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Member postings for Ron Laden

Here is a list of all the postings Ron Laden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Tapping Mode on Mill
11/08/2020 08:04:13

Where possible I do most of my tapping on the mill, I don't have the built in tapping mode but I could see myself using it a lot.

I only have the smaller SX2P at the moment but is was very easy to fit a reverse switch. My range is up to M6 in steel and I can manage M8 in aluminium providing its not too deep.

I also machine tap most blind holes, I measure the hole depth, knock off 2mm and set the DRO with the tap contacting the start of the hole. Seems to work fine though it does concentrate the mind when close to the bottom of the hole, like Jason says you just need faith.

Thread: Airbrushing advice needed
10/08/2020 16:36:45

Sorry to interrupt but Barries pulse jet has me intrigued is that a control line model..? I can only see one elevator and no ailerons, if it is how on earth do you keep up with that..?


Thread: Facing bar ends parallel on the lathe.
10/08/2020 07:37:26

That magnetic test indicator mount looks very handy Jason did you buy it or make it up yourself.


Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
02/08/2020 11:10:16

Thanks Martin yes I am thinking of getting a 5 inch chuck it comes with inside and outside and soft jaws are available. I wouldn't use the inside jaws with them relying on the last tooth far too dangerous, I was just curious as to the capacity of the inside jaws on the 5 inch (used correctly) hence my original question.

Going with the 5 inch from ARC £50 and a 1.5" x 8 tpi backing plate, price is very good and I am hoping it will be as good as the two chucks I had from them for the mini lathe, they were spot on making them great value.

01/08/2020 05:46:50

Seems most 5 inch 3 Jaws are listed at around 40mm but the practical dimension is listed as 50mm well that's what I found on a couple of sites.

31/07/2020 14:47:54

Can anyone with a 5 inch 3 jaw tell me its capacity across the inside Jaws, I appreciate it may differ across the makes but would have thought they would be similar.

I have done a bit of a search in a couple of places and it's coming up with approx 40mm which I find a bit odd as my 4 inch 3 jaw can take 40mm, I was expecting more like 55mm.

Thread: Australian diesel loco in 5 gauge.
31/07/2020 09:59:39


There was mention of could it be light for good traction but I cant imagine that, I would have thought the loco has more than enough all up weight for good traction. Have you a finished weight, just interested what it comes out at.


Thread: Hardening EN8?
31/07/2020 07:27:42

I made my first buttons quite recently and just used some EN8 as is, used them to shape some alu parts, didn't have any problems.

Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
30/07/2020 13:20:31

The work is 1.75" steel unknown but it cuts nice. When it comes to parting off I throw feed rates out of the window I just aim for a cut with no issues or problems if it takes a bit longer I don't worry. I just think of the material the diameter and guestimate a spindle speed and feed, if the machine sounds happy so am I. I do tweak the speed and feed if I think I can get away with it or if it needs it but otherwise I leave well alone.

That's just me though I'm the same with turning and milling I go by the feel and sound of the machine regardless of what the books and charts say.

Thread: Australian diesel loco in 5 gauge.
30/07/2020 10:02:36

Very impressive Fred not only in designing/scratch building the loco but to do the same and design and build an engine for it is even more so.

Its obvious from the pictures the level of thought, design and quality of engineering that has gone in to it you should be very very proud of it, excellent it really is.

Would you be so kind and post some video of it when you take it to the track, would love to see and hear it running.


Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
30/07/2020 09:24:50

Hi Niels

Spec sheets below for the motor/box I have used its a MFA975D1041 ratio 140 to 1 listed as 67rpm @ 12 volts though there is a +/- 12.5% on speed, mine is nearer 85rpm on 12 volt. You can see the gearbox torque figures on the sheet, cost of motor around £30 and Farnell stock them, others sell them but watch pricing. There are other makes of course Maxon are excellent but a bit pricey, Mclennan and Micromotors are also good. Just be careful of the cheap motors on Ebay, some are good but some are not.

I have some experience of the MFA motors as I used them in my Electric RC aircraft days. The 975D comes in 5 ratios and I went with middle ground thinking the others either side either too fast or too slow. Quality is very good and they are very robust having a heavy duty feel about them considering their size. The box is a planetary type which is good on efficiency and well engineered.

Nothing clever on my part re the motor/box, a mix of trial and error and a bit of gut feeling for what would be about right which fortunately worked out. The range of speeds and the torque seems about right for most turning/parting or at least for how I will be using it. Having a driven feed for parting was probably the main reason I decided to do the mod.

Certainly worth doing if you fancy adding a drive to yours, a short video below of parting which you asked for it works well.




Thread: Battleship Grey
30/07/2020 07:10:01

The company I worked for made equipment for the navy and the colour spec given to us by the MOD was BS381C 697, they know it as Light Admiralty Grey, stuck in my mind as I always had a tin of touch up on my bench.

That's current of course, don't know what colour if you go back years.

Edited By Ron Laden on 30/07/2020 07:13:11

Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
29/07/2020 07:30:40

I thought I had better test the drive with a heavyish load to check for any problems so took a 100 thou face cut in steel (spec unknown). No problems at all, not a hint of hesitation so pleased with that, you can see the fast retrieve from the variable drive which is quite handy.

26/07/2020 20:18:08

I forgot to say there is one job left to do and that is to add a support bearing to the rear end of the leadscrew, it will need a pocket milling in the leadscrew channel to accept a mounted ballrace. The end of the leadscrew is unsupported rear of the nut and it doesnt run dead true which is not normally a problem you would never know but connected to the clutch which has some clearance between the parts it creates a bit of out of true running. It works fine but would be better centered and supported in a bearing.


Edited By Ron Laden on 26/07/2020 20:20:33

26/07/2020 19:29:45

Tis finished, the cross slide drive is all wired and working well, really pleased with it how it turned out and good fun to do. I think I mentioned before that I have gone with the easy option, as you can see in the video below the motor/gearbox/dog clutch sit a fair way back but I am ok with that. I dont have a rear splash guard so I could get away with it, the lathe didnt come with guard so I just use pieces of heavy cardboard or whatever and change when needed.

With a rear guard there are a couple of options, you could cut a horizontal slot in the guard surprise just enough to allow the motor to pass through. Other than that the motor/clutch would have to be lowered to beneath the rear of the cross slide and brought forward but that would get more complicated as it would need a belt or gear drive up to the leadscrew. I did consider a drive on the front of the saddle but it would be seriously complicated and need some major surgery and as much as I wanted a cross drive I didnt want to go that far.

The variable speed I think is a nice feature from dead slow to quite fast, too fast at the top end for cutting but good for bringing the tool back from a cut which on larger work could be quite handy. The torque from the motor/gearbox is quite impressive considering they are not that big a unit, thats why the end limit switches are a must as an over-run could do some damage.

Cost wise about £75 in total for the motor/box, speed controller, DC power supply, switches/electrical bits, I think that comes out as pretty cheap in adding a driven crossfeed from scratch to a lathe without one. So for any 920 owners if you fancy a driven cross slide it is doable and I,m sure there are more ways to skin a cat this was just my approach.

Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1
26/07/2020 14:36:11

Looks good Jason, that certainly saved some manual machine time and a lot of handwork.

What wood do you use for patterns, is it a hardwood or does it depend on how often they will be used.


Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
23/07/2020 15:04:30

I finally got the electrical parts together to allow me to wire the cross feed drive and get it finished off. I mounted the end stop micro switches onto a thin walled piece of alu angle which also serves as a swarf guard. I fitted the mount to the r/h side of the saddle with a couple of 4mm spacers to stand it off the slide. I also milled a slot in the mount to allow the switch activation pin to protrude through, the pin is a piece of M3 studding which is screwed into the side of the slide. The mount covers access to the slide gib adjusting screws but should I need to make any adjustments just 2 screws and the mount is removed. Overall travel front to rear of the slide is 85mm which I think will be fine, a couple of pics below.



Edited By Ron Laden on 23/07/2020 15:10:35

Edited By Ron Laden on 23/07/2020 15:14:19

Thread: Another Engine Build
22/07/2020 20:01:10

Thanks Jason, I did realise eventually blush that the 1mm step was at the bottom of the rod slot but I couldnt understand the 0.7mm movement but with your above explanation now I do, I had no idea it worked like that.


22/07/2020 19:31:54

Hi Jason, I am in the process of finishing the valve parts and I am thinking of the parts fitting together as per your assy above so I think I have that correct. I was assuming that the valve would be a close face to face sliding fit with the cylinder with next to nothing in the way of any clearance, is that not the case..?

22/07/2020 08:52:15
Posted by Ron Laden on 22/07/2020 08:28:09:

Jason, the valve rod is centered in the valve chest 5mm from the cylinder face. Half the width of the valve nut is 2.3mm plus the 1.0mm step in the valve slot plus the 2mm thick valve face which totals 5.3mm.? am I missing something..?

Edited By Ron Laden on 22/07/2020 08:41:06

I am being dim this morning if I read the drawing correctly I would have seen the nut doesn't sit on the 1.0mm step but having said that I still can't see that the dims put the valve face to face with the cylinder..?

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