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Member postings for Ron Laden

Here is a list of all the postings Ron Laden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Rotary Table
09/12/2019 15:54:15

At £200 for the table and tailstock that is a very good buy, it certainly looks to be the ArcEuro one and I have only heard good things about it.

Thread: Using metric dials on cj18 mini lathe
09/12/2019 15:19:12

Hi Steve,

My CJ18 didnt have adjustable dials and as Brian suggests I had them set to adjust the backlash, its something I was going to modify but I didnt get around to it before I moved up to a larger lathe.


Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019
09/12/2019 13:52:38
Posted by Ron Laden on 27/11/2019 07:51:29:
Posted by JasonB on 24/11/2019 17:26:02:

I've remembered one of the reasons I'm not keen on casting kits - they don't take long to dosad Started this one on the 2nd Nov and finished today with the exception of making a couple of screws and waiting for some adhesive to complete the spark plug.

Excellent, I really like the look of it, look forward to seeing it run dont forget the video Jason.

Jason, are we quite near to having the engine up and running, I say we as its just that I have been looking forward to seeing it.

Thread: Micro Mill
09/12/2019 08:06:08

Hi Paul, with the Dc and 3ph motors having similar power figures it sounds to be worth a try at £35.

In your searching have you seen a 3ph motor with a bit more power, say 250/300 watts but with the wrong size spigot..? If the spigot was smaller you could turn up a spacing collar and if it too large remove the motor end plate and turn down the collar to 50mm. You maybe dont want to mess around that way but it was just a thought providing there is a motor with a little more power and at the right price of course.


Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
08/12/2019 09:57:56

Thanks Guys, I have just ordered a 10mm holder so I will see what arrives, at a fiver it wont be the end of the world if its not up to much.

Ega, I think its the same part number as yours.

08/12/2019 07:39:20

I wonder what the Banggood threading insert holders would be like..? they do quite a range for both internal and external threading.

I have never used Banggood and I wouldnt use them for the inserts but I would have thought the holders should be half decent..?

07/12/2019 08:21:57

Anyone use the carbide threading inserts..? to be honest I didnt know they existed until I came across them yesterday. I was looking at some internal and external inserts in 60 and 55 degree, I really like the idea of them and fancy getting some but I need to see if a 8mm or 10mm shank tool holder is available as 10mm is the max I can go with and dont know yet if they come down that small.

Thread: Case Hardening
05/12/2019 13:31:58

Ah I see, thanks Jason.

05/12/2019 13:12:55

I know nothing on this subject but what is the difference in the end product between case hardening using a carbon compound or quenching in oil which I believe is another method of hardening..?

Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
04/12/2019 08:36:40

At long last I have a rolling chassis, more detail to add to the sides and ends but that can come later as I want to make a start on the body.

Still thinking about the best approach for the build of the body, I have considered carving a blue foam plug and laying up a glass shell with laminating epoxy. I have used the method a few times in the past on R/C aircraft but in a small workshop the thought of being knee deep in foam shavings doesnt appeal much.

I built the shunter body from a mix of 6mm MDF, 1mm, 2mm and 3mm ply, ABS and alu sheet and it worked quite well so that is an option but the class 22 body is twice the length so it would mean more in the way of framing.

Anyway pleased the main chassis and bogies are complete.


Thread: Screwcutting on the lathe
03/12/2019 08:27:00
Posted by old mart on 02/12/2019 14:35:40:

Why not ditch the 29 degrees and keep the compound parallel to the axis? It is so much less complicated for beginners. The finishing cuts should be only about 0.001" and should not be too much even for a small lathe. Proper threading inserts are sharp and do not cause undue stresses on the machine. The other advantage of going in straight is you can use the scales to measure the exact thread depth directly, which is found in decent thread charts.

Edited By old mart on 02/12/2019 14:38:47

Thats what I do with the tool square to the job, it seems to work fine for me and I am a relative beginner when it comes to thread cutting.


Edited By Ron Laden on 03/12/2019 08:29:11

Thread: Seig X2 dust guard covers
03/12/2019 08:21:48

The X2 came with covers..? my SX2P didnt but to be honest I have never found it a problem. I clean the machine down in between jobs and give it a deep clean about once a month, have had no issues from swarf.

Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
02/12/2019 04:37:18

Sounds good Trevor, I am certainly happy with mine. The previous owner had done a number of mods which are well engineered so I was lucky. The only thing I have added is a digital readout for the spindle speed.


Edited By Ron Laden on 02/12/2019 04:40:09

Thread: Mini Lathe Upgrade
29/11/2019 14:05:48

Ian, that probably would help a bit but I think the bottom line is that the cross/compound slides and tool post are just not rigid enough. They are fine for general turning though so dont let it put anyone off the mini they are good machines but parting really does test the mini lathe at least it did mine.

Having said that I have read on a number of occasions people saying that their mini-lathe is fine with parting and they regularly part 50 - 60mm steel bar with no issues..? That is not my experience with the mini and it was only after I made the heavier cross slide and rear post that I could tackle that size of job.

Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling
29/11/2019 13:31:00

I have just 4 x R8 collets 6, 10, 12 and 16mm and they cover all my current tooling plus of course a drill chuck, boring head and 22mm arbor all of which are R8.

Having had a set of 15 x ER25 collets come with the second hand lathe it would be a bit daft not to have a chuck to enable me to use them on the mill.

Thread: Mini Lathe Upgrade
29/11/2019 10:13:36

Hi Colin,

I have moved up to a bit bigger lathe now but dont get me wrong I am not knocking the mini-lathe, never would as you say a great machine for the money. Mine taught me a lot and I did some good work on it, I did consider changing the spindle bearings on mine when I had the head stripped to change to metal gears but I put the standard ones back.

The heavier cross slide is a bit of a job but well worth doing should you ever consider it.


29/11/2019 09:44:02

Hi Colin,

The changing of the bearings to better quality angular type I would think well worth doing but I cant quite see how they are going to improve rigidity regarding parting off issues. I can only go with the experience I had with my mini -lathe which had the factory fitted bearings which were not top quality but good enough. I never had a problem with the spindle and never thought it lacking in rigidity, the bearings were well adjusted there was no end float, no play and the fact the lathe worked well in normal turning operations sort of proved that.

However I did like you have parting off issues which in the end led to not using a parting tool larger than 1.5mm and I only parted off small parts, I wouldnt attempt anything large. So there was a lack of rigidity but where..? well I think it is a lack of rigidity in the cross slide, top slide and tool post and also a lack of rigidity between them (as a set) and the head. I had no problem with general turning the lathe worked well though I never pushed it too hard and I just based that on accepting that the mini-lathe is a lightweight machine and trying to keep within its limitations.

So what to about the problems with parting off, a few of the guys here on the forum suggested a rear tool post but it did mean making a larger heavier duty cross slide which is no small job. The cross slide on the mini is not really big enough to take a decent rear tool post so I bought a large chunk of cast iron and made a new one with longitudinal T slots and a rear toolpost, picture below.

The end result was a different machine when it came to parting off, I could user larger tools if needed and part larger sizes with no issues at all. Making a new cross slide wouldnt appeal to everyone of course but it was easily the best mod I did to the lathe.

My two penneth anyway and good luck with the bearings, hope they make a difference.




Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling
29/11/2019 08:17:24

I have had the DRO,s fitted to the SX2P for 3 months now and they are working well. Fitting a swarf guard (thin alu angle) is easy with the X & Y but not so on the Z as the sensor bracket comes forward to connect to the head. Previous posts above show I slotted a length of 1" x 1" x 1/16" for the bracket to fit through and give it a try, well just to say it works a treat. You can see from the picture that the beam is completely clean, some swarf does get through the slot but the slot is offset to the beam so not much reaches the beam and been vertical it must just fall off as it is always clean.

If your are about to fit a DRO to the Z on a SX2P or even have one fitted but unguarded I think it is worth adding the slotted guard.



Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
28/11/2019 09:36:54

Boring a clearance hole in the two chassis top plates (3mm steel) to allow a 17mm socket access for adjusting the bogie pivot bolt, the plates only just fitted mounted diagonally across the table which allowed a clamp on each corner.

The picture also shows the bogie plates and the pivot bolt, I just kept it simple and shortened a M10 bolt leaving enough plain shoulder to run through both the bogie and chassis plate, the chassis plate is a copy of the bogie plate. I have also produced a 2mm thick x 35mm dia thrust washer but I am going to remake those increasing to 55mm diameter. I have also gone simple by using a nyloc nut to hold the pivot in place, once adjusted and at the moment I am thinking 0.50mm end float the nyloc should hold that position and not work loose.

On one of the plates you may be able to make out a pair of M5 hex heads either side of the M10 head, these are to prevent the bolt from rotating when adjusting the nyloc. When the motors are assembled into the bogie frame there is no access to the bolt head with a spanner or socket as the head is almost hidden. I did think about having the head tack welded or thread the plate and fix with 638 but that would mean losing the plain shoulder and having to make a sleeve/bush. So again I went simple and fitted the M5 Hex heads, when the bogie is assembled I can just get a thin screwdriver between the motors to push the bolt head up between the M5,s until the nyloc pulls it up to the plate.

Not too far away from having a rolling chassis.



Edited By Ron Laden on 28/11/2019 10:09:04

Thread: which lathe?
28/11/2019 06:55:51

Jamie, it does seem an expensive approach in buying a lathe just to make up some bearings but it sounds as if that's what you want to do so who are we to argue. Let's not go all around the houses if you can afford £590 get yourself a Sieg SC2 from ARC it's currently at a discounted price. It's 12 inch between centres or the SC3 which is £690 and 16 inch so a bit longer. They both have 500 watt brushless motors and you don't hear much bad press about them so they are decent mini lathes and if I were looking for a mini lathe at the moment it would be my choice. Others may advise other machines but the Sieg SC, s would be my recommendation.


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