Here is a list of all the postings Zan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lathe controls position|
My vdf and DRO controls on the Myford are above and behind the tailstock. Keeps me away from the mess and you get a better view of the workings. Found it to be very convenient, but stil have to reach fir the clutch!
|Thread: Does anyone know where I can source a Myford 34t change gear?|
Got mine at the Fosse from Myford/RDG. They had loads
|Thread: Skyhooks - an overhead solution|
I used to use the same sort of thing, but now they are in the bin you will magnetise the tools when drawing them off the holder ruined a very good expensive calliper this way. Don’t do it. Use wood with drilled holes.
Edit I hate autotype
Edited By Zan on 29/01/2019 00:30:03
|Thread: Myford 33t and 34t gears for metric threads|
The conversion set is a waste of money when the simple purchase of two gears will do to all intents and purpose the same job - provided you have a gearbox! All to often people quote micron level differences in pitch or diameters which are impossible to produce on a crappy lathe like a Myford...... ps I love mine, but it is not a tool room lathe.....
|Thread: Filing A Curve|
a plane is to cut it must be razor blade sharp. Putting it face down means that it will be in contact with a bench which may have hardened glue etc. bonded to it so any pick up which moves the body will blunt it against this rubbish. So it makes sense to put it on its side. What... you say. My bench has no such rubbish! It’s perfectly smooth! Ok I say don’t damage the bench then with a sharp plane blade....but if it’s like my bench it’s piled with tools so putting it on it’s side means that it cannot be put onto another tool which could and I say could damage the fine edge and produce ridges in any planed work. Why take the risk? The old practise of putting any plane on its side was and still is good practise
A sharp plane will really sing to you when used. When used on a hard tough wood it won’t take long to need honing why take the risk?
Edited By Zan on 29/01/2019 00:12:16
Edited By Zan on 29/01/2019 00:14:28
|Thread: Mystery Willard Lathe Tool|
My version has the disc held on a serrated spigot to enable it to be rotated to the helix angle of the thread
Edited By Zan on 05/01/2019 20:55:46
|Thread: Angle checker|
Mike , my special drawer is called a workshop and it’s full. it’s all important stuff and carefully stored, the trouble is I can’t get the door open as it’s crammed full. I’m too afraid of throwing stuff out so I can get in, cos I know for certain I’ll need it next week. The special drawer is furthest from the door. I started filling it 20 yqars ago and it just overflowed......🙄🤪.
Try looking in the shed where you keep the large lumpe of
by the way, Yesterday i just used a piece of stainless I got from a scrap shop fitting obtained in the late 80’s. It was perfect...........had to shape it with the workmate in the garden once I’d levered the hacksaw out......
|Thread: Involute cutters|
Pressure angle is not a problem, but if you change from 8dp. All the gear centres will need to be adjusted, so as Andrew says, a big redesign needed
|Thread: Milling on the ML7|
Chris Rayward (writing as Hotspour) described his 7/14” well tank in EIM in the late 90’s into the norties. He did it all on the Myford, mainly without using a v slide, he just used packing under the toolpost. So it can be done,.
You need to think about things with great care.
But there are some cracking very small Sieg millers which with care don’t take up much room .. milling in the lathe is a pain to set up, not easy too see what’s going on, often limited in travel. I did a fair amount years ago but not any more thank goodness!
|Thread: Easy way to centre rectangular shape in 4-jaw|
Not done it..... shame you have had bad experiences with the sc. 4 jaw. Mine is brilliant, but non round stock? Bdms is quite round I have experienced no problems.. often people are expecting micron precision for the price of a bacon butty .
I can take a piece of work out, put it back ( which I avoid at all costs) and it’s within 1 thou without any special precautions , I like bacon but my chuck is a basic level TOS chuck and I stand by the accuracy statement
If you use extra pieces to bulk out to a square shape for the 4 jaw s.c chuck, double sided tape is a great aid to hold it all together while setting up. Still think the faceplate is best though
Edit, ...blasted autotype with technical terms on the pad!
Edited By Zan on 22/12/2018 00:44:39
|Thread: Holding work on the cross slide|
Agreed drill and tap the x slide and fit anti swarf plugs, you don’t want dross falling into yjrpe slide internalsOr fit a 6 mm plate on top. Don’t make a new x slide, too much work for a single job at some point buy a miller
Do not cut slots in the slide at has been designed as a single solid unit and will weaken it. A set of holes will give great versatility
Edited By Zan on 22/12/2018 00:28:28
|Thread: Easy way to centre rectangular shape in 4-jaw|
As you have a lot of them, set it up on an angle plate on the faceplate. With the angle plate level you can set the height with a pin In the tailstock, same diameter as the thickness of the part. Get the first one then central and you can get the Have a loose clamped stop ready along the side and fix it when all is in place.
The result is only having to set up once, all the rest will be positioned by the stop.
Edit re 4 jaw self centring chuck
A self centring 4 jaw is useless here it’s a rectangular component , but you don’t use it often! Wow. Mine is on almost all the time. It gives a better hold on the stock than a 3 jaw esp when threading anything bigger than M6 and contrary to popular belief you can hold hexagonal as you grip it on 4 points of the stock. My 5” is in constant use. It’s also a highly accurate chuck
Edited By Zan on 21/12/2018 13:30:57
|Thread: Arduino: pandoras box or cool bag of tricks, MEW dec, no. 275|
Thanks! Spent an age typing it in, no joy!
Hi. Interesting reading, but the reference at the end under ‘Web and YouTube” nothing ....
The text says search for “Arduino z axis control produced many hits”. nothing found anything close to relate directly to this topic.
The photo 8 on p 70 shows some code, where is this to be found? Has anybody else found any more?
|Thread: Drill Speed|
A 1” drill would need a sizeable machine. Saw a massive scrap radial machine last week. Must have weighed 4 tons, the column was at least 18” diameter. The speed said 75 rpm for a 3” drill
Big machine, and serious clamping of the work needed! My of fobco bench drill vas a fitted vdf. Magic ! Well worth the money, never had it on the right speed before, and changing speed was such a faff it stayed on one most of the time. Speeds in general look ok to me
Edit. Autocorrect. Fed up with it!
Edited By Zan on 15/12/2018 23:56:28
|Thread: Mini Lathe Rear Tool Post|
On my s7. I had a real roolpost but it really got in the way and sold it
The saddle had to be wound a long way back when measuring, a problem when the tailstock support was being used, not enough room to use a tailstock die holder without the danger if impairing my hands. A lot of winding of the cross slide to get it into position. Too many problems. Yes it did work well, but not as well as the 2 mm inserted tip version I now use without any problems in the normal toolpost. I wouldn’t have one.
Access on a mini lathe will m be worse it will get in the way. But enjoy the task of drilling and tapping your nice cross slide......
|Thread: Telephone / Internet Scams|
If iv got time, I play a senile old man( not difficult) when asked to switch computer on and put on an old slow voice
How do u do that? It’s me soms. He’s a financial adviser you know. He don’t like me fiddling with his computer, never used it. After half an hour trying to switch on and log in ( I’m in the workshop doing fine detail stuff) I change voice.
Who do you think you are? My dad is 96 stop bothering him.
But the best solution is to permanently leave the answer machine on usulaay they hang up as soon as it clicks in, but there’s one who persistently wakes us up at 7:45. Who needs an alarm clock!
|Thread: Removing Grit after Lapping Ways|
That’s why you don’t lap slideways, use a scraper. Some of the grit will embed itself into the metal and some will get into the pores. Always use a non- embedding abrasive for lapping if you must do it. C I is dirty and it will darken the oil
Totally agree, not enough heat , torch too small not delivering the quantity needed but the temperature of the flame is enough to burn off the flux. I tend to find that easy flo flux is not as good as tenacity no5 type ( for extended heating and stainless) when working with steel fabrications. Add a drop or two of washing up liquid to the mix, it helps the flux to “wet” the metal and provides a small measure of cleaning action
Edited By Zan on 11/12/2018 13:39:26
|Thread: Western Steam|
My boiler from them took a very long time, but I ordered it at the start of the build so there was plenty for me to go at. The quality of the boiler is excellent and well worth the premium price and delay. If a boiler maker can supply a boiler with a short turnaround, does it indicate a lack of business? If so are they any good? Will it perform in 10 years?
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