Here is a list of all the postings Zan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Fly cutter face angles|
It’s called a right hand tool because it cuts from the right, and leaves a shoulder on the right of the workpiece ( when in the machine)
|Thread: Yet another scam|
I’m an old man and my son is a financial adviser and he doesn’t let me use the computer
its compromised you need to switch it on
how do I do that?
press the button
whats a base unit?
then. Change voice from old man
WHO DO YOU THINK YOU ARE TROUBLING MY DAD HES 92 AND HAS NEVER USED A COMPUTER. ….etc etc
great fun if you have half an hour to waste…..
|Thread: CNC conversation or pro made?|
The Warco machine was too big for me, there just wasn’t the space for it, when I converted mine but it lis also a very capable machine and significantly heavier build but many of my details could be simply modified to fit this machine but the spindle max speed is a bit on the low side, I sped mine up to 3400 and that’s only just fast enough, you tend to use smaller cutters and leave the machine on its own ( or at least that’s the theory, as they are so fascinating to watch),!
Added. with a 3 k budget the Warco machine is too expensive
Edited By Zan on 16/09/2021 14:06:09
I covered the conversion of my sieg sx2p in ME 17 parts from 18 aug 18 To 22 nov 19. It covered problems I had with the basic machine , which we’re not difficult to fix , (the machine is very capable], mechanical conversion, adding ball screws, electronics using cnc for you components (Mostly simple point to point wiring), commissioning and examples of use
where are you based? Send me a pm if you like.
I think the problem with the Denford is the small envelope esp in the z axis. There are not many choices availiable for finished machines, I would not touch the emco machine because it has a m3 taper tarter than the R8 in the sieg. The other alternative is the tormach, 770 for a bigger machine or the 440 for something smaller. the problem with this is the cost of importing, although I understand there is a U.K. dealer being set up. I didn’t have the room for the 770, but do now alert the workshop was almost doubled in size. It takes a lot of z height when say drilling when you have sub tables and vices to consider.
Edited By Zan on 16/09/2021 14:05:00
|Thread: Saving the Planet … or is it ?|
It may be only 1 watt, but I bet there’s a lot more than 100 mil televisions alone on standby at the moment Perhaps a lot more. Just work that out.
|Thread: Workholding Problem|
Soft jaws! Soft jaws and I repeat again!
Or rough turn a top hat bush and slit it lengthwise a with a 1/16 saw.
Fill cut with brass strip,
Mount in Chuck carefully matking the position of jaw 1
bore to fit the castellated spigot
remove brass strip refit to marked jaw and forget your problems
this method will give far more accurate results than er chucks top hat bush needed for axial location. Perhaps long winded, but it will give the sort of results you cherish
Edited By Zan on 12/09/2021 14:07:41
|Thread: General sharpening direction help|
Double angles on chisels etc are there to make the final honing on oilstones easier and quicker so there is less chance of rounding the edge with less material removed to get them sharp. Chisels a have burr and is removed by a quick running on the edge of the wooden housing for the stone along ithe edge length. The old workers with leathery hands would then use their hands as a strop as indicated above. When sharpening a classroom set of chisels one becomes very quick at the sharpening process and the pre grinding becomes more important .
sharpening invariably caused burr due to the tool being moved in both directions on the stone. While your at it, a figure of 8 pattern will preserve the stone, and cause crossed micro scratches meaning less stropping is needed
|Thread: Cladding material|
D builder, Interesting, I hadn’t considered stainless.
It’s time to clad my small 7 1/4 loco boiler. The barrel is 12” long and dia. 6”
insulation will be a thin sheet of suitable material (1-3mm]
question is, do I use steel or brass. I have some 24 g brass in stock but it seems a but flimsy although it is about the size recommended by Martin Evans in his loco construction book.
Brass can be difficult to paint, in the long term while steel is a lot easier, but there is the possible problem of rusting due to weeping clacks or dribbling safety valves
in steel I would use 22, or 24g and in brass I think 20 or 22 would be better. Cost is not an issue.
Is there anybody with any experience of using steel, or do people think it’s a no no?
|Thread: Myford threaded chucks on a Rotary Table?|
This occurs when milling on the outside, and the Chuck will loosed. For pockets the Chuck is tightened
1 obtain opposite helix mills. Difficult to find and expensive Reverse motor
2 use straight sided silver steel endmills like d bits. Reverse run
3 drill through backplate register and fit a decent sized grub screw Dimple into the Mount. Or, fit a pin
4 make up a fitting which is bolted to the table going under the backplate and pressing hard against the Chuck fixing bolt , or fit a hockey stick shaped one into a cavity in the back of the Chuck if there is one fir chucks without backplate
this is a problem on my big dividing head when set vertical. Solutions above not possible, so constant pressure needed on the Chuck key to resist any tendency to resist any movement
this is why the horizontal spindle on either dividing head or rotary table is best in this situation.
like you I look forward to seeing other people’s solutions!
|Thread: Ok to grease Myford feedscrews?|
Rocol mts 1000 I think is the correct stuff, but I ran out a long while ago. It’s a graphite grease supplied in a tube. Can’t find any now So grease I think will be ok but not on the main leadscrew, that would enable too much dross to bond onto it and spear the half nuts
Edited By Zan on 28/08/2021 11:44:11
|Thread: Which is better Thompson or er collets|
You beat me! The cutter is locked when it hits the work piece causing it to rotate more slowly than the holder, thus screwing the collet taper out and locking against the cutter shank thus stopping further rpm drag
|Thread: Issue 4670|
That happened to my delivery a couple of years back, so it’s not a new problem
|Thread: Knurling tool|
Stevi. , o had one like that, but the arms were too weak with little metal either sine of the adjusting screw. They bent in use when the screw was tightened. Useless went in the bin. Got a really decent one engineer built, from a secondhand stall at donny
Edit. The poor autotype……
Edited By Zan on 05/08/2021 21:23:55
|Thread: Whissendine rally|
Thanks Jason. Got it. That was very quick!
Edited By Zan on 02/08/2021 19:28:00
Rally this weekend
Anybody got Ann’s number? Melton me website says get her number from Facebook. Don’t do it, won’t do it
Thanks , perhaps best to pm it to me if you have it
|Thread: Allchin 1 1/2” scale Traction Engine Shaft Manufacture|
I made the cutter as indicated by Hughes, it worked perfectly, the gear hub slid on without the sleigh test bit of binding. Still got the cutter somewhere in my specials box!
|Thread: cylinder bore lapping|
Try some “Time saver lapping compound “ expensive, but outstanding performance and it’s non embedding so will not cause any long term problems. Google it
Edited By Zan on 29/07/2021 18:09:14
|Thread: Stuart Twin Victoria (Princess Royal) Mill Engine|
Ah. Your beginner status shows again, but Iv been following your posts and your level of skill is impressive!
t bar, a very long t nut with tapped holes for the studs. Mine for the S7 are 4,2 and 1 inch long with holes tapped every .5” or so they spread the load and minimise the risk of damage. Also be careful the x slide is not bent when the clamps are tightened too much. I’ll provide a sketch of the clamping outlined above if you didn’t fully get it
The problem with a strap clamp like yours is that all the down force could be on a single pimple point on the valve face, thus you only have in effect one clamping point with a very high force on it. This makes them a bit of a problem compared to 4 clamps . Do be certain to use t bars not t nuts or there is a real risk of breaking the t slot in the cross slide, there wupill be considerable force on them
Edited By Zan on 27/07/2021 09:14:38
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