Here is a list of all the postings Mark Davison 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How do I remove the motor from a Harrison vertical mill?|
Finally managed to get the motor out. I was going about it the right way but had got the foot pedal lever hook behind something which was jamming it. Its enormous! 100L frame with 28mm shaft, 6 pole, physically huge (and heavy) for a 2hp motor.
I've got a couple of the generic chinese VFDs that look identical, but mine don't step up the voltage. I'll see if I can get the windings on this one modified, if it isn't successful I'll modify the mounting plate to take my spare dual voltage 2hp 4 pole motor and buy a 24mm to 28mm shaft adapter.
That's why I need to dig out the star point in the winding and bring it to the junction box. Most modern 3 phase motors are dual voltage, switching between star and delta configuration. You can convert older motors if you can find the star point without destroying the winding.
It is NOT the same as the horizontal mill.
The motor is hinged from a great steel plate the bolts to the RH side of the cabinet. There is a foot pedal at the back that raises the motor on the hinge via a linkage. Im assuming I pull the entire plate and hinge mechanism out of the side with the motor still attached, but cant work out how to undo the linkage.
Anyone tackled this job before?
I need to dig out the star point as it isn't a dual voltage motor and I want to run it from a VFD.
|Thread: Bantam - warped compound gib|
I've almost managed to straighten it (G clamp). It was out by 0.015" in the centre and was bowed in both axis and even has a slight twist. It was more like 7.5" in length, not 6". Still some tweeking and no doubt some lapping/sanding, but getting there.
A new one was best part of £100 plus p&p and plus vat. I should be grateful it's still an option I guess.
Edited By Mark Davison 1 on 12/11/2019 18:41:38
Convex (touches the slide in the middle and the stationary bit only at the ends). It is anything but thin and flexible. The only way the screws will straighten it is to wind in the adjusters at either end, which will place pressure on the middle until it bends, causing it to go very tight in the process. In fact it is so tight in the middle even without adjusting the screws that i cant reassemble it.
I think it is steel, but could be wrong.
It has 3 square sides and one angled, as opposed to two sets of parallel faces. I suspect it has bowed in 2 axis, not just the one. I have a surface plate but have yet placed on it to measure it. May do that this evening.
The mounting holes are out of alignment now (although not so much that the screws wont go in), bending it back would put them back in the right position.
I wasnt completely happy with the feel of the compound slide on my colchester bantam, so disassembled it for cleaning and adjusting. It is in excellent condition with one exception, the gib is slightly warped. I assume this happened during manufacturing as a result of machining the angle with residual stress in the material causing it to distort. Surprised it has been working as well as it has, although it wasnt evident until I loosened the bolts.
What are my chances of straightening it? Haven't yet measured it but suspect .005", possibly as much as 0.010" over 6". The main bit that concerns me is that it has 4 large holes in it to bolt it to the compound with cap screws so worried it wont bend evenly.
|Thread: INT30 sensitive drilling attachment|
Sorry, you may have done, I jumped straight into the drawing!
I'm going to go the 'Schaublin route' as you've suggested. Only drawback will be the time it takes to mount/unmount the nose plate and I think i can live with that. I'm just trying to decide if i buy a cheap ER20 straight shank collet chuck ( £13 +VAT from cutwel) and thread the rest of the shaft into that, or turn the whole thing from 1" EN8 bar that I already have.
I've finally got my head round what you meant when you said mount directly to the spindle nose. I still haven't got the mill (long story involving haulage company) so hadn't realised there are 4 threaded holes in the nose. The bit I still cant picture, even after study the drawing you sent (thankyou) is which way up the adapter mounts to the nose. I'd have assumed the ground face mates with the nose but the assembly drawing suggests it goes the other way, with he ground face down?
Thanks for the suggestions. I was hoping to use at least some of the depth of the INT30 taper so as not to loose too much of the available height. Once I collect it next week I'll see how important that is. I have a lathe and a MT3 boring head so will need to buy an INT30 one anyway.
I've just bought a Harrison vertical mill with INT30 spindle (although not yet collected it).
I bought this despite being reluctant to buy a mill without a quill, primarily as I don't have the height for a Bridgeport type machine. I want to be able to do some drilling on the machine and stumbled across this on **LINK**
I'm looking to make something like this but using a straight shank ER collect chuck inserted directly into an INT30 to MT3 adapter (such as the one below - 87mm long extension) that has had the morse taper bored out to a parallel 25mm hole. What are my chances of boring out this supposedly hardened INT30 adapter with carbide tooling and getting a satisfactory surface finish? Or should I sleeve after boring, say with brass, and then bore that?
|Thread: Repair required for Milling Knee|
I have two of these, the same English made bench version you have pictured and a floor standing import. The import had a cracked main casting when I bought it (pics in gallery). Personally I'd glue, drill and tap. It you still want to braze it at a later date you could. If the braze goes wrong now the knee will be scrap.
|Thread: Bantam cross slide end float|
Sorted, almost. I think the splines were just so tight it made fine adjustment almost impossible. I tried it on the press and manage to get rid of the float. Press the shaft in and out a couple of times and then tried it in situ and got close enough for now (it is ever so slightly too close now).
I've got noticeable end float in the handwheel/spindle (for the cross slide) which causing havoc if I attempt to carry out small milling jobs on the lathe. It is end float as I can see the gap between the dial and the flange open and close. I've not measured it, but lets call it 10 thou. There is also some backlash in the screw, but it is the end float that I was trying to sort out.
I eventually managed to remove the handwheel but it is a very very tight fit on the splines and seems to reach a hard stop where it was.
Does anyone know how I adjust the end float, or can anyone else confirm that the fit of my handwheel to the splined shaft is normal?
|Thread: Colchester Bantam 1600 3 phase supply|
Removed duplicate post
Edited By Mark Davison 1 on 24/07/2019 23:58:51
I changed my bantam from single phase 1hp to 3 phase 2hp 4 pole (I got the motor secondhand at a not to be turned down price). The lathe now runs much smooth than with the single phase. I put a larger pulley on the motor, gearing it up approx 20%. I had to make a new motor plate and drill and tap an extra hole in the back of the bed to get the motor in the right place. All I can say is I wish I'd done it sooner.
|Thread: Does a 1600rpm bantam have a single v belt?|
I'm primarily interested in getting access to speeds above 800rpm which is the max with the current single phase motor. The low speed is fine. At the moment I've order exactly the same size pulley, but may also order a slightly larger one as (I think ) you're suggesting
Not sure, don't recall seeing a date on the data plate. They (i bought two) are 90 frame as opposed to imperial, with moulded plastic fans and fan shrouds. Dual voltage as standard. Saw it run on a 400v rotary converter before I bought it and all seemed well. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Worst case I have to cough up for a new one, which is what i had previously intended to do anyway.
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