Here is a list of all the postings Zan has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tempering Rivet Snaps|
As stated above, Dark straw is correct, or 245 degrees c you want them tough and hard but not brittle. This tempering in all hcs tools is a compromise between these factors.
|Thread: Southworth engines / pumps|
Southworth engines is now run by Bob Potter, telephone -------------------
Phone number removed as Blackgates have taken over.
Edited By JasonB on 20/08/2019 06:57:13
|Thread: Is Buying a used live steam loco cheaper than building one?|
As old crock says above it’s not just about buying it and running it. Something is always going wrong on them and a workshop will be needed to correct problems often by making new parts. But don’t let this put you off. Many clubs have good workshop facilities where some of this maintenance can take place, and there will be helping hands with advice.
Recently I purchased a good looking big but basic 5” tender loco. It ran beautifully on the static test bed where it came from, fully protected with a new boiler certificate although it did need a lot of tlc to get it to look good,( reflected in the price it needed a lot more detailing for me to really like it) As soon as I got it on the track, it was a different matter. It was terrible! A few new parts were made and fitted, but the result was only a marginal improvement so it went back for a full refund.
buying from eBay is risky. Here I would have been left with a loco which needed a major overhaul, the very thing I was avoiding the vendor may not accept a return
however, many in my club have purchased very sound locos which run well
|Thread: Any uses for an old tired lathe bed|
The point here is that the bed is stuffed so how could it be a ref. flat?
and yes myford beds are flat.
|Thread: Does anybody know what this is ?|
I find it amazing that so many people try to sell goods at big prices on eBay and can’t be bothered to even get the photos in focus!
|Thread: smooth cut in brass|
0.5 mm on dia 12 is a massive amount too high, but less significant at dia. 22 that’s the problem. And why the chips flew off correctly at the start of machining.
What type of tool is it carbide, interchangeable it Hs?
What shape is the tool?
what is the tip radius? Is it flat topped?
More information required for a proper answer. Perhaps if the shank of the tool is soft (test with the corner of a file, it should not slide over the tool) so it can be machined down so your tool post can use it otherwise it’s probably junk to you
Edited By Zan on 01/08/2019 16:53:30
|Thread: "I'm calling about your accident" - how does this scam work?|
1) always have the answer phone on. Usually when the dealer information says international ( 07xxx 0000000 the other day) or even spurious uk numbers hear the welcome message “ Hello we are not at home......” usually only gets as far as hello we..... all our friends know to shout up and we answer.
2) for the Microsoft problem. I act as an old old duffer. ( sorry silly old duffer!) him.... please turn your computer on...... rest is my replies..... how do I do that.....it’s my sons computer, he doesn’t like me playing with it.......he’s a financial adviser and his clients information is on it...... how do I click it?..... I don’t use computers but you say it’s a big problem..... after 20 mins I change voice. ....how dare you pester my farther he’s 88 and has dimentia go away.....
all good fun if you have the time. Usually with the phone tucked into my shoulder when in the workshop
they don’t call back
|Thread: R8 spindle advice required|
True Michael hadn’t thought of that but I can assure you it works . Perhaps me holding the tool in a gloved hand stops it rotating.
The point I’m making is that Not having the pin doesn’t seem to make any difference in what is probably the biggest miller found in a me workshop
|Thread: Cleaning a straightedge|
I use neat cif to clean the bench tops and epoxy coated floor with a damp cloth. The muck grease and pile just vanish
Edited By Zan on 28/07/2019 12:32:23
|Thread: R8 spindle advice required|
My Bridgeport has lost its pin. No problem with tightening the collet., but if the collet slips the pin I understand can cut a groove in the collet and lock it in place
My Sieg sx2p cnc has a pin but also has a very effective spindle lock so its there, but never needed
It all depends on providing an effective spindle lock. The Bridgeport has built in brake shoes, while the sieg has a block fitted to the base of the head with a hole through the front which matches the tommy bar pin hole in the spindle .
|Thread: Three jaw indipendent chuck|
3 jaws are quick to set up and almost on centre. Never remove work from it until it’s finished or as you found out it won’t grip in the same position
a 4 jaw would have been much worse as gripping hexogon material in it is not easy to set true, even worse if it has to be removed and later re machined.
If your flywheel was correctly secured in the chuck, drilling. AND. Reaming the bore should leave it without wobble, but probably a faceplate job to get it really true
i can’t exactly understand why you use hexogan fir the axel , how and when does it wobble, with the hex in the lathe chuck or when the flywheel is mounted in the engine?
the axel would probably have been better turned between centres or as a minimum with a large overhang and tailstock support
do a test. Grip a bit of round stock in the 3 jaw, and use a dti to determine the runout. If it is more than sat 5 thou, remove the chuck from the backplate skim a 1/16” off the register. Re mount the chuck and tap it with a soft hammer to get the bar to run true. Mine will grip to 2 thou on all diameters after this treatment, and it’s a cheap polish chuck
|Thread: milling machine issue|
Sounds like you need a refund......
the spindle speed is ok for aluminium 385 for steel with a 4 flute hiss cutter
Edited By Zan on 11/07/2019 15:08:41
|Thread: Universal T milling machine from Chester : Issue with Starting|
If the circuit diagram is for your machine you have a problem as there should not be any switches between the vdf and the motor. The diagram indicated the vdf could be on the far left off the diagram.
i see two transformers in your photos what voltage are they, and what do they power? Trace the wires.
I suspect the vvdf is blown at its output. When converting my Bridgeport to vdf and 240 v a significant amount of fuses and other 3 phase junk had to be deleted. The vdf has adequate overload protection built in..
the main motor is now worked by a contractor which now sends the digital run signal to the vdf inputs and thus running the motor triggered by the normal push button latched with the same contractor
perhaps a separate mans lead direct to the vdf will test it, it should light up If it dies Its then up to you about risking starting the main motor .. do take care with this! It won’t start direct from the vdf itself as the parameters on it wil be set or remote operations
You will have to trace back the connections from the DRO and lamp I’m not sure on this, but they probably conn coed directly to the mains input. In the diagram they are driven from a transformer. What voltage is the lamp? Looks like 24 v
|Thread: Lack of Quill on Milling Machine|
That’s why I wouldn’t consider any miller without R8 tooling. It allows minimal overhang the amount with a chuck and the tool can be surprisingly big. The quill is for drilling, but it makes it easy to set the z axis. Lift the table to 90, drop the quill with tool onto a 10 thou shim onto the work plane, lock quill, drop table. Remove shim. All now zeroed. Not so easy without the quill. It is in constant use. Makes jig boring possible as well. Tp
For machine with a knee or without a quill check there is no droop of the knee ( slack/weather in the dovetail?) this is a common problem with well used machines. I had a friend with an elderly Bridgeport, when the knee was locked the table lifted 15 thou but it was fully and correctly fully adjusted. Still did nice work, although the knee was for position only, the quill was for adding cuts . Only possible with a fine down feed , not rack and pinion but with possibly a worm n wheel.
i had a nice Rishton mill great,accurate but no fine feed on the quill only the capstan, I sold it because of this..shame now I would now have converted it to cnc.....
Edited By Zan on 07/07/2019 23:58:58
|Thread: Hofmann rotary tables|
I have the 8” with plates. Don’t use the plates often but easy to fit, otherwise they normally they get in the way but ok when used. I would have liked it to work in vertical mode, but I have a good vertex dividing head so no problem here. it’s certainly is a brilliant bit of kit. The thrust bearing under the table is huge. It’s smooth and accurate. Best bit of kit I have. Same t slots as a myford, but parallel 20 mm bore centre. So no mounting stubby morse tapers but I now have a range of dedicated centres..
a fantastic bit of kit and well worth 5he money Was standard kit fir Bridgeport’s
Edited By Zan on 07/07/2019 23:39:31
|Thread: Lathe controls position|
My vdf and DRO controls on the Myford are above and behind the tailstock. Keeps me away from the mess and you get a better view of the workings. Found it to be very convenient, but stil have to reach fir the clutch!
|Thread: Does anyone know where I can source a Myford 34t change gear?|
Got mine at the Fosse from Myford/RDG. They had loads
|Thread: Skyhooks - an overhead solution|
I used to use the same sort of thing, but now they are in the bin you will magnetise the tools when drawing them off the holder ruined a very good expensive calliper this way. Don’t do it. Use wood with drilled holes.
Edit I hate autotype
Edited By Zan on 29/01/2019 00:30:03
|Thread: Myford 33t and 34t gears for metric threads|
The conversion set is a waste of money when the simple purchase of two gears will do to all intents and purpose the same job - provided you have a gearbox! All to often people quote micron level differences in pitch or diameters which are impossible to produce on a crappy lathe like a Myford...... ps I love mine, but it is not a tool room lathe.....
|Thread: Filing A Curve|
a plane is to cut it must be razor blade sharp. Putting it face down means that it will be in contact with a bench which may have hardened glue etc. bonded to it so any pick up which moves the body will blunt it against this rubbish. So it makes sense to put it on its side. What... you say. My bench has no such rubbish! It’s perfectly smooth! Ok I say don’t damage the bench then with a sharp plane blade....but if it’s like my bench it’s piled with tools so putting it on it’s side means that it cannot be put onto another tool which could and I say could damage the fine edge and produce ridges in any planed work. Why take the risk? The old practise of putting any plane on its side was and still is good practise
A sharp plane will really sing to you when used. When used on a hard tough wood it won’t take long to need honing why take the risk?
Edited By Zan on 29/01/2019 00:12:16
Edited By Zan on 29/01/2019 00:14:28
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