By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Bill Phinn

Here is a list of all the postings Bill Phinn has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Soldering a front tube plate
19/10/2021 21:21:07
Posted by fizzy on 19/10/2021 17:33:55:

The flux is available from the cup twins...

Please could you provide a link for the flux.

Thread: SKY abandoning their satellite customers
10/10/2021 22:21:04

Can anyone tell me what sort of digging there has to be at a minimum to a front garden in order to lay a fibreoptic cable? I've been deterred from choosing fibreoptic until now because of the mess Virgin (or rather their contractors) wanted to make of my front garden in springtime with all my bulbs just coming into flower.

They were turned away at the scene, though wouldn't have turned up at all if Virgin had notified them, as they should have, that the customer had cancelled the contract four days before the scheduled visit.

Thread: (old) Proxxon BFW 36/E vs. (new) Proxxon BFW 40/E
05/10/2021 17:14:44
Posted by Grindstone Cowboy on 05/10/2021 09:47:19:

+1 on what Andrew said


I admire Andrew's tact for choosing "airily".

Edited By Bill Phinn on 05/10/2021 17:23:46

Thread: Hermes. A Company in Total Confusion!
05/10/2021 14:15:34

This sort of feckery is now par for the course in the post-Covid dystopia the younger generation particularly are going to need to adapt to or have the collective gumption to change.

Who is the seller, Alistair, or what platform are they selling on?

Thread: Crankshaft Factory
04/10/2021 01:20:06
Posted by john halfpenny on 03/10/2021 22:34:39:

Yes MichaelG, of course I saw 'Belarus' on the box, but your post doesn't answer the question

Does this help explain things further?

Thread: Silver soldering stainless steel
30/09/2021 23:41:49

Leaving aside the clearly contentious question of which flux and solder to use, I wouldn't want to have to use that torch for that job. It's probably doable, but I wouldn't relish it.

As a couple of us have suggested, matching torch size to the size of the job is particularly critical for successful soldering. A good initial choice for this and bigger jobs would be something like a Sievert Pro 3486 torch handle with a 2941 burner. Kits containing these plus hose, neck tube and regulator are available (in the UK at least) for scarcely more money than the cost of that somewhat limiting Bernzomatic torch.

30/09/2021 17:33:00
Posted by Keith Hale on 30/09/2021 17:18:01:

See personal message.

Let's not complicate things unnecessarily.

Hopefuly this intervention won't deprive the rest of us of hearing further about Chas' problem.

Thread: (old) Proxxon BFW 36/E vs. (new) Proxxon BFW 40/E
30/09/2021 15:45:48
Posted by John Smith 47 on 30/09/2021 15:23:23:

I never said, never implied and never meant that it was a dichotomy.

It's part of the nature of logical fallacies that people commit them without being aware they're doing so. This instance is no exception.

Thread: Silver soldering stainless steel
30/09/2021 12:10:21

It might be helpful, Chas, if we could see a picture or two of your soldering set-up and results. Aside from the question of the gap, other questions arise: is your torch big enough, the joint clean and adequately fluxed? Are you directing the torch in the right places, for the right amount of time, with the torch the right distance from the work?

If it was me doing the job, I would simply drill through with an 8mm bit to get the required clearance, expecting this to be a good basis for a viable joint with an 8mm tommy bar.

Soldering parts together when one part is significantly fatter than the other is only really tricky if you heat the two parts unevenly, by which I mean you get the two parts at the site of the joint unequally hot. Naturally, if one part is fatter than the other, getting the parts evenly hot may mean letting the torch play more over one part than the other. The best guide to whether the two parts are being evenly heated is their colour, and the behaviour of both flux and solder as flow temperature is approached.



Edited By Bill Phinn on 30/09/2021 12:20:25

Thread: (old) Proxxon BFW 36/E vs. (new) Proxxon BFW 40/E
30/09/2021 02:06:33

John Smith 47 said:

"If it really is so good, why is it no longer in production?"

That's a really good example of what's known as a false dichotomy.

Thread: Scam
28/09/2021 11:37:39

Nigel Graham 2:

"That it advertises on a site catering mainly for amateur engineers is rather suprising, but may reflect RapidDirect not really understanding that point."

Very likely to be the case, yes. In China the pursuit of creative hobbies is still almost non-existent, the general thinking being that if work doesn't make you any money why do it at all. Obviously there are very good historical and socio-economic reasons to explain why this attitude prevails there.

It's interesting to note the unevenness in the quality of the translations on the site.

Some pages are impressively well translated:

Others are predictably poor:

Thread: (old) Proxxon BFW 36/E vs. (new) Proxxon BFW 40/E
23/09/2021 18:28:44

Given that it's almost certainly been used in professional manufacturing for around twenty years, and that you can get a new BFW 40/E delivered for less than they're asking, I'd be looking to pay no more than a two figure sum - that's assuming I even wanted it.

Thread: What do you think of this con
22/09/2021 13:01:39
Posted by John Haine on 22/09/2021 10:35:10:

The interpretation of the conditions is down to the system software not the checkout staff or the store manager.

It is if you let it.

For those of us not yet ready to acknowledge we're living in the technolatrous dystopia you posit there, the interpretation of conditions of offers is, as it always has been, down to the meaning of the words in which the conditions are articulated. Since software does not understand, properly speaking, human language, it cannot reasonably be appealed to as an authority, whether interim or final, in this case.

Assuming Old Mart has not overlooked crucial parts of the conditions and failed to communicate these to us, the conditions are crystal clear and his position is vindicated. It looks like the shop staff either need some English language training, or, if they have been instructed to be guided by software's very imperfect powers of interpretation, more autonomy to act like thinking beings.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 22/09/2021 13:02:29

21/09/2021 21:15:43
Posted by old mart on 21/09/2021 20:04:14:

"Valid in store only, in a single shop. Not valid on alcohol only baskets". When I returned and queeried this, they were adamant that any alcohol automatically disqualified anybody using the voucher. What do you think of that?

I'm surprised at some of the replies you've received here. If what you've quoted is what the voucher said without further qualification, then the shop has been adamant on the point without any justification.

Your basket wasn't alcohol only. If what the shop meant was "any alcohol in your basket will not count towards the basket's total value" or "any alcohol in your basket will automatically disqualify you from entitlement to the offer whatever your basket's total value", then they should have said as much. It was you who were justified in being adamant, not the shop.

These things are happening more and more. Generally there is no need to look for an explanation that goes beyond ignorance on the part either of the people setting the terms of the offers or of the staff interpreting them, or both.

Thread: 5/8" BSP compression nut
17/09/2021 18:38:46

This is the nut in question, btw. It looks like it did consist of two parts, but in my case the olive has effectively welded itself to the inside of the nut:

buttrix joint samuelgratrixjnrbrothercca80597_0067.jpg


Edited By Bill Phinn on 17/09/2021 18:39:01

17/09/2021 16:34:30
Posted by DC31k on 17/09/2021 15:18:49:

JTM Plumbing

TB72 3458 5/8" BSP F to 3/4" BSP M bush

DZR02 1534 3/4" BSP F to 15mm compression

There wouldn't be enough room laterally to fit those in, unfortunately.

17/09/2021 14:21:50

An old but well made brass bib tap of mine recently started to weep at the water inlet compression joint. Dismantling it revealed that it consists of what appears to be a 5/8" BSP compression nut with an integral olive. The bore accepts 1/2"/15mm pipe.

I've replaced the tap with a ubiquitous 1/2" bib tap for the moment but I might like to reuse the old tap at some point.

Does anyone know where I can get 5/8" BSP compression nuts either with an integral 1/2" olive as originally or that accepts a loose 1/2" olive?


Thread: Wild life, bird watching and photography
09/09/2021 12:15:07
Posted by peak4 on 08/09/2021 23:55:11:

Lots of other stuff in my Flickr Account.


Very enjoyable to look at, Bill. I especially liked the dipper and the fungi...and the two whitethroats sparring on a later page.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 09/09/2021 12:19:34

Thread: I need to cut chamfers into x64 pieces of mild steel - any advice?
07/09/2021 18:44:19
Posted by John Smith 47 on 06/09/2021 23:07:20:One more question, what speed should I be using if I do use a Proxxon MF70 (which seems to spin at 5,000 to 20,000 rpm, albeit with (if memory serves) just a 100watt motor, so presumably the ability to generate a lot of heat but without very much torque...)

The slowest speed available, and with plenty of good lube such as Rocol RTD.

Posted by John Smith 47 on 06/09/2021 23:23:38:

Btw, it turns out the burrs are all the same price between 4mm and 8mm. Which would you advise me to use?

Yes, the price of all of them at Cookson is equally scandalous. HS Walsh would be a better source. To save money and to keep the speed down at the cutting edge I'd buy/use the 4mm ones.

If you do choose the Proxxon route with these burrs you're going to need to get on top of several things:

1. As the metal is very thin at 1mm you're going to have to have very little excess protruding from the top of the vice [yes, you'll need a vice] if you want to avoid chatter.

2. The burrs have fairly long shanks - too long, frankly, to give the required stiffness at the cutting end when held in the standard Proxxon collet. The solution is to cut the shank short to minimize stick-out.

3. You're going to need some way of clocking in your vice so that its jaws are perfectly parallel with long edge of the table. Once you've achieved this you'll be able to cut the chamfer on a long piece all in one go and cut it into sections of the desired length afterwards. For long runs I tend to use a cordless drill on the nut on the end of the x axis as a powerfeed.

06/09/2021 22:19:51
Posted by John Smith 47 on 06/09/2021 21:41:46:

You linked to an 8mm "Busch Burr 413 Stone Setting" tool on Cooksongold. Is 8mm the diameter you are recommending? Material "steel".

Presumably HSS would be better.

What would be the best material possible? What about tungsten vanadium?

The 8mm one will be easiest to set up [you'll have a comparatively long, easily sightable 45 degree slope to work off], but since the chamfer you need is only around 1.4 mm in extent, you can go down to a 4mm setting burr [I say this based on my own full set of Busch 413 burrs] and still do what you need to do with it.

It appears the Busch 413 burr range are made of tungsten vanadium steel

In spite of my mention earlier of HSS burrs as a potentially more long-lasting option than the Busch 413's, I don't actually know if "tungsten vanadium" burrs are inferior for your purposes to those varieties of the same style of burr described as "HSS". Other, more knowledgeable, forum members are in a better position to advise you on that.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 06/09/2021 22:21:31

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Support Our Partners
JD Metals
Eccentric July 5 2018
walker midge
rapid Direct
Eccentric Engineering
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest