Here is a list of all the postings Andrew Read 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: John Wildings great wheel skeleton clock|
thought I would email to let you know I have now joined the BHI and get the journal every month, also my large wheel skeleton clock is still running so the issue was the pinion polishing as you advised
I’m half way through the strut clock and so far so good
hope your keeping well
Regards Andy Read
I have the plans and most of the materials for the Strutt Elliptical clock, not sure how difficult a build it will be but we will see, there are fusee's involved which I have never made although have always wanted to make 1
Was surprised that the pinion polishing was not mentioned in the John Wilding book on the large wheel Skeleton clock or that I haven't read about this before but will know next time to check
What clock projects have you worked on?
Neil, Marcus, Martin, thought I would let you know I’ve looked at the points you made and it looks like I needed to polish the pinions as once I looked at them they were really quite rough, I’ve now polished them and the clock is running again and running well. Thought I would just drop you a line thanking you for your help
Ok thanks for the suggestion Martin, will check and have a cuppa tea before assuming anything
Hi Marcus, really appreciate your response and to answer the points you raise, yes all pivots have been burnished and when the clock runs the recoil at the escapement is good so I think the friction is minimal at the pivots, I have also cut the tiny chamfer at the pivot holes in the plates. When I fit just the centre wheel and 3rd wheel it spins well under power from my finger and runs down and stops eventually however last night I put some resistance on the third wheel as I also moved the centre wheel and managed to get the pinion to but I think on 1 of the 3rd wheel teeth, if this is repeated and the wheels are just spun they run freely, the depthing as I said looks good so I'm at a bit of a loss with this problem, I will try to find if more butting is occurring when I can get back into the workshop
Thanks Neil, Marcus, will have another look and see what I can find. I did make the JW depthing tool. Is it ok to treat the pinion in the same way as the wheel you mention above with burnisher in case it’s more than 1 tooth causing the issue? The disappointing thing is the depthing of the pinion and wheel looked good in the depthing tool
Hi, I’m completing my 1st clock John Wildings great wheel skeleton clock, it’s built and I have had it running for periods up to a week before it stops, I’ve re cut wheels that I thought were the issue and I think I’ve now narrowed the problem to the meshing of the centre wheel and 3rd wheel pinion which I just can’t seem to get right, if I spin the 3rd wheel and centre wheel in the frames they run well with no resistance but once the complete clock is assembled and wound 2 or 3 turns when it stops it’s always where a pinion leaf is just entering the centre wheel. Can anyone advise on what I may have missed or some way of checking the meshing, the wheel is cut 0.6 module and I brought the pinions from Ian T Cobb.
|Thread: John wildings great wheel skeleton clock|
Thanks for the help and will look at the suggestions you have made
I'm in the process of completing the great wheel skeleton clock by John Wilding, the clock runs for 48 hours plus but then stops, I've looked at the pivots and gear meshing and all looks good. I'm going to make a new escapement in the hope that that may be the issue
Would appreciate any thoughts please
|Thread: Myford diving head|
Thanks for all the helpful advice will go away and check and hopefully find the issue or maybe just do a single cut around the wheels
Ok thanks for the advise Clive will go back and check again
I have brought a second hand myford dividing head to cut clock wheels, reading the instructions it advises to to set the cut depth on the 1st sweep around the wheel and then go full depth on the 2nd sweep.
The problem is on the second sweep the cut is not exactly where the 1st cut is on the wheel leaving a tiny line on the cut wheel teeth
The dividing head is adjusted for no play so the only thing I can come up with is the worm wheel and worm are worn
Has anyone got any ideas?
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.