Here is a list of all the postings Stuart Smith 5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Arc's Website - Is it Just Me?|
I’ve just checked and I can login ok and see my previous orders etc
|Thread: RCD socket|
Re Phil Whitley’s comment about removing the cut out fuse.
This is not something that individuals should do. It belongs to the local electrical network operator and should only be removed by someone authorised by them, following appropriate training and knowledge and using the correct PPE.
|Thread: Alloy joining|
‘Mr Factotum’ on youtube has been doing a series of videos of his Metre Maid loco build.
|Thread: Yuriy's Toys DIY DRO|
The boards I used do have 5 connections. The one labelled ID is not used. Although the scales use a micron usb connector the pins are not used as the usb spec.
VCC : power supply to scales (3 volts for mine)
D- : Clock signal from micro to scales
D+ : Data signal from scales to micro
Gnd : Ground connection to micro / power supply
If you want to buy a complete board, the touch dro website has them:
But at $86 + $30 postage they cost too much for me!
I think I mine cost me less than £25. Not quite as professional looking but it works ok.
These are the breakout boards I used:
this is the Bluetooth module:
and this is the Arduino nano:
I have built one recently for my Warco milling machine.
I used these from ARC :
I made the circuit on veroboard using an Arduino nano , an HC05 Bluetooth module and 3 micro usb breakout boards.
|Thread: Serious Readers, serious prices|
I have found the craft light company to be good.
Serious Readers are very expensive as others have said. I must admit, I don’t understand why people buy them.
|Thread: Wiring LED battens|
As you can see, there is a permanent live and a switched live which may be black with a red sleeve or red tape. ( assuming old wiring colours)
It could be that this is how your wiring is:
|Thread: Parkside Electric Spraygun|
Have you tried here?
|Thread: ARC Digital scales converted to mains power.|
I think it may be worth waiting to check with ARC before using a USB phone charger.
I have the ones from ARC with a separate display unit **LINK**
I have just made a circuit with an Arduino to use these with a tablet computer running the Touchdro app so I had to check the volts and pin outs on the micro usb connector. There are 4 wires - ground, 3 volts , clock and data.
The one you have may be different but if the same, you would need a 3volt supply.
|Thread: Amadeal Lathe failed - customer service appalling!|
I have had a different experience with Amadeal.
From the original post, it is obvious that Adam Hebbard is not happy with Amadeal, but this is his first post on this forum. As far as I can see, there are two reasons to post on here with the sort of title he has used - one is to let others know of his experience, the other is to damage the reputation of the company.
There have been other posts where people have had issues with other companies supplying lathes and accessories, including the well known ones who advertise on this site.
If you look at the warranties for other companies, they either have 'back to base' where you have to pay for returns or parts only after 6 months etc, so the fact that Amadeal have offered to pick the lathe up at their expense actually seems better. Obviously it wasn't picked up when arranged, but I did not see that they had refused to rearrange this, just that they wouldn't do this on a Saturday because of the extra expense. I don't think this is unusual, even for big companies.
I bought a mini lathe from Amadeal about 2 years ago. I decided to buy from them because it seemed to have the best spec at the best price compared to other companies. I guess that the OP did the same.
I realised that it was a small company and that there may be a trade off between price and customer service if I had any issues.
The lathe was delivered quickly by courier on the day specified. A few days later the plastic carriage handwheel broke. I rang Amadeal about 4pm, they said they would send a replacement which came the next day, which I thought was excellent customer service.
Since then I have bought a few small items from them which all arrived next day. I have never had any problems contacting them.
I did have an issue with a lathe collet chuck I bought. The runout was more than I expected and when I looked at it, the bore had not been machined correctly. I rang Amadeal and got through straight away. I was asked to send them an email with a photo of the problem. They emailed back saying they would send me another together with a prepaid envelope to return the faulty one. This arrived next day, but had the same problem. I rang them again (got through again straight away) and said I wanted to return them both for a refund. They agreed to this and said they would arrange for their courier to pick them up. I offered to post them back instead and they agreed to refund the cost of the item plus postage costs. I had paid via paypal, so they refunded to my paypal account the day they received the items back.
My point is that it is easy for one persons experience (which does not meet their expectations) can possibly give a distorted view of a company. Happy customers do not tend to volunteer there experiences in the same way..
I have no connection to Amadeal, other than as a customer.
|Thread: Slideway locking screw bottoms out|
I have a WM16 and it has a brass plunger which the locking screw presses on.
I have just had a look at mine and I can see it when I remove the locking arm. It’s about 10mm in from the end.
Perhaps yours is missing this part.
|Thread: Lathe RPM meter not working|
Did you manage to sort out the problem?
I have taken the control box off my cj18 lathe to change the gears and bearings. The circuit is simpler than the one in an earlier post and is labelled with the 5v, GND and signal connections. There is no resistor in the 5v feed to the speed sensor or display. Let me know if you still need help, I can draw up the circuit diagram.
Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 07/02/2020 22:42:06
On the Amadeal website, there is a photo of the display board they sell as a replacement for the mini lathe.
The connections are marked on the board in the photo as 5v, GRD, PL and PE.
If this is the same board as yours this may help.
Correction to my previous post, typo crept in . Should be :
With the lathe on but not rotating, the output is just under 5 volts when one of the vanes is between the sensor and about 0.13 volts when a space is between the sensor.
Just an extra point to my previous post, with the lathe on but not rotating, the output is just under 5 volts when one of the vanes is between the sensor and about 1.3 volts when a space is between the sensor.
I have the same lathe as you. I have taken a photo of the opto sensor board and measured the voltages.
As you can see, the cables are marked with a '+', a dot and a long dash (left to right) . I have confirmed that they are + 5 volts, ground, and output (left to right again).
Output is about 5 volts when power is on but lathe is not turning. ( the output is biased to 5 volts by a 10 k resistor on this board.) It is pulled down by the sensor when detecting pulses. With the lathe turning, I measured the dc voltage using my multimeter and it was about 2 volts and dropped as the speed was increased. This would be a simple check if you don’t have access to an oscilloscope.
There are 2 resistors on this board. The top one ( nearest the sensor) is 10 k and is connected between + 5 volts and the output to bias the output high ( ie to 5 volts). The bottom one is 300 ohms and is the current limiting resistor in the feed from the 5 volt supply to the LED of the sensor.
I don't know if this is any help, but at least you will know what to expect at this board.
I don't think that the diagram posted by Steve earlier can be the power supply circuit for this type of speed sensor as this would not provide enough current for the LED with a 10k resistor in circuit.
I am going to be dismantling my lathe in the next few days to change the gears and bearings, so if you don't resolve the problem by then I can measure the volts and take some photos on the circuit boards on mine.
|Thread: Product Descriptions (Up to scratch?)|
Some info on the Warco website for the chucks they sell:
|Thread: fitting new heating thermostat|
As emcee says, red should be live, yellow with red sleeve switched live to boiler and blue would be neutral on an old style thermostat.
So red to A, yellow with red sleeve to B and terminate the unused blue in an insulate terminal block.
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