By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Ron Laden

Here is a list of all the postings Ron Laden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Any plans for battery loco in 7 1/4" gauge?
21/07/2019 14:50:14
Posted by Thomas Staubo on 20/07/2019 20:31:38:

Thanks for the encouragement, Ron. And for the pictures.

It's interesting to see that you mounted the axle boxes directly in the frames!

What kind of bearings do you use?

I would like to have the wheels on the outside of the frame, and coupling rods. Would probably go for roller chains from the motor(s) to the axles.

With having coupling rods, I would only need chain to one axle (either one or two motors).

One question: If I build a 0-6-0, do I have to think about the middle axle binding if tight rail radius??

Thomas, I was at the club track this morning and a club member was there with a 0-6-0 loco and I noticed that the middle wheels had no flanges. I asked about it and apparently that was his way of preventing any binding on a tight radius, makes sense I can see that working.

Our track will have no less than 10m radius at the smallest.

Ron

21/07/2019 09:09:13
Posted by Thomas Staubo on 21/07/2019 00:00:44:

I'm pretty sure I will go for 7 1/4".

What size axle did you use?

My axles are for 5" of course but the main axle is 16mm stepped down to 12.5mm for the wheel and then down to 10mm for the axlebox bearing.

20/07/2019 21:33:09

Thomas,

The axles boxes directly mounted in the frames was just for simplicity and the axle box bearings are shouldered oilite,s.

I dont think you will have a problem with binding if your track is no smaller 10m radius, are you going with 7 1/4" or 5" with the electric loco.

Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
20/07/2019 21:13:01
Posted by Thomas Staubo on 20/07/2019 20:55:44:

Nice work!

What is the dimensions of the springs you are using?

8mm diameter x 25mm long.

Thread: Any plans for battery loco in 7 1/4" gauge?
20/07/2019 18:18:09

Hi Thomas,

Good to see another modeller going electric, there are a number of ways to build an electric chassis from very simple to quite involved, I,ve never looked for any plans so dont know what (if any) are available. I,m sure though you could quite easily design your own and as a first attempt it need not be complicated. Thats how I started with the 0-4-0 shunter, I thought most of it up as I went along and fortunately it worked.

The one thing I would suggest before you make a start is to consider what type of running you want to achieve, is it just pulling yourself and a couple of passengers or carrying more people on a couple of carriages for instance. This dictates how much power you will need and the physical size of the motor/motors and their fit into the chassis. Some may disagree but dont underestimate the power you will need. With the 0-4-0 I was told that 150 watts was plenty for me and two passengers and it probably would have worked but my gut feeling told me that it would have been at the bottom end. The 4 motors I went with totalled 260 watts and the loco will pull 5 adults (4 comfortably) with no issues in starting off, you can always throttle back of course but to be shy on power after spending all the time building the loco would be disappointing.

Some pictures below on how I went about designing the chassis but as I mentioned there are lots of ways of doing it this was just mine.

If I can help any further Thomas just ask but I am no expert by any means.

dsc05984_edited-1.jpg

dsc05995_edited-1.jpg

dsc06005_edited-1.jpg

Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
20/07/2019 09:13:52

Thanks Jeff.

Just out of interest or for anyone looking for heavier type compression springs for axle boxes and the like I,ve put up a picture showing what I go with. I use die springs, always buy them from China via Ebay, they are good quality and there is a huge range of sizes. They are cheap as chips always come with free postage and they are usually delivered within 7 days or less.

I dont know if Chinese manufacturers/suppliers always use the same colour code for the different strengths but I,ve had the same colour springs from different suppliers and they were identical. For my use I have rated them as Blue=Medium, Red=Med/Heavy. Green=Heavy and Brown=V. Heavy.

I will probably go with red on the class 22 based on the 0-4-0 working well with 4 red springs and a AUW of 25kgs. The 22 should weigh around 50 kgs but with 8 springs.

dsc06775.jpg

 

Edited By Ron Laden on 20/07/2019 09:25:11

Edited By Ron Laden on 20/07/2019 09:26:38

Thread: TTFN
20/07/2019 08:43:40

Enjoy your break Andrew, good to know you will be back though, the forum needs people like yourself and we will all be the better for it.

Regards

Ron

Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
20/07/2019 08:34:17

Thanks Thor, yes ABetterCompound is the one which mine is made to, though the external shape is different on mine.

Brian, worth considering if you are going to modify as it really is a rigid design.

Ron

19/07/2019 16:32:32

Hi Brian,

My mistake the compound mount is not a George Thomas design, that was some other parts on the lathe. The mount is Adam,s (the previous owner) version of a design that he found on the Yahoo 920 forum. I was going to have a look for it but for some reason despite my searching I cant find the Yahoo 920 Forum, I dont know if it still exists, I would have thought it did but I cant track it down.

Should anyone have a link to the forum it would be appreciated.

Ron

19/07/2019 08:39:10
Posted by Brian G on 18/07/2019 20:31:44:

Your clamp ring looks like it works in the same way as that shown here **LINK** with the bolts being released to turn the compound. It looks like Ron's doesn't work that way, as it would be difficult to access the cap screws in certain positions

Perhaps the two screws at the front press wedges against a conical stem, like a larger version of that on a Myford Super 7?

Brian

Hi Brian,

A picture below of the underside of the mount, you can see the top side in the video I posted. I dont want to take it apart as it is very well set up and adjusted.

I am not certain but I think it is based on a George Thomas design but with some tweaks by the lathes previous owner. I will be speaking with him later today I will try and find out more. You are correct in that the angled grub screws (2 front - 2 rear) lock the swivel via small pushrods with an angled face that contacts the radius. It works very well just a light nip on each grub locks the swivel solid.

Some of the mods on the lathe follow those done by Stephan Gotteswinter to his 920 style lathe. If you go to Youtube and search for "Stephan Gotteswinter Shoptalk #7 The 250 x 550 Lathe" you should find his video which runs through the mods he made....well worth a watch.

I will let you know if I find out more.

Ron

dsc06772.jpg

Edited By Ron Laden on 19/07/2019 08:40:53

Thread: TTFN
18/07/2019 17:32:33

Andrew, the forum will be a poorer place without you, you will be missed by many thats for sure. I for one will miss your help and answers to my often daft questions plus I have learnt a lot from your replies to other members threads.

I didnt realise that there is a size limit to the machinery we are supposed to use in model engineering, maybe someone could explain how you produce parts for a pair of large scale traction engines as you are with small hobby machines..?

I understand your decision but it really makes me mad that you have been made to feel like you do.

Best regards

Ron

Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
18/07/2019 10:22:03

The basic axlebox and spring mounts are done, they will need 25mm long springs which at their rating gives 3mm compression when all 8 boxes are loaded and a further 6mm of travel when running. I went with those dimensions/figures on the 0-4-0 and it works fine. The bearings are shouldered oilites, 10mm long which matches the length of the stub axles and conveniently leaves a recess for bearing caps which I will turn from aluminium.

dsc06769.jpg

Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
18/07/2019 09:15:51

Thanks guys,

Mike, yes I am lucky in that most of the mods/improvements people seem to carry out on the 918/920 have been done and they have been well engineered.

Re the head bearings, mine has flush fitting plastic caps both sides so I cant add any grease and I dont fancy trying to remove the caps. The bearings seem to be in good condition though so I,m not too worried at the moment.

Joe, thanks for the info re the collets.

Ron

Thread: Cheap Tipped Tool Set - Maybe not all bad..?
18/07/2019 08:46:25

I knew the grooving tool would come in at some point and its sooner than later, ideal in a tight space. Saved buying more oilites (£20) I modified some I already had. smiley

dsc06763.jpg

Thread: Yet another "parting off grief" thread ;)
17/07/2019 09:50:52

Ross,

I dont know if I,m correct but I think you have a Warco WM250 lathe, in which case it will have a T slotted cross slide which is ideal as you can fit a rear tool post. I can only base it on my experience with a 7 x 14 mini-lathe but the rear tool post I made and fitted transformed parting off from something I dreaded to something that was a pleasure to do with no worries.

I think Warco do a rear tool post and mounting plate but it may be sized for the WM280/290 so if you wanted one you would need to talk to them, I suspect it could be modified though to fit a WM250.

Its just a thought but as I say for me the rear post transformed parting off.

Ron

Thread: Cheap Tipped Tool Set - Maybe not all bad..?
16/07/2019 16:50:05

Yes they obviously do have their shortcomings and the carbide probably is of a poor quality but it was interesting to see if they would produce a half decent test piece and they certainly did that but they wouldnt be my cutting tools of choice.

As Neil suggests they may come in one day when there is something nasty to machine. The one tool I will keep handy though is the 3mm parting tool, not for parting but for grooving as that really did work very well.

Ron

16/07/2019 12:14:26

Last year when I started out and got my mini lathe it came with a set of carbide tipped tools. Not knowing any different at the time I thought great, I could start making swarf...but no.

The tools come shaped (and there are some strange shapes) but none are sharpened or at least mine were not. Some of you guys suggested I shelve them and get myself a decent set of HSS tools and/or blanks and cut my own which I did.

I had forgotten about the tipped set until yesterday when I came across them again. I wondered if some of them were given a good edge how good or bad they would be. I picked out one or two using the ones that were reasonably shaped though I had to change/improve some of the angles.

I put up a piece of free cutting steel as a test piece and gave them a try, I used the smaller of the two knife type on the spigot and the bit heavier version on the shoulder behind. The chamfer tool was a bit of a dogs dinner to start with (still is) but I got a good edge on it and used it between the shoulder and the spigot. The parting tool I used for cutting the groove and the parting off.

Well the tools worked ok, not the very best of finishes but not too bad at all, I was surprised how well the parting tool worked for both grooving and parting off . Although carbide I used them not much above HSS speeds and in fact when I tried running them at higher speeds there was no improvement.

One of the boring tools looks to have a decent shaped bit so that could probably be made good plus there are a couple of others that may turn out ok. I guess there are about six tools from the set of twelve that could be useful.

It was just a bit of a test and obviously I am not recommending the set, far from it but with a bit of work you can get a few usable tools and if they come with the machine why not.

dsc06761.jpg

Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
15/07/2019 15:08:45

Thanks for the tip Jason, I will keep it boxed with the collets so I always no where it is.

This morning I quickly totted up the cost of all the tooling and I think the lathe was thrown in for free...LOL

15/07/2019 12:52:18

Thanks Dave and Vic, something else I have learnt this morning, didnt know about the ball bearing type collet nuts will get one on order.

Cheers

Ron

Thread: Different ways of boring a hole
15/07/2019 07:21:05

Wow, those set ups in the three videos are impressive to say the least, great stuff.

Ron

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Advertise With Us
Eccentric Engineering
Eccentric July 5 2018
Warco
Ausee.com.au
ChesterUK
Meridienne Sept 2019
TRANSWAVE Converters
Allendale Electronics
emcomachinetools
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest