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Member postings for Ron Laden

Here is a list of all the postings Ron Laden has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Manual threading on the lathe - problems
13/01/2021 10:20:09

Hi Jim,

Just a thought but you say your dies are quality but have you checked their fit in the die holder, the tailstock die holder that I have is ok but not the die holders when the grubs are secured they dont hold the die square. I get around it but its a job on the list to turn up some new holders.


Thread: Real Bull CJ18, metal spindle drive gear (Pulley)
11/01/2021 06:37:19
Posted by Gazz on 10/01/2021 22:10:42:
Posted by Ron Laden on 09/01/2021 14:47:05:

Jason came up with the idea of going for a poly V belt between the motor and spindle pulleys instead of the toothed timing belt as originally fitted. The poly v belt could be adjusted to give enough drive but with just enough slack to allow the belt to slip in a stall, it did mean having to make two poly V drive pulleys which I produced in aluminium but it all turned out well (picture of belt and pulleys below)



Edited By Ron Laden on 09/01/2021 14:48:56

Dang, i was hoping i could buy those pulleys, a serpentine belt and have a crash proof set up on my lathe.

I guess i have the tool to produce most of that tho once i get the lathe up and running again, i don't have a mill or own any keyway broaches, but i do have a little 1 ton arbour press, so i could be half way there for that part (depends how much a broach kit would be for the size i need)

You don't need a broaching kit for the keyway, Jason put me onto using a piece of tool steel (picture below), I used the mill as a press I know you don't have a mill but you have your press. Jason also explained doing the same in the lathe with the pulley in the chuck, tool steel cutter in the tool post and use the carriage back and forth to make the cuts.


Thread: Humbrol Enamels
10/01/2021 10:38:51

I have always used Art Shop thinners to thin Humbrol Gloss Enamels. I was once told by a sign writer (my cousin) that diy type white spirit is too harsh, OK for brush cleaning but not for thinning decent quality paint.

Edited By Ron Laden on 10/01/2021 10:40:04

Thread: Real Bull CJ18, metal spindle drive gear (Pulley)
10/01/2021 08:22:33

Probably true Jason but for me I always thought it a bit of a failure in doing that though it isn't of course that was just me. That's why I made the heavier cross slide to take a rear tool post but it wouldn't be for everyone.

Edited By Ron Laden on 10/01/2021 08:23:27

Edited By Ron Laden on 10/01/2021 08:48:26

10/01/2021 08:08:02

I can only speak for the CJ18 which is the mini lathe I had and the bottom line is it lacked rigidity, the amount the tool post kicked when I stalled mine was scary. Mini lathes are all very similar but some models may have more rigidity than others maybe some have less. They are what they are and have limitations but if you accept that and work around it and don't push it beyond what it's capable of then they can produce some nice work.

For me I came to the conclusion that the biggest weakness rigidity wise was the small tool post sat on a small top slide which sits on a small cross slide. I often thought that if those 3 parts were increased by 25% in all dimensions it would improve things no end. It wouldn't make it perfect but I,m sure it would help and 25% wouldn't make them too big.

I wouldn't knock the mini lathe, far from it I produced some good work on mine. Starting out as a beginner it probably taught me more about turning then a big rigid machine that does everything with ease.

Just my two penneth.



Edited By Ron Laden on 10/01/2021 08:08:33

09/01/2021 14:47:05

I broke the plastic hi/low gears in the head of my CJ18 having stalled the spindle (twice) when parting steel and like you fitted a set of metal gears (the finer pitch set) as replacements. I didnt fancy having to strip the head end of the lathe should it happen again and you will know its not a five minute job.

Some believe that the plastic hi/low gears in the head are plastic to act as a sort of safety valve but that is not true they are plastic because they are far cheaper to produce than making them in steel, the same as with the plastic change wheel set that comes with the lathe.

The problem with the metal head gears is if there is a stall or a crash they wont break but something further back in the drive will and it looks as if you have found the weak link i.e. the plastic spindle drive gear. Having fitted the metal head gears I was looking for a way of fitting some sort of safety feature that would protect the drive, the motor, gears etc. Jason came up with the idea of going for a poly V belt between the motor and spindle pulleys instead of the toothed timing belt as originally fitted. The poly v belt could be adjusted to give enough drive but with just enough slack to allow the belt to slip in a stall, it did mean having to make two poly V drive pulleys which I produced in aluminium but it all turned out well (picture of belt and pulleys below)

I never really had any lack of torque problems, actually not true, I did but soon learnt how to overcome them. I set myself limits on the depth of cut depending on the material type, also the same with feed rates and spindle speed. I let the machine tell me what it was happy with and when it wasnt I adjusted settings until it was. One thing I did find is that getting the lathe higher into its power band helped a lot especially with the slower cuts, so for example if a cut was recommended at say 300rpm I would go with 400 maybe even 450 depending on the type of cut and material.

As for parting off my CJ18 was pretty hopeless in general until I bit the bullet and made a new larger / heavier duty T slotted cross slide and a rear tool post. That transformed parting off into something that was enjoyable to do but making a new cross slide is a fairly major mod and I.m not suggesting you do it.





Edited By Ron Laden on 09/01/2021 14:48:56

Thread: DTI Stand - Single Lock Type?
08/01/2021 10:45:56

Not long after I started out with funds at the time in short supply I paid £15 for the one pictured, the price included the test indicator. Thinking if it was half decent I could get by with it until I could afford better, well I have probably been lucky but I cant fault it. The big surprise is how good the test indicator is, I tested it against my more expensive dial gauge and it is good throughout its range. It has no stickiness, very smooth and always returns to exactly the same position which cant be a bad sign.

The magnetic base is fine with a good pull on the magnets and the central locking is good and secure and the swivel joints look to be well made with nothing feeling fragile about them. So if it continues to perform as it is then I dont feel the need to spend a lot more on something that wont offer anything more.

As mentioned I was probably lucky in getting a really good one.


Thread: A finished project - at last!
05/01/2021 12:47:28

Excellent workmanship and a really superb model engine.

Great stuff.


Thread: Heinrici without Castings
04/01/2021 07:42:11

Lettering looks great Jason.

Are you going to leave the lettering painted or cut back the face to reveal the brass, I think it would stand out and look good but you may not of course.


Thread: Amadeal lathes - Any good??
02/01/2021 11:02:23

The CJ18 was my first lathe which I bought from Amadeal it was a typical cheap mini lathe, needed some adjusting and setting up but it was reliable and I did some decent work on it. I also did one or two mods to it to make it a bit better. I didn't have problems with it so I didn't test Amadeal,s after sales, I have heard good and bad to be fair.

Thread: face milling
01/01/2021 07:56:00

Well be it right or wrong it seems that I run my 2 insert 25mm diameter end mill quite a bit faster than what the books and charts suggest. I have only been machining for a couple of years so not that much experience but I tend to let the machine (mill and lathe) the tooling, the cut depth, speed and feed and the finish point me in the right direction.

With the 25mm end mill I run at the mills top speed 2500rpm for cuts up to 1.5mm deep, the mill and the inserts are happy, the finish is excellent so I don't query it.

With steel and cuts up to 1.0mm deep I run with 1750rpm on EN1A and 1500 on EN3, 1250 to 1500 on EN8 though with a small part recently in EN8 the cutting area was quite small and 0.5mm deep so I went with 1750 and it was fine with a very good finish.

My thinking is that the tool is a 2 carbide insert cutter and it should be run in the higher speeds but I could be wrong and quite prepared to be corrected but as I say I am basing it on results that I get with the tool.

Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1
31/12/2020 20:13:48
Posted by JasonB on 07/11/2020 16:32:19:

Edited By JasonB on 07/11/2020 16:39:20

I almost missed this and was just about to say it looks very good but that does not do it justice, it is truly excellent and if ever a part machined from solid looked like a casting this is it.

Great stuff Jason.

Thread: Heinrici without Castings
29/12/2020 08:59:14

That looks a treat Jason, very nice work the brackets certainly have a cast look about them.

Edited By Ron Laden on 29/12/2020 08:59:42

Thread: Milling on a mini lathe
28/12/2020 08:11:52

I bet I can guess who that is wink

p.s. 10 out of 10 for "I will not be beaten" approach though.


Edited By Ron Laden on 28/12/2020 08:26:28

28/12/2020 07:48:51

Nick, don't overlook Ians point that the CJ18 (my first lathe) doesn't have a T slotted cross slide so you will need to work out a way of fixing a vertical slide. I, m sure it's doable but thought I would highlight it before you purchase one.


Thread: Shimming Techniques
27/12/2020 14:23:56

I never use mine for side milling, if its possible to turn the part so I can use the face of the endmill depending on size and shape of the part then thats what I do otherwise its 3 or 4 flute cutters as Jason suggests and side milling..

Its surprising what you can do with it though here is the shutter for the CHUKY engine, one piece 38mm x 12mm x 13mm of EN8 steel and all done with the 25mm endmill apart from the rad on the top of the block which I filed to shape.

A fairly small part 36mm long, 12mm wide and the block 8mm high, the shutter blade is 0.8mm thick and it turned out very flat, just needs polishing up which I will do by hand.


Edited By Ron Laden on 27/12/2020 14:25:17

27/12/2020 08:55:36

Thanks Thor, yes thats the ones.

Dr, the R8 version is part number 060-282-00258 and the coated inserts (for steel) part number 060-282-1640M you need 2 off and also 2 off of part number 060-282-1604K (non ferrous).

The quality of the end mill and the inserts is excellent and the pricing is good to.

No connection with ARC just a satisfied customer.


26/12/2020 05:29:05

If you haven't got one already can I suggest you get yourself a two insert 25mm end mill from ARC, I have one for my SX2P and it's one of the cutters I use the most on my machine. You can get larger diameter (ARC do a range of sizes) but I think 25mm is as large as I would run on a SX2.

Last week I did a similar job to yours cutting two flats 15mm long x 8mm deep on some 12mm EN8 flat steel bar. I took 1mm deep cuts across the full 15mm to the 8mm depth, no chatter and no horrible sounds.

As mentioned the 25mm size uses a pair of inserts, polished inserts for non ferrous and coated inserts for steel. I have found the mills top speed of 2500rpm good for alu and around 1750 for steel works well. Providing you don't go silly with the depth of cut the mill drives the tool very well with no issues.

For the SX2P I would really recommend getting one, I don't think you would regret it and soon find how much you would come to use it.


Thread: Mery Christmas Everybody
25/12/2020 09:42:10

Happy Christmas to all, hope you have a nice one.


Thread: Heinrici without Castings
25/12/2020 09:37:34

Thank you Jason and a happy Christmas to you.


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