Here is a list of all the postings Ron Laden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)|
Thanks Roger, I must admit I am a fan of weathering providing its not over done or done badly. If done reasonably well I think it can add realism to the subject, though its not everyones cup of tea and I think the majority prefer their locos looking pristine which is fine, everyone to their own.
Dave, thanks for the explanation on the amplifier circuit and what each component does.
I learnt something today by chance whilst watching a video, although a lot of switched circuit breakers look the same there is AC and DC types and they are different animals not to be interchanged. Not knowing there is the two types I just ordered one at the time and I cant remember any reference to AC or DC unless I missed it. So I think it probable I have an AC type in the loco when of course it should be a DC so will have to get one on order.
Goes to prove that too little knowledge can be dangerous.
|Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1|
Wow Jason those feed rates are impressive, at the 1000mm/min blink and you would miss it plus the surface finish looked very good to me.
|Thread: Battery Electric Locomotive|
I have built two electric locos to date both my own designs I dont know if any plans exist for electric locos I havnt come across any but thats not to say they dont. The first thing you should consider is what type of loco do you want to build, scale, semi scale or a fun type loco, obviously a scale loco needs a lot of research and build time compared with a small simple fun type one. Pictures below of my two, the little 0-4-0 shunter with a simple 08 style body I built first and it didnt take too long the aim been to produce some thing quite quickly that would carry me and the grand kids around the club track. Its quite simple with a single 12 volt battery and 4 x 65 watt motors giving 260 watts total, 2 motors driving each axle through 6/1 gears, it turned out quite a capable little engine it copes with 4 adults or me and 5 children no problem.
The Class 22 is my latest offering, semi scale as the aim was for a reasonable representation of a 22 which allowed some licence in certain areas. A lot more work and build than the little shunter though, twice as long and almost 3 times the weight 60kgs against 23kgs, 4 motors again but 150 watt each, belt drive and twin bogies driven from 2 x 12 volt batteries giving 24 volt.
I have a build thread for each of the locos 5 inch 0-4-0 Shunter and Class 22 Diesel have a look it may give you some idea but bear in mind that I am no expert they are just my approach and take on things (keep it simple), though there is lots of ways to skin a cat.
|Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)|
That's a good idea Duncan but I,m afraid I am not into electronics to that level. I am OK with basic wiring and ok with simple electronics if I am shown what to do but I don't have the understanding to design a unit as you describe.
I still want to change over the ratio from 4.5/1 to 6/1 which will increase the pulling power and offer some reduction in top end speed.
Edited By Ron Laden on 16/10/2021 14:15:34
Thanks Jason, just pleased the design worked out OK.
Yes I lost count of the number of runs I had there was only 3 steamers and me so a quiet day loco numbers wise, the steamer guys finished early so I had the track to myself and it was a lovely day. I have to say that I was taken by surprise at the acceleration and the top speed when I opened her up on the back straight which is not that long. It really pushed me back and guesstimating top speed at 15+mph and with the club speed limit at 5mph obviously far too much.
The motor pulleys that came fitted to the motors are 16T giving 4.5/1, I have some 12T pulleys which would give 6/1 but they are not one piece the toothed section is turned to a spigot with the boss pressed on and with a 8mm bore to fit the motor shaft the boss would come adrift. I could remove the armatures from the motors run between centres and turn them down to 5mm which would leave enough meat on the 12T pulleys but that is something to consider for the winter months. In the mean time it just needs some throttle control to keep things sensible.
A bit better focus I think.
Apologies for the thread dragging on but life and health (don't ask) just got in the way especially of late. However I did manage a few productive hours in the shop last week and the loco is as finished as its going to be. I still have the two cabs to fit out but they can wait.
So all been well if I continue to improve the track test is not far away and I hope to get some video of how things go.
Picture below of it desperate to be sitting on some rails..
|Thread: Turning (approximating) a Domed Surface|
Thanks John, that is true if you are working to a given radius (I wasn't on the buffers) then the rod needs to be the length of that radius dimension and set parallel to the bed. Also with a 50mm radius you can see that the rod would be too short to run between the head and the cross slide so a fixed extension is needed as seen in the John P picture. Thinking about it the extension doesn't have to come off the head if it's easier then something clamped across the bed would also work.
Edited By Ron Laden on 28/09/2021 05:20:39
I have used the guide rod method a few times, its simple, quick to do and works a treat.
A picture below of the convex face I turned on the class 22 buffers.
|Thread: 5” Rotary Table/Tailstock/Chuck Kit Info/Questions|
I went for the small set of finger collets, 6, 10, 12 and 16mm although I have used all of them it's the 6 and 10mm that's gets used the most as they take the majority of my regularly used cutters.
I suppose one could argue that with just a small protrusion and a direct fit in the mills R8 taper they must be stiffer than a tool mounted in a chuck with a 40mm extension from the taper. However having said that the R8 collet chuck is quite a rigid bit of tooling and I suspect that in practice you would never see any difference between it and the finger collets.
Something that Jason has mentioned on occasion and which I have found to be true is when using the smaller cutters they get a bit lost under the spindle when mounted in a finger collet. With a small protusion and been so close to the spindle it can be difficult to see the cutter, especially on flat work down close to the mill table. You have to bend down to get the tool at eye level should you need to see/watch it or mount the work higher if possible, just something to be aware of.
Pleased your generally happy with the Soba 5 inch table it should serve you well. I must have been lucky with mine I have 1.5 minutes backlash at the handwheel and 0.0015" at the table edge. In a full 360 degree rotation I have a couple of spots each about 15 degrees worth where it goes a tad light but hardly noticeable.
Don't forget you can gain around 40mm in Z if you use finger collets against using the collet chuck. I have a 6mm and 10mm which take most of my regular cutters. I mainly use the collet chuck but if you have a tall job plus a table mounted vice or chuck it could make all the difference to fitting the job and tooling in. The 40MM extra on mine is based on my finger collets against the collet chuck both from ARC.
Edited By Ron Laden on 20/09/2021 09:53:53
|Thread: Lubricating DRO linear scale on Mini Mill|
What do you call stiff, if its so stiff you think its stressing the connection to the table then something is clearly wrong and I would suspect the mounting of the unit. What did it feel like before it was mounted..? With the reader head fixing released the connecting bracket should be just touching the mounting position there should be no gap or over close which would put pressure on the head when fixed.
If your mounting is good and the unit is as stiff as you suggest then it's obviously faulty.
Do NOT lubricate the rail it needs to be clean and dry, ARC say in their spec that the units need protection from swarf and coolant etc. I made up guards/covers for mine from 25 x 25 x 1.5 alu angle, simple to do and works well.
Edited By Ron Laden on 18/09/2021 05:23:15
Edited By Ron Laden on 18/09/2021 05:44:32
|Thread: General Aeromodelling Discussion|
I agree, that really does look very nice indeed. I have always thought when building up wings/frames etc it seems a pity to the skin the structure in balsa/solar film etc hiding all the detail. Much nicer to see the build as you have with the see through tissue.
At 44 ozs I would think it should fly well with a 40 size engine.
Good luck with it.
|Thread: Machine Lamp Recommendation?|
I went with increasing the overall light level over all of the lathe, I prefer that to just highlighting the workpiece with spot type lights. So I fitted a LED cabinet strip light from Screwfix under the shelf above the lathe, works really well. The lights come in various lengths based on kitchen cabinet sizes and various wattage. What is really neat about them is they are linkable and come with a cable to connect them end to end so you can have a string of them, up to eight..? I think..? from one plug in to a wall socket.
Edited By Ron Laden on 05/09/2021 05:25:55
|Thread: Scribing with verniers|
Ti's up to you if you choose to use your Mitutoyo for scribing lines but for me I would use your old caliper and save your Mitutoyo and keep it pristine as much as possible.
I have a Mitu and a cheapie caliper but I don't tend to scribe with them. For marking out to get a feel for general positioning etc I just use a quality steel rule a small square and a sharp scriber. Where I need accuracy I use a height gauge (non digital) and angle plate, I know some say they hardly ever use theirs but I use mine a lot.
|Thread: Mill vise and rotary table|
My vice keys get the vice within 0.002" to 0.003" I always clock the vice and it only takes a couple of minutes to get it pretty much spot on, under 0.001".
My SX2P doesn't have the largest of tables so I only mount one item on the table and my vice lives on the table most of the time. Mounting both the vice and rotary table at the same time would put them both at the ends of the table which depending on the job could mean running out of travel in one direction.
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