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Member postings for David T

Here is a list of all the postings David T has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Do you clean up your rough end
13/11/2018 17:06:46
Posted by John MC on 13/11/2018 16:32:57:

So what about all the other sharp objects in the workshop?

Scriber with a cork on the pointy bit?

I must admit I put a rubber teat on the hook end after repeated injuries blush

Thread: Drummond M type
09/11/2018 15:38:47
Posted by Ady1 on 09/11/2018 09:39:03:

The best one I ever saw was made of wood and angle iron but I'll be damned if I can find it

It was like the system in the first picture but ran from the eye at the foot of the lathe leg and used 2x4 inch wooden struts, some threaded bar and some angle iron

It was so simple and practical and easy for a new user compared to many systems, and used the weight of the motor to self tension the belt

Edited By Ady1 on 09/11/2018 09:45:01

Sounds like the one described by LH Sparey in The Amateur’s Lathe?

Thread: Slitting Saw Arbor
31/10/2018 14:23:13
Posted by IanT on 29/10/2018 11:30:32:

None of my slitting saws are hollow ground (that I'm aware of) and none of them have any kerf.


Thread: Nut screws washer and bolts
26/10/2018 14:16:12
Posted by Nigel Bennett on 24/10/2018 14:31:30:

Possibly David T's application wasn't suited to the way they work - the hardness (or otherwise) of the mating materials can upset them. Did you try approaching Nord-Lock themselves for advice, David?

Hardness may well have something to do with it. Our application includes securing a crimp to maintain electrical continuity, so a relatively soft material is involved. I don't know if Nordlock were ever contacted to begin with as they were introduced before I moved into my current job.

Thread: Boring bar mounting
23/10/2018 16:30:26

As I don't have a quick-change toolpost, just a four-way, I made a dedicated post for boring bars. It is simply a lump of cast iron, bored and reamed in situ. There's a 1/2" hole and an 8mm hole to suit the bars I use. The securing screws are offset and and push against a bevelled pad (cotter?) that bears on the bar.

Thread: Nut screws washer and bolts
23/10/2018 15:59:09
Posted by MichaelR on 23/10/2018 15:13:59:

Have a look at Nord Lock Washers Here I have used these on my IC engines. Mike.

We’ve trialled those at work in lieu of a Nylock nut, but without huge success. I suspect that may be due to our application though as it is a little........ perculiar. I find Nylocks to be quite reliable though.

Thread: BCA Jig Borer MK3
21/10/2018 14:44:36
Posted by not done it yet on 21/10/2018 14:36:11:

Can one ask: What does the spring do?

The only thing it appears to be able to do is maintain a modicum of tension on the drive while the holding stud is loosened. Tension would be proportional to the compression of the spring, so rather a variable force. Or does it do something when apparently fixed in position?

It just applies tension, and the housing is only adjustable to account for different pulley diameters. BCA's only literature states that the correct tension is achieved when around 1/2" of the sliding shaft is exposed (naturally that assumes that the original spring is in use).

Thread: Drill or Mill?
16/10/2018 09:08:38

I'm watching this topic with interest. As the owner of a largish bench drill and a smallish mill, I've often wondered the same thing.

Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018
15/10/2018 15:50:53

Completed (mostly) building my dividing head. Having said that, I've got a random dividing plate that SWMBO picked up on a whim; at some point I'll make up a worm attachment for it. Now if only I could remember why I needed a dividing head in the first place...............?

Thread: Parting off - again, sorry
12/10/2018 10:08:48
Posted by mark costello 1 on 11/10/2018 20:57:36:

You could always use a Dial Indicator to check if the cut off tool holder is parallel to the travel of the cross slide. Overkill but guaranteed results.

When I used to use a front-mounted tool I always aligned it with a dial gauge. I must admit though, since getting a rear toolpost I've never checked it blush

Edited By David T on 12/10/2018 10:09:14

Edited By David T on 12/10/2018 10:09:39

Thread: Twin Tube HF fluorescent lighting for the workshop
12/10/2018 09:53:30

I have two single fluorescents in the workshop; never had a problem with nuisance RCD trips, and never noticed a stroboscopic issue either. Surely any stroboscopic effect would be limited to harmonics of 50Hz though? So any stroboscopic effect may lie dormant for years until one one day something just happens to spin at the required RPM?

Thread: Last Night's Astro Image
08/10/2018 14:18:11

That is spectacular!

Thread: Complete beginners threading euphoria
08/10/2018 14:13:32

Jib?? I've always pronounced it the other way!! Oh, the shame, the shame!!! crying 2

Thread: Boring head capacity
07/10/2018 10:47:09
Posted by JasonB on 07/10/2018 10:31:22:
A boring head in the lathe is handy when you have a part that is too tall to stand vertically in the mill or simply don't have a mill when the part is again too big to swing plus you get to use the lathes power feed for a nice smooth bore as not many small mills have power to Z.

+1. I recently used a boring head on the lathe to bore out this banjo, despite having a milling machine (jig borer, in fact!). The lathe's auto-feed made this job far easier than doing it on the mill.

Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling
05/10/2018 11:27:08

I agree with the comments regarding a clamping kit. I made a handful of clamps as per Harold Hall's instructions, and they cover most of my clamping needs. An angle plate is also very useful here. On odd occasions I do also use a vice; mine is one of the precision toolmaker's types from Arc (usual disclaimer etc etc).

I should also point out that I started out with just a lathe, no mill. My first clamps were made on the lathe, for clamping work down to the cross slide etc. The simple clamps encouraged by HH can be made with nothing more than a drill and a tap. Slots are a luxury!

Thread: Lathe or Mill?
04/10/2018 16:19:12

I was just thinking of my last visit to Portsmouth Naval Dockyard (as a tourist that is, I’m certainly no old salt)..... All the preserved ships had a lathe on board. Naval vessels had (and still have) to be able to make running repairs at sea, independent of assistance from other ships or ports. On the submarine HMS Alliance, the sole machine tool on board (and located in the engine room) was a Drummond M-Type lathe. I expect that was fairly typical of any small vessel.

HMS Belfast, on the other hand, has a very well-equipped workshop.....

04/10/2018 15:57:28

Another vote for the lathe. I worked for several years with just the lathe and a milling slide. Despite now having a milk, I still find the lathe more convenient for a lot of jobs.

Thread: Complete beginners threading euphoria
29/09/2018 17:03:22

Congrats, I felt much the same after cutting my first thread smiley

Thread: What did you do Today 2018
28/09/2018 21:36:00

Made the detent holder for my dividing head. Just need to make a knob for the detent and it'll be usable in its most simple form. I still need to make some gear studs for setting up a gear train, but annoyingly I've run out of stock.

Thread: After a new drill vice
27/09/2018 15:43:51

I too had a 4” drilling vice which quickly fell into disuse, albeit for different reasons. In my experience it’s just far easier, quicker and more convenient to clamp directly to the table using a machine clamp. For small bits I use a little Myford milling vice or a finger plate.

Sorry that’s probably not the answer you were looking for.

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