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Member postings for Ron Laden

Here is a list of all the postings Ron Laden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
19/07/2019 16:32:32

Hi Brian,

My mistake the compound mount is not a George Thomas design, that was some other parts on the lathe. The mount is Adam,s (the previous owner) version of a design that he found on the Yahoo 920 forum. I was going to have a look for it but for some reason despite my searching I cant find the Yahoo 920 Forum, I dont know if it still exists, I would have thought it did but I cant track it down.

Should anyone have a link to the forum it would be appreciated.


19/07/2019 08:39:10
Posted by Brian G on 18/07/2019 20:31:44:

Your clamp ring looks like it works in the same way as that shown here **LINK** with the bolts being released to turn the compound. It looks like Ron's doesn't work that way, as it would be difficult to access the cap screws in certain positions

Perhaps the two screws at the front press wedges against a conical stem, like a larger version of that on a Myford Super 7?


Hi Brian,

A picture below of the underside of the mount, you can see the top side in the video I posted. I dont want to take it apart as it is very well set up and adjusted.

I am not certain but I think it is based on a George Thomas design but with some tweaks by the lathes previous owner. I will be speaking with him later today I will try and find out more. You are correct in that the angled grub screws (2 front - 2 rear) lock the swivel via small pushrods with an angled face that contacts the radius. It works very well just a light nip on each grub locks the swivel solid.

Some of the mods on the lathe follow those done by Stephan Gotteswinter to his 920 style lathe. If you go to Youtube and search for "Stephan Gotteswinter Shoptalk #7 The 250 x 550 Lathe" you should find his video which runs through the mods he made....well worth a watch.

I will let you know if I find out more.



Edited By Ron Laden on 19/07/2019 08:40:53

Thread: TTFN
18/07/2019 17:32:33

Andrew, the forum will be a poorer place without you, you will be missed by many thats for sure. I for one will miss your help and answers to my often daft questions plus I have learnt a lot from your replies to other members threads.

I didnt realise that there is a size limit to the machinery we are supposed to use in model engineering, maybe someone could explain how you produce parts for a pair of large scale traction engines as you are with small hobby machines..?

I understand your decision but it really makes me mad that you have been made to feel like you do.

Best regards


Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
18/07/2019 10:22:03

The basic axlebox and spring mounts are done, they will need 25mm long springs which at their rating gives 3mm compression when all 8 boxes are loaded and a further 6mm of travel when running. I went with those dimensions/figures on the 0-4-0 and it works fine. The bearings are shouldered oilites, 10mm long which matches the length of the stub axles and conveniently leaves a recess for bearing caps which I will turn from aluminium.


Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
18/07/2019 09:15:51

Thanks guys,

Mike, yes I am lucky in that most of the mods/improvements people seem to carry out on the 918/920 have been done and they have been well engineered.

Re the head bearings, mine has flush fitting plastic caps both sides so I cant add any grease and I dont fancy trying to remove the caps. The bearings seem to be in good condition though so I,m not too worried at the moment.

Joe, thanks for the info re the collets.


Thread: Cheap Tipped Tool Set - Maybe not all bad..?
18/07/2019 08:46:25

I knew the grooving tool would come in at some point and its sooner than later, ideal in a tight space. Saved buying more oilites (£20) I modified some I already had. smiley


Thread: Yet another "parting off grief" thread ;)
17/07/2019 09:50:52


I dont know if I,m correct but I think you have a Warco WM250 lathe, in which case it will have a T slotted cross slide which is ideal as you can fit a rear tool post. I can only base it on my experience with a 7 x 14 mini-lathe but the rear tool post I made and fitted transformed parting off from something I dreaded to something that was a pleasure to do with no worries.

I think Warco do a rear tool post and mounting plate but it may be sized for the WM280/290 so if you wanted one you would need to talk to them, I suspect it could be modified though to fit a WM250.

Its just a thought but as I say for me the rear post transformed parting off.


Thread: Cheap Tipped Tool Set - Maybe not all bad..?
16/07/2019 16:50:05

Yes they obviously do have their shortcomings and the carbide probably is of a poor quality but it was interesting to see if they would produce a half decent test piece and they certainly did that but they wouldnt be my cutting tools of choice.

As Neil suggests they may come in one day when there is something nasty to machine. The one tool I will keep handy though is the 3mm parting tool, not for parting but for grooving as that really did work very well.


16/07/2019 12:14:26

Last year when I started out and got my mini lathe it came with a set of carbide tipped tools. Not knowing any different at the time I thought great, I could start making swarf...but no.

The tools come shaped (and there are some strange shapes) but none are sharpened or at least mine were not. Some of you guys suggested I shelve them and get myself a decent set of HSS tools and/or blanks and cut my own which I did.

I had forgotten about the tipped set until yesterday when I came across them again. I wondered if some of them were given a good edge how good or bad they would be. I picked out one or two using the ones that were reasonably shaped though I had to change/improve some of the angles.

I put up a piece of free cutting steel as a test piece and gave them a try, I used the smaller of the two knife type on the spigot and the bit heavier version on the shoulder behind. The chamfer tool was a bit of a dogs dinner to start with (still is) but I got a good edge on it and used it between the shoulder and the spigot. The parting tool I used for cutting the groove and the parting off.

Well the tools worked ok, not the very best of finishes but not too bad at all, I was surprised how well the parting tool worked for both grooving and parting off . Although carbide I used them not much above HSS speeds and in fact when I tried running them at higher speeds there was no improvement.

One of the boring tools looks to have a decent shaped bit so that could probably be made good plus there are a couple of others that may turn out ok. I guess there are about six tools from the set of twelve that could be useful.

It was just a bit of a test and obviously I am not recommending the set, far from it but with a bit of work you can get a few usable tools and if they come with the machine why not.


Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
15/07/2019 15:08:45

Thanks for the tip Jason, I will keep it boxed with the collets so I always no where it is.

This morning I quickly totted up the cost of all the tooling and I think the lathe was thrown in for free...LOL

15/07/2019 12:52:18

Thanks Dave and Vic, something else I have learnt this morning, didnt know about the ball bearing type collet nuts will get one on order.



Thread: Different ways of boring a hole
15/07/2019 07:21:05

Wow, those set ups in the three videos are impressive to say the least, great stuff.


Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1
15/07/2019 07:04:02

Looking good Jason, I bet that saved some time over doing them manual.

Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
15/07/2019 06:57:16
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 15/07/2019 01:50:45:
Posted by Ron Laden on 10/07/2019 19:14:27:

Its my first time with ER collets, would I be right in thinking that the correct fitting procedure is to first fit the collet into the nut, (you can sort of feel it clip in) and then fit the nut to the chuck body, checking its correctly seated..


Tip: do them up as tight as you can with the supplied spanner. They 'like' being tight for accuracy and grip and won't be damaged if holding work in their capacity range, the standard torque is surprisingly high and hard to achieve by hand.


Thanks Neil, I didnt know that.


14/07/2019 16:42:48

Well the lathe may have a number of modifications and improvements but at 23 years.... the bottom line...does it work ok..?

I have done quite a bit of work with it this weekend (mainly tests) and fortunately all seems well, I turned alu and steel and got a nice finish with both. I did some parting off with a 1.5mm tool front mounted and that had no issues. It does have a rear tool post but I havnt got a suitable sized tool for that just yet. I tried a thread cutting test, not the full thread but the first few passes and that went well and was good to size. All seems to work and I havnt found any issues plus the VFD is nice to use.

Apparently the taper roller spindle bearings are original and they feel good. I clocked the spindle plate and that had 0.0015" runout and the same for the rear flange end of the 3 jaw. I put up a piece of ground bar using the 3 jaw and that was good to just under a thou so more than happy with that. I havnt pushed it too far yet but took some 3mm cuts in alu and 2mm in steel and they were fine, no issues re torque.

So it may be getting on a bit but it still does the job, I just hope it continues but cant see why not.


14/07/2019 13:20:51

George you asked what mods have been added to the lathe, below is a short video (not great-hand held) that shows most of them.

List of mods in no particular order:

Tailstock clamping lock changed to lever type, lathe drive converted to 3 phase/VFD, carriage/way wipers changed to felt, carriage lock changed to Bristol handle, main lead screw drive mod to give forward and reverse, heavy duty 4 bolt top slide mount, top slide and cross slide both have better quality lead screws and nuts with ballrace mounts, both slides have heavier brass gibs and additional adjusting screws, tool post changed to QCTP and rear tool post with mounting plate added.

So quite a few mods/additions the bulk of which is to the top and cross slide and they have been very well engineered.

The only addition I am going to add is a DRO for the spindle speed, they dont cost much and work well, I put one on the mill.

Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)
13/07/2019 11:06:05

The 1/8" slitting saw arrived, I was looking for a 3mm to fit my R8 / 22mm arbor but struggled to find one. Jason suggested that if I could get away with a 1/8" then ARC had them in stock though the mount hole was 1" and would need to knock up a stepped bush which I did.

The saw is for slotting the axle box spring mounts (8 off) so I set them up this morning using the 4 jaw mounted on the RT. I thought it the best way to hold them with the blade running through between the jaws it worked fine, took no time to do all eight.

Thanks Jason, I would probably still be searching for a 3mm saw at the right price.


Thread: Slitting saw arbour
12/07/2019 08:01:57

This came with the lathe tooling, quite a neat idea with stepped mounts for different size blades and they are sprung so as you fit the cap they push back, you wouldnt think there is enough space for them to push back but they do until the blade meets the shoulder. Dont know where it came from as there is no name on it, I had my doubts as to how well it would work and hold the blade but a quick try with a 1.5mm blade and it worked a treat.


Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918
11/07/2019 20:00:50

Thanks guys,

Russell my lathe doesnt have the two oilers as shown in the Grizzly manual so maybe my machine pre-dates the Grizzly version. Actually I noticed the lathes date on the serial plate Aug-96 so 23 years next month, older than I thought. Also I cant quite see how those oilers on top of the head can work, if the bearings are fitted like mine then a hole down from the oiler would come up against the outer face of the bearing which is pressed into its machined mount so a dead end so to speak. The oil wouldnt be able to travel anywhere, I can see it would if the bearing mount had a keyway type channel cut into it. The oil would then run out over the ends of the bearing, some of which would then get into the bearing.

Anyway its oil can to the ready me thinks.


11/07/2019 07:49:14

The lathe spindle runs in taper roller bearings, they are original and still feel very good. I can just access the inner faces by removing a plate and would like to give them some lubrication just to be sure they are not drying out.

I have read all sorts about lubricating taper rollers, some say oil, some say grease (but not too much) some say they need frequent lube others say not. There is no provision for oiling other than an oil can from inside the head cavity, so it been a dry head I assume grease which I could push in with a finger. The manual has a lubrication plan but there is no mention of the spindle bearings.

How do you guys approach spindle taper rollers.


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