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Member postings for Ron Laden

Here is a list of all the postings Ron Laden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
07/03/2021 13:05:37

Funny you should say that Jason as someone else told me not to weather it. I am a fan of weathered loco,s though they are not to everyone's taste. In fact I could count on one hand the number I have seen on club tracks and only one of those was fully weathered.

I could also be a fan of weathered/aged stationary engines smileyhaving seen you Heinrici I thought that was excellent how you achieved that.

07/03/2021 09:48:08

Getting there, quite pleased with how it's starting to look.

img_20210307_092307.jpg

Thread: SX2P Gas Strut Modification Issue?
05/03/2021 10:04:30

Is it not as simple as needing a new rack and pinion, if you have shimmed the rack and it still had backlash surely it must point to pinion being a bad fit to the rack. Is the pinion secure to its shaft, I have never had mine apart so don't know how it's engineered.

I went with 120N on my strut only because at the time of fitting I read somewhere that 150N is a bit too strong (don't know what that was based on) so with my 120N my head is heavy re balance.

Never had the sticking issue fortunately it's as smooth as you want it though a bit heavier upwards but not arm aching so. I agree with Jason to my simple brain I would have thought the head needs to sit heavy not equally balanced especially with the amount of backlash you have in the rack.

Just a thought straight off the top of my head but if the pinion is a bad fit in the rack and you shimmed the rack until it felt rough but still had backlash then I would have thought the tips of the pinion teeth are bottoming out but leaving gaps between the sides/mating faces of the teeth. I can't see where else the backlash could come from. If that is the case I would be tempted to reduce the o/d of the tips so the pinion sits deeper and mates with the rack The rack would need shimming again of course to make up the difference.

I could of course be wrong but with your explanation of the shimming and still having backlash that's what I imagined must be happening.

05/03/2021 07:19:38

Just save me wading back through every post I keep seeing the mention of "sticking" are you saying that the head actually sticks to the column..?

Thread: Home Made Rear Toolpost Issue
05/03/2021 07:04:35

The base plate on my tool post has 4 dowel pins which locate in the two T slots for alignment on the cross slide. I always sandwhich a piece of 10mm square tool steel between the parting blade and the face of the chuck as a quick check that the blade and holder is sitting square.

Edited By Ron Laden on 05/03/2021 07:08:40

Edited By Ron Laden on 05/03/2021 07:09:52

03/03/2021 13:48:18

Well the clamp will help obviously help but since you have fitted the T nut and milled the key have you not tried parting to see how it performs..?

Edited By Ron Laden on 03/03/2021 13:50:18

Thread: SX2P Gas Strut Modification Issue?
03/03/2021 12:56:54
Posted by Zebethyal on 03/03/2021 11:53:34:
Posted by Ron Laden on 03/03/2021 11:16:36:
Posted by Zebethyal on 03/03/2021 10:45:44:

I watched your video and then went out and checked my SX2 as I was concerned that my mill may be suffering the same as yours and I simply hadn't noticed it.

I have a 150N (15Kg) gas spring and wherever I position the head, it will sit there with no pressure on the gib lock, head weight (15Kg) and spring pressure equal each other out, upwards or downwards movement, from any location, require equal degrees of effort.

If I engage the fine feed, then there is about half a turn of worm backlash, but once that has been taken up I cannot move the head either up or down.

I perform milling operations with the Z axis locked, boring operations with the fine feed and some drag on the gib lock and drilling operations with the gib lock loose. Any machining issues I may have had have always been down to incorrect feeds and speeds rather than any movement in the mill.

I believe based on your newer motor that your head weighs the same as mine and therefore a 150N gas spring is the correct size, also gas springs offer a constant level of resistance, across their entire range of travel, in either direction (unlike the original spring).

The issue on your mill appears to be with the relationship between the rack and the worm.

"therefore 150N gas spring is the correct size"

Is it..? I fitted my SX2 with a 120N it is equally balanced and I have never had any machining issues with it.

Edited By Ron Laden on 03/03/2021 11:18:06

'within the acceptable range' then.

There were comments that the OP should use a 120N spring instead of a 150N, someone else (with an older heavier motor) is using 2 x 100N, so there is obviously a fairly wide range that works, in which case multiple individuals are equally amiss claiming/implying that their spring force may be the 'correct' one, potentially yourself included.

​​​​Just to be clear I didn't claim 120N is the correct size, it is for my machine but I made no suggestion it was the size others should be using. To be fair it was you that said 150N is the "correct" size.

Regardless of spring force used, the root cause, as just stated by the OP, is with the rack/pinion interaction, something I do not appear to be experiencing on my mill. Maybe I have slightly better engagement between my rack and pinion - would a new pinion gear possibly reduce/remove the issue?

 

Edited By Ron Laden on 03/03/2021 12:58:12

03/03/2021 11:16:36
Posted by Zebethyal on 03/03/2021 10:45:44:

I watched your video and then went out and checked my SX2 as I was concerned that my mill may be suffering the same as yours and I simply hadn't noticed it.

I have a 150N (15Kg) gas spring and wherever I position the head, it will sit there with no pressure on the gib lock, head weight (15Kg) and spring pressure equal each other out, upwards or downwards movement, from any location, require equal degrees of effort.

If I engage the fine feed, then there is about half a turn of worm backlash, but once that has been taken up I cannot move the head either up or down.

I perform milling operations with the Z axis locked, boring operations with the fine feed and some drag on the gib lock and drilling operations with the gib lock loose. Any machining issues I may have had have always been down to incorrect feeds and speeds rather than any movement in the mill.

I believe based on your newer motor that your head weighs the same as mine and therefore a 150N gas spring is the correct size, also gas springs offer a constant level of resistance, across their entire range of travel, in either direction (unlike the original spring).

The issue on your mill appears to be with the relationship between the rack and the worm.

"therefore 150N gas spring is the correct size"

Is it..? I fitted my SX2 with a 120N it is equally balanced and I have never had any machining issues with it.

Edited By Ron Laden on 03/03/2021 11:18:06

Thread: Home Made Rear Toolpost Issue
03/03/2021 08:15:37

I think adding the key and Loctite the stud to the T nut was the easiest option, should work well. Do you have a driven crosslide on your lathe if so that helps or at least it does on mine, you have a consistent feed and free hands for adding cutting oil etc.

02/03/2021 07:46:35

My rear tool post made not by me but the previous owner. He didn't go for a central vertical fixing but mounted it to a base plate which picks up on 4 Tee nuts. A tongue locates the post to the plate and is fixed from underneath. Fortunately my Tee slots run front to back which is handy as I can slide the post in and out. It works well, very rigid.

img_20210302_072933.jpg

Edited By Ron Laden on 02/03/2021 07:48:27

Edited By Ron Laden on 02/03/2021 08:06:54

Thread: Bearing puller
01/03/2021 06:54:15

I have an inexpensive set of 3 which came with a small, medium and large puller, no its not the best quality but it works fine. I couldn't see the point in buying an expensive puller when it's something I will seldom use, in fact I haven't used it in the last 2 years.

Thread: Carbide Tooling
01/03/2021 06:32:26

I use the ARC inserts and wouldn't call them "cheap end" by any means they are far better than the cheap ones I have tried and consider them to be mid price range.

I don't have problems with them chipping and with all due respect is it what you describe as your "cack-handedness" that's the problem. Would improving how they are been used give less problems and I can't see "spending a lot more money" is going to help. One would assume that top of the range expensive cutting tools would be better overall but I would hate to think I was spending 3 or 4 times as much and then pushing them too hard or outside what they are happy with.

Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
27/02/2021 19:20:18

I,ve had a change of mind re the weathering, I was going to go with a light scheme but I have decided to go with something heavier. I have a model of a quite heavily weathered Class 52 which is also in a Maroon scheme. Using some diluted roof dirt enamel I have given all the body a wash as a base, it has toned down the colour quite a bit which I can now add to.

img_20210227_142758.jpg

Edited By Ron Laden on 27/02/2021 19:24:04

Thread: Heinrici without Castings
27/02/2021 10:22:12

Well I would never have imagined that you learn something every day, obviously works very well as you have shown.

Thanks Jason

27/02/2021 08:08:02

Wow, I can see why it looks so good with that amount of effort and the techniques and methods used, impressive stuff.

As Craig mentioned you could show someone the engine and tell them it is years old and no one would doubt it.

I forgot to say its also a very sweet runner responds really well to a change in heat level, very good.

Mustard resist.??

Ron

26/02/2021 20:24:38

That really is superb Jason, that looks to be very well used and years old and none of it looks as if it has been added, it looks like genuine age and general wear and tear from years of use. For me what makes it work so well is that you have covered every part from top to bottom and not just odd bits here and there.

Can I ask how you did the chipped paint work and also the discoloured bare steel its so realistic.

Great stuff Jason, some excellent work there.

Ron

Thread: New mill vice which one
22/02/2021 04:56:03

I have the ARC Versatile 80mm vice and I can't fault it and at the price it represents great value for money. Like most I never use the swivel base so removed it which on the 80mm reduces the height by 30mm. I have not needed to do any deburing on mine I used it straight out of the box. I also went around it with a test indicator checking from both open to closed and it's as good as I will ever need.

No connection with ARC just a very satisfied customer.

Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
21/02/2021 12:59:00

Al the windows and screens fitted I used 2mm acrylic which I glued in with R/C Modellers Canopy Adhesive, first time I have used it but it's very good. Grabs hold in 3-4 minutes and dries crystal clear, should you have any that needs removing then a damp cloth shifts it completely with no residue. Another new to me product I, m about to use is Humbrol Maskol (liquid rubber like solution) for masking off the windows, apparently its very good.

So about to start weathering the body working from the roof down, airbrushing using some roof dirt paint and others then with the body on the chassis working the frame and bogie finishes into the lower body and blending in.

img_20210221_122705.jpg

Thread: Warco 180 mini lathe
18/02/2021 09:30:30

Hi Ken

I had the same fault on the mini lathe I had (not Warco)

It turned out to be a dirty speed control pot, I didn't have any circuit cleaner at the time so gave it a squirt of WD40 which did the trick. After working the pot back and forth a few times it came back to life and had full speed control. The pot has a slot at the base of the 3 connection tags, that's where to spray in the cleaner to get it inside.

Ron

Thread: You think you have trouble starting your car on a cold morning?
17/02/2021 12:59:06

I am surprised after switching on the start the driver got out of the cab and left it unattended, is that allowed..? I would have thought not but maybe it is.

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