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Member postings for Nick Clarke 3

Here is a list of all the postings Nick Clarke 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Plans for updating the archaic forum?
11/02/2021 09:17:48
Posted by John Pace on 10/02/2021 20:13:32:

Hi

Anyone on here also uses the RCME model flying forum ,used to have a similar layout to this one ,has been changed over this last few days , go and have a look at it , be grateful for this one and hope there are no plans to change to a similar layout ,it looks bl**dy awful.

John

Whilst not wanting to appear a Luddite or a 'stick in the mud' any change of software might lead to issues like this arising. With the only revenue stream being from advertising, which has to pay for hosting, paying for a professional rebuild and then fault finding for an indeterminate time could be an expense too far.

Having seen many amateur websites in the day job the option of someone creating a replacement without the constraints of a commercial contract appeals even less!

Thread: Alternative valve mechanism
10/02/2021 11:51:54
Posted by Redsetter on 10/02/2021 09:22:10:

The most difficult part of building the loco in question will be making the cylinder and piston. In comparison a single eccentric or slip eccentric valve gear is an easy job and will work well.

Or as an alternative what about the slip return crank as used by the Hackfly locomotive?

Thread: New Start on LBSC's 3.5" Petrolea
08/02/2021 21:01:04

Many published designs have errors and these tend to be more frequent when the design has not been built by the designer before publication.

Obviously the designers who published more designs published more unbuilt designs, so people like LBSC and Martin Evans might include more errors, but that is just the nature of the game.

If you get the opportunity try to read the original magazine articles - in a library is a good place - as there you may well find the answers to errors in the published drawings.

Thread: Smoothing off tool
08/02/2021 17:38:39
Posted by John Haine on 08/02/2021 14:50:01:

Looks very like the tool I bought years ago for sticking plastic film to model airframes, though that was mains powered. Being USB powered this must be a bit limited in heat output.

I used a similar mains powered device as a tacking iron for photo mounting tissue to hold the tissue in place before mount, print and tissue were all placed in a mounting press and fixed for good.

Old tech now I suspect.

My own first thoughts were with Journeyman's above, hence my question.

08/02/2021 13:25:45

Anyone ever used one of these? *Link*

Useful or not?

 

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 08/02/2021 13:27:12

Thread: MEW No.301
08/02/2021 13:03:17

Oh, not again!

Have post delivered this morning posted 5/2/21!!

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 08/02/2021 13:04:28

08/02/2021 12:50:16

Anybody see ME 4657 yet?

Thread: No, not tooling from the Titanic!
07/02/2021 17:23:01

Doing some tiding up and decided to empty one of those red plastic crates that are used to 'keep things tidy' and found, amongst other stuff these:-

img_20210207_170213900.jpg

Amongst all the other stuff were some bits I had picked up cheap from somewhere and an aerosol can of paint (unused) and a bottle of drain cleaner/brazing pickle (ditto)

The cleaner had burst, the aerosol had corroded through and the bits and pieces slightly corroded. Total loss these, the keys for the lathe tools, 4 end mills and a cheap pair of electrical nippers.

I think they must have been in there since the last Bristol Show as there were also the two sets of the miniature laser cut spanners I bought off the Blackgates stand - but these being stainless the grot just washed off under the tap and are fine.

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 07/02/2021 17:23:21

Thread: Any idea on what this item is?
07/02/2021 11:18:49
Posted by Nicholas Farr on 07/02/2021 10:46:25:

Hi Nick Clarke 3, surely sub plates could be made to locate on the studs and have a counterbore for the screw in the middle, whatever needs measuring could then be mounted accurately on the sub plate.

Regards Nick.

Certainly they could, but applying Occam's Razor I doubt they are likely do have been designed like this - the pins would not all be on one side and would have been larger I suspect.

I think Nigel was on the right track when he suggested it was something that has been repurposed. Looking at the light weight and 'spindley' construction stirs memories of engravings in Victorian books and ornamental turning equipment.

07/02/2021 11:18:48
Posted by Nicholas Farr on 07/02/2021 10:46:25:

Hi Nick Clarke 3, surely sub plates could be made to locate on the studs and have a counterbore for the screw in the middle, whatever needs measuring could then be mounted accurately on the sub plate.

Regards Nick.

Certainly they could, but applying Occam's Razor I doubt they are likely do have been designed like this - the pins would not all be on one side and would have been larger I suspect.

I think Nigel was on the right track when he suggested it was something that has been repurposed. Looking at the light weight and 'spindley' construction stirs memories of engravings in Victorian books and ornamental turning equipment.

07/02/2021 10:23:04
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 07/02/2021 10:00:00:

I think it's an accessory for an optical table, laboratory equipment or educational. Had similar, but less well made, at school as part of a kit for studying lenses, prisms, interference gratings, polarisation, diffraction and reflection. The kit consisted of a table with a beam light source on which quite complex optical systems could be set up. The rotary table is for accurately measuring how much a prism or lens deflects a beam, or for accurately aiming or collimating it.

It has been a long time since I taught physics at this level, but the fly in the jampot would probably have been the screw in the middle and the three studs getting in the way and the lack of any lines, like in Dave's example, to set a prism, lens or whatever so it was rotated and not moved through a circular arc of indeterminate radius

Thread: A Manual of the Hand Lathe
05/02/2021 14:04:24

MichaelG - a PM for you

Nick

05/02/2021 13:59:42
Posted by Oldiron on 05/02/2021 11:10:38:

As a follow up to MichaelG' post. I have a short cut on the desktop to International tool Catalogue

I spend many an hour in there reading through books and catalogues no longer in print.

regards

Edited By Oldiron on 05/02/2021 11:11:50

There is a Reeves catalogue from 1954 in there!

05/02/2021 13:49:37

While Michael's post is both out of copyright and also a good read (so far) the same can't be said for everything on Archive.org

Many items are in the public domain in the US but not in the EU or UK due to differences in copyright laws, but in addition many things found there are definitely copyright worldwide.

The 'Model Engineering, a foundation course' by Wright, Tubal Cain's 'Model Engineer's Handbook' and many of the Workshop Practice books are available for free download.

While everything I have written, both text and software I have explicitly placed in the public domain (and in most cases being free are worth every penny of the price!) this is not the case for authors trying to make a living from their work.

I must admit to sneaking the odd peek online, but beyond that my morals, though embarrassingly elastic in so many other ways, draw the line at copyright theft.

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 05/02/2021 13:50:22

Thread: Soldering stainless steel pipe
05/02/2021 11:47:09

As there is lead solder on there already you basically have a choice of leaded solder, lead free soft solder or an adhesive.

On the web you will find people who say you must not mix leaded and unleaded solders and others who say that there is no problem. It seems to be the case that lead free solders can be more brittle than those with lead in.

My suggestion is to use an acid cored soft solder (I have used the Activ8 brand) which is intended for stainless and aluminium (But less successfully than with stainless in my personal experience)

But remember to clean off thoroughly afterwards!

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 05/02/2021 11:47:44

Thread: 5" Maid of Kent Build Log
04/02/2021 16:35:21

William -

The drawings include the KN Harris modifications for both inside and outside valve gears on additional sheets, however these are a total rework of the original design, and not just of the valve gear but the cylinder block and pipework as well to meet up with what KNH thought the design ought to have been like in the first place. This may not be necessarily correct.

Reeves will also sell you the additional drawings by Don Young for his revision of the valve gear, but again there have been criticisms of Don's valve gear designs, particularly for excessive lead.

You need to talk to people who have built a successful loco or who are sufficiently experienced to look at all the drawings and interpret them accurately - and I most certainly fit neither of these criteria!

If you look at the Model Engineering Clearing House website you will find a bigger concentration of locomotive experts than virtually anywhere else on the Internet.

Take care,

Nick

Thread: Adhesive for foam insulation
03/02/2021 20:44:15
Posted by Bazyle on 03/02/2021 17:44:56:

"foam insulation sheet" is a bit too vague. One such might be expanded polystyrene which is going to be rather different in its susceptibility compared to polyurothane or some other types.

Edited By Bazyle on 03/02/2021 17:45:47

It is expanded polystyrene - this stuff **LINK**

Thanks Nick

03/02/2021 14:39:46
Posted by Ady1 on 03/02/2021 14:32:26:

pinkgrip

Isn't that solvent based though and likely to attack the foam?

03/02/2021 14:29:05

I am setting about insulating the metal up and over door to my garage/workshop

I have some 25mm foam insulation sheet, not the foil covered type, and intend sticking it to the inside of the door.

What do you suggest will be the most successful as anything with a solvent is likely to attach the foam - perhaps high viscosity PVA like NoMoreNails or Silicon sealant/adhesive?

Thread: Loctite made in China?
03/02/2021 10:40:04
Posted by Andrew Tinsley on 03/02/2021 10:20:26:

Turns out that the Loctite 243 that I purchased from Ebay is a FAKE, I am trying to work out how one registers a complaint to Ebay, but cannot see how to do so. Anyone know how to do this?

Andrew,

Fake product or fake packaging?

In a different context (photographic chemicals) the genuine product was bought in industrial quantity and decanted into fake bottles - The savings presumably made it worth while, however in this case it worked just as it should.

 

Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 03/02/2021 10:40:28

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