Here is a list of all the postings Stuart Smith 5 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Slideway locking screw bottoms out|
I have a WM16 and it has a brass plunger which the locking screw presses on.
I have just had a look at mine and I can see it when I remove the locking arm. It’s about 10mm in from the end.
Perhaps yours is missing this part.
|Thread: Lathe RPM meter not working|
Did you manage to sort out the problem?
I have taken the control box off my cj18 lathe to change the gears and bearings. The circuit is simpler than the one in an earlier post and is labelled with the 5v, GND and signal connections. There is no resistor in the 5v feed to the speed sensor or display. Let me know if you still need help, I can draw up the circuit diagram.
Edited By Stuart Smith 5 on 07/02/2020 22:42:06
On the Amadeal website, there is a photo of the display board they sell as a replacement for the mini lathe.
The connections are marked on the board in the photo as 5v, GRD, PL and PE.
If this is the same board as yours this may help.
Correction to my previous post, typo crept in . Should be :
With the lathe on but not rotating, the output is just under 5 volts when one of the vanes is between the sensor and about 0.13 volts when a space is between the sensor.
Just an extra point to my previous post, with the lathe on but not rotating, the output is just under 5 volts when one of the vanes is between the sensor and about 1.3 volts when a space is between the sensor.
I have the same lathe as you. I have taken a photo of the opto sensor board and measured the voltages.
As you can see, the cables are marked with a '+', a dot and a long dash (left to right) . I have confirmed that they are + 5 volts, ground, and output (left to right again).
Output is about 5 volts when power is on but lathe is not turning. ( the output is biased to 5 volts by a 10 k resistor on this board.) It is pulled down by the sensor when detecting pulses. With the lathe turning, I measured the dc voltage using my multimeter and it was about 2 volts and dropped as the speed was increased. This would be a simple check if you don’t have access to an oscilloscope.
There are 2 resistors on this board. The top one ( nearest the sensor) is 10 k and is connected between + 5 volts and the output to bias the output high ( ie to 5 volts). The bottom one is 300 ohms and is the current limiting resistor in the feed from the 5 volt supply to the LED of the sensor.
I don't know if this is any help, but at least you will know what to expect at this board.
I don't think that the diagram posted by Steve earlier can be the power supply circuit for this type of speed sensor as this would not provide enough current for the LED with a 10k resistor in circuit.
I am going to be dismantling my lathe in the next few days to change the gears and bearings, so if you don't resolve the problem by then I can measure the volts and take some photos on the circuit boards on mine.
|Thread: Product Descriptions (Up to scratch?)|
Some info on the Warco website for the chucks they sell:
|Thread: fitting new heating thermostat|
As emcee says, red should be live, yellow with red sleeve switched live to boiler and blue would be neutral on an old style thermostat.
So red to A, yellow with red sleeve to B and terminate the unused blue in an insulate terminal block.
|Thread: Axminster/Sieg/Clarke lathe - all the same?|
I had exactly the same questions about 2 years ago before I bought my lathe.
I eventually decided on a CJ18a lathe from Amadeal. It has a 100mm spindle and chuck and a standard 500w motor. Delivery was included in the price and it came in its original packaging strapped to a pallet within a couple of days.
I see that Amadeal do a brushless motor version now.
I am happy with it - though it lacks torque at low speeds I think it is good for the price.
The plastic carriage hand wheel broke after a few days (I think it was probably damaged in transit). I rang Amadeal about 4pm , they sent me a replacement which arrived next day.
I have bought a few small items from them since and had excellent service (next day delivery).
May be worth considering.
|Thread: Heatshrink tubing|
CPC have a range of heatshrink tubing . I see there is a 12mm available in a 1.2m length.
|Thread: Another newbie question (mini lathe 4 jaw chuck mounting)|
I don't know if this is the norm, but mine came with spring washers.
Photo of the ones that came with the 4 jaw:
3 jaw chuck fixing:
As Ron says, you just need 4 studs, washers and nuts.
It's a pity that your chuck didn't come with these - the one I bought with my lathe from Amadeal came with studs.
|Thread: Non tilting; tilting head.....tilt|
I think it will have jammed, but shouldn't have caused any damage. I don't think you need to rotate the head to remove it, but you will need to support the weight before removing the nuts/bolts. Probably just need to make some wooden vee blocks as you said, lower it onto them and when the weight is taken on them, it will probably be free then. You will then be able to remove the nuts/bolt and wing the table forward with the head supported on the blocks.
Looking at the manual posted by Jason, p17 describes the function of the pin you have removed.
This is the link I referred to in my previous post. It's a bit over the top - I just supported the head on some wood on the table but gives you the general idea.
The head fixing to the column looks similar to my warco wm16, but this has just a central nut retaining nut and one nut to allow the head to tilt, where yours seems to have 3 nuts around the central one.
When I bought mine (secondhand) I had to remove the head (and table) to be able to move it. If you need to remove the head you can lower it onto a wooden support on the table to take the weight and then remove the nuts and wind the head forward using the table.
I found a video on you tube showing this. I will try to find it and post a link.
|Thread: Aldi bandsaw|
It is advertised as a portable bandsaw and doesn't need to be used on a stand. In this respect it is similar to a portable drill. I have tried it like this holding a small piece of steel in my normal bench vice. The only problem was that it was difficult to control when starting the cut. After that, it was similar to using a (heavy) hacksaw. I think if I had made a start with a normal hacksaw I wouldn't have had a problem.
I have just bought one of these as well.
Cuts ok and the vice holds well on mine.
The on/off trigger does not lock, so that is why the mod on the YouTube video to keep it pressed. Obviously needs an external switch ion line if doing this as per videos.
The blade seems ok with none of the problems some others have had.
The only problem is the vice is not suitable for holding small parts.
|Thread: large diameter copper tube|
Also m-machine list it but says poa.
Blackgates show 8 1/4 " 10g in their catalogue.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.