Here is a list of all the postings Zan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Electronic Lead Screw Project|
I will be mounting the motor at the tailstock end Drawings available from Jeffrey.co.uk. Just select the below n google it ......Im not sure doing the modification to the leadscrew bracket or putting the thrust bearings in will be really required as I intend to leave the gearbox in position. At some time in the distant future, the electronics may fail and all the units will be obsolete. I may buy a second processor and led&key board and program both when the whole system is up and running
Myford ML-7 lathe CNC conversion - Part 1: Leadscrew
david, any rotary encoder will only be fitted to a servo motor, otherwise the clough42 system is open loop if a stepper is used. The encoder in the system is for synchronising the leadscrew and spindle, it’s mounted at the headstock
i am also considering adding a separate arduino system to stop the saddle ar two exact points, at the start an end of its movement and linked to the encoder z to give spindle sync. This will be similar in principal to the meek and cleve leadscrew dog clutch system
Edited By Zan on 29/11/2019 09:48:19
Edited By Zan on 29/11/2019 10:02:54
Pekkka, I had forgotten about that git hub list. Thanks!
Phil. That seems better than waiting from a China delivery for the encoder, but the one I have found on eBay is a bit light on specification
You can change the pulse count because clough42 gives the information in the video about getting the software he rings two important bits of data, the no of pulses and the tpi ( pitch in metric I seem to remember). Only viewed it once
Ah... there’s two postings unseen on this page!
just got got to get all the components before I really start
Edited By Zan on 28/11/2019 18:24:46
Time to get the encoder, but a couple of important questions.....
1). Does it need to be incremental or absolute
2). pnp, npn, or open collector *2 output., which I think is best as it gives A and B with not A and Not B which I think will give the 4 times count so that a nominal 1000 pulse can be increased close to the cough42 ( 4092(?). The exact pulse count is set within the setup of the software
I will be ordering from China which has a long lead time, or the cost is at least 4 times greater
Edited By Zan on 27/11/2019 13:40:59
Me! But not really started yet
Ordered mine from mouser.co.uk.
|Thread: Tailstock indexing|
Mechman, That’s what I intended to do, but your tailstock is flat topped , the old design of the S7 makes the mounting a lot more difficult and would need the casting to be drilled and/or a flat machining at the correct angle
sorry it’s upside down.
Uses a simple terry clip, a bit of case binding steel strip as it’s springy and a 4 ba bolt with 3 nuts. Just file a notch and a point in the strip. The ruler enables both metric and imperial by just rotating the lot. Normally stored in the lathe tool drawer . I like to think the resolution is as good as I can mark out with a rule and scribing block, so very good!
one day I will machine a placement for a pair of pillars to get rid of the spring in the ruler . I would love to find a ruler which is graduated from the right or even mount the plastic digital calliper I bought years ago but this solution is so simple and there’s more interesting things to do! The tape gets sticky and needles replacing every 3-4 years..... in use just move the point to a suitable starting place and work to the depth you need. So so simple, but nothing like the highly elegant solution Graham Meek will provide us with!
Edited By Zan on 25/11/2019 15:04:53
Edited By JasonB on 25/11/2019 15:06:04
|Thread: Precision Tool Vice Type 2|
I have been following this thread with amusement. While the extent of the knowledge of some posters in many of the threads is amazingly fantastic it just proves that at times advice can be contrary to just having a good look at all purchased kit just to see what the actual limitations of usage are, to check for problems and at the same time check its accuracy . My type 2 vice won’t be modified for a while as it is semi permanently mounted on a squared sub plate push fitted into to a central trough to give immediate positioning along or across the table as recommended by Marcus Bowman in his recent cnc book. The only reason to remove it will be for the rare use on its edge. The sub plate can get gouged as much as it wants without any problem.
Solutions are often so simple as has just been proven!
Edited By Zan on 25/11/2019 14:30:42
|Thread: Electronic Lead Screw Project|
Magic. I’m on it
|Thread: View on this milling machine please|
Interesting machine with a huge quantity of tooling I’m interested! —- not really! Suggest if it’s purchased to get a three phase vdf to give a bigger range of speed flat belt drive ain’t good and speed range must be limited It may be time consuming to switch between vertical and horizontal mode
very solidly built, looks to have not much travel in y direction from photos, but very solid looking wide dovetails
|Thread: What scale to make a Steam Wagon 3"? 4"?|
As the owner of a 3” waggon I can say go for a 4”. I cannot leave my engine for more than 5-10 mins or the fire will die or water level will be too much or little. I get very jealous of the 4” wagons, where they can be left for a quite long period and even going to the bar to get a pint and the chip shop in one session without the danger of the above problems
trailer? Mine is 6’x 3’-6“ x 4’ high and is rammed full with kit , driving trolley, coal , tools , lighting up kit, dirty clothing etc. They are essential or you need a substantial van so that is not anything to consider
a lot of found components can be easily adapted for a 4”, diff, small car wheels etc. This depends on the level of accuracy you aspire towards.
3” in comparison are rather delicate and also it’s very difficult to clean in the cab as space is very very tight
edit.... in addition you sit in a 4”, much more fun than sitting on the smaller 3” go for . When I started building mine it was a big engine. Now it’s the baby at almost all the rallies I go to
Edited By Zan on 22/11/2019 20:51:45
Edited By Zan on 22/11/2019 20:55:37
|Thread: Rake angle on Cutting Tools.....memory tips???|
As long as you have clearance then many of the rake angles can be condensed into a very small number of iterations. If you look at the link and view the table, most of them give very similar numbers, and a lot give ranges, most of which cross over so single tools will cater for multiple materials.. the only real exception is for brass or plastics, but even with these I have successfully turned them with steel angle tools..
Most quoted angles are for industrial practise where time is critical to balance with tool life , far less important for us. In addition few so called high speed steel tools are now used in industry, they are too too slow and inaccurate (from a resetting point of view when re grind is needed, tips replace quickly to precise position) in this modern age of high speed production
I’m hearing so much about tangential tools it’s time I joined the family!
|Thread: Remote speed control pendant|
I have 4 inverters in my shop, all with remote controls. They are all connected differently so it’s vital to consult your manual for the correct data. In addition. Each needed a different set of parameters which need to be programmed in to enable correct operation. Research your documentation, some of which is highly complex, it’s just about taking your time to filter out all the superfluous to be left with the needed data. It’s not that difficult just time consuming!
|Thread: Lathe boring tool - top rake?|
Robin, the hole is bound to taper if there is any rubbing of the tool below the cutting edge as each bit of the bore taper will provide the starting point for the netxt bit which is thus cut smaller and smaller bore.as the tool is pushed further towards the lathe axis. Your dia 12* 15 deep is not small at all I have today bored one at 9 mm 25 deep without any taper finishing with the exact slide fit I required. I didn’t trust the reamer as they are made to cut to nominal size plus a small manufacturing tolerance so that there is a close fit on a shaft of the same actual nominal diameter.
With small tools, the slightest rounding or poorly executed final honing can cause real problems . Following this boring action I had to produce an o ring groove 20 mm down. I initially had problems with the tool not cutting properly. With a powerful jewellery magnifier, it was traced to rubbing where the edge tip had been given a tiny radius on the edge to provide the correct toot radius to the groove. I used with a diamond lap and it was fouling . I had to make a new tool bit n finished with a lot more care and this performed perfectly this bar was dia 6 with a 3 mm round cutter
so check your tool with great care !
|Thread: Interface PCB for the ELS project|
Sounds good Phil do it!
Currently had an idea for the buttons, by finding a cheap calculator with round buttons n taking it apart It will need you to have the led&key board or a template with you when purchasing to check on the spacing
already looked at an old bank card pin sentry it looks good all the keys are mounted on a single rubber pad which will be cut to size when Iv got the other bits!
|Thread: 3 phase motor|
Check that it’s a dual voltage motor if you intend to use a 240 v vdf. The plate will tell you
|Thread: Lathe boring tool - top rake?|
Inserted tools tend to be mounted high with the tip angled down enabling a larger dia bar or the ability to be used in a smaller bore. Same difference. In addition, the tips have small rake angles seen easily by examining one. This means they would foul the bore unless it was very large. Without this they would be very delicate.
Hss tools cut differently and can have a little rake, Too much will weaken the tool but they can also be set a little above centre height to enable better clearance, which unlike an external tool will improve things
in addition some think it is just a matter of dropping the height of the bar then rotating it upwards to put the tool back on centre height. This is a recipe fir disaster as the tool again will foul
i use a set of penny washers, bored at 3 then 5 mm intervals up to 30 mm . Each has a line scribed by the tool across it to indicate the centre line. It’s then very easy to see which tool will be suitable for a particular bore before it goes onto the machine the clearance of the tool or lack of it will be obvious
hss tools will bore quite well without any top rake
Edited By Zan on 18/11/2019 23:50:16
|Thread: Interface PCB for the ELS project|
Thanks , goods received. Looks good
Now I need to get the rest of the stuff. Trying to work out what to do with the buttons in the final case without being able to 3D print it. Clough42 has so much kit and availability of skill and knowledge indicated from viewing his videos .
I have been thinking about turning top hat bushes from plastic to fit from inside then they won’t pop out, then using some form of foam or soft rubber to provide the spring back, but all that is a long way off! My case will be bigger to house the digital inputs to the vdf
Im just wondering what others are planning to do , or have done.
How are people mounting the encoder and stepper on a myford?
Edited By Zan on 18/11/2019 19:30:55
|Thread: Preventing distortion.|
The late great John Stevenson showed us how to straighten a bent lead screw with a lever in his badgers workshop posts. So correcting any bend shouldn’t be too difficult, but it all depends on the exact material spec as Andrew says, and also the function of the part.
Todays update from Bodgers Lodge
Search for this thread, Long, but interesting reading
Edited By Zan on 12/11/2019 13:41:56
|Thread: Yet another 'which mill shall I buy'|
Re Bridgeport versatility and moving it
mine with. 42” table came in on a pallet truck through a standard door . The head was upside down to get it low enough to get under the door. The table was then fitted after positioning.
when I extended the workshop, I had to move it 25 ‘ and rotate it 180 degrees. This was easily accomplished in a couple of hours on my own by sliding on steel strips and round bars using a standard crow bar to lever it a n inch or so at a time, it wasn’t difficult, just needed a lot of care to keep fingers out of the way.
i have only used the head twist tor nod once in 15 years but the extending head enables very tall pieces to be drilled( boiler backhead) when it’s sat on the top of the knee to get the head room and in addition a very large job which was hung over the front. The auto down feed is not oft used, but combined with the boring head it’s indispensable., e.g boring/ fly cutting the base of a 7/14” chimney base makes this a very straightforward task.
The rotating column is brilliant , I keep a heavy vice well on the left of the table, an accurate swivel vice for most use in the centre, leaving a couple of feet on the right for 8” rotary table or dividing head. I leave two ring spanner’s almost permanently mounted so a 1/4 turn will release it to swivel the rotated to the extremes . The right one is also used for the draw bar so it is also in a handy storage position.
I also haven't used the quill master Don’t worry about metric or imperial machine. Mine is an imperial machine, but it has a metric table screw, I didn’t find this out for 10 years as I always use the dro converting to single phase was not difficult but needed a lot of head scratching and a couple of new contactors at 240 v and removal of a lot of the overload fuses.
my advice is simple. Get the biggest xxxxxxxx you can fit in your shop!
Edited By Zan on 12/11/2019 13:32:18
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