pence?
I remember at infant school we had to recite our times tables every day, and had mental arithmetic tests every Friday afternoon. A good grounding in my opinion.
As for units of measurement, I prefer base 12 to base 10. Might be because I like to work with fractions. Half of ½ is ¼ etc.
To sum up this country, in my town you can find direction signs for pedestrians that make me laugh. Any distance less than a mile is in metres and any distance above a mile is in miles.
|Thread: Hints and tips for cutting small(ish) male threads with a die|
I recently had a similar problem trying to cut M3 and 5BA threads with a die. I used the tailstock barrel to butt the holder up to the work as I have done many times. The resulting threads were way off and binned.
The problem seemed to be with the 3 jaw chuck and the material not running concentrically.
I turned part of a length of ¼" bar to 3mm diameter in the same chuck and then cut perfect threads.
Serves me right for being lazy and not fitting my collet chuck!
|Thread: Tracy Tools|
I could say the same for a number of companies. Ordered a set of cast wheels form A J Reeves about 12.00 on Thursday and they arrived the following day by 10.00am.
Speed of delivery depends very much on the postage you pay.
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