Here is a list of all the postings Ron Laden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Home Made Rear Toolpost Issue|
I just set my tools (turning and parting) to centre height by eye against the turned point of my home made scriber set in the chuck. Is it absolutely spot on to a fraction of a thou, probably not but its as close as makes any difference as I dont have any issues in both turning or parting.
|Thread: Can Loctite 638 really be this good?|
I am biased in that I am a big fan of Loctite 638, I have put some parts together with it in the past where I thought the joint was a bit risky to rely on a Loctite connection, but the 638 has always come up trumps.
I,m sure a brazed joint would be more belt and braces but I wouldnt be at all surprised if a 638 joint would work also, the surface pitting in the tube should certainly provide a good key and if the mating face of the flange is well abraded I think it stands a good chance of success, my thoughts anyway.
The one thing I have found with 638 is that it in ideal conditions it can grab very quickly so alignment of the parts needs to be in quick time otherwise it will be a case for the blowlamp to free the misaligned parts.
|Thread: Rear toolpost for Chester craftsman|
Warco sell a rear tool post which fits their 250 lathe, I know it has a tennon for the T slot but don't any sizes. Hemingway Tools also do a kit but how much work is involved again I don't know, sorry.
|Thread: Milling Aluminium|
I guess I use aluminium quite a bit and for most cuts I use the 2 flute uncoated HSS cutters from ARC,s premium range. Good pricing and good quality they work really well.
|Thread: Which lathe to purchase|
I agree with Howard, if I was looking for a lathe and £1500 was my budget I would seriously consider the Chester Craftsman (18 inch gap bed) that Matts friend is selling at around that price. Only had around 10 hours use and £1000 less than new price, I would certainly want to be taking a look at least.
|Thread: Fake or real|
Its a fake for certain, I have one but mine cost £32 and assuming its from the same manufacturer (which it may not be of course) then its great value for money. It is a very good copy of the Mitutoyo but there are some slight differences which you would hardly notice unless you were doing a comparison against the genuine product..
Mine is very good especially considering the price, its super smooth well made and accurate in that it matches my genuine Mityutoyo spot on. My elderly Mitutoyo is starting to lose its display so took a gamble on one of the copies and I am not disappointed, whether there are a number of copies though with some not so good I dont know.
|Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)|
The dead man,s connection is a good idea, thanks for that.
Talking of too long a control lead I embarrassed myself not long after I joined the club. A club member let me take his class 37 for a run and that had a control lead which was way too long at about 6 feet or more, he did mention it to me so I coiled all the excess cable up and hung it on the trolley handbrake lever. I was half way around the track when I stopped for a red light and didnt notice the lead had uncoiled, when I set off again the trolley ran over the lead cutting it clean in half. He was ok about it but I could tell he was none too pleased..
Yes hopefully it wont be too long before the club track is open again and I must admit I am now looking forward to the test run. It will be tinged with a bit of nervousness though, thinking are my motor calculations correct, is the gearing good, how will the belt drive perform etc etc. I am fairly confident it should be ok but like they say one should never count their chickens.
That will do for now, side valances have been added and there is still some small details to add but they can wait until after the track test. I have electrics on order and decided to go with a plug in hand control which I will make up myself.
I now have the AUW which is as near as matters 61kgs so a bit of a lump but it breaks down for handling and assy into the chassis 26kgs, the body 7 kgs and the pair of 12 volt batteries 14kgs each. Hopefully traction should be good, I cant see why not as there is a battery sitting immediately above each of the two bogies, well thats the plan at least.
|Thread: Pressure Turning|
Pressure Turning..? something new to me but I watched a Joe Pieczynski video where he covers the method to produce thin discs to a given size.
I have some 150mm x 3mm alu discs to make and it looks ideal but it does raise some issues re safety, he states on more than one occasion that it can be dangerous.
He emphasises the need for a rigid machine so I wouldnt want to attempt it on a small mini lathe but I think my Warco 918 has reasonable rigidity and wonder if its worth a try. He used a sizeable lump which he called a back plate in the 3 jaw and a slightly smaller one in the tool post on a live centre with the thinner disc sandwhiched between the two, relying on the pressure applied from the tailstock for grip and drive.
Just wondered if anyone uses this method and their thoughts good or bad.
|Thread: Stuart victoria|
Jason, would it be considered as a long stroke engine it seems to have a fair length of stroke and the cylinder looks a decent length to, just wondered.
Lovely Jason and I agree much nicer at tickover something very satisfying about it.
|Thread: CNC - Easy as pressing a button - Not|
A lot of those looked very expensive but what amazed me was the too long a piece of bar/tube sticking out of the machine. It wasn't that heavy size wise but the force it generated once bent out of shape and the way it shook that fair size machine about was scary.
|Thread: Electric Traction Engine|
You are no doubt right as much as I like the thought of the drive coming from the cylinder it will be simpler and a more robust option to go with the drive from the firebox.
Having a day off from the 22 so have been giving a bit of thought to the drive on the electric T/E. I was planning on mounting the motor in the firebox and having a 12T gear driving the 80T which in turn drives back through the gears to the cylinder.
I though it would be great if it could be driven from the cylinder as per the norm but couldn't see how, until I had an idea last night. Now this a bit off the top of my head so feel free to jump in if I am missing something or whatever.
A picture below of the cylinder with an internal crank drive excuse the sketch on the end but it is just to give an idea. The black outline shows the cavity, the red the crank, the green plain bearings and the purple the toothed belt drive. It would mean the geared motor fitted in the boiler tube with the belt running through a slot in the tube up into the cylinder.
I must admit it looks a bit small when compared to the actual crank but the motor should be good as should the belt drive.
Don't know and as mentioned its off the top of my head so any thoughts welcome.
Edited By Ron Laden on 21/03/2021 11:05:47
|Thread: JB Weld|
I also agree that a Helicoil would be a better fix and I did also consider making a metal plug after drilling out the holes but the JB worked well on the small M2.5mm and considering the lawnmower holes only held a cover I thought I would give it a try.and it worked. I always have JB on the shelf and as you say Tug it saved the bother and expense of buying Helicoils and the appropriate tool.
If I had a part or repair that was built up with JB and that area required some threaded holes I would have no hesitation in drilling and tapping it providing the fixings were fairly permanent once fitted.
I have repaired 3 threaded holes, the first was a M2.5 where I drilled clearance instead of tapping size, I opened up the hole (blind) to 3.0mm and packed it with JB making sure it was full with no trapped air. Let it cure for 48 hours and then drilled 2.1mm which is a tad over and tapped it clearing the tap regularly.
I used the same procedure repairing two stripped M4 holes in a friend's lawnmower casting which I opened up to 6mm before packing with the JB.
In both cases the screws tightened well though I was a bit cautious but I went with what I thought correct for the size and they were fine. It's also worth noting that in both cases the screws would seldom be removed. What the JB thread would be like with screws that are regularly removed and refitted I can't say but providing it's not a heavy duty job and the fixings are not over done it could be ok.
I have never considered model engineering to be a long painful experience, I,m afraid if I did I would be long gone. I think I have a reasonable level of patience but it's not unlimited.
I also have a DRO set on my mill, I have used laser cut parts and I use and am a big fan of JBWeld (original) but I don't think that means I am cheating. To date apart from flywheels I have not used castings but made parts from bar stock. Everyone to their own but for me producing quite complex parts from solid against machining a preshaped casting is far more satisfying and if that means a fillet of JB to give a cast look in places that's fine.
I have found JBWeld to be excellent, I have turned, it milled it, drilled and tapped it with no problems. I have used a couple of other metal filled epoxies but they were not as good as JB original. One of the things I also like about it, is its longer cure time I,m sure that gives a stronger joint/material than the rapid set types.
Edited By Ron Laden on 18/03/2021 05:52:03
|Thread: Class 22 Diesel (next project)|
Not to everyone's taste but it is to mine.
Not too much more detail to add but the build is complete enough for a track test once the club opens up again. Electrics next and I had forgotten the front and rear side valances so some alu angle is on order.
Not too far away now and then onto other things, I am in need of a machining fix.
|Thread: Electric Traction Engine|
Spoke with our recycling centre and no they won't let me have a cylinder, a pity as they had at least 20 of the 4.5kg size and some looked like new. So onward with my search for a cylinder.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.