Member postings for Grindstone Cowboy

I may have got the wrong end of the stick, but I don't think the 'nuts' have to grip anything, aren't they more like dowel pins and just drop into the holes to provide a sideways stop?

Demonstration of the technique here.

CPC do a selection which may be suitable - see here

The spiral flutes will probably tear up the grain along the edges. This may or may not be acceptable to you for what you are doing.

Tourniquets? With a bit of cloth padding under the ropes?

"You may join me in drooling over this antipodean beastie, Rob "

Thanks Michael, very nice. A friend of mine who was into rallying told me about one Imp which left the road next to a Scottish loch, and skated over the surface for about thirty yards before sinking slowly, rear end first into the water - the advantages of a fairly flat bottom and rearward weight distribution.

Rob

(also enjoying Imp nostalgia and apologising to the Renault Dauphine whose thread we appear to have hijacked)

I built a small trailer about 25 years back using a Mini rear subframe, which is still in use, the major drawback being that it is quite heavy - however, that adds to the stability so maybe not a bad thing.The major parts - drawbar and crossmember to bolt the subframe onto - are vastly over-engineered in 1/4" thick angle and channel, the rest of the frame is in 2" x 2" x 1/8". Originally had a plywood floor, but that rotted so managed to get hold of some of the resin-impregnated board they use for the floors of horse-boxes (urine-resistant!). Sides are tongue and grooved planks, all woodwork attached with 1/4" gutter bolts.Rope attachment points are six inch nails welded to frame.

I made the length of the drawbar long enough to clear the back corners of my car even if I manage to reverse it into a 90 degree position relative to the vehicle.

I don't know about any legal issues, it has never been tested. I did paint the max allowable weight onto the side of the tow-hitch, which was some fraction of the gross weight of the towing vehicle - can't recall the formula now, unfortunately. I got a few ideas from an Indespension catalogue, although I used none of their parts, just utilised what I had available.

Michael - I had a Husky as my first car, passed down through the family - loved it, great in snow. Upgraded it with a Sport head and twin Strombergs from the local scrapyard. Just for fun, not sure if it actually made a lot of difference. Also cobbled together a home-made water-injection unit as I'd read somewhere that it improved performance Indeed, those were the days.

There used to be a Stiletto in the Preston area that someone had managed to fit a Rover V8 into the back of, it was regularly seen in the Poly car park in the early '80s, along with a silver Hammerite, brush-painted VW Beetle. Funny the things you remember...

Rob

To expand the list, also worth looking at Abom79, Doubleboost, Keith Rucker and Keith Fenner.

Others have different preferences, but I find Evaporust works very well for me.

Clear Gorilla tape?

Video here

I'm pretty sure you would see an increase if you are that close to the exchange and cabinet, even if the fibre you get is what is termed "fibre to the cabinet" (FTTC).

In any case, you seem to be paying quite a lot for plain ADSL, and could probably find a fibre with phone deal for the same, or at least very similar, cost.

I am with Plusnet myself, on their unlimited broadband, and see speeds consistently around 36Mb/sec (note that is Megabits per second and is eight times the Megabytes per second figure). Best thing you could do right now is run a speed check and report back with the readings. Try here for a test.and of course, don't be performing any other downloads whilst you do it or it will skew the results.

Edit - apologies, didn't notice you'd already stated current speed

Edited By Rob Rimmer on 31/07/2019 00:50:32

Probably not much help but I used to have a waffle-maker from South Africa with that type of connector - don't know if they are still in use over there?

Having been told many years ago that nylon scouring pads would scratch chrome trim on cars, I think I'll stick with the steel wool.

Thank you, I'll give it a go tomorrow

Today I was given a Moore & Wright No. 312B straightedge (Grade A and Hardened). Unfortunately it has a few rusty spots and general staining over much of the surface. Any suggestions for the best way to clean it up?

Thanks,

Rob

According to the news report, the Cruise meeting was in a carpark - this incident was not part of it, but caused by people "going rogue" (to quote the organiser).

(edited for spelling - need new batteries for the wireless keyboard )

Edited By Rob Rimmer on 19/07/2019 11:27:14

IIRC = if I recall correctly

IRRC = probably a typo

I guess that's an internal arris

I'd go with the slitting saw idea, I can't imagine there would be a problem with stress unless you're really overtightening the vice. If it's a worry then wouldn't a very small round nosed cutter (at 45 degrees) make a nicely rounded clearance cut?

Wow + 1

I've seen it being done, it is a fascinating process - and knowing that one slip could ruin weeks, if not months, of work must be nerve-wracking.