Here is a list of all the postings larry phelan 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fixed steady use|
As I expected there was a good response to my question. Some, I have already tried, others are new to me, all are welcome.
Yes, I did try setting the steady close to the chuck and then moving it along the bed, this produced the best results, although not perfect. I must admit I did not use my 4 jaw chuck, but will try that tomorrow.
The reason for the 600mm length is that is what is required for the job in question although it can be skimmed down slightly after mounting between centres.
Please accept my thanks to all who took the trouble to respond, as the say "Every little helps"
The workpiece is 50mm dia, so there is no way it can fit through the bore and being some 600 mm long, I do not like the idea of rotating unsupported while I try to drill it, I.m not that brave !
I will have another go at it later. Thank you for your reply.
I am looking for advice about how to set up my fixed steady.
I have mounted a length of 50mm round in my 3 jaw chuck in order to centre
drill it for turning between centres later.
I tried to get the workpiece running true, not easy, owning to the long overhang, ,then tried setting the steady close to the chuck.
Problem is that when I move the steady to the other end of the work, it is anything but true.. It is quite clear I am doing something wrong, but what ?
I would appreciate any advice and comments, good or bad, because I,m sure I am missing out on something simple.
Thanks in advance.
|Thread: Aldi type bench drill|
My thanks to both of you for your time and interest.
As I said, the machine is quiet good considering the price I paid for it and it does, more or less what it says on the box, it*s just annoying. I use it mainly for drilling small holes about which I,m not too fussy. I do have a bigger Twain drill some 30 years old which is more or less dead on. It*s just that at times it is handy to have two drills up and running.
I will take another look at the problem and in the meantime, thank you both for your reply.
It*s the old story you get what you pay for !
Good afternoon all, I have a question which I hope some of you will be able to help with.
I have an Aldi bench drilling machine with which I am quite happy except for one thing. I find there is a little vertical play in the quill which I find annoying..
What I want to know is, how do I go about removing the quill to see if I can fit a packing piece to take up the slack.
I have removed the pulley block and found a large circlip which seems to retain a bearing. Do I need to remove the return spring unit as well as the screw which engages with the groove in the right hand side of the quill, and then, what ?
Any advice ?
Thanks in advance because I know someone out there has the answer !
|Thread: Home Made "Inserts" -Feelin' Groovy.|
I have found old hacksaw blades to be almost as useful as new ones, since they make perfect grooving tools.
I have used broken standard 12" blades and blades from power hacksaws, and have found them better than any insert, and a lot cheaper !, have even used them for parting, not my favourite operation.
|Thread: Thread Gauges|
I use my gauges all the time in order to check some of the oddball threads I come across from time to time.
This helps to avoid what we used to call "SAD STORIES" !!
|Thread: How useful is a 2inch machinist jack on my Sherline?|
I bought two of them many moons ago, never really found much use for them, still in the box !
|Thread: coolant pump|
Check that there is coolant in the tank to begin with !
Sounds silly ? not so, been there, done that !
If the tank is full, check that there are no valves closed and that the pump is running the right way [simple things mean a lot ! ] These pumps are usually trouble free, so it has to be something simple
As an aside, the pump fitted to the cooling system on my bandsaw, came from a clapped out washing machine. Still working after ten years or more.
|Thread: How hot does the motor on your mill/lathe run?|
Not sure about mill motors, but the motor on my cheapy bandsaw does run quite hot. I thought this was not quite right until I read the good book, whigh said that this was normal and nothing to worry about, but I still dont like putting my hand on it. It,s a Chineese motor but has never given any trouble.
Now, the motor on my Lux mill, 1*5 hp never seems to get hot even after long runs, neither does the motor on my Craftsman lathe, so could there be an issue with tight bearings ?
|Thread: lathe part supplier asking questions over my head...help|
I bought two sets, convex /concave from China for pence [or cents ! ]
Very simple to use.
|Thread: Is Buying a used live steam loco cheaper than building one?|
I thought the whole attraction and idea was to build your own model ?
I do not have either the skill nor the patience to build one, but I admire those who do.
However, as others have pointed out, you do need a fair bit of gear to do so.
|Thread: Chosing a drill grinding attachment or machine|
Like Gary, I bought a simple unit made by Martex, driven by a hand drill which works very well.
Setting and operation are much the same and the results are quite good enough for my needs.
Anything is better than a box full of blunt drills
Not "Top-of-the-range", but for the price, not too bad.
|Thread: Is your spindle bore large enough?|
My Craftsman lathe has a 38mm bore and roller bearings and seems quite happy about it.
Also, the larger bore does come in handy from time to time.
All things being equal ,I would go for the bigger bore.
|Thread: 4 jaw chucks|
Do the lathe makers not supply a 4 jaw chuck with the machine, or even as an extra?
Also, what happens when you need a faceplate ?
|Thread: Tolerance for needle bearings?|
Not sure if this will be of any help, but here goes anyway :
Some time ago ,I built a workshop hoist after the style of one made by Dave Fenner some years ago.
This design made use of U shape sections for the uprights, with the rollers within the frame and the table/seat overhanging to one side. This unit uses a wire rope winch to raise the table but there is no reason why it might be power driven. My hoist seems to work quite well although the rollers are just plain bar.
The main point is that the support sections do not flex in any direction even under 50kg loads.
I do not claim that this is my idea, but it might be worth looking at. I think there is a picture of it in my album
|Thread: Bits and Pieces in old magazines|
This is where the best bits are found.
|Thread: Another knurling tool|
I made a knurling tool some time ago, not nearly as good as yours, but same type, mainly because I did not like the push type. I think they are too hard on the lathe, much better to operate under and over.
Looking at your model, I am tempted to make something like that to replace my rough and ready unit.
Very nice job !
|Thread: Do you clean up your rough end|
Yes, I always do, if only to save myself from nasty cuts later on. I t only takes a few seconds to do it and it pays off. I always round off sharp corners ,where it can be done.
Also, it helps to make the job look better, something that*s often required with my efforts !
|Thread: smooth cut in brass|
Sparey goes into some detail regarding tool shape for working brass. They are not the same as those for steel.
Might be worth checking it out.
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