Here is a list of all the postings David T has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Aircraft General Discussion|
I’ve noticed a lot of “survey flights” too, very curious.
Might the “calibration patterns” out of Brize be air-to-air refuelling ops?
Definitely a Globemaster, but it turns out it was doing touch-and-go’s, so I may have just seen the same one twice.
Did I just see an RAF Globemaster go into Southend airport??
Shortly followed by a second one
Edited By David T on 31/03/2020 14:32:21
|Thread: Do you clean up your rough end|
I must admit I put a rubber teat on the hook end after repeated injuries
|Thread: Drummond M type|
Sounds like the one described by LH Sparey in The Amateur’s Lathe?
|Thread: Slitting Saw Arbor|
|Thread: Nut screws washer and bolts|
Hardness may well have something to do with it. Our application includes securing a crimp to maintain electrical continuity, so a relatively soft material is involved. I don't know if Nordlock were ever contacted to begin with as they were introduced before I moved into my current job.
|Thread: Boring bar mounting|
As I don't have a quick-change toolpost, just a four-way, I made a dedicated post for boring bars. It is simply a lump of cast iron, bored and reamed in situ. There's a 1/2" hole and an 8mm hole to suit the bars I use. The securing screws are offset and and push against a bevelled pad (cotter?) that bears on the bar.
|Thread: Nut screws washer and bolts|
We’ve trialled those at work in lieu of a Nylock nut, but without huge success. I suspect that may be due to our application though as it is a little........ perculiar. I find Nylocks to be quite reliable though.
|Thread: BCA Jig Borer MK3|
It just applies tension, and the housing is only adjustable to account for different pulley diameters. BCA's only literature states that the correct tension is achieved when around 1/2" of the sliding shaft is exposed (naturally that assumes that the original spring is in use).
|Thread: Drill or Mill?|
I'm watching this topic with interest. As the owner of a largish bench drill and a smallish mill, I've often wondered the same thing.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018|
Completed (mostly) building my dividing head. Having said that, I've got a random dividing plate that SWMBO picked up on a whim; at some point I'll make up a worm attachment for it. Now if only I could remember why I needed a dividing head in the first place...............?
|Thread: Parting off - again, sorry|
When I used to use a front-mounted tool I always aligned it with a dial gauge. I must admit though, since getting a rear toolpost I've never checked it
Edited By David T on 12/10/2018 10:09:14
Edited By David T on 12/10/2018 10:09:39
|Thread: Twin Tube HF fluorescent lighting for the workshop|
I have two single fluorescents in the workshop; never had a problem with nuisance RCD trips, and never noticed a stroboscopic issue either. Surely any stroboscopic effect would be limited to harmonics of 50Hz though? So any stroboscopic effect may lie dormant for years until one one day something just happens to spin at the required RPM?
|Thread: Last Night's Astro Image|
That is spectacular!
|Thread: Complete beginners threading euphoria|
Jib?? I've always pronounced it the other way!! Oh, the shame, the shame!!!
|Thread: Boring head capacity|
+1. I recently used a boring head on the lathe to bore out this banjo, despite having a milling machine (jig borer, in fact!). The lathe's auto-feed made this job far easier than doing it on the mill.
|Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling|
I agree with the comments regarding a clamping kit. I made a handful of clamps as per Harold Hall's instructions, and they cover most of my clamping needs. An angle plate is also very useful here. On odd occasions I do also use a vice; mine is one of the precision toolmaker's types from Arc (usual disclaimer etc etc).
I should also point out that I started out with just a lathe, no mill. My first clamps were made on the lathe, for clamping work down to the cross slide etc. The simple clamps encouraged by HH can be made with nothing more than a drill and a tap. Slots are a luxury!
|Thread: Lathe or Mill?|
I was just thinking of my last visit to Portsmouth Naval Dockyard (as a tourist that is, I’m certainly no old salt)..... All the preserved ships had a lathe on board. Naval vessels had (and still have) to be able to make running repairs at sea, independent of assistance from other ships or ports. On the submarine HMS Alliance, the sole machine tool on board (and located in the engine room) was a Drummond M-Type lathe. I expect that was fairly typical of any small vessel.
HMS Belfast, on the other hand, has a very well-equipped workshop.....
Another vote for the lathe. I worked for several years with just the lathe and a milling slide. Despite now having a milk, I still find the lathe more convenient for a lot of jobs.
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