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Member postings for John Paton 1

Here is a list of all the postings John Paton 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Using A Taper Attachment.
26/05/2019 00:52:02

Just reaffirms the value of this site to us mere mortals - there are 'Gods' in here who really know their stuff so it's always worth asking!

Thread: Newcomer to inverters, please advise.
25/04/2019 20:58:28

I bought a variable frequency drive (inverter) from Honeywell Controls about 25 years ago for £80 including the programmer pad. It has been brilliant and never missed a beat. Best £80 I have invested in the workshop. The power , torque and quietness of the 3 phase motor combined with speed control and soft start is simply superb.

Go for it!


Thread: Cheap DRO for Mill
23/04/2019 18:39:07

A very useful feature not mentioned above ( available on some Chinese imports too) is trig functions for setting out holes on PCD, arcs, radiussing etc that can be very useful. Look at M-DRO website (I think it was that website!) with video guides on how to use those features.

i am concerned that there is a bit of a race to the bottom price-wise and that quality of build is now starting to suffer and consider your question here very wise if (like me) you believe that buying well first time is the cheapest route in the longer term and avoids having to drill a second set of holes in your machine when deciding your original purchase is unsuitable for you.

i would always feel more confident with a metal cases console and inbuilt power supply rather than cheap plastic case and a wall wart mains adapter.

I personally opted for magnetic readers rather than optical believing these to have a longer life prospect in a fluid filled environment ( yes I do use coolant) but admit that I found no firm evidence to suggest that properly installed optical scales are not reliable. Tech specs suggest that Magnetic readers are less demanding in respect of fitting tolerance and exposure to.moisture.

Thread: Where's my Dykem blue gone - there's no need to read this
18/04/2019 16:32:26

No blue language Brian?

Larry, the other ones are where did that little part end up that just flew out on my hands on the grinder and why is that 10BA nut I just vacuumed up by mistake not here in the dust bag contents??

Thread: Tess at 8 weeks old.
10/04/2019 08:05:49

Ahh - what a lovely pup.

we too have a girl called Tess. Ours is a working chocolate lab. As we speak I am wending my way back to Dorset from Scotland in the campervan having taken her up there to meet her beau.

Hopefully all successful and we hope for a litter of squirming pups on the 8th June! One heck of a drive for the romance but Our Tess also is a bit special and we feel a duty to keep her line going.

cannot wait for the puppies - hard work but so much fun.

Thread: Machinery Directive and CE marking
04/04/2019 19:12:20

Is the answer not within the word Hobbyist? I take that as being for your own use and not for reward and also not involving your employment or the employment of others.

Some Model Engineers are most certainly in business - some in very large businesses - involved in making large numbers of models for sale (Bing, Stuart Turner etc along with those that make museum and shop display models). They will doubtless be covered by CE in the same way that manufacturers of cuddly toys are. So the term Model Engineer does not offer an exclusion.

Once work is done for reward it is arguably a cottage industry not merely a hobby. Ditto the use of your car for transporting items for business sale is not domestic and pleasure use within the terms of car insurance.

Thread: DRO for Boxford Lathe
01/04/2019 22:49:41

Hi Peter

I recently fitted DRO to my Boxford VSL and fitted magnetic reader to the cross slide with it mounted to the right hand side of the slide, starting just to the rear of the oiler and projecting to the rear. The bar is fixed to some tee nut material clamped in the end of the tee slots and the top of the assembly comes no higher than the top surface of the cross slide so does not hinder use of that area.

the advantage of magnetic readers is a slight ly greater installation tolerance and the ability to cut to the required length.

i went for Easson units from machine DRO and they produce a special bar section for the Boxford which is similar to my set up but comes a shade above the cross slide and impinges about 10mm over the surface of its right hand edge. Not the cheapest DRO but reassuring warranty, helpful support and the DRO has been a delight to use.

my philosophy is to do it right first time and hope not to have to replace it for many years.

The arrangement adopted allows access to saddle oilers and gib screws but your saddle may be a shade different in that respect.

i made a separate reader for the topslide using a cheap digital vernier as 'donor' (5only works when set at 0 degrees or thereabouts) which can be fitted and removed in seconds and does not get in the way during use.

Thread: Have your fathers habits rubbed off on you. Just for fun
29/03/2019 17:09:22

I like to think so - my Dad was a true gentleman, but others must be the judge of that.

He was a qualified electrician but repairs to the cable on his electric mower where he had mown over it (wire conductor ends simply twisted round and covered with PVC tape from a 30 year old 'hard and tacky' spool) warn me not to follow his example too slavishly as I grow old.

Thread: miniature 3 pin sockets
29/03/2019 07:40:49

Having just run through the replies to Bob's question there were seven which appear to me to be genuine constructive attempts to help and one suggesting they required a bit more info.

after that a further 7 (now 9 with this) arguably off topic. Come on guys let's be friendly and helpful.

Bob, glad you have found a solution and please don't be deterred from asking questions - I felt your specification quite adequate, perhaps because I faced a similar need recently and there are a bewildering number of products which arise from a Google search.

would be interested to hear the outcome of your checks on the Austin - please PM me if you prefer not to post openly on this. My Jag kit car might need similar monitoring especially around the exhaust manifold.

Thread: More Workshop space, shall I or not..?
28/03/2019 21:24:34

I have been waiting to see if a member called Beeching would chip in with advice.

I have seen wonderful use made of derelict former railway premises and they make great workshops.

Thread: miniature 3 pin sockets
27/03/2019 21:52:14

I recently bought 'Metal Screw Butt Joint Type Male Connector Aviation Plug XS8JK-4P/Y' from Amazon , £3.62 for a plug and socket. These sockets can also be bought 'panel mounting' rather than lead fitted. They have a nice snap on connection action so stay putt in use but disconnect easily when you need to unplug.

Also consider the servo plugs and sockets used by modelmakers for radio control, but these would need to be used with fly leads rather than panel mounted socket so wont look quite as professional. Get some lengths of small bore heat shrink tube to seal over soldered connections between flyleads and your wires if going that way.

Thread: Temperature probe
24/03/2019 08:11:31

Are you looking for two or three K type thermocouples and a data logger to run them simultaneously?

there are a number of cheap single channel meters that you can plug a thermocouple into but you might do better with a data logger if needing several channels.

Thread: A Simple Protective Coating For Steel, Indoors
22/03/2019 09:42:11

A wipe over with Leather Genie Balsam is also good - on sale at many country fair type events and excellent for leather walking boots, bonnet strap on our classic car etc as it is water repellant. Beeswax based so non silicone.

I use it for polished wooden furniture and the unpainted metalwork on model steam engines as, once 'polished up', it doesn't cause dust to collect too badly.

It is pricey but a little goes a very long way.

Thread: Recommended base flashing for an external wall
21/03/2019 10:47:38

There are three issues:

1. You will probably need a horizontal damp proof course (DPC) between anything in direct contact with the ground and any 'non durable' (timber) structure above to stop moisture wicking upwards. The DPC could usefully be turned down 25mm on the outer side of the kerb to act as a bit of a weather check against splashing / wind driven rain.

Taking Jason's sketch above, this would go over the top of the sleeper and tie in with the DPM. This also assumes a 'proper' sleeper which is made durable by pressure treatment with 'proper' creosote. Poorly treated timber will rot rather quickly in that environment and modern 'sleepers' sold in garden centres are not sufficiently well treated for use in that location. You need the real salvaged sleepers which you can tell by being really hard and heavy and impregnated deep brown colour. Modern fencing type material even though sold as pressure treated has been found to rot in 5 years when in contact with the ground - speak to owners of modern housing estates about their fence posts! If you cannot get proper sleepers consider dense concrete blockwork which is easy to lay. The hollow blocks are good as they knit together very strongly if you overlap the joints of each course and fill the voids with mortar or concrete as you go. Two courses gives a very firm kerb using a detail similar to Jason's and a nice accurate edge to pour concrete into.

2. If the kerb (sleeper in Jasons sketch) rises at least 150mm above ground level you can safely run the sheet metal cladding down to within 50mm of ground level so it creates its own 'flashing' in front of the kerb. General rule of thumb is for the f'lashing' to extend a minimum of 75 mm below the timber structure. This could be a bit less, maybe 50mm, in very sheltered locations or somewhat more in extremely exposed locations such as hilltops and coastlines.

3. With profiled metal sheeting be aware that condensation will form on its inner face at night and this needs to be able to dribble down within the void of the corrugation to 'somewhere it will cause no problem'. Also that vermin will be able to get up through the corrugations and nest in the nice dry wall cavity and in time gnaw through into your workshop. Easiest fix is to infill the corrugations with cement mortar but that will lie damp with condensation drips in some conditions so make sure it is below the dpc level.

Thread: I want one!
19/03/2019 17:41:27

No its monkeys who tidy up wrenches!

Joking apart, we often accuse the fairies of hiding our things, but when I replaced the slate roof on our cob garden wall that attaches to my garage I found a nest with all manner of odds and ends from the garage - bits of electrical fittings, a plastic tap used on the winemaking syphon (probably smelt intoxicating to the mouse!), chewed up instruction sheets and a huge mass of sycamore seeds.

I would love to claim I had spent ages looking for the syphon tap but in all honesty I had forgotten I even had it.

When I found the nest I could only think mice are as attracted to the smell of mineral oil as I am. A reassuringly rust free and homely smell .

Next thing is to encourage the mice to wash up our dishes and we are almost home and dry. To this end I keep an old 'working, too good to throw away' dishwasher in our outhouse. After having mice raid the bags of dog food I now store their food in the dishwasher along with bird food and a bag of lawn seed. The little beggars are getting in there now also - I don't know if they go up the waste pipe or if they have found a plastic component that they have managed to chew through. Still I don't really begrudge them a few ounces of lawn seed (its what they have gone for first)

Thread: Anyone got a hydrogen generator?
15/03/2019 07:46:43

Yes the flame certainl is exceedingly hot. I bubble mine through ordinary methylated spirits and it does small soleering and brazing very well. There is inadequate energy there for anything over about 1.5mm diameter or 0.5mm thick sheet the size of postage stamp however that may be because my Hobby Flame unit is the smaller one in that range.

15/03/2019 07:46:42

Yes the flame certainl is exceedingly hot. I bubble mine through ordinary methylated spirits and it does small soleering and brazing very well. There is inadequate energy there for anything over about 1.5mm diameter or 0.5mm thick sheet the size of postage stamp however that may be because my Hobby Flame unit is the smaller one in that range.

15/03/2019 07:46:41

Yes the flame certainl is exceedingly hot. I bubble mine through ordinary methylated spirits and it does small soleering and brazing very well. There is inadequate energy there for anything over about 1.5mm diameter or 0.5mm thick sheet the size of postage stamp however that may be because my Hobby Flame unit is the smaller one in that range.

Thread: Taplin-Baker Hydrojet
13/03/2019 22:25:26

I can imagine and worth every penny probably! A true classic and always an expensive and rather exclusive engine.

13/03/2019 18:36:31

Just to reopen this in case anyone is interested!

Today I bought an early fibreglass speedboat hull at our local 'antiques' market - only because the boat has an interesting jet drive.

The remnants of r/c installation suggests single channel valve radio (maybe reed?) with meccano drive to the rudder servo. Probably early to mid 1960s I suspect.

A bit of research convinces me I have a Taplin Waterjet drive unit here although the directional 'rudder tube' nozzle is missing. The actual jet assembly is a lovely sculptured chrome plated unit with water cooling scoop for engine cooling and three bladed prop within. It has a mild steel U/J input ( a bit rusty as it isn't plated)

The hull is quite a nice moulding but obviously very dated and the fitting out inside is useless for today's r/c equipment.

i can upload a photo if anyone is interested to see what the water jet unit looks like.

All I need now is the lovely Taplin Twin engine to marry to the jet drive ( the engineering quality of Taplin was the stuff of legends, from their big electric boat motors and then onto their glow engines).

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