Here is a list of all the postings Jon Lawes has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Porsche 951|
There are more figures to consider here, such as gearing, co-efficient of drag, weight, and distance you had available. Air density would affect both aerodynamics and efficiency of intercooling and the temperature of the air charge. Wind direction, gradient, tyre pressures, ground clearance, underfloor aerodynamics, following another vehicle and making use of its slipstream. An autobahn is longer than Elvington. Your skyline had (assuming it was the GTR and not a GTS or similar) an additional gearbox, propshaft and drive shafts to spin, presumably fatter rubber, so lots of additional parasitic drag as you are obviously aware. You are obviously aware of these factors as you are a petrolhead from your previously owned cars.
There are certainly enough variables that I wouldn't be decrying the integrity of another forum member.
Edited By Jon Lawes on 13/05/2021 05:25:34
|Thread: me august 1961|
I thought you were working on a Springbok? You need to find a copy of the Martin Evans book that covers the Rob Roy and William locomotives; its got almost everything in there.
|Thread: Recommended Beginners Measuring Tool Set|
Then a bottle of Dykem blue is what you need to paint the surfaces with before marking, as for the compass I think you are after spring dividers.
The auto punch are usually referred to as an Automatic Centre Punch, I use a Starrett 18A and think its one of the best I've ever used (I've owned a few, and used a few during my apprenticeship). It will cost about £20 to £25. Eclipse came a close second for me.
I don't have a brand I can recommend for the Engineers Square set as mine all came off the Ark.
Again, this is all just personal opinion, I've no connection to any of these brands.
Ian Replied while I was typing, but it sounds like we broadly agree!
Although this is a model engineering forum there are many branches of that, and many different opinions on what are worthwhile and useful tools. It also depends on what you intend to machine yourself. Personally I am a 41 year old machinist who is relatively new to the hobby (less than ten years), I make small steam engines and fittings mainly so my opinions will be based around that. Others will have different opinions based on when they started, what they make, and who taught them (among other things!).
Personally I think you need a digital caliper, a vernier caliper is cheaper but if you don't do it a lot a vernier scale is slower to read and easier to make mistakes on. Many people will disagree with me but to be honest the vernier scale is really dying out with many newer model engineers due to the availability of cheap digital equipment which is even available at the likes of Aldi (for a given quality). I would buy a Machine DRO or similar entry level digital caliper. The other advantage of digital is that you can switch between metric and imperial at a moments notice. Also by zeroing the caliper at the size you wish to achieve you can measure what you have machined so far, take the figure and divide by two, and that's the exact amount you need to take off.
For more precise measurement you would need a micrometer. The cost jumps significantly when you go digital. I don't use it much (for most of my machining the digital caliper is fine for the accuracy I need to work to) so you could if on a budget stick with a vernier scale, and take on the chin that it is going to be slower to use for a novice. It may be a very unpopular opinion, but for the things I make I barely use my digital mic. The digital caliper goes down to half a thou, that's probably all I need.
A Square (as shown in that kit) is virtually essential (again, just my opinion).
A good scriber.
A bottle of engineers marking out fluid. Some people use a sharpie, I use both depending on what I'm working on.
Automatic Centre punch. I like Starrett, the quality is excellent, eclipse are also good.
A six inch rule is handy, but you will probably find yourself grabbing the digital caliper when you need to measure something.
Thats the first that come to mind, but if you are talking about measuring tools only as per your question, then the digital caliper I would say should be the first thing you spend your pennies on. I've mainly described marking out tools.
I used to think the Zeus book was handy but to be honest with a mobile phone in your pocket you are two or three clicks away from websites which tell you the exact stud spacing for a given PCD (for example) or whatever your question is. I find that quicker than flicking through the Zeus book. Your mileage may vary depending on your personal preferences of course.
I've attempted to answer what is a very broad question, so I apologise if I have missed the mark. I'm interested in what opinions follow my reply, because it will almost certainly end with me buying more tools!
Best of luck
|Thread: Making a knurled thumb wheel|
I look forward to more videos. We all make errors while we work, which most of the time we get away with (and on nasty occasions don't), I guess we need to be very squeaky clean when instructing to others.
Keep it up, when I'm not in the workshop myself the next best thing is learning from videos like these.
|Thread: down scaling|
For straight lines I guess multiply by 0.7, but obviously you wouldn't want to scale anything boiler related like that.
That's just a stab in the dark mind...
|Thread: Watchmakers / Jewellers Drill|
Is it a pin chuck?
|Thread: Fitting a Drill Chuck Confusion|
Yes its a friction fit. For longevity keep it clean of swarf, but yes a tap with a rubber mallet can help. You don't need to swing it like thor, just a tap.
I've made a small hammer for tapping and aligning things (brass headed) which I keep hung up near the lathe; I've made the handle length right for popping down the centre of the tailstock for tapping the taper back out.
|Thread: Magnetic swarf|
That sounds very much like a non-problem.
|Thread: Stand for milling machine|
Rigid, Level, easy to brush down, and with the ability to put extra lighting in would help! Also if you are planning to run coolant that is worth thinking about now, I don't personally.
I know it seems basic but I have spoken to someone who has made this mistake so it's worth mentioning; the total width required is not just the width of the bed, but the width of the bed at the extremes of its travel! It's worth noting if you are planning to bolt it to the floor in a corner.
Incorporating some storage would also be really helpful. Again, probably basic stuff you have already considered.
|Thread: Inroducing lathes article in 303|
Excuse my ignorance, are there any colour combinations that work for all colour deficiencies? By making a chart better for one group do we alienate another?
Question asked purely as I don't know the answer, not intentionally rude!
|Thread: Does size matter|
It looks like he is skimming a commutator or slip ring without removing it!
|Thread: Does anyone know what this is for?|
It does have a hint of industrial sewing machine about it. Maybe stitching rope into sails is it.
Does anyone else suspect the top of the frame is hinged with the lower half? I wondered about making chain links or similar bearing in mind the small roller looking like its intended to guide rod or rope on this side (ignoring the two larger rollers for a second). On the top it looks like the machined surface comes to rest against the other surface.
|Thread: Model differential|
Lovely work, superb.
|Thread: crankcase construction|
I attended a lecture at Bristol University by one of the lead designers from TVR. He was talking about the TVR Speed 12, and mentioned that the original homologation rules called for a very low number of cars needing to be produced, so they just fabricated the blocks from welded plate. Then the homologation rules were finalised for the class they were racing in and the numbers were much higher, so rather than redo the design they just built these engines on a production line, out of welded plate...
For those interested, Some other interesting gems came out of that lecture, such as the Speed 12 radiator being part of the space frame (so you basically had to repair it or unweld it...), that they tried running the exhausts down the prop tunnel but realised the diff cooler was going to need to be bigger than the radiator... it was originally going to be a Speed 10 but at the time only Dodge made a 10 cylinder engine and as rivals they were told to poke off when they asked to use their ignition system so TVR made it a 12 cylinder engine instead...
|Thread: Parting off 25mm copper|
There are times when you need to be brave and part off, and times when you pick the quicker and less stressful option and grab the hacksaw! For me personally this would be one of those times. I've made a small bit of wood that fits snugly over the bed under the chuck to protect it for exactly these times.
|Thread: RR Merlin Scale Models|
Maybe they were put off by the previous comment and didn't want to deviate this thread off track, or decided not to engage as sometimes it just isn't worth it when the person asking has been disagreeable to converse with.
|Thread: Rex Tingley Valveless design|
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