Here is a list of all the postings Nick Clarke 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Why mostly manual cars in UK|
Interestingly the reason the place I worked at did so much work on auto transmissions in the 80's (mainly BW35, 12J, 45 or the Ford C4) was because much of the trade was frightened of them - but they would go for amazing mileages with no repair - to the stage where the metal clutch plates would wear so thin that a box that came in with 'I think it may be slipping a bit' would have plates worn so thin they would cut paper!
If the fluid was trashed by overheating or burnt brake bands it could cause problems but we only ever scrapped a box if the case was broken - if you had someone in the business who knew what they were doing (emphatically not me!) you could replace anything to repair any fault.
Posted by Howard Lewis on 04/12/2019 15:20:47:..........
And under snow or ice, give me a manual anyday!
The early BW boxes had D1 and D2 selection where D2 started off in intermediate using the torque convertor's torque multiplication to make life easier on slippery surfaces, but later ones and virtually all autos since, appear to be designed to allow you to select a lower gear if wanted rather than a higher one if needed for stability on ice.
Traditional automatics worked best in cars with larger engines with good low down torque and a wide rev range and here in the UK, as in many parts of the world smaller engines were the norm and so the auto choice meant compromises in performance and fuel economy that the buying public were unwilling to pay.
In my opinion automatics made sense - however in the sixties and seventies many manufacturers mainstream models were 1600cc or therabouts and a 1600cc automatic Ford Cortina was a far less pleasant car to drive than the manual (4 speed) version which was probably the most popular car to buy during much of that time.
While auto boxes for large vehicles were introduced in the 1940s the first auto transmission designed for a small UK car was the AP auto box fitted to Minis and 11/1300s from 1962 (and incidently it was manufactured about 800yds from where I now live) However this was not seen as suitable for young, keen drivers.
As such until recently the image of driving an automatic was that it was for oldies and it does not help that UK licencing laws allow someone to drive auto and manual if the driving test was passed in a manual car, while if in an auto you could never drive anything else - ie you were 'less skilled'
Personally having worked in the Motor Trade for several years including a lot of auto box work for the trade a well matched auto box is easier to drive, nicer to drive and requires less maintenance - and today the fuel consumption penalty is small.
The devil is in the detail of course and 'well matched' does not, in my personal opinion, apply to automated manual gearboxes and some 'sealed for life' autos which are nasty to drive and short lived respectively.
I am no longer personally interested in cars much, I think I have run too many, and so I drive a small basic manual car as the auto choice for that model is not a good one - however if I drove a different car with an engine of say 1.4 litres or more I don't think it would be manual.
Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 04/12/2019 15:17:22
Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 04/12/2019 15:22:12
|Thread: Meddings pillar drill colour|
Your choice of colour is up to you, however take care re-coating Hammerite and similar paints as they can affect the finish on the new coat of paint. This will be especially so if the present finish is flatted down - even worse than painting over the top of the old paint.
Try a test first and leave it to dry thoroughly to see if you are going to have any issues. If you do then total removal is probably the only answer, if you wish to achieve a good finish.
|Thread: More evidence that the world has gone mad!|
Another probably apocryphal story is that Rolls Royce wished to name a new model the Silver Mist until it was pointed out that mist in German translates as dung!
|Thread: which lathe?|
+1 for SC3 from ArcEuro - unless the bench space is an issue as the next job may be longer so SC3 was my choice in place of the SC2.
You need to include the tools that you need to complete your jobs as well, so the collets Robert suggested and a drill chuck as well as cutting tools ought to be on your list - but buy as you need and don't try to get everything possible at once - I suspect many of us have bought things to fully equip a lathe that have never been used in practice!
|Thread: Inside chuck jaws|
I have just picked up a small lever 3 jaw SC chuck to go in a rotary table. It came with no instructions, but no problem - why would you need instructions - until I read the above.
Is this jaw reversal usual and necessary?
|Thread: Moderated Posts|
Thanks for your replies
If I put up a post that is considered unsuitable for any reason and removed by the moderators will I know about it?
A couple of posts I have made from work have not appeared on the forum and I wonder if it because they have been moderated (I hope not - I try to avoid anything too off the wall) or blocked by filtering at this end?
|Thread: Knurling tool operation|
Have just ordered a knurling tool of the clamp type - I wish to use it to finish some parts of the Hemingway/Thomas height gauge.
I have never used a knurling tool before so some suggestions for lathe speeds and whether to do it under power (at present I assume this is correct)
The parts are about 1 1/8" mild steel and 5/8" brass.
Thanks for any help.
|Thread: Tungsten or Alloy Steel Taps and Dies|
Browsing eBay and I came across a cheap set of taps and dies that are described as being made of 'alloy steel'. Later found the same set under a different brand described as being made from 'tungsten steel'
Not interested in buying either set but just curious to know what 'alloy steel' and 'tungsten steel' are and are they similar to carbon steel, high speed steel or muckmetal?
|Thread: Angle Grinder stand|
I bought the Einhell one from Machine Mart but it looks as if they only sell the larger one at present - however it is a clone of the Wolfcraft and I am happy with it.
What I have done is screwed it to a piece of 2"x2"x12" approx wood so that I can clamp it in the Workmate when I use it rather than having it fixed and so in the way or alternately just floating about the place.
|Thread: Grinding and cutoff discs for angle grinders|
Used to work with a retired toolroom grinder, in a place where we sold the disks and he hated the things and always told any customer who bought any about them shattering and embedding themselves in a concrete pillar in his toolroom.
Put a bit of a dampener on counter sales, but he was sincere!
|Thread: Allchin 1.1.2" boiler|
It is an interesting position to be in - we know nowadays that there are better ways of doing things, but if we do things differently to the design drawings when does it become a different design and calculations etc need to be produced?
Not necessarily. This is the drawing of LBSC's Tich loco throatplate, although admittedly some boiler designs do have the 'forwards and backwards' flanges you describe.
|Thread: My really awful week!|
If you don't call it a radio what do you call it?
|Thread: new computer|
Sorry Douglas - our posts must have crossed!
|Thread: Metal supplies|
Not far from me. Very helpful and nice people.
|Thread: new computer|
I have been a very satisfied customer of these people for a long time - they have taken over the Morgan Computers business. Most recently an A1 reconditioned iPad **LINK**
Remember a new system will probably have Win10 installed perhaps unlike your present one - many people don't like this and some of your present software may need updating, but with win7 going out of support it is hard to recommend a different version if you are going down the Microsoft route.
|Thread: The Great Escape|
That was how jade carvers cut the extremely hard jade.
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