Here is a list of all the postings Nick Clarke 3 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New-style cover finish|
As ME and MEW are usually at the back of the bottom shelf, hidden under the shelf above perhaps luminous paint might be more effective!
|Thread: Time to Say Goodbye|
Actually on a technical point - to make barcodes you have to draw a lot of lines, not just the one!
|Thread: Myford ML4 change gear modification|
Apologies - I was thinking of the Myford M-Type (a Drummond design) and not the ML series - but why might you ever need to remove a pin? - I thought each wheel had two holes in it one with the pin fixed in and another empty for the pin of another wheel to fit into when compounding.
A reminder that the original Drummond/Myford pins were tapered and only fit from one side.
I would be tempted to not do this with your new pins but use parallel pins held in place with loctite or similar.
|Thread: britannia boiler|
Assuming the 'Brit' is the LBSC design, the description does give details of the blower arrangement, even if it is a little unusual. The 1/4" threaded hole on the lower left of the backhead is where the blower valve is mounted, however there is no steam access to it from the boiler here - it is purely a mounting. Steam for the blower is taken from the turret/manifold and from there to the hollow stay which is shown on the drawings and described in the text.
Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 15/05/2022 09:49:38
|Thread: Myford ML4 cross slide|
NOS - New Old Stock - ubiquitous in classic car and bike worlds
|Thread: Drill bit storage|
I agree with the concept of drill boxes. When I set up my workshop I bought sets of drills. Those that have been used and broken, lost or ground too short have been replaced by better quality items - and for those that this have not happened to are unnecessary anyway.
I also keep a plastic pot (ex Chinese takeaway) with Chuck keys, centre drills, spot drills and similar under the table of the bench drill. Also 3.2mm drills (bought cheap at the last Bristol show) as preferred initial drill.
|Thread: Code of Conduct|
As a collector of the silly I am reminded of the early days of web filtering in schools and colleges where such offensive words as Sussex, Essex and similar were trapped because of their sexual content and also of the late Queen Mary who was apparently able to reduce people to to tears with a snapped exclamation of 'Jam Tarts!!'
It is not the word but the intention behind it, and that is far harder to trap.
|Thread: Drummond m|
I have a Drummond Roundbed where the saddle was cracked and it took several years before I found a replacement on eBay - and they made many, many more Roundbeds than double bed lathes.
Good luck hunting, but is a professional welded repair possible?
|Thread: A tyro desoldering question.|
It may be easier to cut through the pins on the switch and get it out of the way be fore attempting to desolder the pins and then fitting a replacement remote switch - less metal to heat up and less chance of damaging the board.
You will need to 'nibble' away at the pins with some fine nosed cutters - but the second side should be easier as you will be able to lift the switch slightly to get better access.
|Thread: Advice on Choosing A Mini Lathe|
I have a Drummond Roundbed Lathe that was a basket case when I bought it, but worked just enough to maintain my interest until bought a mini lathe.
The saddle was cracked on the Drummond but useable, however I have found a replacement - but it has taken 5 years!! The Drummond lacks many features of the mini lathe but as a piece of 'Old Iron' as you describe it it does have a nicer and more satisfying feel - but to turn metal I want features, not feel!
An older lathe may not have a high enough spindle speed to turn small items efficiently using carbide tooling - and my Drummond, without backgear, does not go slow enough to turn larger cast iron pieces either!
Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 07/05/2022 09:31:22
|Thread: Tools needed to build a 3 1/2in gauge Tich|
The link I posted to the online pdf of Tich articles contains all the information as published so would be an alternative to the book.
Hi Steven -
The Tich book is very useful as there is lots more information there than you will find in the drawings alone.
Alternately Tich Articles is a link to a pdf of the magazine articles which describe every process in building the loco.
I agree with the bit about going along to a model engineering club/society but please don't give away exact contact details. The two clubs I am a member of are in North and South Birmingham, if either of those are local to you.
|Thread: Recommend a small lathe(and mill)|
Without prejudice I hope because it was only the limited space in my workshop that prevented me from buying anything larger than a mini lathe but from remembering the experience of others:-
There are industrial machines available that, as has been said several times can be bargains if in good condition, but cans of worms if not.
What has not been mentioned is that industrial machine specific tooling, chucks, steadies, toolposts etc - all essential - do not seem to be available at such bargain prices if not included with the machine. A fellow club member was selling a lathe a few years ago and was advised to sell the lathe alone for what he was expecting to get with the tooling. The chucks and both steadies then went for 50% as much!
|Thread: Create a "transfer"|
The image was reversed I now recall
I used acrylic varnish because I read about it in a US publication put out by Metalflake a US paint company and that is what they suggested - and as I was working with automotive paint at the time it was readily available from stock ('transfer to mixing bay' as I recall)
We did not stock synthetic varnish and the cellulose varnish (blend-in clear) was too quick drying and soaked the paper through too quickly.
Two methods I used a very log time ago
a) Print out your design a densely as you can or use an image from a glossy magazine.-spray your object with acrylic varnish - when nearly dry squeegee your image onto the soft varnish and allow to dry - soak off the paper leaving the image behind.
b)Use sticky backed paper (Do you remember butterfly brand while sticky labels?) - the type you need to lick to make it stick - spray with acrylic varnish - paint on your design - spray with varnish again cut out and you have a waterslide transfer.
Of historic interest only nowadays!
UPDATE - Apparently gummed brown paper tape is still available and should work!
Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 28/04/2022 16:13:01
|Thread: Use of a wild card symbol in the QBasic Chain command|
I suspect that it is not going to be possible as the wildcard is a dos wildcard that will match up with a number of files - but QBasic interprets it by its individual filespec and it can't find a file whose name is SLOT?.BAS only SLOT1.BAS, SLOT2.BAS etc. as ? is a forbidden character in file names.
|Thread: Edward Thomas. 5" gauge. Hackworth Valve Gear.|
Before making a series of valves have you tried one of the simulators available?
I hesitated to suggest this as I got tied in knots and gratefully accepted help from MECH to come toa solution, but many people find them useful.
Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 26/04/2022 21:19:05
|Thread: Flexispeed main bearing replacement|
While not for one moment disputing your experience in the case of these particular lathes - at University 50 years ago we were told that a soft material running in a harder one will pick up particles of the hard one which become embedded turning the spindle into a lap, so the harder one can wear more.
|Thread: Lever operated tailstock attachment Myford|
Warco list this (presumably Chinese) in 2mt and 3mt but it may take up too much bed length?
Edited By Nick Clarke 3 on 20/04/2022 09:39:57
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