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Member postings for Barnabas Taylor

Here is a list of all the postings Barnabas Taylor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Cleaning a stationary engine
17/08/2020 10:08:54

Hi guys,

My neighbour has a Stuart (5A?) stationary engine, powering a launch. He recently took advantage of the lockdown to remove said engine and have a look at it. Long story short, he thought there was play in the bottom end of the crankshaft and thought it might need a new bushing. Enter stage left, me with a lathe. Having had a look at it, I am not sure as to whether the play is bad enough to warrent any machining. I am sure the whole thing could benefit from a clean up though! We have come to a tentative agreement that I will clean it up in exchange for some money (lockdown has not been kind to me!).

I am confident I can strip, clean and put back together in the right order, but I want to know if there are any surprises likely to be waiting for me which will make the job much longer than I expect? I have already guessed that the cylinder lagging might be asbestos related so I am not going to disturb that! Should I expect to be replacing piston rings? Will there be strange and hard to find sealing elements in the pump attached to it?

Basically, I want to be able to give my neighbour a price that is fair to him and to me so we all end up happy and I can go for a ride in his launch when we all recover from the pandemic!

P.s., Please excuse the horrible state of the workbench, the engine has been put on the 'I don't know where to put it just yet' area!

stuart 1.jpgstuart 2.jpg

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Thread: Using Smith Little Torch
08/05/2020 15:18:58

Hi Chris,

I tend to use the larger size heads for my jewellery work, swapping to the smaller ones for really fine detail. You will find it impossible to use the smallest couple of heads with propane, they need Acetylene to burn properly. I also made a larger head with just a plain length of copper pipe, I forget what diameter it is off the top of my head but that certainly helps for larger items. I probably will make a more sophisticated version in the future to get a more stable flame, some sort of circular 'ribbon' burner. I always turn off the oxygen first, no popping noises ever experienced. I get popping when I wack the oxygen on too fast and blow the flame out!

Thread: Any Idea What Lathe This Is?
26/04/2020 15:06:15

Can't say much more than SOD, suck it and see is the best route. I would always advocate resorting it, I love old lathes because they look so much nicer than the modern stuff! I would try not to spend money on it until you have to though, put in some time first, we all seem to have lots of that at the moment... If it seems ok, then you can put some cash towards the bits and bobs that make it a pleasure to use.

Thread: Inverter Tripping RCD
08/04/2020 18:59:25

A quick update, after some fiddling around with wires, I have got the VFD running, as yet I cannot 'load' the motor as I am waiting on a drive wheel but it hasn't tripped the house yet! This bodes well for just having to purchase an RCD for safety and being able to keep the filters intact on the VFD. Fingers crossed I am only out of pocket by another £100 and change...

08/04/2020 13:53:00
Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 08/04/2020 13:39:12:

I purchased a Schneider VFD for a mill about 6 months ago. Tripped the domestic RCD straight away. Not something i'd experienced with the Teco VFD on my lathe After a brief investigation into type B RCDs, I read the Schneider manual carefully and found a warning about just this problem and its solution. The EMI filters can be disconnected, an internal, removable bridging link is provided for the purpose. Problem solved with no knock-on effects.

Then looked into Teco manual, there is similar provision, which I've not needed to apply. Fingers crossed!

My other VFD, a cheapo Ebay jobbie, gives no trouble. I doubt it has EMI filters.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you disconnect/bridge the filters, isn't the whole thing still unsafe unless you fit a type B RCD? (Not to mention the potential 'noise' in the electrical circuits) I am going to wire things up today (probably, if I can find some suitable wires in the box!) and see if it causes trips, if it doesn't, I shall get a type B RCD and fit that. if it does trip, then back to the drawing board! Either I shall have to remove the filters, or I shall have to run a dedicated line just for it!

08/04/2020 13:21:00
Posted by Steve Skelton 1 on 08/04/2020 13:02:37:

Hi Barnabas,

Yes you are right , it is the DC component that causes the problem. You can use a basic AC type RCD which will trip on a pure AC fault but if the DC component is too high it may not trip. I am not an expert on VFD systems but the same problem can occur with charging systems for electric car charging systems and solar power installations.

It is no consolation for you but the price of Type B RCD's will drop as the demand increases.

I imagine that most people do not fit Type B units - probably from a lack of understanding they fit AC types.

My advice would be to do exactly as the manufacturer recommends as they are the experts but I would have thought that it is only the supply to the VFD that needs the Type B RCD and not the rest of the house.


Cheers Steve, I shall probably just get a sing RCB then. I shall think about the relative merits of the RCDs you sent, then I shall stop lying to myself and the bank manager and buy the cheap one! I'll fit it just to the one DB, that way I am protected and I shall just have to see if the VFD trips the 30mA earth fault. If so, it is back to the drawing board!

08/04/2020 12:46:13

From what I gather from my own research, the problem with a VFD is not so much the earth leakage but that you need an RCD that will protect against more than just an AC current. Hence the silly priced versions.

this how-to blog is very handy but doesn't sold the cost issue!



The type B ones still seem to trip at 30mA so how that helps with VFD leakage trips I am not sure, whether you have to just have them on a separate circuit which is yet more cost!

Edited By Barnabas Taylor on 08/04/2020 12:47:41

08/04/2020 12:41:06

Cheers Steve, those are a bit more reasonable! It still amazes me why this is not a simple (cheap!) solution. Do most VFD users simply not replace their RCDs? Or do they just pay a huge electrician bill and never mention it when they say VFDs are great? Did I make a huge mistake buying such a thing as I now cannot afford to install it and use it? If I was less conscientious, I would never have even realised I was supposed to worry about such things because it rarely comes up on the knifemaking forums, where VFDs are very common...

I have a further problem because the slightly sketchy electrical set-up to the garage (left over from the previous owner) has the supply coming off the house DB, to a DB in the shed with an RCD to a DB in the garage with simply a breaker and MCBs. I think this means I need to replace both the RCD in the shed DB and the RCD in the house DB which is then a lot of money!

Would it be cheaper to get a man in to rewire the garage to an earth spike? are there problems with such a set-up? I remember my grandfather telling stories of him rigging up his own earth spike from a fence pole when he was about 12... He went on to have a successful career in the power distribution industry!

08/04/2020 11:37:12

Hey guys, sorry to get in on an old thread but I have just taken delivery of a 1.5Kw motor and VFD and I am concerned about tripping problems.

Another forum I came across to do with Electric Vehicle charging had an easy to understand explanation about the differing types of RCDs/MCBs and as far as I understand it, it doesn't matter what sort of MCB I have (So long as it takes the current rating) and it is all to do with the RCD.

Now, I have just had a look on RS and they have RCCBs, type B (Which is what I understand to be the type needed?) and they are horribly expensive, with the cheapest being £488+VAT! This is absurd and I assume I am looking at the wrong parts! Can anyone point me to what I should be buying?

Naturally, I cannot get a sparky out for a job like this in the current climate so I was planning to do it myself, if it is simply a matter of swapping components. I would like to get a professional out to checking the whole workshop wiring system once Covid-19 has buggered off but in the meantime, I want to be able to use my motor!

Ta for any help!

Thread: What sort of things DO NOT inspire you
23/02/2020 14:32:57
Posted by Circlip on 23/02/2020 13:36:54:

But But But aren't all engines hot air engines??

Regards Ian.

Don't you mean "Aren't all model engineers hot air engines?"

Thread: Coal being phased out
22/02/2020 00:00:08

Posted by CHARLES lipscombe on 21/02/2020 22:54:53:

As a confirmed cynic I note that while there is great attention paid to saving the planet through getting rid of items like plastic cups but total silence on the destruction of the amazon forest and the indonesian/borneo rainforests. The amazon is said to produce 16% of the worlds oxygen - worth bothering about? Or is this aspect of global warming just too difficult to deal with?

A look at the world atlas reveals the whole global warming hoax - there are much bigger land areas in the north of the planet than in most of the areas now popular for human habitation. If the planet does warm to any great extent the human population will just migrate to what are currently the frozen north parts of the planet.


There is a great deal of fuss about the rain forest, it is just that the media is focussing on the fires and floods for the next few weeks.

The greatest threat from global warming is not the migration, it is the starvation. Currently, most of the worlds food is produced in a fairly narrow band of land either side of the equator. when this land heats up and becomes unsuitable for crops, the world will starve. The land that will be 'unlocked' by the warming is very low in the nutrients and minerals needed to grow food crops and will not be able to produce nearly the quantities we will need. Not to mention, the complete lack of infrastructure to house all the displaced people.

Climate change is not a hoax, it is a working theory and so it is often changed to suit the new data. That doesn't mean it isn't happening. We do not know if we are to blame for it but I would rather try to change society to consume less and become friendlier in the hope it reverses these dangerous trends. Would you rather be living comfortably in the future or fighting for survival while the 'hippies' say "I told you so"?

Thread: Lathe bed regrinding
08/03/2019 14:35:27

I did think it could just be machined rather than ground. Anyone happen to know a place in Cornwall I could ask? Any members in Cornwall with a ruddy great mill who could help me? I have sent an email to slideway services (no mention of closure on their website) so we will see what comes.

07/03/2019 16:12:11

Hi matt,

No, the compound doesn't travel so I can work with it as it is. However, the wear means the tailstock is always slightly out of alignment and I cannot move the compound and keep any sort of accuracy. Also, I feel that if I am going to the trouble of tarting it up,I might as well look into regrinding!

07/03/2019 15:18:23


I have an old clockmakers? Type lathe with a badly worn bed. Anyone able to offer any advice on where I can get it reground? As you can see, no complications like leadscrew to deal with. Just a simple bed with a flat and a 'v' section.


Thread: Cast iron or Aluminium?
04/01/2019 12:03:22

Some cracking ideas as ever guys, thanks!

Michael, the lapping idea is a good one, if I can turn it to within a few 'tenths' then I could lap it flat. I know watch/clock makers use the attachment you are describing for polishing screw heads. I am sure I have seen a YouTube video about making one.

John, the lathe did come with a little brass wax chuck (yes, 8mm with a tapered bore and draw bar) and it is a more useful accessory than a faceplate but there are times when it isn't suitable to stick something down (wood or stone for example) and so a faceplate might be the best option. Also, I just fancied making some bits to go along with the lathe and a faceplate seemed like a good starting point!

If I turn a suitable mandrel to fit the lathe bore and locktite the faceplate to it, then machine it to finished dimensions in one go, it should all be close enough for me I think. I will have to clock it up I suppose and find out once it is finished!

02/01/2019 22:52:06

Yep, I thought of that. I do worry about my ability to machine on it though as it didn't come with a toolpost, only a hand turning rest. I might just have to set up with a collet in the myford, or the fourjaw chuck andCdo the best I can with it.

02/01/2019 21:41:24

Thanks Andrew, that's basically what I was thinking!

02/01/2019 21:26:41

A good idea Martin, I shall see what I can get that is cheapest!

02/01/2019 21:18:21

I have a myford super 7 so the actual machining will be done on that. I am just making a shopping list for Ally Pally and want to know what I might need to buy!

02/01/2019 21:05:17

Good day all,

I was given a lovely little watchmakers lathe for Christmas and I want to make a little faceplate for it. Should I use cast iron? Mild steel? Aluminium? Brass? Would it make a difference either way? The maximum diameter of the faceplate would be about 80mm.

Many thanks and merry Christmas and a happy new year!

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