Member postings for Grindstone Cowboy

That's what they make beermats for

Expohour appears to provide a summary of trade shows around the world, and has probably calculated the 2020 dates based on the 2019 dates (and messing up by ignoring the fact it's a leap year). I'd definitely go with the information on the show website and Eventbrite.

This thread may prove useful.

Excellent, thanks for confirming it

I don't think anybody was comparing Myfords to Spitfires - I certainly wasn't. Apologies if that was the impression I gave.

Been having a muck about with my newly acquired Boxford C (circa 1959 by the serial number), and found an odd little knurled knob on the top of the tailstock. It just lifts out of a blind hole and has a short rod with a flattened end.

I seem to recall hearing something about oil reservoirs so that you could apply a drop of cutting oil to your centre drill - is this what it is? Seems like you'd constantly be topping it up - it's not a particularly big hole. And I've not found any references to it on the Boxford parts lists either. I'm starting to suspect there may have been a number of design changes over the years, not all documented.

Thanks guys, just had a look with better lighting and there it was - when I was looking yesterday it was in a dark garage, and I didn't have my glasses on.

C7912 which puts it at late '50s as far as I can tell. Some differences in the pulley guard and countershaft system to those shown on lathes.co.uk for a model C which was throwing me off a bit with the identification, but it may have had bits swapped about over its lifetime. Condition is scruffy, but I think basically good underneath.

Apologies for the silly question, but where would I find the serial number on my newly acquired Boxford lathe? I am fairly sure it's a model C - could be a CSB from what I can find on lathes.co.uk.

I'll try and post a picture later to see if anyone has a better idea of the model.

Thanks,

Rob

Well, my friend, sadly now deceased, was apprenticed at Broadbent lathes and always told me Boxfords were better than Myfords (although he had an ML10 set up for milling).

Whilst clearing a friend's workshop over the last couple of days, I had a philosophical moment and came to the conclusion that in many areas, there's often a choice between the robust, reliable and usually better made workhorse, and the sleek, "name brand" one with a bit of popular following. To illustrate - WW2 British fighter planes: Hurricane or Spitfire? Cameras: Canon or Nikon? Lathes: Box-ford or Myford?

(Full disclosure, I use Nikon cameras and, until today, Myford lathes)

Careful, brake fluid will also soften and remove the paint if you get any on it. Try paraffin or white spirits (which may also affect the paint, but to a lesser extent, so a test might be in order.

Been following this thread with interest, and have possibly understood about 5% of the hard sums, but a thought occurred to me - it's all been about trying to stretch the the outer tube with an inner push-rod, yes?

How about the other way around? Using a threaded inner, fixed at one end and with a nut and washer on the other, thus compressing the outer?

No idea whether it would be better or worse, just musing.

Excellent - I'm sure it will all go OK now

" it renames the card as RECOVERY, and reduces its apparent capacity [so the card has to be re-formatted] "

That doesn't sound at all right - but I would reformat on every attempt in any case. Looking at your link re the EEPROM needing re-flashing.. well, in for a penny as they say, you might as well give it a go.

And just to be sure - you are formatting as FAT32, aren't you? Apologies if it sounds like one of those grandmother and eggs scenarios.

Unfortunately I don't have any experience of using a Mac for any of this, but willing to be a sounding board for you. Quite often just telling somebody else about an issue prompts a lightbulb moment in your own mind.

EDIT - having thought about it a little longer, I don't think the EEPROM is the issue, unless the test they describe also shows it to be faulty. I don't think you'd get as far as the rainbow screen if it was.

Edited By Grindstone Cowboy on 11/02/2020 20:36:32

All I can suggest is re-burning the NOOBS image onto your card - sometimes things just go wrong (don't ask me how I know ).

I suspect you already followed the tutorial, but here's a link anyway.

Good luck!

This link should work for the cold blue on Ebay

Ian beat me to it, but here's a link anyway

Slightly off-topic, but including time, temperature and crickets...

To get a rough estimate of the temperature in degrees fahrenheit, count the number of cricket chirps in 15 seconds and then add 37.

What those medieval theologians needed was a workshop each, then *they* could have had the debates about HSS and carbide, Myford and Boxford, etc and saved us all the bother

I'm probably wrong, but I thought anodising only worked on aluminium and it's alloys? Neil Wyatt (amongst others) has posted a number of times about anodising - for example here.

If you do a search for anodising ( at the top of the thread you'll see "Search for: in Thread Title in All Topics", just enter 'anodising' as the keyword and click the 'Go' button), you'll find many threads referring to the subject.

Hope this helps.