Here is a list of all the postings Oxymoron has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Home Workshop Dictionary - FREE E-BOOK|
Neil, many thanks. Looks like a useful resource, great you made it available in this way.
|Thread: Axminster/Sieg/Clarke lathe - all the same?|
"So out of the Axminster, Arc or Clarke, which is the better build quality/spec?"
Jason, I've been a customer of Axminster for 30 years and have no quibble with them. But for value for money on Sieg equipment you can't beat ARC in my opinion.
I have an SC4 lathe and SX2.7L mill both from Ketan at ARC. The price was good including the beginners kit. I'm lucky to live within easy travelling distance and the demo and advise before buying and ongoing service has been excellent. Don't think you would go wrong with either company but I'd go to ARC by preference for SIEG.
|Thread: Mill DRO - How many axis?|
David, I'm more than happy with the results, perhaps the only change I'd make would be mounting the reader heads. I used scraps of aluminium instead of buying some decent blocks. But I can always change those. I went with EMS as they had a four axis DRO available and price very similar to other suppliers.
The tips from Jason, Clive and others have changed the way I work and I now leave the quill locked off when milling and put the cut on with Z hand wheel. Still learning and picking up lots advice from this forum.
Following on from my question back in June, thought I'd update the post with what I ended up doing in case it helps anyone else.
The mill is a Sieg SX2.7L and I fitted a 4 axis DRO from EMS with scales on X,Y,Z and the Quill (U) to replace the Sieg digital scale which I found a little difficult to read. The Z axis can be displayed as 2 separate values or set to add them together as a single value. Not the cheapest solution but very happy with the result.
There are more photos in my DRO album.
|Thread: Breaking bandsaw blades|
Graham, annealing the blade on the saw is another good idea. Will do that with my new blade later.
Brian, the wire idea is so logical, when you do it and makes truing the guides so much easier. Once I'd removed my guides I could see the contact area on one side bearing showing where the misalignment was. Then replacing the guide with the wire in place was so easy. I'd just trusted the setup as the machine was delivered, stupid mistake.
So pleased I asked the question, some great tips gained.
Guys, thanks for all the advice.
Brian, stretching wire around wheels is genius. My rear guide was well out of alignment, probably 4 or 5mm. I had not realised the shafts holding my guide bearings are eccentric but this adjustment was nothing like enough on the rear. But I was able to move the guide holder over as it has a vertical slot to allow vertical adjustment and its considerably larger than the bolts holding it.
Why is wire better than a blade for alignment? The blade gets turned through roughly 45degrees from the wheels to make it run vertical. This makes it hard to check alignment. Using wire it sits against the flange on the wheels and you can easily line up the bearings. Great trick.
I'll see how long this new blade lasts but will definitely be looking to source new ones from suppliers suggested.
Thanks again everyone
Edited By Oxymoron on 03/12/2019 14:49:30
Edited By Oxymoron on 03/12/2019 14:50:40
Thank you to everyone, some things to check on my saw and some ideas on different suppliers.
Thanks Clogs, will check out TSaw.
Just what I needed, thanks T.B.
Mike, annealing is an interesting idea. Might give that a try. Cheers
Douglas, thanks for the silver soldering tip. I'll fish the blade back out of the bin! I'll try silver soldering it as you suggest.
Clive, some things for me to check on the tracking. I'll take a good look at that tomorrow. I have a vertical wood cutting band saw. 88 1/2" blade and I've never had any problems with that but the wheels are bigger diameter and the blade is not being tested through the guides to turn the blade vertically.
I've got a couple of spare blades but if anyone could recommend a different supplier that would be great for my next purchase.
Thanks guys, interesting re leaving blade tensioned, so that's probably not what I'm doing wrong.
I seem to be breaking bandsaw blades too frequently and wondering why.
I've got an Axminster engineering series band saw. Using axcalber blades. 1440mm x 1/2" 10TPI. Blades seem to break along the welded join long before the blade becomes blunt. Generally the saw starts to 'jump' when the join passes over the cut metal and if I look at the join it shows a crack starting to form. Shortly after it will break. Its hard to guess how long I've used a blade, maybe an hour total time.
I wonder if I'm doing something wrong. I tend not to release the tension when its not being used, is that bad practice? Should I be using a different manufacturer? any ideas please?
This is the blade that broke this afternoon.
|Thread: MIDLANDS MODEL ENGINEERING EXHIBITION|
Interesting comments. I went on Friday, arrived 10:10 with pre paid ticket. Slight queue but got in quickly. For the record I am retired and 59. Maybe I reduced the average age slightly.
It was my first show for many years. I once attended Donnington park, many years ago. For me I wasn't bothered about buying much as I've used the net for this although I bought some Bakers fluid and a couple of spotting drills. Highlight for me was looking at the models on show. Some inspirational work on display. The outdoor display of a sawmill cutting timber was great.
I am building a 1" Minnie and was dissapointed not to find much in this scale. Also I've been contemplating joining a club. I'm based near Loughborough so Melton and Nottingham clubs are close to me. Unfortunately both these stands were unmanned although I returned several times. Would have liked to talk to them but I appreciate it is difficult to man a stand with volunteers continually for 4 days. I only stayed 2 hours.
As for the future, I would like to see more lectures and demonstrations. Otherwise I'm not seeing much to entice me every year.
|Thread: Caravan Insurance|
Peter, so pleased Caravan guard were able to help you. Good to know a recommendation works out for someone.
As a little history, when my wife and I bought our first Motorhome in 2011 I naively thought that because I had been a named driver on my wife's car policy for many years I would be able to transfer this to the motor home. Direct line had always advertised this but had not realised it only applied to them and they would not insure our van.
I also rang Camping and caravan club insurance who were not interested, in there view I had to start from scratch with no, no claims bonus. Ditto Caravan club insurance. Incidently in 2011 both clubs used the same insurance people. I rang both club numbers in succession and spoke to the same person! Caravan guard were the only company I found who were willing to give me a discount equivalent to the years I had as a named driver on my wife policy. It was nice to find a company with a little flexibility.
Peter, I insure a motorhome with Caravan Guard. Never made a claim through them but always been impressed with the way the agent is always willing to talk through the options at each renewal, include Europe or not, milage per year, include the wife etc to get the cheapest quote. They may be able to help with your scenario if you give them a ring.
I've no connection at all with them other than a customer.
|Thread: Another scam|
Roy, mix it with grass cuttings in compost heap. At least that's what I do with shredding. Stops the grass cutting going to slimy mess and ultra secure when paper is composted.
|Thread: Mill DRO - How many axis?|
Thank you everyone, some great advice and also a few ideas on new ways of working which I will definitely try.
To conclude, I've ordered a 3 scale DRO kit planning to put the Z on the pillar of the mill but I've upgraded the readout to have 4 ports so if I later decide to put a read head on the Quill as Roy has shown in the photo I've got the option to do so. Taking the advise of many of you to future proof.
Thanks again everyone.
Thanks for clarification Jason
Wow, thank you all for suggestions and quick responses. Consensus would seem X & Y are definite need to have and Z is the 'luxury' item.
Jason, are you saying you don't use the fine feed on X3, just put cut depth on by moving head up and down the column? Interesting.
I'll do a little more price comparison and then decide. Thanks again.
Decided to fit a DRO to my Mill but would like advice on Z axis please.
I have got a Sieg SX2.7L Mill. Same mill as Jason has used for the Milling for beginners series but with a slightly larger table (hence L). I was all set to buy a 3 Axis kit from ems-i with magnetic scales when I realised my Z axis moves in 2 ways. Course adjustment by hand wheel moving head up and down the column and also a fine feed on the quill. The fine feed has a small electronic vernier type scale and readout already as standard. This is battery powered which I have to remember to switch off and is not easy to read without getting head inline with small screen.
I’m assuming the most used axis on DRO will be the X and Y hence are definates. So I think I have the following options.
1. DRO only X & Y axis.
2. DRO X, Y and replace current fine feed readout on Quill with new scale and use this as Z axis.
3. X, Y and fit Z to vertical column and keep using fine feed scale already fitted.
4. X, Y and fit new scale to both Z column and fine feed and use readout that allows addition of both Z scales into one Z readout.
The price increases with my option numbers. So I think option 2 is favourite but I’d appreciate opinions if I’d be making a mistake not putting scale on the Z column.
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