Here is a list of all the postings Bill Phinn has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Aldi Metal Bandsaw|
I could try that, Pat, and if they don't send me a return label I might have to.
The only problem is it says on their website that they "do not accept in-store returns for products marked with a * on your delivery note", and my two delivery notes both show a * next to the item. Also, if you knew my local Aldi branch (in one of the most socially deprived areas of Manchester), and you were familiar first hand with the general level of enlightenment among the staff (not high), you would be doubly doubtful of success at getting a refund in the branch.
I disassembled the pivot assembly this morning. Basically it's been machined in such a way that when you snug down the axle bolt with the lock nut it pulls the saw into a slight skew and there is no means of compensating for this I can think of except shimming the base plate or reboring the hole for the axle (straight this time) and putting in a thicker bolt.
I've given up and initiated a return through Aldi, which is a saga in its own right, involving 6 phone calls so far, and we're not done yet. In response to my request for a pre-paid return label (none was included in the package, when it should have been, apparently) they've just unhelpfully emailed me a copy of the delivery note.
I've just put a square on the vice, with the saw blade near the bottom of its travel and the vertical of the square just touching the edge of the saw blade. I raised the saw up until the edge of the blade was level with top of the square - distance betweeen saw blade and square at the top was approx 3/16", whilst being zero at the bottom, hence the angled cuts I am getting. Am still hopeful of a solution before committing to a return.
Thanks for your reply, Ian.
I'm pretty sure the workpiece isn't moving; I cut half a dozen different pieces of material in succession and all showed exactly the same small degree of unsquareness (as seen in the pic) after cutting.
I can't really tell at this stage whether the blade lean is a fault with the blade twisting or is being caused by the support arm/pivot mechanism not holding the saw blade perpendicular to the base. I've tried to remove as much slop as possible in the pivot mechanism by tightening the 19mm domed nut at the pivot point as hard as possible to still allow unhindered pivoting up and down, but it made no difference to the blade lean. If the mechanism is what is causing the lean the only thing I can think of that might cure it is to put packing under one side of the arm's base plate, but I'm not sure how satisfactory a solution this would be.
Did you have an alternative idea about a fix for this?
I've just taken delivery of mine.
Either I'm being very stupid or the saw has problems.
First "problem" is that the vice jaws don't meet or clamp parallel. I took the fixed jaw plate off, and tellingly there was a grape-pip sized piece of swarf mashed between the jaw plate and its mount, but unfortunately removing the swarf only improved the problem slightly, it didn't cure it. Short of shimming the fixed jaw (am unwilling to) I can't see a solution.
Second problem is that the saw blade leans out, i.e.doesn't come down perpendicular on to the work. The outcome of this can be seen in the image with the square. The brass bar in this case was cut standing on its edge - partly to minimize the ferocious jaw lift when anything under about 1/2 inch thick is clamped in the vice.
Any advice would be appreciated.
|Thread: Anyone know about buying freehold to a house in the north|
Ian, can you reassure me that the company collecting the ground rent and making you the offer is not Simarc Properties Ltd?
|Thread: Drill running off course|
I've bought items from both of the immediately above companies. I was unfortunate to get a duff product from the first company on my first order but the customer service in dealing with the problem was very good. I've bought small diameter milling cutters from Rennie Tool and they were certainly good enough for my needs.
|Thread: Aldi Metal Bandsaw|
Thanks. That's good to know. I rashly assumed they'd be non-standard in some way.
I'd be tempted by one of these, as long as it can cut cleanly, squarely and reasonably quickly, and keep on doing so for longer than its guarantee.
"Saw blade 114cm" - interesting!
Does anyone know how much a replacement blade would be?
Edited By Bill Phinn on 26/09/2019 23:14:50
|Thread: Shell Petrol Can Puzzle|
Was there a separate cylinder (now missing) that fitted the cavity and held (4 stroke) engine oil for top-ups?
Mr Burtynsky is following in the tradition of artists such as Loutherbourg with his "Coalbrookdale by Night".
What both of them capture has been aptly described as the "horribly sublime".
|Thread: Propane regulator with intentional restriction?|
Many thanks to everyone for the further replies.
Taking my cue from Brian (eta: thanks, Bill - only just seen your post), I put the regulator in a vice so that I could get better hand leverage on the dial (I've got limited use in one of my hands). I'm pleased to say that it did turn further than 5 and after a few vigorous back and to turns it now opens all the way to 10, albeit with some difficulty (for me at any rate).
Brian and Meunier's talk of fires is prophetic; I was at my parents' house this evening and my wife was cooking on their twenty + year-old electric cooker when the cable connection at the rear caught fire shortly after the cooker had terminated with a loud bang. The flames were licking up the back of the cooker in quite a lively fashion by the time I opened up with the powder fire extinguisher.
Has anyone seen the mess it leaves when you've used a powder extinguisher in your kitchen? We were still cleaning up three hours later. I suppose, though, it wasn't as big a mess as it might have been if I'd not insisted on my parents keeping a fire extinguisher (two, in fact) in their house for just these sorts of eventualities.
Edited By Bill Phinn on 18/09/2019 23:10:57
Thanks for the link.
I take it, then, from Iain's reference in that thread to turning his regulator up to 7 that I should be able to turn my dial at least that far as well, and because I can't I have a faulty regulator.
Anyone that knows better, your insight would be welcome.
I've just bought a Sievert Pro 86 torch kit and it came supplied with an unexpected bonus item in the form of a "0.5-4 bar" regulator as pictured.
There is a dial that goes from 1-10, which I assume marks 0.4 bar increments. The only puzzle is that the adjustment knob cannot be turned beyond the 5 mark or thereabouts.
Is this because the manufacturer has limited the output to 2 bar on this regulator, do you think, and has done so because the standard nozzle/burner* that comes with the kit is designed to be run at 2 bar? Or is there a fault with the item?
I have two other 0-4 bar propane regulators and neither is restricted in this way.
*Much bigger Sievert nozzles/burners (that need 4 bar) can be fitted to this torch if required.
Edited By Bill Phinn on 18/09/2019 12:21:34
|Thread: PayPal Warning|
Ian, this looks to be a question of the funding source you have nominated. If you go into your Paypal account and make your default funding source a credit card instead of bank account, Paypal will then put charges on to your credit card rather than take payment directly from your bank account.
|Thread: mystery tool|
They look like tap reseating tools to me, Mal.
eta: beaten to it.
Edited By Bill Phinn on 11/09/2019 23:51:49
|Thread: Any one used a digital microscope for micro turning on a lathe|
The problem comes, Steve, when you really do need the extra magnification but would like to maintain a comfortable focal distance. Sadly, the most powerful Optivisor, the DA-10, with a magnification of 3.5X, has a focal distance of only 4 inches. I wouldn't feel too safe with my face only four inches away from a standard lathe chuck with its protruding jaws spinning towards me at so many 100s of rpm. In fact with most of the small stuff I'd typically need to be four inches away from in order to see it properly I'd be closer to the chuck than the workpiece by a distance effectively equal to the chuck's radius - too close for comfort.
For working on things ranging from four inches away to about two feet away (in other words, most things you'll typically work on in a workshop) I'd trade my presbyopia for Neil's myopia any day; people like Neil don't need five different pairs of reading glasses or five different kinds of Optivisor to be able to focus at all these distances (I've got five of both, and the need for the more powerful ones increases every year), nor do they need to mimic the archetypal old dodderer who spends half his day peering uncomfortably over the top of his glasses whenever he needs to take a quick glance at something that is further away than the thing he happens to be working on.
I would gladly stump up for some dental loupes if there was anywhere close to me where I could try them on and be sure they suited me. The mail-order firms with a try and return policy are all very well, but how many pairs would I need to try before I got the right pair or they got sick of me?
Edited By Bill Phinn on 09/09/2019 16:49:58
|Thread: Brazing torch|
If this is so, would Keith, or someone, be good enough to clarify for me why the recommended pressures given in this link for oxy-propane brazing are so much lower than this? Is it that air-fed propane torches (which perhaps Keith was focused on) need much higher pressure than oxy-propane torches?
For the record, I have this torch, and the pressure recommended by the retailer for brazing with the general brazing tips (the "multijet" nozzles) is 0.25 bar regardless of nozzle size. Only the so-called "superheating" nozzles (which only fit the larger torch I have, not the smaller brazing torches sold by the same retailer) are stated as needing pressures of 2 bar and beyond.
For general oxy-propane brazing work with this torch I use a Harris twin-gauge propane regulator (which indicates outflow pressure) and have been following the Welders Warehouse recommended pressures for the multijet nozzles up till now. Is it wrong to do so? Should the pressure be higher than the recommended 0.25 bar? Or are the pressures the WW recommend correct because Keith was talking about air-fed propane torches only when he said that brazing torches operate at 2-4 bar?
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Continuing with my garage floor, today I applied the final wearing surface, consisting of six bags of Ardex K80.
At £40 per bag, the cost is not for the squeamish, especially after you've already spent £300 on 14 bags of Mapei Ultraplan. The Ardex took considerably longer than the Mapei to go off, in spite of the blurb saying it is "walkable after two hours".
I plan to expoxy paint it in a week or so, after which, hopefully, I'll have a very smooth, very hard garage floor that will "see me out".
Yes, I completely see your point Bandersnatch if the non-availability of the item becomes clear only after the buyer has been left in eager anticipation of its arrival for a week or more, but I suspect that in quite a few cases the outrage comes on after a much shorter delay than that. Those were the cases I had in mind.
Really, I was trying to find a reason why sellers feel the need to send substitute items without telling you; fear of a customer backlash if the customer is informed, even on the day of purchase, of non-availability seemed like a plausible suggestion.
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