Here is a list of all the postings Bill Phinn has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Gas Fitting|
Michael is right about the bayonet.
As for the rest, my understanding is that if you're working on your own gas installations in your own home, the crucial requirement is that you be "competent". Whether this means that [to do gas work in your own home] you have to be currently Gas Safe registered is something there appears not to be absolute clarity on.
The rub is that even if "competent" is enough, there's always the chance that you might be called on at a later date to demonstrate to certain authorities that you are/were competent.
|Thread: Recommended suppliers and services|
Just out of interest, Buffer, is it your belief that none of the drills Drill Service sell are made in China?
|Thread: Are we being listened to on the phone|
John, though highlighting such points of equivalence is always laudable, I think we should be careful to remember the dissimilarities too.
What is crucial is not merely the level of surveillance a country's citizens are exposed to but the consequences for them of that surveillance - specifically whether legal protections are in place against injustice, particularly state injustice, arising from that surveillance. It essentially boils down to how free or how repressive the society you live in is.
There may not be that much difference between the amount of surveillance different countries expose their citizens to, but there is a world of difference between the sort of life that surveillance allows people of different countries to lead.
It depends where in the world you happen to be.
I've never experienced this problem as I don't own a smart phone and never intend to own one, but if you have any social media accounts, Steve, [e.g. Facebook, Instagram] is there a "use my microphone" option on these accounts you can turn off? This may help.
|Thread: High temp.-tolerant filler needed|
Thanks, Jason. I'll practise my burning-in technique. Doing it that way may save some mither in the long run.
Thanks, Michael. I've ordered some of the standard colour and will give it a go.
That would be a bit risky, Jason, as the tang is silver-soldered to the type chamber, and the joint between the two is milled perfectly square on one side to accept a stepped screw-on mounting boss for a central adjusting screw. Any movement at the joint at this stage would be pretty disastrous. Burning in for me is also a bit more unforgiving with regard to getting a handle perfectly straight, but I accept that others may be much more adept at this method than I am.
It's apparent from the dozen or so secondhand typeholders I own that the handles very often do work loose. I think this is almost always due to users leaving their typeholders on the stove for too long and scorching out the hole in the handle. I say this because in my own case typeholders with wooden handles I bought new twenty-five years ago show no loosening of the handle, and I assume this is because I never leave them on the stove longer than is necessary. Asbestos handles have been tried over the years instead of wood, but they've never been popular.
Edited By Bill Phinn on 25/03/2021 13:19:15
I want to fill the gap that remains after fitting between the tapered rectangular-section brass tang of a tool and the round hole it is inserted into in a wooden handle. The tool in question is a bookbinder's hand typeholder.
I've made several of these and have used several different fillers, none of which completely meets my needs.
The primary requirements of the filler are that it:
Standard JB Weld meets the temp. tolerance requirement but is the wrong colour.
JB Weld Wood Weld is the right colour but not remotely temp. tolerant.
Ronseal two-part epoxy wood filler is a good colour, gives a very firm bond, but is also not sufficiently temp. tolerant.
Everbuild wood filler is a good colour but a little too crumbly once dry and yet again not sufficiently temp. tolerant.
If anyone has a suggestion for a filler, whether commercially available or home made, I'd be grateful to hear of it.
Edited By Bill Phinn on 24/03/2021 21:08:47
|Thread: JB Weld|
Am I the only one whose monitor shows Ramon's mixed JB Weld as a brownish mud colour? The standard stuff I've used has always been grey.
|Thread: Axminster tools to discontinue their engineering courses.|
I've had it from the lips of more than one Axminster Tools employee that demand [for merchandise and training] from woodworkers has traditionally been much higher than demand from metal workers.
Maybe it's that firstly there are higher entry barriers to taking up metalworking than woodworking, and secondly most routine home DIY work involves little metalworking but quite a bit of woodworking. Even professional house bashers don't show much need for metalworking equipment.
|Thread: RH vs LH threads|
In case it's not already been mentioned, the reason has to do with what's termed hypocyclic fretting precession.
|Thread: Aldi Scheppach bandsaw|
It looks like you may have radically misconstrued my contribution to this thread, Steve.
It says only the word "Germany" in big letters on my box. In much smaller letters it says "made in China".
|Thread: Problem with DRO's memory or with mine?|
Many thanks for your replies, Nigel G., Nigel B. and Dave.
Nigel B., I've spent some time looking at both the manuals in your links, and also a pdf from Chronos, which covers a different kind of DRO from mine but discusses the use of the REF button for retrieving an origin after power off in some depth [starting at 3.9]. Sadly, none of this has so far assisted me in replicating finding an origin as set out in the short video I linked to in my post of yesterday.
Dave, I'm not sure I've understood your post properly, but the video I linked to ["DRO PROS demos Power Off Memory"] is showing you how to recover a zero that is effectively lost after a power off during which the table was moved; as far as I understand it, no onboard battery or other alternative power source is required to enable a recovery of this kind; you simply access a reference datum point built in to the DRO scale. My inability to access a ref. datum point on my own DRO appears to be where I'm coming unstuck.
Edited By Bill Phinn on 12/03/2021 18:56:47
Apologies for my necro-reply to this, Nigel; I've only just got round to giving it due attention.
I looked at a video corroborating what you say.
A problem I have is that, contrary to your and the video's description, there is no "ref" key on my DRO [see pic].
I'd hoped my manual might clarify what to do instead, but it doesn't really. On p.11 ["Methods of finding mechanical origin"] it says:
"Move the raster ruler to the position which is initially set up as the mechanical origin [not sure what this position is], and then enter into the select page of Segmented compensation. Choose Find_ZE and press ENT to the interface for choosing compensation method, press ENT the interior of digit display meter handles automatically. At this time finish finding the mechanical origin and quit the absolute co-ordinate system automatically."
It goes on, in a similarly cryptic style, with more instructions than I can quote here at the moment.
In order to try and get to the "Find_ZE" point indicated on p.11, I previously tried following the instructions on page 8 relating to "segmented error compensation":
1). "Move the raster ruler to the smallest end of the co-ordinate [not sure what is meant by that] and enter into ALE right-angle co-ordinate system.
The problem was that "Find_ZE" is not what came up on the display at this point, so I was unable to comply with the instruction on page 11 "Choose Find_ZE" , which I'd hoped might have allowed me to arrive, via an alternative route, at the outcome suggested by you and the video.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
|Thread: A Certain Age|
A crucial difference is that Latin is what is technically known as a synthetic language, having a large variety of terminal word inflections carrying crucial information such as tense, number, person, gender, mood, voice, and case (there being six, arguably seven, cases), all of which can be a nightmare to learn but does allow for very flexible word order, whereas English is an analytic language, in which inflection plays a much smaller part (there are only two cases, for starters) and more reliance is placed on the use of things such as prepositions, articles [“the”,“a/an"] and a relatively fixed word order to clarify meaning.
One of the unfortunate ideas we’ve not yet jettisoned (and native speakers of all languages are guilty of this, as far as I can tell) is the idea that there are absolute canons of correctness that can be appealed to to establish definitively whether any particular way of saying something in our native language is right or wrong.
Such absolutism is fine when you’re dealing with a corpus language such as Latin, in which a finite body of literature is necessarily the ultimate arbiter of how we're permitted to say something in that dead language, but with living languages we're all collectively both legislators and arbiters of how our language can be used.
This doesn’t mean that in a living language anything goes (usage, ultimately, will determine whether something is generally accepted or not), but it does mean a prescriptivist outlook [“This is right/That is wrong] is on shaky ground, particularly when no allowance is made for dialectal differences that make, for example, "We was/He were" rather than "We were/He was" perfectly standard in certain parts of the country.
It’s worth remembering also that the Classical Latin we know of, being largely formal literature, is quite an artificial construct, and almost certainly doesn’t faithfully reflect the way Latin was spoken by ordinary people of the time.
Edited By Bill Phinn on 10/03/2021 17:59:35
Posted by Bazyle on 09/03/2021 18:55:06:Not one iota << note use of latin
It's Greek, strictly speaking.
Partly tongue-in-cheek, I'm sure.
Actually, most English study at university is a study of the literature rather than the language*. It shouldn't be, in my view, since "knowing" even your own language well requires a lot more than just habitually speaking and writing it; just as most people who can drive a car don't know much about what's under the bonnet, most native speakers of a language have only a superficial understanding of the history, morphology, syntax and signification of the words they're using. It usually also means they "drive their car", i.e. use their language, less skilfully or sensitively than they otherwise might.
*I exclude linguistics subjects, but then the focus of linguistics courses rarely confines itself to the English language.
|Thread: Silver Soldering Flux?|
Perhaps it is simply that in a busy shared workshop a pot of mixed flux can get contaminated very quickly, with grungy brushes being dipped into it etc.
I keep some Easyflo mixed in a small lidded jar. After not being used for a while a few drops of water gets it to the right consistency very quickly. There might be molecules of the stuff in that pot that have been remixed countless times, but it still works as it should. I keep a few paillons of silver solder in the pot as well. I know they'll be guaranteed clean when I fish them out and usefully primed with flux.
Edited By Bill Phinn on 09/03/2021 16:52:47
|Thread: Drilling & tapping for a screw whose major diam. is undersize|
Many thanks for everyone's replies, especially for the heads-up on the three different kinds of threads that are a close approximation to M5 coarse. The screws were bought new, yes, from a Chinese eBayer, and advertised as M5, but I suppose that's no guarantee of conformity.
Howard, it is definitely not the drill cutting oversize, but thanks for mentioning it.
I have just bought a single BA2 tap off eBay for £2, and will see how it goes. Given the fact that I have another unexpected solution, explained below, it will be interesting if nothing else to have a go with the BA tap.
The unexpected solution is that the screw part of the thumb screw and the knurled nut are in fact "loctited" together.
This wasn't ideal anyway given that the screws are going to be repeatedly heated in use, and it now allows me to disassemble them and use either a known high-temp loctite or [what I'll probably use] silver solder to join a piece of M5 stainless studding in to the original thumb nut.
I've just heated two of the screws to a dull bronze colour and this allowed me to disassemble them easily with the help of mole grips on the screw and a leather-gloved hand on the knurling. Interestingly on both of them the part of the screw that is inserted into the blind nut has a 2.5mm hex recessed into the end. Possibly the hexes were originally intended to allow the screw to be tightened down into the nut, but not wanting to have to trim off the ends afterwards they just inserted them the other way round.
If I'd known the screws were going to be this undersize I'd have just bought the blind nuts rather than pay almost twice as much for the full screws.
Thanks for the suggestion, Michael. I'll have to price up a tap.
Some solution at least will be needed, I think: I have twenty of the thumb screws at £1.25 each.
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